Tag: fish

Blue Spot Jawfish – Complete Care Guide
Blue Spot Jawfish Information
The Blue Spot Jawfish is an incredibly gorgeous fish with a yellow/orange/black body with vibrant blue spots seen throughout. This amazing fish spends most of its time digging burrows and perfecting its home. Growing to be about 3.5 inches in lengh, the Blue Spot Jawfish requires a deep sand bed to keep it comfortable. Also, having a lot of sifting space will help keep this fish satisfied. It can be aggressive towards other jawfish but it normally does not bother other inhabitants in the aquarium. It is a little tougher to keep because it known to jump out of the aquarium and making sure it is being fed isn’t always easy. Many fish keepers are weary about keeping this fish because of the difficulty in keeping it alive.
Aquarium Requirements
The Blue Spot Jawfish doesn’t fare well in anything smaller than a 30 gallon fish tank because of its length when fully grown. It will require a deep sand bed of at least 3 inches but more is preferred. A tightly sealed lid is a must because this species of fish will jump out of your aquarium. The water parameter requirements for the Blue Spot Jawfish are similar to many other marine fish:
- Water Temperature 72 – 78 degrees Fahrenheit
- pH 8.0 – 8.4
- KH 8 – 12
- Salinity 1.020 and 1.025 sg.
These water parameters will help keep your fish happy and healthy. The most important thing with water parameters is stability. Swinging water parameters can be detrimental to a fish.
Food & Diet
The Blue Spot Jawfish is a carnivorous fish and its diet should reflect that. Blue Spot Jawfish eat mysis shrimp, brine shrimp and pellet food. We encourage to feed the fish multiple times a day. Blue Spot Jawfish will also sift through sand and consume copeopods that are within the sand.
Image by Rhododendrites on wikiMedia
After introducing a jawfish into the aquarium, I normally siphon food into a coral feeder. Then, place the feeder close to the Blue Spot’s burrow and release food. This guarantees a successful feeding and makes sure the Blue Spot Jawfish is not getting outcompeted for food. After doing this for a week or so and seeing the jawfish successfully eat, I normally stop feeding it with a coral feeder and let it collect food on its own. I normally use mysis shrimp and/or pellet food when feeding.
Tank Mates
The Blue Spot Jawfish is a pretty stand up citizen in the aquarium. This fish is completely reef safe and it will also not normally bother other fish in the aquarium and will do great with fish such as:
- Clownfish
- Dottybacks
- Dwarf Angelfish
- Wrasses
- Anthias
But it fares well with many other fish. The problems arise when more jawfish or gobies are introduced into the aquarium. This species of jawfish does not like having other jawfish or gobies in its domain. In incredibly large fish tanks they should be able to figure out territories. Regardless, keeping two or more jawfish or a jawfish with a goby is not recommended. The only exception is a mated pair of Blue Spots.
Breeding
Keeping this fish happy and alive is challenging but breeding is even more challenging. There isn’t much information floating around about how to breed this fish but the most challenging part is definitely finding a mated pair.
Final Notes
Although this fish is probably one of the most beautiful ones on the market, the challenge of keeping it alive sometimes outweighs the desire of keeping it in the home aquarium. Take all the pre-cautions before adding this fish into the aquarium. The color patterns and personality are phenomenal and it’s an excellent addition to any saltwater fish tank.
Featured image by Rhododendrites on wikiMedia
December 2, 2020
Banggai Cardinal – Complete Care Guide
Banggai Cardinalfish Information
Banggai Cardinals also known as the Kaudern’s Cardinalfish are fairly common saltwater fish with a very unique body shape and color pattern. These hardy fish are usually some of the first fish purchased for a saltwater aquarium because they are fairly inexpensive and not too finicky. They will grow to be around 3 inches in length when they are fully grown but should be kept alone or in pairs when keeping them in smaller aquariums. This guide will go into detail about the needs of this fish.
Aquarium Requirements
Kaudern’s Cardinalfish do not require an incredible amount of space and a pair (male/female) will do well in saltwater fish tanks that are 30 gallons or larger. They may become aggressive if two males are kept together. It is possible to keep them in small groups when the aquarium is 100 gallons or larger but be mindful of potential aggression. The Banggai Cardinal has similar water parameter requirements to most other saltwater fish which are:
- Temperatures (72-78 degrees Fahrenheit)
- dKH levels between 8 and 12
- salinity levels between 1.020 and 1.025 sg
- pH levels between 8.1 and 8.4
Just like most other fish in an aquarium, the Kaudern’s Cardinal prefers having quite a bit of live rock with holes and caves of varying size. This will give the fish spots to hide when it stressed and also a place to go when the lights are off. More hiding spaces will help settle some territorial disputes as well.
Food & Diet
The Banggai Cardinalfish is a carnivore so providing meaty food such as mysis shrimp is a must. There are many other feeding options such as, spirulina brine shrimp, pellet food and flake food. This fish may be a little picky when it comes to feeding on pellets and flakes so pay close attention to what the Banggai Cardinal eats.
Tank Mates
Banggai Cardinals are fairly peaceful and will primarily fight over territories with others of its species or similarly shaped fish like pajama cardinals. They are slow moving fish so sharing a tank with other peaceful fish is the best route to successfully keep this fish. They normally do well with:
- Clownfish
- Dwarf Angels
- Anthias
- Basslets
- Blennies
- Gobies
- Tangs
The Kaudern’s Cardinalfish is completely reef safe. It should not bother any coral or invertebrate in the aquarium. Also, like stated earlier, they will do well as a male and female pair in smaller fish tanks but should be fine in small groups when fish tanks become 100 gallons or larger.
Breeding
Banggai Cardinalfish are fairly easy to breed but some work must be done in order to keep the fry alive. To begin, a pair must be found in order to breed successfully. It is hard to find the sex of males and females because they look very similar. When hunting for a pair of cardinals, observe their behavior in the fish tank. In a group, the dominant male will push away any competition and spend a lot of time with one other fish, the female. Keep an eye out for that when looking for a pair.
Once paired, keeping the male and female happy and fed will increase your chances of acquiring babies. Providing an urchin in the aquarium is not mandatory but it is beneficial to giving them the feeling of being in the wild.
The male will hold the babies in his mouth so making sure the male is well fed before holding the brood in his mouth is very important. The male will not eat as it is holding the offspring. The female will be the primary defense for the male when he is in this vulnerable state.
Once the fry leave the male they may spend their time in-between an urchin’s spines. They will most likely perish if there are other fish in the aquarium. Also, it is very important to have live baby brine shrimp ready to feed the offspring once they leave the males mouth. It is important to feed the babies multiple times a day.
Final Notes
Banggai Cardinalfish are very interesting and easy to care for fish. They may not be for everyone but they’re fantastic for anyone who loves their unique shape and color pattern. It is one of the few fish in the saltwater hobby that can quite easily breed in captivity and growing a brood to adulthood is always exciting!
November 20, 2020
5 Fantastic Freshwater Fish for 10 Gallon Aquarium
Setting up a fish tank is a very fun and rewarding process. Making it your own work of art is definitely a long term endeavor. Deciding what fish to introduce into your aquarium is part of the process and probably the most exciting part of it all. This guide will help showcase some of the many freshwater fish that can happily reside in a 10 gallon aquarium. If you haven’t already setup a freshwater aquarium, check out this guide.
Harlequin Rasbora
To begin, I would like to introduce you to the harlequin rasbora, sometimes known as the t-bone rasbora. This rasbora has the iconic black pork chop shape displaying from the middle to the back of its body. Besides that, it has a beautiful copper/red toned body that stands out in an aquarium.
