Tag: guide

  • Elephant Nose – Complete Care Guide

    Elephant Nose – Complete Care Guide

    Elephant Nose Information

    The Elephant Nose is a very unique fish that is sometimes forgotten about in this hobby. It’s easy to skip out on a fish that doesn’t have flashy colors and hides a good portion of the day. However, you should really look passed that and check out this oddball! The Elephant Nose is an oddly shaped fish with a part of it’s body that looks like an elephant’s trunk. It uses this trunk to look for food, for self defense and communication. Furthermore, this fish releases very weak electrical signals (like sonar) to help find food.

    Be patient with the Elephant Nose because they are incredibly shy and reclusive animals. They will often dart and hide into caves to avoid contact with humans. Overtime and with a lot of patience it should get more comfortable with you. It will grow to be about 9 inches in length when fully grown but will still find ways to hide from you.

    Aquarium Requirements

    Elephant Nose does best in aquariums that are 50 gallons or larger. Because of their length as adults, I would personally keep them in nothing smaller than a 75 gallon aquarium. They do great in planted aquariums filled with rocks and wood where they can hide to get away from the commotion of the aquarium. Many hobbyists will purchase a clear plastic tube to mimic a cave. This gives the Elephant Nose cover but still allows you to view it. This species of fish also does best with fine gravel over large stones or sand.

    Like with many other fish, I would recommend providing a cover or lid for the aquarium because this fish can potentially jump out of the aquarium. That not the most common escape artist but there’s always a possibility.

    Although it has a fairly decent range of water parameters that it can be kept in, the Elephant Nose should be kept in the following ranges:

    • Water Temperatures between 73° and 80° Fahrenheit
    • pH Levels between 6.5 and 7.0
    • KH levels between 0 and 10

    At the end of the day water stability is probably one of the most important aspects of an aquarium. Be very mindful of how stable your water is.

    Food & Diet

    Elephant Nose are carnivorous fish. As a result, you should provide frozen food such as bloodworms and Mysis shrimp. Furthermore they will love eating cut up earthworms as well as pellet and flake food. Only give brine shrimp as an occasional treat because it is not very rich in nutrients. I would recommend providing a variety of foods to give Elephant Nose a broad spectrum of nutrients.

    Tank Mates

    The Elephant Nose does well with larger and peaceful fish. They will not do well with fish that are smaller such as Neon Tetras, Harlequin Rasboras, Ember Tetras and many others. They will do great with fish such as:

    • Denison Barbs
    • Angelfish
    • Blood Parrots
    • Rainbowfish
    • Black/White Skirt Tetras

    All these fish are larger so should not become a snack for the Elephant Nose. They are also peaceful and should not harass the Elephant Nose. There are many other fish that will do well with this species, I only named a few to give some ideas.

    The Elephant Nose is not recommended to be kept with other fish that give off electrical currents. Specifically, it is not recommended to keep multiple Elephant Nose fish or Ghost Knifes with this. The electrical currents that these fish release will cause stress to the others. The battling electrical currents will over time lower the fish’s health which will cause it to die.

    Breeding

    Breeding Elephant Nose is incredibly difficult if not impossible in an aquarium setting. The fish is highly aggressive to another fish of the same species. The dominant fish will pick on the weaker one until the weaker of the two dies. On top of that, it is practically impossible to distinguish whether an Elephant Nose is male or female.

    Final Notes

    The Elephant Nose is an incredibly unique fish that can be kept in the aquarium keeping hobby. It is an amazing talking point and anyone interested should really look into getting one. The interesting shape and colorations of this fish will keep you enjoying every moment of owning it.

    Image by OpenCage on wikiMedia

  • Rope Fish – Complete Care Guide

    Rope Fish – Complete Care Guide

    Rope Fish Information

    Rope Fish are a very unique species of fish in the aquarium hobby. This fish has similar characteristics to eels but are instead more closely related to Bichirs. This freshwater fish has a interesting feature. It will gulp fresh air from the water’s surface using its modified swim bladder. Furthermore, Rope Fish are very curious fish with fantastic personalities, that is when you get to see them. They are nocturnal and will more than likely be more commonly seen moving at night. In the wild, they use the cover of night to hunt their prey. Although they lack great eyesight, they still manage to hunt and take down prey such as insects, amphibians and crustaceans. This guide will go over the many characteristics and needs of Rope Fish. I will discuss aquarium requirements, food & diet, compatible tank mates, and breeding habits of the Rope Fish.

    Aquarium Requirements

    Although Rope Fish are not “beefy” animals, they still should be kept in aquariums that are 50 gallons or larger because what they lack in width they make up for in length. Rope Fish can reach lengths larger than a foot. Furthermore, they are social animals and ideally should be kept with other Rope Fish. Similar to eels, Rope Fish are amazing escape artists so it is highly recommended to keep a good lid on the aquarium. They could find some pretty small holes to jump through.

    Rope Fish love to dwell in aquariums that are heavily planted, with many nooks and crannies for it to hide in. Besides plants, branching and regular driftwood should be provided for this fish to give it varying spaces to hide. They love to move along the substrate so keep in mind that the substrate should be easy to traverse. The best would be fine gravel or sand for parts of the aquarium. Rope Fish are often found in slow moving waters in the wild, so your aquarium’s water flow should be very gentle to replicate that.

    Since your Rope Fish loves to dwell in aquariums with plants, your water parameters should reflect that. They will do best in the following parameters:

    • Temperature between 72° and 82° Fahrenheit
    • pH Levels between 6.0 and 7.5
    • KH levels between 8 and 22

    They have a fairly large range that will keep them happy. With many if not all fish, keeping stable water parameters is key to keeping your fish healthy.

    Food & Diet

    Rope Fish are carnivorous animals and should be fed foods rich in proteins. When they are smaller, foods such as bloodworms and tubiflex worms are great choices. Once the Rope Fish grows, foods such as worms, crickets, other insect larvae and beef heart are excellent sources of protein for the Rope Fish. Live foods are beneficial for this fish but frozen bloodworms and beef heart can be purchased at most pet stores. Remember to thoroughly thaw the food before feeding your Rope Fish.

    Tank Mates

    Rope Fish are very peaceful animals. However, like most fish, they are also opportunistic. With this in mind Rope Fish should not be kept with anything that can fit into their mouths. I would not recommend keeping them with fish such as Cory Cats, Neon Tetras and anything with that similar size. They will do great with fish such as:

    • Denizon Barbs
    • Angelfish
    • Severums
    • Blood Parrots
    • Rainbowfish

    These fish are larger in size so they will not be mistaken for food by the Rope Fish. They also are fairly peaceful for fish their size. I would not recommend keeping Rope Fish with larger and more aggressive fish like Red Devil Cichlids, Jack Dempsey Cichlids, and many others. Lookup different fish species here to find out what could potentially be compatible with Rope Fish.

    Breeding

    I personally do not have experience breeding Rope Fish in a home aquarium. I also know that doing so is incredibly hard. Just like many other fish, first you will need a male and female for breeding. Your aquarium should mimic the Rope Fish’s natural habitat as well as possible. Once that is setup and ready to go, slowly increase the temperature of your water to re-create the breeding season for this fish. Once waters are warmed, you may get lucky and see the Rope Fish breed. If you see any eggs laid around the aquarium, I would suggest removing them from the parent’s aquarium and putting them in their own to hatch.

    Final Notes

    Rope Fish are incredibly unique looking animals. They’re very gentle, peaceful, and charismatic fish that could be fantastic additions to a niche aquarium. Provide them with proper care and you may have an aquatic friend that can live 15+ years!

    Image by Trougnouf on wikiMedia

  • 10 Gallon Freshwater Equipment List For Beginners

    10 Gallon Freshwater Equipment List For Beginners

    The 10 gallon aquarium is the starting point for many fish hobbyists. It’s a fish tank that will fit a handful of fish and also visually appealing without breaking the wallet. It’s the perfect size for smaller bedrooms, countertops and large enough where it should not be as challenging as smaller fish tanks. This guide will provide information on equipment and items needed to setup a 10 gallon aquarium. Each image has a link attached which will take you to the product’s sale page.

    Aquarium Glass

    First, we must start with the 10 gallon aquarium. For this guide, we chose the Aqueon 10 Gallon Aquarium with clear silicone. Aqueon is a great company and makes great fish tanks.

    Needing the aquarium is pretty self explanatory, we need it to hold the water and give your future fish a home! This aquarium is 14 x 23.75 x 16.5 inches.

    Filtration

    Filtration makes aquarium keeping a little bit easier by sucking up extra food and fish waste. There are two different types of filters we recommend for this type of setup. We recommend either using a hang on the back filter or a sponge filter. They both function differently and each have their ups and downs and we will give a little information about both.

    The Aquaclear 30 is our preferred filtration system for a small nano aquarium such as the 10 gallon. This hang on the back filter is quite easy to install and it provides mechanical, chemical and biological filtration.

    This filter achieves mechanical filtration using water flow and running it through filter pads or filter floss. It also reaches chemical filtration by running water through activated carbon. Lastly, biological filtration is present because beneficial bacteria forms colonies in the filter.. The Aquaclear filter is compact. Also, the majority of its housing is out of the aquarium which leaves more space inside for decorations and swimming space for fish. The flow is adjustable and the Aquaclear 30 is rated up to 30 gallon of water so perfect if you ever decide to upgrade.

