Tag: setup

Supplies to Setting Up a 10 Gallon Saltwater Reef Tank
Most people that venture into this hobby start with a freshwater aquarium filled with colorful gravel and plastic plants. From here, after countless hours of research, many of us venture into planted aquariums or more niche types of fish tanks. The final step for many aquarium keepers is dipping their toes into saltwater fish tanks. This is usually the final step due to the challenges and costs that saltwater aquariums can bring. It is very rewarding setting up a successful saltwater fish tank, and with today’s equipment and technology, it has become much easier than years before.
This article will focus on equipment and supplies needed to setup a 10-gallon reef tank, but much of what will be discussed can be scaled up to 15 – 20 gallon aquariums.
Disclaimer Before Continuing
Before diving into the long list of supplies for saltwater aquariums, there are a few things I want to bring up. First, I would not recommend setting up something this small if it’s your first time creating a saltwater setup. If you’re new to saltwater, I would recommend setting up at least a 25 – 30 gallon aquarium. The easier route is to set up an All-in-One type of aquarium, like the Coralife Biocube, Waterbox Cube 25, or SC Aquariums 24 Gallon AIO. This is mostly because a larger aquarium holds more water volume and more water volume helps keep your water parameters a little more stable.
My second disclaimer for small reef tanks is that I would personally not recommend adding fish into a 10-gallon saltwater fish tank, especially if you’re new to this. You may be able to get away with a small species of goby like the Yasha Goby or Jester Goby but I would not recommend other fish such as Clownfish, Blennies, or most other species. The space they need and the bio-load they have will make your aquarium harder to maintain. For this aquarium, I would stick to just corals and invertebrates.
Lastly, if you run this aquarium as an open top, you will likely need to top off your water daily. I have to add about a half cup to a full cup of RO water daily to keep my salinity at 1.024 sg. On top of that, I would recommend also changing about a gallon of water once a week to help remove any nitrates, phosphates, and waste from the aquarium.
List of Supplies Needed for Aquarium
There are many different supplies and equipment that can be recommended for your saltwater reef tank. I will provide you a list of things that I have purchased for mine, and that have continued to work for me. I will split the supplies/equipment into 2 categories, things I highly recommend/are needed and supplies/equipment that are optional. I will cover the following in a little more detail:
- Filtration
- Lighting
- Hardscape (live rock and sand)
- Aquarium
- Water changing
- Misc. Supplies
Filtration (needed)
For my 10-gallon saltwater reef tank, I decided to use an Aquaclear 70. The intake tube of the Aquaclear 70 may be too long if you choose to have a deep sand bed but I made it work for my setup. It provides a large chamber for filter media and also provides plenty of flow for an aquarium this size. If you’re curious about the other types of Aquaclear HOB filters, check out Fluval Aquaclear HOB Filter – Specs, Dimensions, etc. My goal is to use the large chamber as a refugium in the future, but for now, I have it filled with AQUANEAT Bio Sponge Filter Pad and Aquaclear BioMax. So far, running these two have helped keep my water crystal clear and there is plenty of surface area for bacteria to colonize the filter media.
Filtration (recommended)
If you’re not interested in setting up a small refugium in your HOB filter, I recommend Chemi-pure Blue or some form of Activated Carbon media to help remove undesirable contaminants from your water. I would also include the Bio Sponge Filter Media Pad and BioMax listed above. This media and weekly water changes will help keep your water in excellent condition.
Lighting (needed)
If you’re looking to grow coral, you will need some type of lighting designed for coral. You do not need a high-end light to grow many different types of coral. I currently run a NICREW LED Light which is a very budget-friendly light, but I also understand the limitations of the light that I am using. You’re welcome to go all out with the Radion G6 LED Light, which has all the bells and whistles, or catch it in between with the NICREW 100 Watts Aquarium LED Reef Light. There are so many different lighting options out there, you just have to find the one that will work best for you and your coral.
Heater (needed)
Most marine animals will require aquarium temperatures between 72°F – 78°F. I usually keep my marine aquariums between 76°F and 78°F. A heater will not only raise your temperature to your desired degree, but it will help prevent fluctuations. Stability in water parameters is one of the things you should always strive to have. If you’re looking for suggestions on heaters, check out 6 Best Heaters for Freshwater and Saltwater Fish Tanks. I would also purchase a thermometer for aquariums as a safety check that your heater is working properly.
Hardscaping With Live Rock & Live Sand (needed)
Your hardscape is what you will be looking at every day. It’s important to make it look exactly how you want it. In my opinion, live rock and live sand are important additions to an aquarium this small because they create the surface area for bacterial colonies to settle. If possible, I would recommend going to your local fish store to see if they have live rock or dry rock for sale. If they do, ask to simulate the scaping in-store and find the best pieces for you. If you do not have access to live rock at a local fish store, you can find some on Amazon, like the Carib Sea Base Rock or Nature Ocean Base Rock. You’ll likely only need between 10 and 20 lbs. of rock for a 10-gallon aquarium.
Another thing to keep an eye out for at your local fish store is live sand. CaribSea is often the go-to brand for live sand. I usually try to choose either CaribSea Reef Sand or CaribSea Fiji Pink Sand. Some very fine sands look incredible in reef tanks, but I usually avoid them because of how easily they get stirred up. Similar to live rock, you’ll only really need anywhere between 5 and 15 lbs. of sand for your reef tank.
Aquarium (needed)
An aquarium will be needed realistically for any type of setup that requires water. What type of aquarium you choose is completely up to you. My 10-gallon is made by Aqueon. Many other brands make this size aquarium so choose which is available for you. Petco often has discounted aquariums, so you may be able to pick one up for cheap.
Water Changing (needed)
Water changes will be the backbone of keeping this aquarium up and running. It’s important to get all the supplies needed for water changes. Everyone has a preference for what equipment and supplies are a necessity, but the following are mine.