This fish is small and will be around 2″ in size when it is fully grown. Due to its schooling habits, it is recommended to have around 8 – 10 beautiful rasboras in an aquarium together. They normally do a great job closely schooling together and will fill the middle to top of your aquarium with life!
Image by Juan R. Lascorz on Wikimedia
Male and females can be distinguished from one another by observing the bottom part of their “pork chop” pattern. The males will have a straight tip at the bottom and females will have a more rounded tip. Females will also be a little bit larger than the males. These fish will successfully breed inside of a well planted aquarium. They require broad leaved plants in order to do so. Plants like the Anubias are excellent option to have in the aquarium. If one or many are available, the rasbora will potentially lay eggs on the underside of the broad leaf.
This species of fish are omnivorous. Providing a nicely ranged diet of pellet, flake, and frozen meat foods will keep this fish happy. They enjoy temperatures ranging from 72 – 78 degrees Fahrenheit, KH levels around 6 – 10, and pH levels in between 6.0 and 6.5. These fish are excellent choices for heavily planted aquariums.
Threadfin Rainbowfish
Threadfin Rainbowfish may not be as common as the harlequin rasbora but regardless it is an interesting fish to add into a freshwater 10 gallon aquarium. Their colors aren’t as vibrant as fish like the neon tetra but they can get a beautiful blue, gray, red, and black coloration on them. Males will have long threadlike appendages that reach out from their anal and dorsal fins. If you think their colors are lacking, the fins and shape surely make up for it.
Image by Gianmaria Visconti on Wikimedia
This fish species maxes at 2″ in size and are perfect for a planted aquarium 10 gallons or larger. They enjoy being in schools and I would recommend 5 to 8 individuals in a 10 gallon aquarium. 5 in an aquarium that is fairly open without too many decorations and 8 in a heavily planted aquarium.
Like stated before the males will have the long threadlike appendages protruding out of their dorsal and anal fins. The females will not. This is the easiest way to distinguish the two. Also, males will most likely be far more vibrant in color compared to the females. These fish have the possibility of laying eggs in an aquarium.
Threadfin rainbows are omnivorous creatures and benefit from having a large range of food. Due to their small mouth sizes it is recommended to feed them smaller pellets and meaty food. Flake food will work as well! This species of fish do well in water temperatures ranging 72 – 78 degrees Fahrenheit, KH levels between 7 and 10 and pH levels between 6.0 – 7.2.
Male Betta Fish
Male betta fish are very common fish in the freshwater aquarium hobby. They are often kept in large bowls without filtration due to their ability to acquire their own oxygen. They can and should be kept in larger aquariums than a bowl to keep them even happier. The betta fish has a fantastic personality and interacts well with humans. You can’t take it out and play with it but they know when it’s dinner time and will swim up to the glass to greet you. They have many different colors and a wide variation in fin shapes. I will be broadly providing information about bettas here.
Most betta species reach a max size of 2.5 inches. There may be a little variation dependent on their fin lengths. They should be the only betta kept in an enclosure. They may be kept with other fish but be sure the others will not nip at the betta’s fins and because the betta could nip at fish with long fins as well. Female bettas can be kept in an aquarium together but they do not have as pronounced fins.
Males and females should only be housed temporarily if they are breeding. The male will build a bubble nest and the female will lay her eggs in it. Once that occurs, the female should be removed. The male will tend to the eggs until they hatch. Once hatched very small food should be given to the newly hatched fry. Foods such as baby brine shrimp and crushed flakes should be provided.
Betta fish are carnivorous fish. Their diets should consist mostly of protein rich foods such as bloodworms, brine shrimp, or protein heavy pellet food. Due to their diets the aquarium might see spikes in undesirable water parameters so testing the water should be a common occurrence. The betta fish also thrives in water temperatures between 75 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, KH between 0 and 25, and pH levels ranging from 6.0 – 8.0.
Endler’s Livebearers
Endler’s Livebearers continue to gain traction and popularity in the freshwater aquarium keeping hobby. Their vibrant assortment of colors make them a wonderful addition to any aquarium. They are fantastic to add if you are looking for lively fish for the middle to top of the aquarium.
Image by Usien on Wikimedia
These fish normally start off very small, usually purchased when they are less than an inch in length. They will grow to be roughly 2 inches in sizes when they are fully grown. Keeping around 6 – 8 in a 10 gallon fish tank is suitable with the understanding that this species of fish breeds like no tomorrow and 6 fish can easily turn into 20 then 50 and so on. Proper housing for the new offspring will be required.
Endler’s livebearers are as their name suggests, live bearers. They do not lay eggs but instead their offspring come out of their womb very well and alive. Treat them like any other platy, guppy, or swordtail when for breeding purposes. They do not require anything special.
This species of fish is omnivorous and would love a nice variety of foods. Like stated above, pellet, flake, and frozen meat foods will provide all the variety this fish needs to obtain its nutrients. Keep in mind they are usually sold very small so flake food might need to be crushed a little for them to enjoy it. They do best in water temperatures ranging from 75 – 80 degrees, KH levels ranging between 10 and 30, and pH levels with a wide range of 5.5 – 8.0.
Cardinal Tetra
Last but not least on this guide is the beautiful cardinal tetra. Do not mistaken this fish with the neon tetra. They look incredibly similar but the cardinal tetra’s red stripe runs from its eyes to tail and it lacks that white area near its stomach. This fish is more for expert fish keepers because they’re a little more finicky than other fish.
Image by Elma on Wikimedia
When they are full grown, cardinal tetras reach a size of 2 inches. They are perfect for densely planted aquariums of 10 gallons or larger. I would keep a school of 6 to 8 cardinal tetras in a 10 gallon aquarium. They are quite an active little fish and their vibrant colors add to their beauty.
It is possible to breed cardinal tetras in an aquarium but it is not very common. They require very specific water parameters to successfully breed. Specifically dH levels between 1 and 2 and pH levels as low as 5 and 6.
Just like many of the other fish in this list, cardinal tetras are omnivores and benefit from a range of food. Starting off with flake food is a good idea until this fish is able to consume larger pellets. Brine shrimp is always recommended as well as bloodworms! This is a fantastic fish with colors that can drop jaws!
Final Thoughts
This is just a small list of fish that will do well in 10 gallon aquariums. I wanted to choose fish with vibrant colors or very unique fin shapes and designs. Hopefully this list helps provide information needed to help choose some cool freshwater fish for 10 gallon fish tanks. If you already have the fish, check out information on low light freshwater plants you can add to your fish tank!
September 2, 2020
Freshwater Angelfish – Complete Care Guide
Freshwater Angelfish, sometimes called tropical angelfish are quite a popular and common fish in the freshwater fishkeeping hobby. They become large and can be the centerpiece of many fish tanks. There is nothing like a mated pair of angelfish swimming side-by-side in a fish tank. They are part of the cichlid family but look a little different with their unique arrow shaped bodies. You can find Freshwater Angelfish for sale at most pet stores and online. This guide will help provide more information on freshwater angelfish and the proper care to keep these fish happy.
Aquarium Requirements
There are fish in the saltwater hobby that are also called Angelfish. They have a much different shape from this species and aren’t related. I wanted to point that out for newer fish keepers. Technically speaking, there are both freshwater and saltwater angelfish but these Angelfish live ONLY in freshwater.
How Big do Angelfish Get?