    The sponge filter has the capability of reaching the mechanical and biological filtration but not the chemical. It is a big sponge and quite a bit of beneficial bacteria will find home in it.

    Besides lacking chemical filtration, the only other downside is that an aquarium air pump and air line tubing must be purchased with a sponge filter. The air pump sits out of the aquarium with a tube that goes into the fish tank and gets inserted into the sponge filter.

    Whichever is chosen is determined by personal preference. Both sponge filter and HOB filter will aid in keeping your nano tank clean.

    Heaters

    Our preference for heaters is the Fluval M50. It is rated for fish tanks up to 15 gallons and has an adjustable control dial which is convenient.

    This heater is fully submersible, wires and all. The only thing that should not be submerged of course is the outlet plug. It’s a sturdy heater and we personally have had great success in using this one.

    It also has a mirrored finish to help blend it to the environment surrounding it.

    Lighting

    A great budget light for your aquarium is the Finnex Planted+ 24/7 LED Light. This fixture will illuminate your nano aquarium with customizable & controllable green, red, blue, and daylights.

    Furthermore, the Finnex light fixture will give you the right amount of light to potentially grow plants in your 10 gallon fish tank. A remote is also included with the light fixture to program your lights to your needs. This light fixture can handle medium to high light demanding plants.

    An even bigger budget light fixture is the NICREW ClassicLED aquarium light. The NICREW light does not carry the same bells and whistles as the Finnex fixture but still can pack a punch for the price.

    This light fixture has a nice low profile and extendable legs but unfortunately does not have a controller to program the light for your desires. This light fixture should be able to handle medium to high light demanding plants.

    Final Notes

    Hopefully this guide will provide you enough information to setup the skeleton of your fish tank. There is still much to add such as gravel, decorations and things like fish food and extra filter media. For information on items needed for your fish tank take a look at our setup guide here. The guide will provide a good foothold to starting and setting up your fish tank.

  • Crested Gecko – Full Care Guide

    Crested Gecko – Full Care Guide

    Crested Gecko Information

    Crested geckos are a great introductory reptile for first time hobbyists. For reptile standards they are quite low maintenance and easy to care for. They are inexpensive for a reptile and also incredibly docile. They can be handled by their keeper but it’s not recommended until a month or two after introduction.

    A Crested Gecko can grow to a size between 7 to 9 inches as adults. They have a good chance of losing their tail in captivity but it is completely normal. The tail will not grow back and stay a small nub. The Crested Gecko can live anywhere between 15 to 20 years in captivity if conditions and health are optimal!

    Vivarium Requirements

    A single Crested Gecko or a pair of adults (1 male, 1 female) can be housed in a 20 gallon tank (18x18x18) but, larger habitats are always preferred. A Crested Gecko will prefer height over length for their enclosure. Its habitat should have a combination of vines, cork bark and standing driftwood to give it something to climb on!

    Fake and live plants are excellent to add into a Crested Gecko vivarium. Plants such as:

    • Pothos
    • Mother Fern
    • Nerve Plant
    • Shingle Plant
    • Mosses

    Are fantastic plants that bring a new life into a vivarium. Be certain that plants chosen are safe for Crested Geckos before purchasing. Also, plants purchased from stores like Walmart or Home Depot need thorough rinsing to remove any pesticides that may be present. Lastly, coco fiber substrate is great for your gecko.

    Keep your Crested Gecko in temperatures ranging between 74 and 78 degrees Fahrenheit. They do not require special lighting for their enclosure but keep in mind your live plants will. Use a digital thermometer and hygrometer to ensure the temperature and humidity levels are at the proper levels. Temperatures should be between 74 & 78 degrees Fahrenheit and humidity between 60 and 70%. Mist the vivarium to maintain the proper humidity.

    Lastly, a clean water dish should be provided in the vivarium so your gecko always has a source of water. Dehydration is a big problem for geckos especially when they are shedding their skin.

    Diet

    Crested Geckos eat a mixture of fruit and insects in the wild. Zoo Med Crested Gecko Food will provide a well rounded diet for your gecko. Feed juvenile Crested Geckos everyday and adults three times a week. Crickets & waxworms are excellent treats for your gecko and should be given once a week!

    Tank Mates

    A vivarium is normally setup to only house Crested Geckos. They do not fair well with other animals because of habitat requirements or territorial disputes. A single Crested Gecko will do fine in a vivarium. A pair of adults should do well in an appropriately sized enclosure. Do not keep more than one male in the same enclosure because they will fight for territory and dominance. Young Crested Geckos will show aggression towards each other so do not keep them in an enclosure together.

    Crested Gecko on Branch

    Breeding

    A pair of Crested Geckos have the possibility of breeding in an vivarium. Crested Geckos normally breed between March & September. Each offspring will need to be kept in its own enclosure. Breeders will sometimes use 6 quart plastic bins from Walmart or Target and modify them with small screens and holes for ventilation.

    The offspring’s enclosure should be easily cleaned and easy to break down. Use paper towels and old toilet paper rolls and clean out the enclosure weekly. Feed offspring daily and mist their small enclosure to maintain proper humidity levels. Place the offspring into their own 10+ gallon vivarium once they reach 10 grams in weight.

    Give time for the female to rest between breeding seasons by removing the male from the enclosure. This will give the female the opportunity to relax and regain some weight for the next breeding season.

    Final Notes

    Crested Geckos are one of the easiest and hardiest reptiles to keep in the hobby. They mostly care for themselves but with consistency & practice handling this reptile is a possibility. Lastly, really consider getting a Crested Gecko if you are looking into acquiring a reptile!

  • Fiddler Crab – Complete Care Guide

    Fiddler Crab – Complete Care Guide

    Fiddler Crabs are some of the more common crab species kept in captivity. The males have an incredibly large claw that they use for calling out to females and also for sparring. The female does not have a claw this large but instead has two really small ones. Under the proper conditions, the Fiddler Crab is a pretty hardy invertebrate.

    This beautiful invertebrate will grow to be roughly 2 inches in length when it is full size. This crab and many others are interesting to watch when they are searching for food in their habitat. The Fiddler Crab is not too picky when looking for a meal but we will go over that more later in this article.

    Aquarium Requirements

    Keeping Fiddler Crabs alive and thriving is not incredibly hard. They do not get incredibly large but enjoy living in groups. They should not be kept in anything smaller than a 10-gallon aquarium and it is not recommended to keep more than one male in an enclosure due to the high possibility of aggression between males. In the wild, they spend most of their time in inter-tidal flats or lagoons. Because of this, it is important to provide a land area for the crab because they are not fully aquatic crustaceans.

    Mimicking an ocean beach habitat is ideal for this crab. It normally lives in brackish water so providing a little bit of marine salt in its enclosure is ideal. Use a refractometer, like this one from Amazon to check the salinity levels in the water. To maximize the health of your crabs keep a filter, pump, or something similar to move the water around. Also, using aragonite sand to help keep increased pH levels is recommended. The crab will also use this substrate as a calcium supplement!

    The Fiddler Crab requires the following water parameters:

    • Water Temperatures 74­­°-84° degrees Fahrenheit
    • KH between 12 and 30
    • pH: 8.0 & 8.2
    • Salinity levels between 1.005 and 1.012 sg.

    The enclosure should also be full of rocks and other decor to provide places for this crab to climb and hide. Be sure to leave enough space to allow your Fiddler Crab to burrow. Crabs are notorious escape artists so a tight-fit lid is a must-have. The sealed aquarium will also help to keep humidity levels higher.

    Food & Diet

    Fiddler Crabs are omnivores and are not picky eaters. They will happily eat algae that grow in the aquarium’s waters but will also eat pellets, flakes, bloodworms, and small shrimp! It is important to provide them with a well-rounded diet. I feed mine all sorts of food. I will treat them to small pieces of carrots, apples, lettuce, pellet food, and flake food.

    Tank Mates

    Finding tank mates for Fiddler Crabs is hard because they enjoy being in brackish water and the design of the enclosure does not usually provide enough water for fish. If your setup has enough water, fish such as platys, mollies, swordtails, and guppies are good choices. They enjoy living in brackish water, unlike many other species. Be mindful that Fiddler Crabs will occasionally try to take a snag at the fish so the fish may become lunch for the crab. Nerite snails should be a fine addition to a brackish water enclosure as well.

    Other than that, as stated above, unless the enclosure is incredibly large only one male should be kept with an assortment of females. The males have a higher chance of fighting and possibly injuring/killing each other while sparring for females.

    Breeding

    Breeding Fidler Crabs is incredibly difficult. They require a deep sand bed so the female can burrow into it. Once mated, the female will stay in the burrow for roughly two weeks with her batch of eggs. Once that is completed she will expel the eggs into the water but it can only be successful if the water is marine water. This will require a higher salinity level. If this is possible the baby crabs need to be fed rotifers and live baby brine shrimp until they are large enough to eat different types of food. I have had a female successfully hold eggs, but nothing ever comes of it because I cannot replicate the requirements needed to get them to hatch.

    Final Notes

    Fiddler Crabs are an interesting and unique animal that can be kept at home, provided the enclosure is right for them They have beautiful colorations and a very cool shape to them. They’re fairly active and a joy to observe. Unfortunately, they require a very niche habitat that is not suitable for many other animals but if you can provide the correct setup for them, they will be wonderful pets. If you love crabs, but Fiddler Crabs are not for you, check out 9 Unique Terrestrial, Semi-Terrestrial, Brackish & Freshwater Crabs to learn about other types of crabs available!

