Neolamprologus multifasciatus is a unique freshwater fish and is one of the smallest species of cichlid that can be kept in an aquarium. What makes these fish incredibly unique is their behavior. Multis are a shell dweller cichlid species normally found in Lake Tanganyika, which is a lake located in Africa. Their behaviors and hardy personalities make them fantastic for fishkeepers looking to keep something a little different. This article will discuss the process of setting up an aquarium for multifasciatus cichlids. I’ll provide a list of equipment and supplies they will likely need, and discuss more about these incredible fish.
List of Supplies & Equipment
Multis are not an incredibly challenging fish to keep. These fish are fairly hardy and do not require elaborate aquarium setups. Also, once settled in a fish tank, you’ll likely see them breed. You might get tired of them breeding, similarly to how we get tired of Guppies breeding in a fish tank. The following is a list of equipment I suggest for these shell dwellers. You’ll likely want to have all of these supplies and equipment before assembling the entire aquarium.
- Aquarium (minimum 20 gallon long)
- Aquarium Stand
- Aquarium Cover
- Aquarium Light (NICREW CLassicLED)
- Background For Aquarium
- Heater (Fluval M 100-Watt)
- Filter – Seachem Tidal or Sponge Filter (with air pump)
There are additional supplies that are highly recommended when setting up an aquarium and are essential for keeping it running smoothly. The following are supplies, decorations, and other things I recommend for your shell dweller fish tank. I’ll discuss the musts (in my opinion) and things you could get by without.
- Substrate – CaribSea Ivory Coast Sand
- Escargot Shells
- Texas Holey Rock
- Buffer for pH – Seachem Equilibrium
- Aquarium Net
- API Freshwater Master Test kit
- API GH Test Kit
- Water Conditioner – Seachem Prime
- Fish Food
- Buckets
- Gravel Vacuum
- Battery-Powered Air Pump
As you can see, the list of supplies is pretty extensive. If you’re currently a fishkeeper, you may already have a good portion of these supplies. However, if you’re not, you will likely be spending some money to get everything you need.
Aquarium & Aquarium Stand
The first thing you’ll need to acquire for this setup is an aquarium and an aquarium stand. The aquariums that are easiest for me to acquire are Aqueon aquariums. They are generally great quality and a good price. I highly suggest picking up a fish tank from a fish store, instead of online. Glass and shipping don’t mix well together, so it’s better to buy one at the store. For shell dwellers, I recommend providing at least a 20-gallon long fish tank. Shell dwellers do better with more length and width in an aquarium than height. This is because they spend most of their time around the sandbed with their shells.
Buying a used aquarium and stand is also an option. You’ll have to be careful with used aquariums because they may have issues due to previous use and age. You’ll also want to make sure whatever you use for a stand can hold a 20-gallon aquarium. Remember, 20 gallons of water will weigh about 160 lbs. Whatever you put the aquarium on will have to be able to hold that weight for a long time. Cheap material may bend and bow under the weight of the fish tank, which may eventually lead the aquarium to collapse. Also, make sure your aquarium is level to lower the chance of a blowout.
Aquarium Lid & Light
Shellies are not inherently known to jump, but technically, just about all fish can jump out of an aquarium. A glass top can do wonders to help prevent that. A glass top will also lower evaporation in the fish tank, which will also lower how much you have to top off the water. If you’re into custom lids, consider checking out GCInnovations’ custom 20-gallon long lid on Etsy. They currently make a lid for Aqueon and Imagitarium. Be sure to purchase the correct one if you go this route.
Due to the harshness of the water parameters, many plants will not prosper in this aquarium. Shellies enjoy alkaline water with higher levels of water hardness and increased pH levels. Most plants prefer soft and acidic waters. So they are, for the most part, incompatible. Shell Dweller Cichlids, like Multis, also move shells and sand around. This will make the substrate a pretty inhospitable place for plants, and you’ll likely see them get uprooted constantly. What I am trying to explain is that these fish don’t need the fanciest lights to be happy because you probably won’t be growing plants in the aquarium. Any aquarium light should do perfectly fine over the fish tank. However, if you’re inclined to add some kind of plants, consider trying any of the 10 Best Aquarium Plants For Beginners. These plants are hardy, robust, and can handle some neglect. If any plants will succeed in this setup, it’s floating plants.
Aquarium Backgrounds
I am a cheap person and do what I can to save costs where possible in this hobby. Aquarium backgrounds are one of the things I usually go cheap on. I usually go to the Dollar Store or craft store and buy a large piece of black paper for the background. I then use scotch tape to tape the paper to the back of the fish tank. This has worked well for me, and I suggest you give it a try if you’re trying to save some money. However, don’t let me stop you from buying a background that’s better suited for your setup.
Aquarium Heaters
Shell Dwellers enjoy nice warm water. They do best under water temperatures ranging between 75°F and 80°F. Having a heater in the aquarium is crucial for keeping these fish healthy and happy. There are many heater options available. Take a look at the 6 Best Aquarium Heaters for Freshwater & Saltwater Fish Tanks to see some of the best options out there. I provided a link to the Fluval M-Series Heater earlier in this article. I enjoy using these, and they’re often my go-to choice for heaters. The 100W version of this heater is rated for aquariums up to 30 gallons, so it should provide plenty of power to keep your aquarium warm. Don’t forget to pick up an internal thermometer as well to keep an eye on the temperature.