Due to its unique body size an Angelfish should be kept in an aquarium no smaller than 30 gallons but a 55-gallon tank is even better for their size. Taller aquariums are preferred because these fish can grow to be roughly 8″ tall and 6″ long. They need plenty of room to turn and maneuver and anything smaller just doesn’t cut it.
Aquarium Decorations
Angelfish love having driftwood in their enclosure which helps soften and acidify the water. These fish also love heavily planted aquariums with quite a bit of open space for them to swim. They have long, showy, and delicate fins so it is important to find a balance of open swimming space and decorations.
Water Parameters
Freshwater Angelfish are quite hardy and easy to care for. They can handle a nice range of water parameters. The following are ranges that Angelfish are typically kept in:
- Temperature Range: 75-82° F
- KH Range: KH 1-5
- pH Range: pH 5.8-7.0
These fish do best in waters that are little more acidic. That is partly why they do very well in planted aquariums. Make sure fish kept with angelfish have the same or similar water parameter requirements.
What do Freshwater Angelfish Eat?
The Angelfish is not a very picky eater but they should be given a variety of foods. They are omnivorous so providing both algae and meaty food will be very beneficial to them. Remember to adjust the food size appropriately depending on the size of the fish. Also, like many other fish, an angelfish will attempt to eat anything that will fit into its mouth. Be mindful of keeping small fish and shrimp with a full-grown angel because they can become a quick snack. Freshwater snails and larger fish should be perfectly fine around angelfish.
Tank Mates for Angelfish
Freshwater Angelfish types vary in color, shape, and size. There are Zebra Veil Angelfish, Blue Angelfish, Koi Angelfish, and much more. Each should do just fine with one another, it all depends on your preference in color.
Angelfish are considered semi-aggressive but are a more peaceful cichlid species. They usually will become aggressive when fighting for territory and mates. As stated above, they have the potential of eating smaller fish and shrimp but do fine with larger fish. Other than that, they don’t usually bother with anything else. They do great with Discus fish, Parrotfish, larger tetras, Denison Barbs, and many other fish.
When angelfish are small they are commonly kept in larger groups. Once they become larger and mature, they will begin to pair off from one another. It is important to identify a pair and house them together in their aquarium because once they decide to lay their eggs, the pair will bully and fight any other fish to protect the eggs. It is possible to purchase a pair directly from a store, or just have one or two angelfish in an aquarium together but once it is time for them to breed no more than 2 should be housed in a fish tank.
How to Breed Freshwater Angelfish
Angelfish are quite commonly bred in the aquarium hobby. They will lay quite a bit of eggs and will defend them with their lives! To breed angels, you first need a pair. Once they are paired up, it is important to provide a flat piece of decor for them to drop their eggs on. The piece can be something like a piece of slate. It should be placed in an area with moderate flow. The eggs require flow to help prevent fungus growth which can ruin the batch. If everything is suitable for the angelfish, the female will drop the eggs and they will adhere to the piece of slate, and the male will follow behind and fertilize the eggs.
There are many opportunistic fish in the aquarium lurking and waiting. Once they spot eggs they may try and eat them. The angelfish will do their best to protect their brood. After hatching it is important to feed the fry baby brine shrimp until they can eat crushed flake food.
Final Notes
Angelfish are wonderful fish that are pretty easy to care for. A pair can be a gorgeous centerpiece for many large aquariums. Their long fins and gentle movement give them a majestic appearance. They are quite easy to breed and for a cichlid are pretty docile. There are many breeders out there with many different variations available such as the Veil Angelfish, Koi Angelfish, Marble Angelfish, and more! Check them out and consider picking up a pair of your favorite!
August 25, 2020
4 Unique Saltwater Animals to Consider For a 30 gallon aquarium
Filling a 30-gallon saltwater aquarium with animals can be a stressful task. There are just so many options to choose from. This guide will go over a few unique fish and crustaceans that can be kept in a saltwater aquarium. There are many others out there but these are a few that really stand out to me that aren’t incredibly hard to keep.
1. Yellow Assessor
The Yellow Assessor, otherwise known as the Golden Assessor Basslet, is not a very common fish in a reef aquarium but it is fantastic! They can get a little territorial like other basslets but overall are quite a peaceful fish that will not bother invertebrates. It is perfect for reef aquariums! Provide quite a bit of hiding spots and rockwork to dull the aggression towards other fish. This fish is carnivorous so providing meaty food such as mysis shrimp or brine shrimp is a must! It will max out around 3″ in size and is an excellent addition for aquariums that are 30 gallons or larger. They have a gorgeous yellow body with a touch of red on its fins. A unique feature of this fish is that at times it will swim along rocks sideways or upside down. It usually gives new fish owners a scare but it is perfectly normal!
2. Geometric Pygmy Perchlet
The Geometric Pygmy Perchlet is a grumpy-looking fish with red and white coloration on its body. It has a much higher dorsal fin than many other fish. It can be a little territorial to other tank mates but it normally minds its own business. This fish is carnivorous so providing meaty food is very important!
It will max out at 2 inches in size and will do very well in a 30-gallon reef aquarium. One unique attribute of this fish is that it will actually perch on rockwork and sit there very still waiting for food.
3. Watchman Goby + Pistol Shrimp
Now a watchman goby is not very unique but there is a great possibility that if a pistol shrimp (otherwise known as a snapping shrimp) is also introduced into the aquarium, the two will pair up, share a burrow, and live life together. The goby will keep a watch out and protect the shrimp and they will at times share food. It is really interesting to observe these two working together and protecting their burrow. The pistol shrimp is also able to use its claw to create a “snapping” sound that can be heard outside of the aquarium. This sound is used to scare off predators and the pistol shrimp uses the claw as a weapon to catch prey.
Image by Haplochromis on Wikimedia
Both of these creatures are great for aquariums because the watchman goby will help keep your sand bed clean sifting for plankton while the shrimp will collect uneaten food that falls to the bottom of the aquarium. For the most part, the snapping shrimp is harmless except with small shrimp. The watchman goby will max out at a size of 4″ and this duo is a perfect combination for a reef aquarium. Check out the Watchman Goby – Complete Care Guide to learn more about this fish.
4. Mantis Shrimp
The mantis shrimp should be kept alone in a species tank. They are highly intelligent and very aggressive. Due to their aggression, only one mantis shrimp should be kept in an aquarium. Their very colorful bodies are truly fascinating and their hunting tactic is even more so. They primarily use their club-like appendage to hunt and can attack crustaceans, fish, and other unsuspecting animals with their powerful strike. They have enough power to crush snail and crab shells. This is why they should be kept alone in an aquarium. Crustaceans are recommended to throw in from time to time as a quick snack for the mantis shrimp. Otherwise, the mantis shrimp should be fed live feeder fish, frozen scallops, shrimp, and other meaty food.
Image by prilfish on Wikimedia
A mantis shrimp can use its claws which are as powerful as a .22 caliber bullet to break the glass of its enclosure. I would highly recommend using acrylic instead of glass for the mantis shrimp’s enclosure. Other than that, it is quite easy to set up their aquarium, and are fairly easy to care for.
Final Thoughts
Hopefully, this list gives a good idea for hobbyists who are looking for something different in their aquarium or are looking for a very niche animal to keep. Marine animals are very unique and have great personalities so keeping them is always a great time! Some require precaution before keeping but after that saltwater systems are quite enjoyable.
August 6, 2020
Wonderful Coral Beauty Angelfish!