    Featured image by Wilfredor on wikiMedia

  • Banggai Cardinal – Complete Care Guide

    Banggai Cardinal – Complete Care Guide

    Banggai Cardinalfish Information

    Banggai Cardinals also known as the Kaudern’s Cardinalfish are fairly common saltwater fish with a very unique body shape and color pattern. These hardy fish are usually some of the first fish purchased for a saltwater aquarium because they are fairly inexpensive and not too finicky. They will grow to be around 3 inches in length when they are fully grown but should be kept alone or in pairs when keeping them in smaller aquariums. This guide will go into detail about the needs of this fish.

    Aquarium Requirements

    Kaudern’s Cardinalfish do not require an incredible amount of space and a pair (male/female) will do well in saltwater fish tanks that are 30 gallons or larger. They may become aggressive if two males are kept together. It is possible to keep them in small groups when the aquarium is 100 gallons or larger but be mindful of potential aggression. The Banggai Cardinal has similar water parameter requirements to most other saltwater fish which are:

    • Temperatures (72-78 degrees Fahrenheit)
    • dKH levels between 8 and 12
    • salinity levels between 1.020 and 1.025 sg
    • pH levels between 8.1 and 8.4

    Just like most other fish in an aquarium, the Kaudern’s Cardinal prefers having quite a bit of live rock with holes and caves of varying size. This will give the fish spots to hide when it stressed and also a place to go when the lights are off. More hiding spaces will help settle some territorial disputes as well.

    Food & Diet

    The Banggai Cardinalfish is a carnivore so providing meaty food such as mysis shrimp is a must. There are many other feeding options such as, spirulina brine shrimp, pellet food and flake food. This fish may be a little picky when it comes to feeding on pellets and flakes so pay close attention to what the Banggai Cardinal eats.

    Tank Mates

    Banggai Cardinals are fairly peaceful and will primarily fight over territories with others of its species or similarly shaped fish like pajama cardinals. They are slow moving fish so sharing a tank with other peaceful fish is the best route to successfully keep this fish. They normally do well with:

    • Clownfish
    • Dwarf Angels
    • Anthias
    • Basslets
    • Blennies
    • Gobies
    • Tangs

    The Kaudern’s Cardinalfish is completely reef safe. It should not bother any coral or invertebrate in the aquarium. Also, like stated earlier, they will do well as a male and female pair in smaller fish tanks but should be fine in small groups when fish tanks become 100 gallons or larger.

    Breeding

    Banggai Cardinalfish are fairly easy to breed but some work must be done in order to keep the fry alive. To begin, a pair must be found in order to breed successfully. It is hard to find the sex of males and females because they look very similar. When hunting for a pair of cardinals, observe their behavior in the fish tank. In a group, the dominant male will push away any competition and spend a lot of time with one other fish, the female. Keep an eye out for that when looking for a pair.

    Once paired, keeping the male and female happy and fed will increase your chances of acquiring babies. Providing an urchin in the aquarium is not mandatory but it is beneficial to giving them the feeling of being in the wild.

    The male will hold the babies in his mouth so making sure the male is well fed before holding the brood in his mouth is very important. The male will not eat as it is holding the offspring. The female will be the primary defense for the male when he is in this vulnerable state.

    Once the fry leave the male they may spend their time in-between an urchin’s spines. They will most likely perish if there are other fish in the aquarium. Also, it is very important to have live baby brine shrimp ready to feed the offspring once they leave the males mouth. It is important to feed the babies multiple times a day.

    Final Notes

    Banggai Cardinalfish are very interesting and easy to care for fish. They may not be for everyone but they’re fantastic for anyone who loves their unique shape and color pattern. It is one of the few fish in the saltwater hobby that can quite easily breed in captivity and growing a brood to adulthood is always exciting!

  • Coral Banded Shrimp – Complete Care Guide

    Coral Banded Shrimp – Complete Care Guide

    Banded Shrimp Information

    The Coral Banded Shrimp sometimes called the boxing shrimp is a popular crustacean that is kept in saltwater aquariums due to their very interesting body shape and remarkable color patterns. This shrimp is commonly found with red, yellow and white colorations but there are other species that come in different variations of colors such as blue, yellow and gold.

    The male is normally smaller than a female at adulthood. When fully grown, The Coral Banded Shrimp will grow to be roughly 3 inches in length excluding its antennae. A few other species coral banded are a hair smaller and are roughly 2 inches in length when full sized. Coral Banded Shrimp can live about 2 to 3 years which allows for plenty of enjoyment for aquarium keepers!

    As far as crustaceans go, this shrimp is quite hardy but beware because, like any other invertebrate, it is very sensitive to high nitrate levels and copper.

    Aquarium Requirements

    A Coral Banded Shrimp should be kept in aquariums that are 30 gallons or larger. For a shrimp, they become quite large and require a bit more space for their unique bodies and antennae. Also, provide many different sized caves this shrimp can enter to keep the Coral Banded Shrimp comfortable.

    Just like many other marine fish and crustaceans the Coral Banded Shrimp does best with the following water parameters:

    • Temperature: 72 – 78 degrees Fahrenheit
    • dKH between 8 and 12
    • pH between 8.1 and 8.4
    • Salinity between 1.023 and 1.025 sg.

    Providing these water parameters should help keep your shrimp quite happy. A well fed shrimp and one that is living in proper aquarium water parameters will help its molt and growth.

    Food & Diet

    The Coral Banded Shrimp is both a scavenger as well as a hunter. This invertebrate is a carnivore and found searching the fish tank for food. It will hunt for tiny bristleworms, copeopods, parasites & dead tissue on fish. They do a great job as exterminators, removing pesky bristleworms so they do not overrun the fish tank.

    Image by Rickard Zerpe on wikiMedia

    In the home aquarium, this shrimp will happily accept any food that may come its way. It will eat flake food, pellets and meaty food. It is not a picky eater at all but more of an opportunist.

    Tank Mates

    These shrimp do quite well with most peaceful saltwater fish. Do not keep Coral Banded Shrimp with invertebrate eating animals and a few other types of creatures such as:

    • Groupers
    • Pufferfish
    • Lionfish
    • Eels
    • Triggers
    • Slow moving fish (mandarins, clown gobies)
    • Non Reef Safe Wrasses
    • Other Shrimp

    Coral Banded Shrimp are considered to be reef safe but can sometimes nip at coral. Normally if they are fed they shouldn’t bother picking at coral but there is always a slim chance they will. They should also be kept singularly unless a definite pair can be found.

    Breeding

    Breeding this shrimp is usually quite unsuccessful in an aquarium setting. To increase the possibility of successful breeding, a pair must be found first. Even then it is incredibly difficult or almost impossible to successfully breed them in captivity. Their larvae must be suspended in the water with their food which is hard due to pumps and water circulation propellers.

    Final Notes

    Coral Banded Shrimp are a interesting creature that can be kept in a home aquarium. They sometimes get a bad reputation for eating fish, shrimp or nipping at coral but regardless should be considered for a reef or peaceful fish tank.

    Image by Brian Jeffery Beggerly from S’pore on wikiMedia

  • Vampire Crab – Complete Care Guide

    Vampire Crab – Complete Care Guide

    Vampire Crab Summary

    Vampire crabs, sometimes called Purple Vampire Crabs, are vibrant and beautiful invertebrates that are fantastic for a paludarium. They are normally found in varying shades of purple, yellow and black. This semi-terrestrial crab does best surrounded by mosses and plants. The vampire crab spices up and creates a sense of mystery in a paludarium because they may not always be seen. This guide will provide complete care for a vampire crab.

    Crab Information

    The Vampire Crab will grow to be roughly two inches in length and has a life span of about 2 years. It won’t grow to incredibly large sizes. This is good because less space is needed to keep this social crab happy! They are normally peaceful with their own species but males may spar and fight when it is time to mate. Alleviate aggression by adding one male for every two females. This omnivorous species of crab is an excellent scavenger and will forage throughout the paludarium. It will also hunt from time to time so be mindful when keeping it with fish and shrimp.

    This crustacean primarily spends its time on land but will submerge itself in water from time to time. The vampire crab will usually molt while submerged and will often graze on algae while being underwater. Much of this activity may not be seen because the vampire crab is a nocturnal animal!

    The vampire crab is a remarkable escape artist. It can climb wires, plants, silicone on aquariums, and much more to reach the top of the aquarium and escape. It is important to keep the paludarium covered to prevent this.

    Aquarium Requirements

    5 gallons is the minimum tank size for Vampire crabs. Normally, one male and two females can be kept in an enclosure this small. They are social animals so having a single vampire crab isn’t recommended. A half dozen (2 males & 4 females), can be kept in a 10 gallon aquarium. Keeping a ratio of at least 1 male to 2 females is very important to help prevent males from fighting over females.

    The paludarium needs a well-fitted glass top to prevent your crabs from escaping. Having an enclosed habitat will also help keep humidity at a relatively high level which is something a vampire crab requires. They do best with humidity levels at 75% or higher.