Clean Water
The first thing that you will need is clean water. As easy as it might be to get water from the tap, it will unfortunately not work well for a reef tank. A saltwater aquarium will do best if you use distilled water or RO water. If you have the money and space to set up an RO unit, I highly recommend it. The RO Buddie is a nice compact Reverse Osmosis Unit that creates roughly 50 gallons of clean water per day. However, there are much larger units you can purchase if needed. It will save you from taking trips to the store. Otherwise, most distilled water jugs from stores provide nearly as good water as RO water.
Saltwater Reef Salt (needed)
You can’t use table salt or aquarium salt to create a marine saltwater habitat. You need reef salt. When I first started working with saltwater aquariums I would always use Instant Ocean Reef Crystals. Since then, I have decided to change it up and have moved to Red Sea – Coral Pro Salt. It’s more expensive than Instant Ocean Reef Crystals, but I prefer using the Red Sea Salt. There are many different marine salts available, it will be your personal preference as to which works best. Also, either purchase a measuring cup online or run to your nearest dollar store for a cheap measuring cup. This will be used to measure the amount of salt needed for your aquarium.
Refractometer
A well-calibrated refractometer, like this one from Amazon, will be your best friend when it comes to gauging the proper salt level in your fish tank. Avoid purchasing hydrometers if you can, their accuracy diminishes significantly over time because salt particles will stick to the meter and provide an inaccurate reading.
Siphon Hose & Bucket
Siphon hoses will be a great tool to have to remove water and/or vacuum your sand bed. You can get a simple Aqueon Aquarium Siphon, a fancy Laifoo Aquarium Siphon, or any other gravel siphon available out there. On top of that, I would recommend purchasing at least two 5-gallon or 2-gallon buckets, preferably with measurements displayed on the side for easy measuring. It’ll make life easier to have a bucket for clean water and a bucket for dirty water.
Other Supplies
Coral Food (recommended)
Once you start adding coral into your fish tank, you’re going to want to feed them. I usually feed mine 2-3 times a week with different types of food. My go-to foods for coral are Polyp Lab Reef-Roids and Reef Chili. I also supplement them with Red Sea Reef Energy Plus AB+. If you’re going this route I would suggest that you also purchase disposable pipettes or a Coral Feeder Syringe. This will help you successfully target feed your coral, to make sure they are getting the food you provide.
Coral Rx (recommended)
Coral from different pet stores, online shops, or even the same pet store can be full of different nuisance critters and parasites. Coral Rx is a concentrated coral dip, and giving your coral a dip in Coral Rx will help eradicate the parasites before you place them into your reef tank. Coral Rx is the one I commonly use, but there are a multitude of dips out there. Here is a great guide from some pro reefkeepers on different dips and dosages used.
Coral Fragging Tools & Frag Plugs (optional)
If your aquarium is running successfully, your coral will likely grow into surrounding rocks. A time may come when you need to frag your coral. Fragging consists of you cutting chunks of rock that hold your coral, or breaking off pieces of coral and transplanting them onto frag plugs. The DDP Coral Frag Kit may come in handy when this time comes. Many stony corals will likely need a more heavy-duty tool like a band saw to create clean cuts and to prevent excess damage. Once corals are fragged they will need to be placed on a piece of rock or frag plug to keep them from floating away.
Super Glue (recommended)
When you are fragging plugs, you will have to adhere them to something hard, like a rock or frag plug. Super Glue can be used to stick the coral onto these types of surfaces. There are many types of Super Glues on the market, but I recommend Gorilla Glue Super Glue Gel for this task because it runs less and seems less messy than many other glues.
Water Test Kits (needed)
When you set up a fish tank of any kind, it will go through a nitrogen cycle. It could last anywhere between a couple of weeks to over a month. If you seed your aquarium with bacteria from a well-established fish tank, the cycle should be much shorter. Regardless, it’s very important to monitor the progress of your nitrogen cycle, as well as monitor water parameters afterward. You will want to test for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates throughout your cycle. After your cycle is complete you should test for nitrates, phosphates, carbonate hardness, and pH in your reef tank, but I would at least start with nitrates, phosphates, and calcium.
An API Saltwater Master Test Kit provides the kits needed to test for pH, Ammonia, Nitrites, and Nitrates, which will get you through that nitrogen cycle. API makes fairly easy-to-follow test kits, which are very beginner friendly. There are other things to test for like magnesium which will require more elaborate test kits, like Red Sea’s Marine Care Test Kits, and Salifert test kits. I highly recommend checking them all out.
Final Notes
This is an incredibly long list of supplies I believe is important to your reef-keeping journey. These are simply recommendations. Not everyone will agree with my choices, but there are a million ways of doing one thing correctly. I left out equipment like protein skimmers and UV sterilizers from this list because I do not think they are necessary for a setup this small. You will replace both those pieces of equipment with water changes. If you have any comments or suggestions on more guides, please send me an email at atparium@gmail.com. I will have an article ready soon on the steps to setup a reef tank, but for now I have attached a video of the process below!
August 8, 2023
10 Gallon Freshwater Equipment List For Beginners
The 10 gallon aquarium is the starting point for many fish hobbyists. It’s a fish tank that will fit a handful of fish and also visually appealing without breaking the wallet. It’s the perfect size for smaller bedrooms, countertops and large enough where it should not be as challenging as smaller fish tanks. This guide will provide information on equipment and items needed to setup a 10 gallon aquarium. Each image has a link attached which will take you to the product’s sale page.
Aquarium Glass
First, we must start with the 10 gallon aquarium. For this guide, we chose the Aqueon 10 Gallon Aquarium with clear silicone. Aqueon is a great company and makes great fish tanks.
Needing the aquarium is pretty self explanatory, we need it to hold the water and give your future fish a home! This aquarium is 14 x 23.75 x 16.5 inches.