There are many different types of angelfish in the saltwater & freshwater hobby. Most are at least labeled “with caution” when keeping with coral. In my opinion, some angelfish are more prone to nibbling on coral than others. Working in pet stores, I had the least amount of complaints from returning customers about coral beauty angelfish and their coral nipping habits over angels such as the Potter’s or Lemon peel. Take that information with a grain of salt especially if there are high-tier coral dwellings in your aquarium. At the end of the day, it’s a hit or miss with angelfish. I have a coral beauty angelfish that will nibble on fleshy open brain coral but will not bother anything else but who’s to say it won’t turn on my coral and eat away in the future?
Coral Beauty Requirements
The coral beauty will max out at a size of 4″ and is not recommended in aquariums that hold less than 75 gallons of water. They are very active fish and require plenty of space to graze on algae and sponges in the saltwater fish tank. Plenty of live rock and hiding spots should be given to this gorgeous fish.
These fish should typically be the only dwarf angelfish in the aquarium and they should be one of the last fish added into the system due to their aggression. They are highly territorial and can fight with other angels as well as other fish.
The coral beauty is an omnivore so providing marine algae, meaty food, as well as flake and pellet food will keep it happy and thriving! They are quite easy to care for and should happily eat any food provided to them.
As stated previously, most if not all angel fish are either not reef safe or with caution in a reef system. They have a history of nipping corals. They can graze on coral right from the beginning or acquire a taste if no food is provided for a few hours. I once had an Eibli Angel that would sit next to Frag plugs and watch me watch it. It would swim around very innocently and once my head was turned away it would get closer and closer and begin nipping on the coral, so please be mindful about adding an angelfish into you’re reef aquarium.
One final note about coral beauty and many other Dwarf Angelfish is that they can be shy, very very shy. The previously mentioned Eibli Angelfish took 6 months after introduction into the fish tank to finally come around and swim in open water. Otherwise, I was only able to see short glimpses of the fish. My coral beauty angel took about 3 weeks to get comfortable enough with me to swim in open water.
Final thoughts
Even With the coral nipping habits, these are incredible fish with wonderful and unique personalities. I can observe mine swimming and adventuring around my reef tank all day. The colors on this fish are remarkable, that gorgeous mixture of purple, blue, orange, and yellow just can’t be matched! Each one has a little bit of variation to it. If you’re jumping into a hobby and looking for an angelfish, consider a coral beauty!
July 20, 2020
The Alien Like Pearly Jawfish
The pearly jawfish sometimes known as a Yellowhead Jawfish is a very unique marine fish. The white coloring on the body, yellow head, and enormous black/blue eyes make this fish a wonder in a saltwater aquarium. It acts a little different from a goby but is quite a wonderful sand-sifting animal.
Jawfish Requirements
Like many burrowing fish, the pearly jawfish tends to miraculously jump out of the saltwater aquarium. Having a well-sealed aquarium is recommended for this fish due to its acrobatic skills.
When first introduced into the aquarium this fish is quite shy and may get out-competed for food. To guarantee it was eating, I used a long pipette to spot-feed the Yellowhead Jawfish in my home aquarium. At first was timid with the instrument but realized that food came out of it. A Jawfish that is eating is a good sign!
A minimum of 30 gallons is recommended for this fish as well as having a deep sand bed because they love to burrow deep into the sand. The sand should be very fine so they can put it into their mouth to move around. It is also very recommended to have your live rock touching the bottom glass/acrylic of your display tank. This is important because depending on how the jawfish burrows it can cause the rock to shift which can lead it to fall or crushing the jawfish underneath.
These fish are fairly hardy and should take to eating and will happily eat any food provided. A mixture of pellet food, flake food, and meaty food should be given. They will sometimes bolt out of their burrow, grab food, and swim back into their den. They have quite a unique personality.
It will grow to be about a max size of 4″ which is why they require to have a deep sand bed of no less than 4″. This jawfish is a very passive fish and will not bother any other fish. It may get bullied by other burrowing fish so be aware.
Pearly jawfish are perfectly reef safe and will not any coral. Be aware of any coral that may be in your sand bed because there is a chance this fish will completely cover it with sand. There have been many occasions where I had to dig out coral from a 1/2″ of sand because my jawfish decided sand belonged there.
Jawfish Hi-jinx
One funny thing this fish does is it will sometimes build a “fortress” around its burrow. It will collect small pebbles and snail shells and build a small wall. It will try to fight off hermit crabs and snails that may try to get into its home. It will take mouthfuls of sand, swim a few inches away from its burrow, and spit it all back out. They’re a very enjoyable fish to observe and a great addition to a reef aquarium.
Final Thoughts
This fish in my opinion is an incredible addition to anyone’s saltwater aquarium. They have a very unique appearance, they are pretty hardy, and they have incredible personalities. They will eat anything and do a pretty good job of keeping your sand clean because of their sand-tossing abilities. Besides keeping it from jumping and making sure it eats, you can’t go wrong with a pearly jawfish!

July 18, 2020
Wonders of GloFish
GloFish are genetically modified fish that have found their way into the aquarium hobby. The original goal was to modify the fish’s gene so its florescence sparks up when it comes in contact with pollutants in water systems. The fish ended up in the aquarium business and now GloFish can be purchased for your aquarium!
Types of GloFish
At the time of this writing, four different species of fish have a pronounced fluorescent gene: Zebra Danio, White skirt Tetra, Tiger Barb, and Red-Tailed Shark. These fish come in a variety of colors and can be found at most pet stores.
GloFish can be added to a normal aquarium or be in their own “GloFish tank.” I think the effect of their florescence is much cooler in their fish tank. The brightly colored fish, decorations that glow under blue light, and black gravel are a great combination for a GloFish Setup. Keep in mind that research should be conducted on the requirements of each fish before purchase. For example, the Zebra Danio and White Skirt Tetra Glofish are peaceful and perfect for a community tank but the Tiger Barb and Red-Tailed Shark GloFish are considered semi-aggressive and should be in a larger aquarium with different types of fish that can handle aggression.
GloFish Aquarium Setup Requirements
For the most part GloFish aquariums can be setup like any old fish tank. They will need gravel, decorations, heaters, a filter and light. As mentioned before, if setting up a GloFish specific aquarium, it is recommended to have decorations that will glow under a blue light. They will add an “out of this world” feeling. LED lights that have a blue light setting are perfect for this type of aquarium build. The blue light is what will give the fish their glow. Other than the lighting and decorations, you would setup a GloFish tank like any other freshwater aquarium. Most keepers do not add live plants because they do not do well under blue lighting. For more information on how to setup a freshwater aquarium, check out this guide.
Maintenance & Feeding
GloFish are kept almost like any other fish. The main difference is the lighting that is used to enjoy them. Feeding should be just like any aquarium fish. They should be fed once or twice a day and should be given a variety of food such as pellet food, flakes, and frozen meats.
Maintenance should also be similar to a normal aquarium. A gravel vacuum should be used to siphon the gravel and about 10% of the water should be replaced weekly to keep the water refreshed and to remove nitrates and phosphates. Having a freshwater test kit handy and testing the water will help guide you to proper aquarium care.
Final Thoughts
Every aquarium is unique and GloFish aquariums are a new branch of the hobby with a very quirky style to them. The fish themselves have been around for years and the company behind them keeps adding more fish species and colors for consumers to enjoy.
July 16, 2020
What’s The Deal with Danios?
Danios are quite well known with experienced aquarium keepers but sometimes fall under the radar for newer aquarists. These fish are quite hardy and are excellent for new hobbyists. Although I do not recommend cycling a fish tank with just fish, many people turn to Danios to do just that. They’re cheap and like I said before, very hardy.