    Image by u/Young-One23

    A Vampire Crab paludarium is best when filled with mosses, plants, and leaf litter. Moss, like this one from Amazon, retains water which will help increase humidity levels as well as provide a habitat for small insects your crab can consume. The plants will provide additional cover and help absorb excess nutrients in the soil. Your crab may also scavenge dead/dying foliage. Leaf litter provides cover for your crab to help keep it feeling safe. The enclosure should also have an 80/20 land to water ratio. The water should have temperatures ranging between 75 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit (24 – 28 degrees Celsius), pH levels between 7.5 and 8.0, and KH levels between 4 and 10 dKH. Consider getting a Freshwater Master Test Kit to test for nitrates, nitrites, pH, and ammonia.

    Lighting that is sufficient for live plants will work with vampire crabs. They do not need anything in particular because they are nocturnal. Plants that you can keep with Dart Frogs should be great plants for Vampire Crabs. You should install a sponge filter or submersible filter in a crab tank.

    Food & Diet

    Vampire Crabs spend much of their time scavenging and foraging for food in the paludarium but, it’s important to provide them with a well-rounded diet. Because they are omnivorous giving them both vegetative and food high in protein is a must.

    Besides algae and plant matter in the paludarium, vampire crabs can be fed algae pellets, algae flakes, and vegetables to help provide them with proper nutrition. To help supplement their protein requirements foods such as bloodworms, brine shrimp, live fruit flies, crickets, and protein rich pellets can be given. Be mindful that live fruit flies and crickets can escape and get around your home. Supplement food with reptile safe calcium powder, like Zoo Med Reptile Calcium or place small cuttlebone pieces in the paludarium to provide additional calcium for your crabs.

    Tank Mates

    Vampire crabs are great with other vampire crabs. They may become territorial and fight with other species of crab such as Red Devil Crabs & Fiddler Crabs. Do not keep them with reptiles and amphibians. The reptile/amphibian will get picked on or the vampire crabs may get eaten. Very small fish and shrimp may also become an appetizing snack for vampire crabs if you have enough water space to house fish.

    Fish that are similar in size to the crab should do fine in the same enclosure. Shrimp should be fine overall but may disappear due to their size. A tough shell will keep snails protected from crabs. Vampire crabs will try eating snails if they flip over. Bare in mind that vampire crab are opportunistic hunters and if they get a chance to acquire a meal, they will take it!

    Breeding Vampire Crabs

    There is not enough information to know how to properly breed vampire crabs. They normally accomplish this on their own if conditions are right in the paludarium. Once a male and female breed the female will carry around between 20 & 80 eggs on her body for roughly a month. Once the eggs hatch the babies go straight to work foraging and independently living in the enclosure.

    Take the young vampire crabs out of the enclosure to prevent their parents and other crabs from eating them. Some may survive by hiding within plant matter and between rocks but many may perish to cannibalistic tanks mates.

    Vampire Crab Molting

    Vampire Crabs will molt roughly once a month. Molting occurs when a crab outgrows its exoskeleton. The crab will essentially “pop” out of its old skeleton and develop a new one. A molting vampire crab is incredibly vulnerable because right after a molt, the skin is becomes incredibly soft and fleshy. It takes time for the skeleton to harden. During this time, you should take care to avoid disturbing your Vampire Crab because the molting process is very stressful. They will likely hide throughout their molt and may not be seen for a few days. Providing plenty of hiding spots will help prevent other crabs from disturbing the molting Vampire Crab.

    Final Notes

    Vampire Crabs are incredible animals that continue to grow in popularity. They are not incredibly hard to keep and are a great pet for someone who does not need to see them all the time. They will spend a majority of their time independently foraging for food and with proper supplementation and a beautiful paludarium, the vampire crab can thrive in your home! If you are looking for a terrestrial crab species, take a look at the Halloween Moon Crab. Check out more guides on fish, plants, and inverts on atparium.com!

    Images by u/Young-One23

  • Snowflake Eel – Complete Care Guide

    Snowflake Eel – Complete Care Guide

    Snowflake Eels (Echidna nebulosa) otherwise known as Starry Moray or Snowflake Moray Eel, are interesting animals kept in aquariums. They are commonly found in predatory tanks but are occasionally added into reef tanks! This guide will give insight on Snowflake Eel aquarium requirements, feeding, and other information for anyone interested in this fish.

    Fish Information

    Snowflake Eels are incredibly easy to care for. They are very hardy and an excellent introductory eel for new hobbyists. They are considered semi-aggressive and are nocturnal predators usually hunting and ambushing crustaceans such as shrimp and crabs. In an aquarium, it is common to see them poke their heads out of rocks during feedings. They use two sets of jaws to grab prey and drag it down into their gullet during feeding. Be cautious when keeping this fish in a reef tank because it consumes crustaceans. It may knock corals over since it stays inside and very close to live rock. The Snowflake Eel will be roughly 2 feet (60cm) in length when it is grown in captivity. It is possible for them to be larger in the wild.

    Aquarium Requirements

    When fully sized, the Snowflake Eel should be kept in fish tanks that are 50 gallons or larger. A well covered top is needed because this fish is known to be one of the best escape artists. Because of its size and temperament, the eel should have quite a bit of live rock with varying hole sizes. This will give it room to move around, hide when threatened, and provide similar habitat it experience in the wild.

    Snowflake Eels do best in water temperatures ranging from 72 – 78 degrees Fahrenheit, dKH levels between 8 and 12, pH levels ranging between 8.1 and 8.4 and lastly salinity levels between 1.020 and 1.025 sg. As stated before, they are quite hardy and have a nice range of water parameters they can tolerate.

    Food & Diet

    Snowflake Eels are carnivorous animals and require a nice range of foods. There is a wide variety of food that it can eat such as:

    A Snowflake Eel can also be handfed but caution must be taken because they can give a powerful bite! It is best to start handfeeding when the moray is small to minimize risk of getting bitten or at least to receive a smaller bite. It is a predator so it may mistaken your fingers for a quick snack!

    Tank Mates

    The Snowflake Moray Eel can be kept with fish that are larger in size and that won’t easily fit into the eel’s mouth. They should do fine with coral, snails, anemones and sea urchins, but not crustaceans such as crabs, lobsters and shrimp. Keep in mind that this species of eel will become quite large so fish that are larger than its mouth at first, may not be in the future.

    Eels are commonly kept in larger aquariums with bigger and sometimes more aggressive fish. They are commonly kept with tangs, large angelfish, lionfish, foxface, groupers and large wrasses.

    It is possible to keep 2 Snowflake Eels in a marine tank together. The eels should be introduced at the same time and they should also be similar in size. Snowflake Eels are cannibals and if the opportunity to eat a much smaller eel arises, it will do so! I would personally not keep 2 Snowflake Eels in a fish tank together unless it is 150 gallons or larger. They are quite territorial and larger aquariums will give them more room to create their own territory.

    Breeding

    Breeding Snowflake Eels has not really been conducted in captivity because of their mating rituals, inability to distinguish between male and female, and rarity in acquiring a mating pair.

    Final Comments

    Snowflake Eels are a fantastic fish for a saltwater aquarium. They all have very unique personalities and are quite active moving within the live rock scaping of your aquarium. Be mindful of the fact that eels are escape artists and if a well sealed lid is not provided there is a high possibility of them jumping out!

    Image by Michael Bentley on wikiMedia

  • Chili Rasbora – Full Care Guide

    Chili Rasbora – Full Care Guide

    The Chili Rasbora (Boraras brigittae), sometimes called the Mosquito Rasbora, is a incredibly small fish, with vibrant colors, that enjoy schooling in large groups. Originally found in Indonesia, it has swept through the aquarium hobby and is loved by many fish keepers. Primarily red and orange in color, this little fish strikingly pops in well planted aquariums. This guide will provide information on Chili Rasbora care and breeding habits.

    Fish Information

    Chilli Rasbora do not get larger than .8 inches (2 cm). It is the perfect fish for aquariums that are 5 gallons or larger. A school should contain 6 individual fish or more. 6 to 10 Chili Rasbora should do well in a 5 gallon fish tank. Although the Chili Rasbora remains incredibly small, its colorful body and habit of schooling create beautiful movement and liveliness in a densely planted aquarium.

    Like many other rasbora species, this one primarily spends its time in the middle and top of the aquarium. It will occasionally swim at the bottom of the fish tank.

    Aquarium Requirements

    The Chili Rasbora is a tropical fish that does well in a large temperature range. It can survive in water temperatures between 68 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit, but 75 and 78 degrees Fahrenheit is the ideal range where it will thrive. It enjoys KH levels between 3 and 12 dKH and lastly does great in acidic water that has pH levels ranging between 4.0 and 7.0.

    This species of fish suffers terribly in new aquariums so only add them into already well established fish tanks. Once introduced and settled, they are quite hardy.

    Because of its small size, keep this fish in slow moving waters. They will be thrown around the aquarium when caught in fast moving currents. Providing many live plants and great filtration is ideal for this fish.

    Food & Diet

    The Chili Rasbora is small and remains small its whole life. It is very important to feed it food that it will be able to fit into its mouth. There are many options to offer this fish to provide it with a varied diet. Flake food can be taken and crushed into powder which makes it small enough for this fish to consume. Micropellets can be fed with little problems because they are designed for tiny fish like Chili Rasbora. Also, feeding daphnia, brine shrimp, and cutting up bloodworms are fantastic options to give this fish a varied diet. Providing many different food options will keep this fish vibrant and healthy.