Aquarium Filter Options
For aquarium filters, we can go two different routes. The first option that many people take is using a sponge filter. The reason many people use sponge filters for shell dweller aquariums is that fry (baby fish) cannot get sucked up into a sponge filter, unlike with a hang-on-back filter. Multis also tend to move sand around, and a sponge filter will not get clogged up from the sand because it does not have a motor. If you choose to go the sponge filter route, take a look at Sponge Filter Use, Cleaning, and Extra Tips for some information on them. If you purchase a sponge filter, you will also need to purchase an air pump to allow water to move through it.
The other route that I recommend for a 20-gallon long shell dweller aquarium is to use a hang-on back filter with a prefilter covering the intake tube. I have grown to love the Seachem Tidal line of aquarium filters. They come loaded with a bunch of features that put them on top of my list of best aquarium power filters. Choose a filter that works best for you. I enjoy all the bells and whistles that come with filters. However, you may be someone who enjoys a more basic filter setup and do not need all the features. Check out the 7 Best Hang On the Back Power Filters for Freshwater Aquariums to see some of the best HOB filters on the market. You can purchase 12 pieces of Black Prefilter Sponge (affiliate link) to cover your filter intake tube. The Seachem Tidal 35 is the smallest size you can purchase. Luckily, the filter has adjustable flow rates, so you can slow down how much water gets pushed through the aquarium.
Substrate For Aquarium, Escargot Shells, and Texas Holey Rock
I chose the CaribSea Ivory Coast Sand for a few reasons. It looks cool with the black and white grains of sand, and it adds a unique touch of color to the aquarium. The main reason I chose this sand over other sands is that it aids in buffering your fish tank. This sand helps keep pH levels from dropping and assists in maintaining proper water parameters for your shellies. Some fishkeepers mix this sand with other Aragonite sands for the look and additional buffering capacity. 20 lbs of this sand may or may not be enough for your needs. I added one bag into a 20-gallon long, and felt like I could use more sand.
Escargot shells are not the natural shells of shellies. The native shell species that shell dwellers use are incredibly expensive and hard to find. These are the next best thing. Regardless, shells are a must-have for your shellies. This is what they use for their home. They guard, fight, and constantly battle and switch shells. Without them, they’ll be incredibly stressed and will suffer. I recommend having at least 3 shells per fish. Covering the bottom of your aquarium with shells is probably the best route for this setup.
Texas Holey Rock is technically not necessary for this setup. I added some into mine for some structure, to hide equipment, and to provide additional buffering. My goal is to try and buffer the water to the proper pH and hardness levels without having to use too many chemicals. Using rock and sand will help with this.
Seachem Equilibrium & Water Test Kits
If you have naturally occurring hard water, you may not need to buffer your aquarium water at all. I use RO water for all my fish tanks because I do not have the cleanest water out of the tap. This means buffering for pH and hardness will likely be a necessity. Seachem Equilibrium is the mineral buffer that I recommend to achieve proper GH levels for your aquarium.
It’s important to test your aquarium water, tap water, and water after buffering agents are added to make sure you’re adding the proper amounts. I use the API Freshwater Master Test Kit for this with the GH test kit to keep an eye on my water parameters.
Other Accessories & Supplies
One thing you’ll need is fish food. Multis are predominantly carnivorous, so protein-rich foods are the way to go for them. Fluval Bug Bites, Bloodworms, and micropellets are good options. I would also provide them with crushed-up flake food as a supplement. Giving fish a variety of foods will help provide them with an umbrella of nutrients. One food might lack a certain nutrient that another may provide.
There are a few other things you’ll need if this is your first time setting up an aquarium. You’ll need nets, buckets, a gravel vacuum, and consider looking into medications and aquarium salt for your fish in case they get sick. One other thing that is often overlooked is a battery-powered air pump. These are useful if you live in an area that loses power often. Fish can handle days without food, but a lack of oxygen due to no water movement can be detrimental to your fish tank.
What’s Next?
Before you add any fish into your aquarium, you’ll have to allow your aquarium to go through the nitrogen cycle. This cycle essentially creates the environment for your fish to live in. Your aquarium will go through 3 stages during this cycle. An ammonia stage, nitrite stage, and the nitrate stage, where we want to be. At the end of the cycle, we’ll want to see 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and a hint of nitrates. You’ll use the API Freshwater Master Test Kit to keep an eye on the water parameters.
Stages can take anywhere between 6 to 8 weeks. You’ll need to give bacteria something to feed on. I usually drop some fish food into the aquarium to jump-start the cycle, but this is not a very scientific method of doing things. If you have an aquarium or know someone with an aquarium, ask them for some filter media to help seed your fish tank with bacteria. Seeding the fish tank could help speed up the nitrogen cycle.
Final Notes
Shell dwellers are fascinating little fish. At the time of this writing, I am setting up a 20-gallon long for Multis, and I cannot wait to get it stocked. If you’re entering the world of fishkeeping and are looking for a single-species aquarium, consider getting these fish. If not, check out 10 Best Fish For a 20 Gallon Tank – Freshwater Edition to see some other really cool fish that can be kept in a 20-gallon aquarium.