Danio Information
Many different types of danio can be kept in an aquarium. My personal favorites are the zebra danio and pearl danio. They maintain a smaller size but for being such a cheap fish have a little bit of color to them. Other types of danio that can be purchased are the large giant danio which should be kept in an aquarium with a minimum of 30 gallons, glowlight danio which stays quite small and does well in a 10-gallon aquarium, many longfin forms of a few of these fish, and lastly the GloFish variants of the zebra danio for anyone interested in GloFish. These fish enjoy being in groups of 5 or more so keep that in mind when purchasing them.
Many hobbyists build aquariums for tranquility and calmness. The one downside to Danios is that they provide just the opposite. These fish are highly active and zip around the fish tank constantly. They have an endless supply of energy it seems. They love heavily planted aquariums that also have open spaces for them to swim through. For the most part, they do find in faster moving water as well as very still water.
Longfin Zebra Danio by Marrabbio2 on wikimedia
From experience, danios are quite aggressive eaters and will dart up to the water’s surface to grab food that is given to them. They are not picky eaters and will gladly eat bloodworms, flake food, or pellets. Giant Danios especially have quite an appetite.
The water parameters range for each species but for the most part, they all range and do well in temperatures ranging 70 – 75 degrees Fahrenheit and pH levels ranging from 6.5 – 7.0. Some Danio species do quite well in temperatures as warm as 78 degrees Fahrenheit and pH as low as 6.0. Be sure to check what is right for the species you are interested in.
Final Thoughts
Danio fish are quite wonderful for new aquarium hobbyists and also fish keepers who are looking for movement in their aquarium. I prefer the smaller Danio species because they do not dominate the aquarium as much as the giant danio. These are peaceful fish and are perfect for a community aquarium but their active personalities and aggressive feeding behaviors may get in the way of other fish.
Celestial Pearl Danio by Gedanken.welten on wikimedia
July 14, 2020
Some Information on Black Neon Tetras
Black neon tetras are usually overshadowed by the more well-known Neon Tetra. These fish should catch the eye of aquarium keepers though. They may not have that vibrant blue and red coloring but instead have a black and white bar running down their body which is quite remarkable itself. These fish look fantastic in a well-planted aquarium. If you’re ever browsing through a fish store be sure to check them out!
Black Neon Tetra Requirements
Black neon tetras are much more hardy than neon tetras. They are more resilient to changing water parameters such as increased levels of nitrates and pH, but remember that not providing stable parameters can lower the health or possibly kill any fish over time.
These fish are quite easy to keep happy in an established aquarium. They are community fish and should be kept in a school of a minimum of six other black neon tetras. They have been seen schooling with other similarly shaped tetras so mixing may be a possibility. Black Neons max out at 1.5″ which is a little bit bigger than a neon tetra. They do well in an aquarium that is a minimum of 10 gallons.
Image by Debivort on wikimedia
The black neon tetra are not picky to food. They will happily eat flake food, pellets, and or frozen meaty food such bloodworms, brine shrimp, or Mysis Shrimp. They are omnivorous so providing a wide range of food is beneficial to their health. They will not eat live plants in an aquarium! Remember to only feed your fish enough so the food does not end up at the bottom of the aquarium. Uneaten food can become a big problem for an aquarium if left unchecked because it will raise the phosphate and nitrate levels.
Black neon tetras are best kept in water that is between 72 and 77 degrees Fahrenheit. They also do perfectly well in water with a pH between 5.5 and 7.0. They have quite a large range of water conditions they can live in so they will do well with many other tropical fish.
Final Thoughts
Black neon tetras are a great addition to most community tanks. They are peaceful, and small, but have a unique color pattern to them. They are quite abundant in the hobby and can be found at most pet stores. These fish are quite inexpensive as well, usually costing between $1.49 and $1.99.
Image by Juan R. Lascorz on wikimedia
July 13, 2020
Denison Barb – The Peaceful Barb
With the large variety of fish that can inhabit a fish tank, it can become overwhelming trying to decide the right ones to put inside to inhabit the enclosure. Especially when hearing about barbs (more specifically) tiger barbs have a reputation for being brutes and aggressive in an aquarium. There are more barbs that are also aggressive but there are some that are nice and gentle. Specifically, the Denison Barb.
Temperment & Size
Denison barbs sometimes known as Rose Line sharks look like a dominating force inside of an aquarium but they are one of the most beautiful and gentle animals you can keep. It is of course not recommended to keep them with little fish like neon tetras or ember tetras because they will become lunch, but they’re perfectly welcome in a community aquarium filled with larger peaceful fish.
Photo by Anandarajkumar at wikimedia
These fish love to be in larger groups preferably 5 or more fish. Also, do not forget to keep a good lid on your aquarium because these fish are known to be jumpers! Because of their love for being in groups and active personalities, I would not recommend putting this fish in anything smaller than 50 gallons of water.
The Denison Barb is different from your typical barb. This fish is far longer and more streamlined. They are normally found in fast-moving streams in the wild and appreciate higher oxygen levels in an aquarium. They also grow to be about 4 to 6 inches when they are full-grown.
Feeding & Aquarium Requirements
The Roseline Shark will happily take most foods and giving them a large variety of food only benefits them. They will gladly eat bloodworms, fish flakes, pellet food, and algae flakes/wafers/pellets. They are safe to keep with live plants and will not go out of their way to eat them! They’re omnivorous fish so giving them many options will keep them happy!
They enjoy an enclosure with a pH between 6.8 – 7.8 and temperatures ranging from 60 – 77 degrees Fahrenheit. They should be right at home with other tropical fish because for the most part, their water parameter needs are quite similar. Overall, they are quite easy to care for as long as they are introduced into an established aquarium.
Final Thoughts
Denison barbs are incredibly active fish and are insanely beautiful with their gray black and red coloring. They will make any aquarium seem more vibrant and bring new life to the setup. Keep them in nice groups and feed them a variety of food and they should be happy for quite some time!
Photo by Anandarajkumar at wikimedia
July 11, 2020
Tiger Barb – Friend or foe?
Tiger barbs are quite a gorgeous little fish. They have beautiful vibrant black, orange, and tan coloration! This is the perfect Halloween-themed fish. They’re also a wonderful centerpiece for many other aquariums because of the dominating presence of swimming in large shoals. Unfortunately, caution must be taken when keeping tiger barbs because they are fin nippers. Male tiger barbs are the primary nippers because they constantly battle with one another to assert dominance. They are considered semi-aggressive fish which may limit which fish they can be mixed with. This guide will try and give some useful information on helping tiger barbs thrive as well as help the fin-nipping problem in your aquarium.
Tiger Barb Requirements
Tiger barbs can grow to a size of about 4 inches long. A 30-gallon aquarium is the minimum requirement to keep a tiger barb happy, but anything larger is always appreciated. Setting up a larger aquarium for them will allow them to fade into the background and not be the dominating aspect of the fish tank.
Keep in mind that they are shoaling fish so they do best in groups of 6 or more. Anything smaller will cause them to be more aggressive than they already are. If they are in a large enough shoal they usually keep to themselves and do not bother fish of a different species.
It is perfectly fine keeping these fish in temperatures around 76 – 78 degrees Fahrenheit which allows them to be mixed with most other tropical fish. They also do wonderfully in a planted aquarium and are a great addition to one because they like slightly acidic water. Also, having a heavily planted aquarium will help create barriers and hiding places for other fish if the tiger barbs start becoming a little nippy.
These colorful fish are not very picky when it comes to eating! They are perfectly fine eating flake food, pellet food, blood worms, brine shrimp, and other foods that are introduced into the aquarium. They should normally be fed once a day.