    Tank Mates

    Chili Rasbora are easily outcompeted for food. Take pre-caution when choosing tank mates. The Chili Rasbora do exceptionally well with other small and peaceful fish in the aquarium. Do not keep them with larger or more dominate fish such as:

    • Platys
    • Mollies
    • Swordtails
    • Betta Fish
    • Angelfish
    • Large Mouthed Fish (Cichlids, Goldfish)

    Keeping Chili Rasbora in larger fish tanks is more than possible. They will thrive with fantastic fish such as:

    • Tetras (ember, neon, cardinal, green neon)
    • Rasboras (harlequin, green kubotai)
    • Endler’s Livebearers
    • Guppies
    • Celestial Pearl Danios
    • Corycats
    • Dwarf Gouramis

    The amount of fish that can be kept in an aquarium are determined by the number of plants in the fish tank, filtration, and physical size of the aquarium. A densely planted aquarium will be able to keep more fish happy over a sparsely planted one. A stronger and better filter will go a long way in allowing you to keep more fish in the enclosure. Larger aquariums aid in keeping water parameters stable when a fish tank is heavily populated. Regardless, do not cram too many fish in a fish tank.

    Shrimp and snails should do perfectly fine with Chili Rasboras even in 5 gallon aquariums. In fish tanks this small it is important to closely monitor water parameters because they are more prone to swinging which can be detrimental to both fish and invertebrates.

    Breeding

    Chili Rasbora will openly breed and produce offspring in aquariums. The males may become a bit more territorial during breeding periods and will also deepen its red and black coloring. After successfully breeding a female will appear rounder than the male and not pregnant females.

    Eggs will be laid on plants and decorations and will not be cared for by either parent. The best chance for survival for the fry are in heavily planted aquariums. The plants will provide the much needed cover the fry will need to reach adulthood. The parents are sometimes observed to eat the fry once they hatch from their egg.

    Final Comments

    The Chili Rasbora is fantastic for aquariums both large and small but fill the micro aquarium niche very well for keepers that do not have the space or money to spend on large aquariums. Their vibrant colors stand out in aquariums so they will always be able to be observed. Check them out if you get a chance!

    Image by JoKrimmel on wikimedia

  • Common Causes of Algae Blooms in Freshwater Aquariums

    Common Causes of Algae Blooms in Freshwater Aquariums

    Freshwater aquariums are usually the first step for anyone entering the fish-keeping hobby. It is quite rewarding setting up an aquarium and watching it thrive. Unfortunately, sometimes things don’t go our way and the fish tank experiences a rise in algae growth. This guide will talk about common reasons why algae overtake your aquarium and some remedies for it. Besides changing out carbon, this guide will help teach algae management without using chemicals.

    High Nutrient Levels

    One of the first things to do when trying to figure out why there algae is taking over your aquarium is to test your water parameters. Assuming this is an established aquarium, we will primarily be testing for phosphates and nitrates. I would recommend using API’s Freshwater Master Test Kit for nitrates and other parameters and API’s Phosphate Test Kit for phosphates.

    High levels of nitrates and phosphates can cause algae to grow out of control and it can become dangerous for fish as well. To remedy high levels of nutrients in your water there are a few things that can be done.

    First, make sure you are not over-feeding your fish. If you see food reaching the substrate, you are most likely overfeeding your fish. I normally feed my fish once a day and rarely twice a day.

    Second, to remove the nutrients out of your aquarium we will be required to do water changes. If your nitrate levels and phosphate levels are very high, I would recommend doing smaller water changes over a longer period of time. This will help prevent your system from going into shock. Instead of doing a 25% water change in one day, do 10% or less every other day until your water parameters stabilize. Doing so will hopefully gradually drop your nitrate and phosphate levels.

    Make sure your filter media is also renewed. It is normally recommended to change out activated carbon once a month or (if applicable) Chemi-Pure every 3 months. All this will help lower your nutrient levels to help prevent algae growth.

    Cut Down on Lighting

    Too much light can also be a big problem in aquariums. I would not recommend more than 8 hours of lighting per day in a freshwater aquarium. If there is an algae problem and your water parameters are not the problem, lighting might be the cause of the algae growth. When setting up your fish tank, it should be far away from windows to prevent sunlight from reaching the aquarium. Too much natural and artificial light will cause algae to flourish!

    Cut your light schedule to 6 hours for a few days to see if that changes anything. The fish won’t be bothered by the change in lighting so don’t worry about that. Keep an eye on any live plants that may be growing in the aquarium. I would recommend testing water parameters before trying this.

    Not Enough Cleanup Crew to Manage

    Another problem freshwater aquariums have is not having enough clean-up crew to combat the naturally growing algae and eventually, it overwhelms the system.

    As long as your water parameters are stable and at a healthy level you can counteract the algae that will eventually grow in your aquarium by adding snails, shrimp, and plecos. For large amounts of algae, plecos are usually the go-to due to their size and eating habits compared to a snail. Unless a freshwater predatory tank is being kept, it is recommended to have all three types of algae grazers. In a predatory setting, plecos are usually kept and will most likely not be eaten.

    Image by Soulkeeper on Wikimedia

    For smaller aquariums, a clown pleco or a handful of Ottocinclus are usually the preferred species, and in larger aquariums Bristlenose Plecos are commonly used. Bear in mind common plecos can get to be about 2 feet in length!

    I normally recommend Mystery Snails or Nerite Snails. Nerite Snails will not be able to successfully reproduce in freshwater so they are the perfect choice if you are afraid of a potential snail infestation.

    For heavy-duty algae grazing Amano Shrimp are a great choice due to their size but many hobbyists add smaller shrimp such as the cherry shrimp due to their wonderful coloring. Many shrimp are required to help combat algae blooms.

    Bare in mind that in order to successfully keep invertebrates such as shrimp and snails, your water parameters should be quite stable. Inverts are very sensitive to fluctuations in water parameters.

    Final Thoughts

    High nutrient levels, overfeeding, too much lighting, and not enough algae eaters are a few very common reasons why algae can take over an aquarium. One could be the root of the problem, or a combination can be causing algae to thrive. Chemicals will only band-aid the problem, it is important to get to the source of the problem and correct it. Only use chemicals to remove algae as a last resort! Hopefully, this guide has helped point you in the right direction to removing algae. Take a look at 8 Great Ways to Help Remove Hair Algae to learn of some tips and tricks on how to get algae from thriving in your aquarium.

  • Wonders of GloFish

    Wonders of GloFish

    GloFish are genetically modified fish that have found their way into the aquarium hobby. The original goal was to modify the fish’s gene so its florescence sparks up when it comes in contact with pollutants in water systems. The fish ended up in the aquarium business and now GloFish can be purchased for your aquarium!

    Types of GloFish

    At the time of this writing, four different species of fish have a pronounced fluorescent gene: Zebra Danio, White skirt Tetra, Tiger Barb, and Red-Tailed Shark. These fish come in a variety of colors and can be found at most pet stores.

    GloFish can be added to a normal aquarium or be in their own “GloFish tank.” I think the effect of their florescence is much cooler in their fish tank. The brightly colored fish, decorations that glow under blue light, and black gravel are a great combination for a GloFish Setup. Keep in mind that research should be conducted on the requirements of each fish before purchase. For example, the Zebra Danio and White Skirt Tetra Glofish are peaceful and perfect for a community tank but the Tiger Barb and Red-Tailed Shark GloFish are considered semi-aggressive and should be in a larger aquarium with different types of fish that can handle aggression.

    GloFish Aquarium Setup Requirements

    For the most part GloFish aquariums can be setup like any old fish tank. They will need gravel, decorations, heaters, a filter and light. As mentioned before, if setting up a GloFish specific aquarium, it is recommended to have decorations that will glow under a blue light. They will add an “out of this world” feeling. LED lights that have a blue light setting are perfect for this type of aquarium build. The blue light is what will give the fish their glow. Other than the lighting and decorations, you would setup a GloFish tank like any other freshwater aquarium. Most keepers do not add live plants because they do not do well under blue lighting. For more information on how to setup a freshwater aquarium, check out this guide.

    Maintenance & Feeding

    GloFish are kept almost like any other fish. The main difference is the lighting that is used to enjoy them. Feeding should be just like any aquarium fish. They should be fed once or twice a day and should be given a variety of food such as pellet food, flakes, and frozen meats.

    Maintenance should also be similar to a normal aquarium. A gravel vacuum should be used to siphon the gravel and about 10% of the water should be replaced weekly to keep the water refreshed and to remove nitrates and phosphates. Having a freshwater test kit handy and testing the water will help guide you to proper aquarium care.

    Final Thoughts

    Every aquarium is unique and GloFish aquariums are a new branch of the hobby with a very quirky style to them. The fish themselves have been around for years and the company behind them keeps adding more fish species and colors for consumers to enjoy.

  • Wonders of Bearded Dragons

    Wonders of Bearded Dragons

    Bearded dragons are one of the most iconic reptiles that are kept as pets. For the most part they are pretty easy to take care of, have incredibly docile personalities, and are very fun to handle. These wonderful creatures come from Australia and can live up to about 14 years and this guide has been created to inform potential beardie keepers on how to properly keep a bearded dragon at home.