Photo by ToT89 on Wikimedia.
Final Thoughts
Although there are quite a few ways to alleviate a tiger barb’s fin-nipping habit still take precautions if you want to add them to a community tank. To reiterate what was said before: Do not add less than 6 tiger barbs into an aquarium, be sure they are fed, and try to load up your aquarium with decorations to provide barriers and hiding spots. Remember, these barbs are used to fighting for dominance, it is in their nature, so add more tiger barbs and let them keep to their species and pick on one another. These fish should do quite well in a semi-aggressive aquarium but can be problematic in a peaceful, community tank. They’re wonderful to have because of their vibrant colors and active nature but also can become troublesome for new and even knowledgeable aquarists if precautions aren’t taken.
Photo by Faucon on wikimedia
July 8, 2020
Neon Tetras – The Schooling Fish
Neon Tetras are probably one of the most well-known freshwater fish in the hobby. Their vibrant colors pop and stand out from the green background of a planted aquarium. They’re straightforward to acquire and on the cheaper end regarding cost. They’re gorgeous little fish that love to be in schools. This article will provide general information for Neon Tetras.
Requirements
Neon tetras are small and stay that way. They max out at a size of around 1.25″. They are perfectly comfortable in an aquarium of 10 or more gallons. Having a large school for them is a requirement. They do not do well alone. A minimum of six neon tetras are recommended but even more, are preferred! They are not picky eaters, but small food must be considered that will fit into their mouths. They will happily eat micro pellets, flake food, or bloodworms. They can live in waters with a temperature between 68° and 78° Fahrenheit but do best at temperatures between 76° and 78° Fahrenheit. These fish are very peaceful and will not bother other fish in an aquarium. Having a well-established aquarium will help these little aquatic animals thrive!
Due to their smaller size and docile personality, these fish should be kept with other peaceful fish. It is not recommended at all to keep them with larger Cichlids, predatory fish, or aggressive fish. If they are, they will become a quick meal for the larger fish or be beaten up and pushed around by the aggressive fish. Other peaceful and smaller fish are the best neighbors for Neon Tetras.
Photo by Tan Meng Yoe on wikimedia commons
More Information
After working at a pet store for many years I noticed that many people would like Neon Tetras to be the first fish in their aquarium. From experience, this is usually a death sentence for this fish. Neon tetras are not hardy at all. They’re not expensive so it’s an attractive choice for a first fish. Many hobbyists use the first fish in the aquarium to jump-start their nitrogen cycle.
To quickly sum it up, a new aquarium cycles through three stages. An ammonia stage, a nitrite stage, and ends at the nitrate stage. Fish produce ammonia through their waste and it gets converted to nitrates by bacteria. At low levels, nitrates are less toxic to fish than ammonia and nitrites. The nitrogen cycle transitions through each stage which is very hard on neon tetras. Once, the aquarium runs through this cycle it is safer to introduce the neon tetras. There is plenty of fish that do much better through the cycle such as a smaller species of danio, red phantom tetra, Serpae Tetra, and many others. It is preferred to use a hardy fish for the nitrogen cycle.
Final Thoughts
Having a school of Neon Tetras weaving in-between plants, driftwood, and other decorations is a wonderful sight. They’re peaceful and easy to care for once in an established aquarium. Mixing them with other peaceful animals is wonderful and they will do well with shrimp and snails. If you’re looking for other blue colored fish for your fish tank, check out 11 Blue Freshwater Fish for Your Aquarium.
Photo by H. Krisp on wikimedia commons
June 29, 2020
Yellow Tangs For an Aquarium
Yellow tangs are a fairly common fish in the saltwater hobby. They fall under the category of surgeonfish due to their very sharp scalpel-like appendage right before their tail. They use this to fight other tangs or in self-defense against predators. Their vibrant yellow coloring makes them pop in any home aquarium. They’re very intelligent fish with a large assortment of personalities.
As herbivorous fish, yellow tangs spend their day grazing algae and seaweed in the wild. In the aquarium, there is normally not enough algae growing to sustain their grazing diet. As owners, it is necessary to feed and give the tang enough grazing material (algae sheets) to help keep it full and happy. This fish will happily feed on meaty foods as well but the bulk of its diet should be herbivorous. They can grow up to roughly 8″ and are very active swimmers. It is not recommended to keep them in an aquarium smaller than 100 gallons, and it is preferred to keep only one in an aquarium unless they are introduced together. They do become territorial and will fight other tangs. Their aggression will not only be between themselves and other yellow tangs but other tangs too. They will fight other fish that are very similar in shape and color to themselves. It is especially not recommended to mix yellow tangs with purple tangs or sailfin tangs due to their similarities in shape.
These gorgeous fish should only be added to an aquarium once it is well established. They should not be one of the first fish introduced into the aquarium. They are very prone to getting diseases such as marine ich so having a stable and well-established aquarium will help prevent them from getting infections.
Yellow tangs are reef safe and they should not bother coral. If algae are present in the aquarium, they may graze on the algae growing around the coral. Unfortunately, they will be more than happy to mow down any macro algae put into the aquarium so keep that in mind.
Yellow tangs are very wonderful fish to have in a home aquarium. They’re vibrant and stand out very well from the background and are always the center of attention for visitors. They’re highly intelligent and a pleasure to observe. The one in my aquarium always acts tough but runs into the rocks once my hand is in the aquarium for coral spot feeding. Learn about more saltwater fish by checking out other articles and care guides by following this link.
June 28, 2020
Ocellaris Clownfish for beginners
Clownfish Information
The ocellaris clownfish is one of the first fish saltwater hobbyists add to their aquarium. They’re hardy, easy to care for, and popular beyond belief but sometimes go by another name (Nemo). They can become territorial so if a hand is in the aquarium, don’t be surprised to feel a pinching bite from a clown.
There is a pretty common fact that some may not know. Clownfish are born male and the dominant one in the pair becomes the female. Another interesting bit of info is that female clowns become larger than males. If a female passes away, the male will pair with another female or find another male and will fight for dominance to become a female. If/when a male turns into a female it cannot transform back into a male. Only one pair of clowns is recommended for a fish tank. Any more and there will most likely be quite a bit of fighting which stresses the fish out or can cause harm to them. If one of the fish passes away, it is best to replace it with one of a similar size. For example, try not to introduce a 4″ clown with a 1.5″ clown and hope they pair.
Many new hobbyists begin their saltwater journey with the common ocellaris clown. Once experience is gained and saltwater aquarium knowledge grows, people find interest in the rarer species of clownfish. Such as snowflake clowns or black ocellaris. There are many other variants of ocellaris clowns to choose from. This guide was made to provide a complete care guide to keeping clownfish.
Aquarium Requirements
Ocellaris Clownfish can grow to a size of roughly three inches. It’s not recommended to keep clowns in aquariums smaller than 20 gallons, due to their length at adulthood. Clownfish have very similar water parameters to most other saltwater fish which are:
- Temperatures between 72 and 78 degrees Fahrenheit
- dKH levels between 8 and 12
- pH between 8.0 and 8.4
- Salinity levels between 1.020 and 1.025 sg.
Providing these water parameters is key to keeping a clown happy but keeping them stable is also important for their long-term health.
It is beneficial to provide live rock in the aquarium so your fish has places to hide when stressed. An anemone is a fantastic addition but it is not mandatory to have for your clownfish.
Anemone Hosting
Be aware that many tank-raised clownfish will not automatically go into an anemone and host In it. Sometimes it is quite tricky to get them to do so. There are a few things to try to get them to host in an anemone.
First, if the fish is already in the aquarium, place a video or image of clownfish swimming in anemones against the glass. This may give them the urge to try and do the same. They may see other clowns safely swimming through anemones and instinctively be drawn to them.
Second, if the anemone is in an established aquarium, and new clownfish are being introduced, try to put the netted clownfish into a translucent tube. Make sure the tube is wide enough so the clowns can safely travel through it. Also, be sure the end of the tube is almost touching the anemone. When the fish make their way down, it will force them to come into contact with the anemone which may cause them to host in it.

Third, give it time. Sometimes clownfish will naturally make it’s way to an anemone and host it. I have had them a host in many other things such as frogspawns, torch coral, and green star polyps. Clowns are oddballs but they figure it out eventually.

Lastly, it’s ok if the clowns don’t host in an anemone. It is remarkable to see them spend all day rubbing against the anemone’s tentacles, feeding it, and just doing their thing but if they are being very stubborn and won’t host, it is not worth stressing them out more than necessary.
Clownfish Food & Diet
They should readily eat any type of food offered such as flakes, pellets, or frozen food. Providing different types of food will assist in giving your fish a well-rounded diet! If for some reason your clownfish does not want to eat, try mixing your food with garlic or garlic extract. You can read about feeding garlic to your fish here.
Tank Mates
Clownfish do well with most saltwater fish but do not keep them with fish that will try to eat them such as eels, groupers, lionfish, and most other predatory fish. Instead, try to keep clownfish with more peaceful fish such as:
- Dwarf Angelfish
- Tang
- Gobies
- Chromis
- Wrasse
Most types of marine fish are compatible with clowns. Clownfish are also completely reef safe and will not bother coral or invertebrates! They may occasionally attempt to host euphyllia or other coral with tentacles.
Breeding Clownfish
If a bonded pair finds an aquarium suitable there is a chance of them laying eggs and producing offspring. Eggs are commonly eaten by other animals in the aquarium without human intervention. Clownfish will often breed in a display tank with no additional work required.
Building clownfish breeding tanks are pretty straightforward. Many breeders use a 10-gallon aquarium for a pair of clowns. Connect the breeding tank to a sump for filtration. The aquarium itself should be bare bottom with only a clay pot (3 – 5 inches) or pieces of clay tile. The sump should have a heater, protein skimmer, and live rock.
Keeping water parameters pristine is very important. Also, feed your clownfish a variety of foods at least twice a day to increase their body size to prepare them for breeding. Temperatures can sit around 78 to 80 degrees to motivate your clownfish to breed.
Egg Care
It will take roughly 6 to 8 days for your eggs to hatch! Before eggs hatch prepare live food to give them something to eat right after hatching. Feed live rotifers when eggs first hatch then baby brine shrimp after a few days of growth. Setting up a hatching tank will make it easier to care for your eggs and fry. Clownfish eggs will always hatch at night and require total darkness.
Set up your hatch tank with a heater, sponge filter, and air stone. Seed your sponge in the breeding tank a few weeks before putting it into the hatching tank. Also, be certain that the aquarium, heater, and air stone are cleaned well with hot water before setting up.
Place the aquarium in a dark location and completely cover all sides with black construction paper or anything that will block out the light. Cover the light that’s on the heater with black electrical tape. Provide a light but be sure to have it incredibly dim because too bright light can kill newly hatched fry.
Hatch Day
On hatch day, remove the eggs from the breeding tank and place them into the hatching tank. Before that, make sure the heater’s temperature is the same as the breeding tank. Keep your hatch tank light schedule the same as the breeding tank schedule.
Place the eggs into the breeding tank and adjust the air stone so that air is flowing over the eggs. This is crucial because eggs need movement to stay alive. A few hours after the lights go out, the eggs should hatch. A very dim flashlight can be used to check.
Begin feeding live rotifers many times a day and check the water parameters to make sure that ammonia, nitrates, and phosphates do not spike. Fry are very sensitive to water parameter changes so keeping things low and stable is important!
Final Notes
Clowns are very fun fish with unique personalities. They’re great as introductory fish into saltwater aquariums but also amazing animal companions in the long term. They can get territorial but the little nibbles are worth dealing with. If you’re looking to learn about other saltwater fish, check out the growing list of care guides for saltwater fish.
June 26, 2020
The Vastness of Aquatic Enclosures!
Aquarium Hobby at a Glance
There are many different types of aquarium-like enclosures a person can have in their home. They range in all sorts of sizes and levels of difficulty but they are all unique in their own way. From micro enclosures like jarrariums to enormous saltwater aquariums and ponds, there is a niche for everyone! We will broadly talk about many different enclosures for aquatic animals and the level of difficulty of maintaining these enclosures. We will also talk about basic designs and variety in setups.
Aquatic Jarrariums
One of the easiest and probably cheapest enclosures for aquatic critters is what is called a jarrarium. A jarrarium can be very simple but also very complex. There are two main types of jarrarium, open or closed. One requires the lid to remain open for oxygen to exchange with water, allowing you to feed the inhabitants, clean the glass, and change the water if it becomes overgrown with algae. The closed jarrarium is filled with inhabitants and sealed in hopes that it will become a self-sustaining system. If built correctly closed systems can be self-sustaining for a few years.
Eco-Sphere
The most important and expensive item needed for these types of setups is good glass containers that can hold water. For the most barebone jarrarium, a glass container is needed but the only additional material needed is a scoop of water and substrate from your local pond or lake. These water bodies usually are fully loaded with tiny critters such as dragonfly nymphs and snails. This type of jarrarium is called an eco-sphere. Once the water is scooped out, it’ll be quite murky in appearance, but give the loose substrate time to settle at the bottom of the container and it should clear up. Most people do not add any critters into an eco-sphere but instead observe what type of wildlife comes out of the substrate. Eco-spheres help give an insight into many different critters that are in a person’s local water systems. Many of these eco-spheres are short-lived but a great educational piece for kids and adults.
Open Jarrarium
A regular jarrarium usually consists of a soil part, a substrate part, and then the decor that is placed on top. This type of jarrarium usually takes a bit more planning. The use of live plants and mosses is almost a necessity to help intake nutrients in the water, help prevent algal blooms, and provide oxygen for the animals within. Also, live plants are far more beautiful than their plastic counterparts (in my opinion). The livestock is pretty limited for jarrariums. It is usually limited to shrimp, snails, and possibly a betta fish if the jar is large enough. Shrimp come in many gorgeous colors, varieties, and sizes but on the other hand, be careful with snails because some can infest your newly built jarrarium. The jarrarium placement is very important. Changing room temperatures can harm the critters in their enclosure. Most aquatic animals prefer stable water parameters, such as stable temperatures, otherwise, they can be stressed which can lead to death. The amount of light is also a factor to think about. Too much direct sunlight will cause algal blooms and also raise water temperatures and too little will cause your plants to wither away and die. Consider using an artificial light source such as a CFL light above the jarrarium.
In my opinion, jarrariums are a very fun, easy, and cheap way to get into the world of aquarium keeping. The cost could be as little as just needing to purchase a glass container, but it can still become a very diverse and unique ecosystem. Some jarrariums look like works of art and are gorgeous pieces of decor in a person’s home or office.
Freshwater
Next along the lines is freshwater keeping. There are hundreds of different types of freshwater systems a person can put together and it can get a little overwhelming to think about. Different critters require different pH levels, water temperatures, and so on. Also, thinking about live plants will determine the species of fish you can keep. In my opinion, the most important factor to determine the type of fish that can be kept together is the size of the aquarium, and once the size is determined, you can get into deciding what species of fish will be comfortable in that size of an enclosure. I have been in this hobby for ages and worked in the industry. It is terrible seeing fish brought into the store that has damaged or misshapen bodies because they were forced to live in an aquarium that was too small for them.