    Enclosure Requirements

    A 40 breeder (36″ x 18″ x 18″) is a great size for a beardie until it grows over 12″ long. Once it exceeds a foot in length it is recommended to upgrade its habitat to a 120 gallon enclosure (48″ x 24″ x 24″). This will provide plenty of room for your companion. Bearded dragons should have an area to bask and an area to cool down. The basking location should average between 90 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit throughout the day. On the other hand the cool down location should be around 80 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Reptiles are cold blooded animals so they cannot regulate their body temperature. This requires for them to have warm and cool areas in the enclosure. The lights can be shut off during the night and the temperature can safely decrease to around 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperature and humidity gauges should be present in both warm and cool parts of the enclosure. The humidity should roughly be between 30 and 40 percent. Supplemental heat emitters should be provided if temperatures in the enclosure fall below 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Bearded dragons should receive enough UVA from the basking light but they will require another light fixture that gives off UVB lighting. UVB is needed in order for a bearded dragon to be able to produce Vitamin D. A wire mesh covering for the enclosure is required because UVB does not penetrate through glass. This dual fixture is great for this type of enclosure and it comes included with both a UVB bulb and basking light.

    There are different substrate types that can be used for a bearded dragon enclosure. There is sand matting that can be placed at the bottom of the enclosure. It is like a carpet that can be removed and easily cleaned so it is recommended to have two on hand to swap out and clean. It is also the safest type of bottom for the enclosure because it cannot be ingested. There is sand that can be used as substrate as well. Some people are against sand due to possible impaction and accidental ingestion. This substrate helps imitate a bearded dragon’s natural habitat and may help motivate it to burrow. If sand is purchased, it is a great idea to also purchase a scooper to pick up some fresh poop. The sand substrate is recommended to be replaced every at least every three months. Each substrate has its own perks and downfalls. Some are more ascetically pleasing while others have better reliability.

    Decorations can include an assortment of rocks, driftwood and anything for them to lounge on. A nice piece of driftwood is great to put under the basking lamp because it does a great job to hold heat which will help keep your beardie warm!

    Feeding Time

    Bearded dragons do not really require a water dish to be present in their enclosure. They acquire all of their fluids from food. Their diet will primarily consist of live food such as: crickets and meal worms, vegetables, and very sparsely fed fruit. Some people shy away from keeping bearded dragons because they do not want to drive to acquire crickets or they just do not like insects in general.

    Crickets should be fed everyday and be appropriately sized to fit into the mouth of a bearded dragon. The size of the cricket should not be bigger than the area in between the eyes of your bearded dragon. They should also be dusted with a calcium supplement at least twice a week to ensure your new reptile companion acquires the necessary supplements to help build a strong bone system. An improper enclosure and not enough supplements could lead your animal to become diseased. A common disease that reptiles can acquire the metabolic bone disease. Also, pay attention to how many crickets stay in the enclosure because they can irritate and stress your animal companion if not eaten. Mealworms should only be given to your bearded dragon as a treat.

    Bearded dragons should be fed veggies such as kale and broccoli to help give them important nutrients and a more varied diet. Veggies should be fed daily. It is recommended to give youngsters veggies first and then once they eat their veggies to feed them their crickets. Just like little kids, baby bearded dragons prefer not to eat veggies. An assortment of collard greens and mustard greens should be given to your bearded dragon. Do not feed your new pet avocado, rhubarb because it is toxic to the animal and avoid lettuce because it does not provide any nutritional value and can lead to diarrhea.

    Fruits can be fed to your bearded dragon very sparsely. More or less once or twice a month as a treat for being a great pet! The main fruits to feed beardies are mango and papaya. Strawberries, peaches, raspberries and watermelon are great to feed occasionally, but stay away from feeding them fruit with a lot of citrus.

    Bearded dragon handling

    Bearded dragons in general are quite easy to tame. Their very docile nature makes them quite a good pet for younger children or anyone who is new to keeping a reptile. They’re a wonderful introductory pet. The little ones can be squirmy, especially to a new keeper but with training and patience they will become like a dog with scales. I have heard many stories of bearded dragon keepers keeping their pets on their chest while sitting on the couch watching TV, or letting the bearded dragon cling onto their shirt while walking around the house. I have seen them nip but it doesn’t hurt and it usually happens when they think they’re getting fed and they mistaken your finger for lunch. Otherwise, they’re a very mellow animal.

    Final Thoughts

    With proper care and husbandry, bearded dragons can be a great pet for kids and adults alike. They’re very docile and usually just hang around. With proper training and a great diet they can be wonderful companions to anyone. Acquiring and feeding them live crickets is a turn off but other than that they’re a sweet reptilian pet!

  • Setting Up a Simple Freshwater Aquarium

    Setting Up a Simple Freshwater Aquarium

    This guide will help brand-new aquarists set up their first freshwater aquarium. This article is relevant for aquariums that are 10 – 30 gallons in size. Aquariums come in all shapes and sizes, with different decorations, plants, filtration systems, and more. This will be a very basic setup guide to help new fish keepers get started. We will cover the steps needed for the actual setup and equipment that can be used for the aquarium.

    Equipment Needed

    To begin, the main equipment needed to keep an aquatic system running are the glass enclosure, heater, filter, and light. These are must-haves, especially if you are just starting. An air pump adds more oxygen but it should not be necessary for this type of setup because the filter will provide enough oxygen for fish to thrive.

    • A submersible heater, like the Aqueon Pro Series Heater, is an excellent option for heating your aquarium because it is made by a very popular brand and is built incredibly well. If you’re not interested in the Aqueon Pro Series Heater, check out some of the Best Submersible Heaters for Freshwater and saltwater Aquariums.
    • A hang-on-the-back filter, such as the Aquaclear Series (power filter) is also a great choice for a filtration system because it allows for chemical, mechanical, and biological filtration. You can check out other Hang-on-back Filters by following the link.
    • LED lights, such as the NICREW ClassLED Aquarium Lights are a good budget light that will open the door for aquatic plants in the future. They provide great lighting, usually last years, and don’t use too much electricity. Make sure the size of the LED light matches the length of your fish tank.

    Decorating & Jump Starting Your Aquarium

    Having a nice gravel bed is a great way to make your fish tank pop! I prefer dark gravel, like this one on Amazon, because that will make the colors of the fish tank stand out more. For first-time aquarists, I usually recommend black aquarium gravel. Just remember to rinse the gravel before putting it into your fish tank. Do not use soap, just water. Adding 1 lb. of gravel for every gallon of water will create a nice deep gravel bed, adding a nice look to an aquarium. However, it’s not necessary to add that much.

    Purchasing decorations is a great idea! There are many different types of decorations such as plastic plants, driftwood, pirate ships, and so on. If you enjoy Halloween, take a look at some Halloween-inspired aquarium decorations. The types of decorations are limitless. I recommend Easy to Care for Live Plants and driftwood to give a natural look, but to each their own.

    A few other things needed for a new aquarium are an API Freshwater Master Test Kit, water conditioner, gravel vacuum, net, and fish food (flake food and pellets), and glass cleaner (sponge or magnetic).

    Setup Process

    The setup process is the fun part of it all. Once you have all your tools and equipment, it’s time to finally put together your new aquarium. I will continue by discussing aquarium placement and decoration recommendations below.

    Aquarium Placement

    Once everything is purchased and ready to go it is time to start setting up the aquarium. Find a location in the house away from windows and air/heating vents. Windows provide more sunlight than needed which will cause algal blooms to occur and air/heating vents may cause temperature fluctuations in the aquarium which is not desirable.

    Adding Gravel & Water

    Gravel and decorations should be rinsed before placing into the enclosure. Once that is done begin by gently putting the gravel at the bottom of the aquarium. Place the water into a bucket and add water conditioner to remove chlorine from it. Usually, 1 drop of water conditioner is added per gallon of water but it may vary so double-check the instructions on the bottle you are using. The water temperature does not matter so much right now but try to eyeball the temperature to be around 74° – 78° Fahrenheit. Fish will not be added yet so an exact temperature isn’t necessary. Repeat these steps until the aquarium is roughly 50 – 75% full and begin adding the decorations.

    Placing Decorations, Equipment & Final Touches

    Push the base of the decorations to the bottom of the gravel bed. This will give it a solid foundation and will help prevent it from moving when cleaning the enclosure. Place the heater and set the temperature to around 76 -78 degrees Fahrenheit. Place the filter in its proper location. Continue to fill up the aquarium to about 90% and test to see if the filter runs. I usually recommend letting the aquarium run for about 12 – 24 hours just to make sure all the equipment runs properly and to ensure there are no leaks. Before adding fish, read up on the Nitrogen Cycle, and the highly recommended fishless cycle.

    Purpose of API Freshwater Master Test Kit

    I will explain the reasoning behind purchasing the other items for your aquarium. The API Freshwater Test Kit is important. The aquarium will go through the nitrogen cycle. The cycle will help create a safe environment for fish and invertebrates. The cycle begins with a spike of ammonia (from waste). The ammonia will convert to nitrites after a week or two. You will use the test kit to follow along. Visible signs of nitrites will appear. After 5-6 weeks, the nitrites should convert to nitrates. When using the test kit, the ideal spot to be in is to test for 0 ammonia and nitrites and have just a hint of nitrates. The nitrogen cycle normally lasts 6 weeks but the process can be sped up to about two weeks by using a bacteria starter.

    Use of Water Conditioner

    A water conditioner is useful to remove the chlorine from the water before adding it to the aquarium. Large amounts of chlorine are not good for fish or invertebrates so removing them is a bonus. Some people allow their water to sit in a bucket for 24 hours before adding it to their fish tank but to be safe the water conditioner is the way to go!

    Supplies For Aquarium Maintenance

    The gravel vacuum will be a must-have when doing maintenance on your aquarium. After creating a siphon, the gravel vacuum will allow water to flow down the tube and into an external bucket. The flow is slow enough to help collect food particles and fish waste but it should not suck up the gravel that was recommended earlier in the article. Using a gravel vacuum makes water changes a breeze.

    The net and food are pretty self-explanatory. The net is to make adding the fish into the aquarium easier and the food of course is to feed the fish.

    Lastly, the glass cleaner will be very useful for cleaning the glass! Algae will form on the glass over time so having an aquarium-safe sponge is beneficial.

    Final Notes

    Aquarium building can be fun while still keeping it simple. Once experience levels increase the hobby can branch out to far reaches. Starting with an easy-to-care-for 10-gallon aquarium creates a good foundation for what could be a lifelong hobby in the future.

  • Ocellaris Clownfish for beginners

    Ocellaris Clownfish for beginners

    Clownfish Information

    The ocellaris clownfish is one of the first fish saltwater hobbyists add to their aquarium. They’re hardy, easy to care for, and popular beyond belief but sometimes go by another name (Nemo). They can become territorial so if a hand is in the aquarium, don’t be surprised to feel a pinching bite from a clown.

    There is a pretty common fact that some may not know. Clownfish are born male and the dominant one in the pair becomes the female. Another interesting bit of info is that female clowns become larger than males. If a female passes away, the male will pair with another female or find another male and will fight for dominance to become a female. If/when a male turns into a female it cannot transform back into a male. Only one pair of clowns is recommended for a fish tank. Any more and there will most likely be quite a bit of fighting which stresses the fish out or can cause harm to them. If one of the fish passes away, it is best to replace it with one of a similar size. For example, try not to introduce a 4″ clown with a 1.5″ clown and hope they pair.

    Many new hobbyists begin their saltwater journey with the common ocellaris clown. Once experience is gained and saltwater aquarium knowledge grows, people find interest in the rarer species of clownfish. Such as snowflake clowns or black ocellaris. There are many other variants of ocellaris clowns to choose from. This guide was made to provide a complete care guide to keeping clownfish.

    Aquarium Requirements

    Ocellaris Clownfish can grow to a size of roughly three inches. It’s not recommended to keep clowns in aquariums smaller than 20 gallons, due to their length at adulthood. Clownfish have very similar water parameters to most other saltwater fish which are:

    • Temperatures between 72 and 78 degrees Fahrenheit
    • dKH levels between 8 and 12
    • pH between 8.0 and 8.4
    • Salinity levels between 1.020 and 1.025 sg.

    Providing these water parameters is key to keeping a clown happy but keeping them stable is also important for their long-term health.

    It is beneficial to provide live rock in the aquarium so your fish has places to hide when stressed. An anemone is a fantastic addition but it is not mandatory to have for your clownfish.

    Anemone Hosting

    Be aware that many tank-raised clownfish will not automatically go into an anemone and host In it. Sometimes it is quite tricky to get them to do so. There are a few things to try to get them to host in an anemone.

    First, if the fish is already in the aquarium, place a video or image of clownfish swimming in anemones against the glass. This may give them the urge to try and do the same. They may see other clowns safely swimming through anemones and instinctively be drawn to them.

    clownfish in anemone

    Second, if the anemone is in an established aquarium, and new clownfish are being introduced, try to put the netted clownfish into a translucent tube. Make sure the tube is wide enough so the clowns can safely travel through it. Also, be sure the end of the tube is almost touching the anemone. When the fish make their way down, it will force them to come into contact with the anemone which may cause them to host in it.


    Third, give it time. Sometimes clownfish will naturally make it’s way to an anemone and host it. I have had them a host in many other things such as frogspawns, torch coral, and green star polyps. Clowns are oddballs but they figure it out eventually.


    Lastly, it’s ok if the clowns don’t host in an anemone. It is remarkable to see them spend all day rubbing against the anemone’s tentacles, feeding it, and just doing their thing but if they are being very stubborn and won’t host, it is not worth stressing them out more than necessary.

    Clownfish Food & Diet

    They should readily eat any type of food offered such as flakes, pellets, or frozen food. Providing different types of food will assist in giving your fish a well-rounded diet! If for some reason your clownfish does not want to eat, try mixing your food with garlic or garlic extract. You can read about feeding garlic to your fish here.

    Tank Mates

    Clownfish do well with most saltwater fish but do not keep them with fish that will try to eat them such as eels, groupers, lionfish, and most other predatory fish. Instead, try to keep clownfish with more peaceful fish such as:

    • Dwarf Angelfish
    • Tang
    • Gobies
    • Chromis
    • Wrasse

    Most types of marine fish are compatible with clowns. Clownfish are also completely reef safe and will not bother coral or invertebrates! They may occasionally attempt to host euphyllia or other coral with tentacles.

    Breeding Clownfish

    If a bonded pair finds an aquarium suitable there is a chance of them laying eggs and producing offspring. Eggs are commonly eaten by other animals in the aquarium without human intervention. Clownfish will often breed in a display tank with no additional work required.

    Building clownfish breeding tanks are pretty straightforward. Many breeders use a 10-gallon aquarium for a pair of clowns. Connect the breeding tank to a sump for filtration. The aquarium itself should be bare bottom with only a clay pot (3 – 5 inches) or pieces of clay tile. The sump should have a heater, protein skimmer, and live rock.

    Keeping water parameters pristine is very important. Also, feed your clownfish a variety of foods at least twice a day to increase their body size to prepare them for breeding. Temperatures can sit around 78 to 80 degrees to motivate your clownfish to breed.

    Egg Care

    It will take roughly 6 to 8 days for your eggs to hatch! Before eggs hatch prepare live food to give them something to eat right after hatching. Feed live rotifers when eggs first hatch then baby brine shrimp after a few days of growth. Setting up a hatching tank will make it easier to care for your eggs and fry. Clownfish eggs will always hatch at night and require total darkness.

    Set up your hatch tank with a heater, sponge filter, and air stone. Seed your sponge in the breeding tank a few weeks before putting it into the hatching tank. Also, be certain that the aquarium, heater, and air stone are cleaned well with hot water before setting up.

    Place the aquarium in a dark location and completely cover all sides with black construction paper or anything that will block out the light. Cover the light that’s on the heater with black electrical tape. Provide a light but be sure to have it incredibly dim because too bright light can kill newly hatched fry.

    Hatch Day

    On hatch day, remove the eggs from the breeding tank and place them into the hatching tank. Before that, make sure the heater’s temperature is the same as the breeding tank. Keep your hatch tank light schedule the same as the breeding tank schedule.

    Place the eggs into the breeding tank and adjust the air stone so that air is flowing over the eggs. This is crucial because eggs need movement to stay alive. A few hours after the lights go out, the eggs should hatch. A very dim flashlight can be used to check.

    Begin feeding live rotifers many times a day and check the water parameters to make sure that ammonia, nitrates, and phosphates do not spike. Fry are very sensitive to water parameter changes so keeping things low and stable is important!

    Final Notes

    Clowns are very fun fish with unique personalities. They’re great as introductory fish into saltwater aquariums but also amazing animal companions in the long term. They can get territorial but the little nibbles are worth dealing with. If you’re looking to learn about other saltwater fish, check out the growing list of care guides for saltwater fish.

  • The Vastness of Aquatic Enclosures!

    The Vastness of Aquatic Enclosures!

    Aquarium Hobby at a Glance

    There are many different types of aquarium-like enclosures a person can have in their home.  They range in all sorts of sizes and levels of difficulty but they are all unique in their own way. From micro enclosures like jarrariums to enormous saltwater aquariums and ponds, there is a niche for everyone! We will broadly talk about many different enclosures for aquatic animals and the level of difficulty of maintaining these enclosures. We will also talk about basic designs and variety in setups.

    Aquatic Jarrariums

    One of the easiest and probably cheapest enclosures for aquatic critters is what is called a jarrarium. A jarrarium can be very simple but also very complex. There are two main types of jarrarium, open or closed. One requires the lid to remain open for oxygen to exchange with water, allowing you to feed the inhabitants, clean the glass, and change the water if it becomes overgrown with algae. The closed jarrarium is filled with inhabitants and sealed in hopes that it will become a self-sustaining system. If built correctly closed systems can be self-sustaining for a few years.

    Eco-Sphere

    The most important and expensive item needed for these types of setups is good glass containers that can hold water. For the most barebone jarrarium, a glass container is needed but the only additional material needed is a scoop of water and substrate from your local pond or lake. These water bodies usually are fully loaded with tiny critters such as dragonfly nymphs and snails. This type of jarrarium is called an eco-sphere. Once the water is scooped out, it’ll be quite murky in appearance, but give the loose substrate time to settle at the bottom of the container and it should clear up. Most people do not add any critters into an eco-sphere but instead observe what type of wildlife comes out of the substrate. Eco-spheres help give an insight into many different critters that are in a person’s local water systems. Many of these eco-spheres are short-lived but a great educational piece for kids and adults.