From experience, a fish won’t stop growing because of the size of the aquarium. The fish’s growth will be stunted and it will cause its overall health to decline. Anyway, once the aquarium size is chosen the next step is to decide on the fish and decor. To start, many choose the simple route of plastic plants and rocky decor which is perfectly fine, but others will decide on getting more in-depth and setting up an aquarium with live plants and mosses. Putting live plants into an aquarium opens up a new can of worms and potentially increases in difficulty of keeping the aquarium running successfully.
For ease and simplicity, many fish keepers begin their freshwater journey with fake plants, decor, substrate, hang on the back filter, and a simple LED light. This is the standard aquarium and the easiest route that can be taken. Once interest in the hobby continues, things can branch into more unique niches. Instead of a hang-on-the-back filter, maybe use a canister filter or no filter at all! Instead of a regular old light, a person can try using more intense lights that will give the ability to sustain plant life in the aquarium. The unique alterations that can be made are limitless but we will not be getting into the elaborate details in this article.
Paludariums
Paludariums are a little different from a standard aquarium. A paludarium has both a land mass and a water body inside of a glass box. This opens up many doors for hobbyists because now animals such as semi-terrestrial crabs, frogs, or other critters can be added into an enclosure. This type of setup requires a little more knowledge and work to put together. There is quite a bit of planning that must be done before creating a paludarium.
Unfortunately, the limited size of the paludariums does not allow for species mixing. For example, mixing fiddler crabs with fire-belly toads. There is a great chance they may become territorial in such a small space, see one another as potential food, or just compete for food within the enclosure. This could lead to stressful situations for the animals and possibly put them in dangerous situations.
There are many things to consider when setting up a paludarium such as: What animal will you be keeping? Do you want water filtration? Do you want a waterfall setup? How deep do you want the water body? How much landmass? What plants do you want to keep? What kind of fish? The questions go on and on, but I am trying to get your mind thinking of some of the considerations that need to be taken for a paludarium.
Setting up and keeping a paludarium running is more difficult than setting up a freshwater aquarium. It takes far more planning to get the design right and deciding what terrestrial and aquatic animals to put it can be a challenge.
Terrarium/Vivarium
Many people use these terms interchangeably but there is a difference between the two. A terrarium is designed to primarily raise plants and a vivarium is used to house an animal. A terrarium can have animals but it can just be a glass enclosure filled with unique and exotic plants. On the other hand, a vivarium is designed to house and recreate an animal’s habitat. Common animals that are placed in vivariums are Dart frogs, geckos, and frogs. Vivariums and terrariums do not have a water body to house fish and other aquatic animals but a vivarium may have a water dish for the critters to drink from. They can be microhabitats or enormous enclosures that fill a whole room’s wall. Terrariums and vivariums are easier to set up and maintain than a paludarium but are a little harder to keep than a freshwater aquarium.
Saltwater
There is a lot of intimidation for aquarists that are thinking of transitioning into keeping saltwater aquariums. I would not set up a saltwater aquarium as a beginner hobbyist. I would gain knowledge about a freshwater aquariums, dip my toes in live plants, and research saltwater aquarium setups and keeping. Once all that experience and knowledge is gained, only then would I consider setting up a saltwater aquarium. Keeping a saltwater aquarium is not that hard. Keeping it well is where the challenge is and the cost of setup and maintaining it is what scares many away. Try freshwater and if you enjoy fish keeping consider setting up a saltwater aquarium.
The two primary niches of keeping saltwater aquariums are reef tanks or fish only. Many who set up reef aquariums are doing it to end up growing coral in their aquarium. There are many critters in the saltwater hobby that are not compatible with reef aquariums. For example, pufferfish wholeheartedly love devouring hermits and snails that would normally be found in a reef. Parrot fish will graze down your stony coral with ease. There are starfish and urchins that will also destroy a reef system. These are just a few examples of incompatibilities between animals. Decide what fish you would like in your aquarium and that will determine whether a reef tank is good for you.
Fish Only Aquarium Setup
Fish-only aquariums will not have corals and may or may not do well with crustaceans. Predatory aquariums are usually why hobbyists do not build a reef aquariums. Common critters that are put into fish only systems are angelfish, lionfish, eels, pufferfish, parrotfish, wrasses, stingrays, and many more. This type of setup will need a large filter because of the dietary needs of most of the animals. A sump system is recommended with a very good protein skimmer. Usually predatory aquariums and fish only setups are large (125+ gallons). This is because many of your predatory fish get very large.
Reef Aquarium Setup
Reef aquariums are quite different. They need good lights for corals, they will have crustaceans, and they can be very small or very big. I would still recommend a sump system with a protein skimmer for reefs but I would also look into setting up a refugium in your sump for additional filtration. Larger systems are easier to maintain but there is quite a fondness for nano reefs as well.
There are many different types of coral which broaden the spectrum even more. SPS corals need pristine water conditions so are usually kept in an SPS reef aquarium, while other corals like zoas and leathers do need specific parameters and can be put into a mixed reef or a species-specific aquarium of their own.
There are hundreds of different reef-compatible fish and crustaceans. I will not be going into the details of this because there are so many. Think of the type of fish you would like and research what size fish tank it requires and whether it is reef safe. Also, check the temperament of the fish. Many are very peaceful but others will get territorial. These are the main parameters for these fish.
Saltwater aquariums will easily cost an aquarists hundreds to thousands of dollars to set up. Reef systems are especially costly due to the lighting needs and the addition of quite a bit of live rock. That is why making sure this hobby is for you is important before walking down this path. Saltwater aquariums are for hobbyists who know a thing or two about aquariums and understand how water systems work.
Ponds
Ponds are not as common in the hobby as the others. Many people do not have a yard large enough for a pond. Regardless, they are a great place to relax. The primary fish kept in a pond is a koi fish. They are very similar to goldfish but are usually longer and grow larger. Their colors are magnificent! Other animals that may naturally come around ponds are frogs and turtles.
Ponds also can have different plant matter growing in them. Lillies and floating water lettuce are two that come to mind that is quite commonly found in home ponds. They are a nice addition and provide cover for your fish from predators such as raccoons and herons. Also adding a little bit of green color never hurt.
There are many things to consider when setting up a pond. They can get quite expensive. Picking a location is important. More sunlight will lead to more algae growth in your pond but also too much shade may cause other plants from flourishing inside. During the initial setup, choosing a pond liner is very important. A durable liner may cost more at first but will hopefully prevent leaks from happening which will save you money and stress in the long run. A waterfall feature will add great aeration to the pond but a pond pump costs a lot of money! Think about other aerating fixtures to get oxygen into your system.
The following is more dependent on where you live. In the United States, the Midwest goes through four seasons. Pumps need to be shut off for the winter, koi need to be either taken inside or fattened up for the winter, springtime will lead to pond cleaning, and so on. The pond needs to be deep enough for fish to be kept in there through winter. These are obstacles that need to be overcome in the Midwest but it’s not as big of a problem in warm states like Florida or Arizona.
Ponds are wonderful! They are a great place just to cool down and enjoy nature in your backyard but they are quite difficult to maintain and can be costly. The chance of losing a fish to predators is unfortunate but it’s a risk that is taken by pond keepers due to its beauty! Quite a bit of research and preparation should be conducted before setting up a pond!
June 24, 2020