    Open Jarrarium

    A regular jarrarium usually consists of a soil part, a substrate part, and then the decor that is placed on top. This type of jarrarium usually takes a bit more planning. The use of live plants and mosses is almost a necessity to help intake nutrients in the water, help prevent algal blooms, and provide oxygen for the animals within. Also, live plants are far more beautiful than their plastic counterparts (in my opinion). The livestock is pretty limited for jarrariums. It is usually limited to shrimp, snails, and possibly a betta fish if the jar is large enough. Shrimp come in many gorgeous colors, varieties, and sizes but on the other hand, be careful with snails because some can infest your newly built jarrarium. The jarrarium placement is very important. Changing room temperatures can harm the critters in their enclosure. Most aquatic animals prefer stable water parameters, such as stable temperatures, otherwise, they can be stressed which can lead to death. The amount of light is also a factor to think about. Too much direct sunlight will cause algal blooms and also raise water temperatures and too little will cause your plants to wither away and die. Consider using an artificial light source such as a CFL light above the jarrarium.

    In my opinion, jarrariums are a very fun, easy, and cheap way to get into the world of aquarium keeping. The cost could be as little as just needing to purchase a glass container, but it can still become a very diverse and unique ecosystem. Some jarrariums look like works of art and are gorgeous pieces of decor in a person’s home or office.

    Freshwater

    Next along the lines is freshwater keeping. There are hundreds of different types of freshwater systems a person can put together and it can get a little overwhelming to think about. Different critters require different pH levels, water temperatures, and so on. Also, thinking about live plants will determine the species of fish you can keep. In my opinion, the most important factor to determine the type of fish that can be kept together is the size of the aquarium, and once the size is determined, you can get into deciding what species of fish will be comfortable in that size of an enclosure. I have been in this hobby for ages and worked in the industry. It is terrible seeing fish brought into the store that has damaged or misshapen bodies because they were forced to live in an aquarium that was too small for them.

    From experience, a fish won’t stop growing because of the size of the aquarium. The fish’s growth will be stunted and it will cause its overall health to decline. Anyway, once the aquarium size is chosen the next step is to decide on the fish and decor. To start, many choose the simple route of plastic plants and rocky decor which is perfectly fine, but others will decide on getting more in-depth and setting up an aquarium with live plants and mosses. Putting live plants into an aquarium opens up a new can of worms and potentially increases in difficulty of keeping the aquarium running successfully.

    For ease and simplicity, many fish keepers begin their freshwater journey with fake plants, decor, substrate, hang on the back filter, and a simple LED light. This is the standard aquarium and the easiest route that can be taken. Once interest in the hobby continues, things can branch into more unique niches. Instead of a hang-on-the-back filter, maybe use a canister filter or no filter at all! Instead of a regular old light, a person can try using more intense lights that will give the ability to sustain plant life in the aquarium. The unique alterations that can be made are limitless but we will not be getting into the elaborate details in this article.

    Paludariums

    Paludariums are a little different from a standard aquarium. A paludarium has both a land mass and a water body inside of a glass box. This opens up many doors for hobbyists because now animals such as semi-terrestrial crabs, frogs, or other critters can be added into an enclosure. This type of setup requires a little more knowledge and work to put together. There is quite a bit of planning that must be done before creating a paludarium.

    Unfortunately, the limited size of the paludariums does not allow for species mixing. For example, mixing fiddler crabs with fire-belly toads. There is a great chance they may become territorial in such a small space, see one another as potential food, or just compete for food within the enclosure. This could lead to stressful situations for the animals and possibly put them in dangerous situations.

    There are many things to consider when setting up a paludarium such as: What animal will you be keeping? Do you want water filtration? Do you want a waterfall setup? How deep do you want the water body? How much landmass? What plants do you want to keep? What kind of fish? The questions go on and on, but I am trying to get your mind thinking of some of the considerations that need to be taken for a paludarium.

    Setting up and keeping a paludarium running is more difficult than setting up a freshwater aquarium. It takes far more planning to get the design right and deciding what terrestrial and aquatic animals to put it can be a challenge.

    Terrarium/Vivarium

    Many people use these terms interchangeably but there is a difference between the two. A terrarium is designed to primarily raise plants and a vivarium is used to house an animal. A terrarium can have animals but it can just be a glass enclosure filled with unique and exotic plants. On the other hand, a vivarium is designed to house and recreate an animal’s habitat. Common animals that are placed in vivariums are Dart frogs, geckos, and frogs. Vivariums and terrariums do not have a water body to house fish and other aquatic animals but a vivarium may have a water dish for the critters to drink from. They can be microhabitats or enormous enclosures that fill a whole room’s wall. Terrariums and vivariums are easier to set up and maintain than a paludarium but are a little harder to keep than a freshwater aquarium.

    Saltwater

    There is a lot of intimidation for aquarists that are thinking of transitioning into keeping saltwater aquariums. I would not set up a saltwater aquarium as a beginner hobbyist. I would gain knowledge about a freshwater aquariums, dip my toes in live plants, and research saltwater aquarium setups and keeping. Once all that experience and knowledge is gained, only then would I consider setting up a saltwater aquarium. Keeping a saltwater aquarium is not that hard. Keeping it well is where the challenge is and the cost of setup and maintaining it is what scares many away. Try freshwater and if you enjoy fish keeping consider setting up a saltwater aquarium.

    The two primary niches of keeping saltwater aquariums are reef tanks or fish only. Many who set up reef aquariums are doing it to end up growing coral in their aquarium. There are many critters in the saltwater hobby that are not compatible with reef aquariums. For example, pufferfish wholeheartedly love devouring hermits and snails that would normally be found in a reef. Parrot fish will graze down your stony coral with ease. There are starfish and urchins that will also destroy a reef system. These are just a few examples of incompatibilities between animals. Decide what fish you would like in your aquarium and that will determine whether a reef tank is good for you.

    Fish Only Aquarium Setup

    Fish-only aquariums will not have corals and may or may not do well with crustaceans. Predatory aquariums are usually why hobbyists do not build a reef aquariums. Common critters that are put into fish only systems are angelfish, lionfish, eels, pufferfish, parrotfish, wrasses, stingrays, and many more. This type of setup will need a large filter because of the dietary needs of most of the animals. A sump system is recommended with a very good protein skimmer. Usually predatory aquariums and fish only setups are large (125+ gallons). This is because many of your predatory fish get very large.

    Reef Aquarium Setup

    Reef aquariums are quite different. They need good lights for corals, they will have crustaceans, and they can be very small or very big. I would still recommend a sump system with a protein skimmer for reefs but I would also look into setting up a refugium in your sump for additional filtration. Larger systems are easier to maintain but there is quite a fondness for nano reefs as well.

    There are many different types of coral which broaden the spectrum even more. SPS corals need pristine water conditions so are usually kept in an SPS reef aquarium, while other corals like zoas and leathers do need specific parameters and can be put into a mixed reef or a species-specific aquarium of their own.

    There are hundreds of different reef-compatible fish and crustaceans. I will not be going into the details of this because there are so many. Think of the type of fish you would like and research what size fish tank it requires and whether it is reef safe. Also, check the temperament of the fish. Many are very peaceful but others will get territorial. These are the main parameters for these fish.

    Saltwater aquariums will easily cost an aquarists hundreds to thousands of dollars to set up. Reef systems are especially costly due to the lighting needs and the addition of quite a bit of live rock. That is why making sure this hobby is for you is important before walking down this path. Saltwater aquariums are for hobbyists who know a thing or two about aquariums and understand how water systems work.

    Ponds

    Ponds are not as common in the hobby as the others. Many people do not have a yard large enough for a pond. Regardless, they are a great place to relax. The primary fish kept in a pond is a koi fish. They are very similar to goldfish but are usually longer and grow larger. Their colors are magnificent! Other animals that may naturally come around ponds are frogs and turtles.

    Ponds also can have different plant matter growing in them. Lillies and floating water lettuce are two that come to mind that is quite commonly found in home ponds. They are a nice addition and provide cover for your fish from predators such as raccoons and herons. Also adding a little bit of green color never hurt.

    There are many things to consider when setting up a pond. They can get quite expensive. Picking a location is important. More sunlight will lead to more algae growth in your pond but also too much shade may cause other plants from flourishing inside. During the initial setup, choosing a pond liner is very important. A durable liner may cost more at first but will hopefully prevent leaks from happening which will save you money and stress in the long run. A waterfall feature will add great aeration to the pond but a pond pump costs a lot of money! Think about other aerating fixtures to get oxygen into your system.

    The following is more dependent on where you live. In the United States, the Midwest goes through four seasons. Pumps need to be shut off for the winter, koi need to be either taken inside or fattened up for the winter, springtime will lead to pond cleaning, and so on. The pond needs to be deep enough for fish to be kept in there through winter. These are obstacles that need to be overcome in the Midwest but it’s not as big of a problem in warm states like Florida or Arizona.

    Ponds are wonderful! They are a great place just to cool down and enjoy nature in your backyard but they are quite difficult to maintain and can be costly. The chance of losing a fish to predators is unfortunate but it’s a risk that is taken by pond keepers due to its beauty! Quite a bit of research and preparation should be conducted before setting up a pond!