Filtration
Filtration makes aquarium keeping a little bit easier by sucking up extra food and fish waste. There are two different types of filters we recommend for this type of setup. We recommend either using a hang on the back filter or a sponge filter. They both function differently and each have their ups and downs and we will give a little information about both.
The Aquaclear 30 is our preferred filtration system for a small nano aquarium such as the 10 gallon. This hang on the back filter is quite easy to install and it provides mechanical, chemical and biological filtration.

This filter achieves mechanical filtration using water flow and running it through filter pads or filter floss. It also reaches chemical filtration by running water through activated carbon. Lastly, biological filtration is present because beneficial bacteria forms colonies in the filter.. The Aquaclear filter is compact. Also, the majority of its housing is out of the aquarium which leaves more space inside for decorations and swimming space for fish. The flow is adjustable and the Aquaclear 30 is rated up to 30 gallon of water so perfect if you ever decide to upgrade.
The sponge filter has the capability of reaching the mechanical and biological filtration but not the chemical. It is a big sponge and quite a bit of beneficial bacteria will find home in it.
Besides lacking chemical filtration, the only other downside is that an aquarium air pump and air line tubing must be purchased with a sponge filter. The air pump sits out of the aquarium with a tube that goes into the fish tank and gets inserted into the sponge filter.

Whichever is chosen is determined by personal preference. Both sponge filter and HOB filter will aid in keeping your nano tank clean.
Heaters
Our preference for heaters is the Fluval M50. It is rated for fish tanks up to 15 gallons and has an adjustable control dial which is convenient.
This heater is fully submersible, wires and all. The only thing that should not be submerged of course is the outlet plug. It’s a sturdy heater and we personally have had great success in using this one.
It also has a mirrored finish to help blend it to the environment surrounding it.

Lighting
A great budget light for your aquarium is the Finnex Planted+ 24/7 LED Light. This fixture will illuminate your nano aquarium with customizable & controllable green, red, blue, and daylights.
Furthermore, the Finnex light fixture will give you the right amount of light to potentially grow plants in your 10 gallon fish tank. A remote is also included with the light fixture to program your lights to your needs. This light fixture can handle medium to high light demanding plants.

An even bigger budget light fixture is the NICREW ClassicLED aquarium light. The NICREW light does not carry the same bells and whistles as the Finnex fixture but still can pack a punch for the price.
This light fixture has a nice low profile and extendable legs but unfortunately does not have a controller to program the light for your desires. This light fixture should be able to handle medium to high light demanding plants.

Final Notes
Hopefully this guide will provide you enough information to setup the skeleton of your fish tank. There is still much to add such as gravel, decorations and things like fish food and extra filter media. For information on items needed for your fish tank take a look at our setup guide here. The guide will provide a good foothold to starting and setting up your fish tank.
December 17, 2020
Setting Up a GloFish Specific Aquarium
Setting up an aquarium can be as simple or as complicated as you would like to make it. This will be an in-depth guide on how to set up a fish tank specifically for Glofish Tetras and/or Glofish Danios. This guide is primarily for beginner aquarists who are dipping their toes into the hobby or for parents who need guidance on setting up an aquarium for their children. For some quick information on GloFish check out this guide!
We will be using a 20-gallon aquarium as a point of reference for this setup guide. A fish tank this large will allow you to keep a few more fish and a larger water volume will help keep water parameters stable. Under normal circumstances, an inch of full-grown fish per gallon is the recommended ratio for keeping fish in an aquarium. GloFish Tetras and GloFish Danios max out at 2.5 inches. This will allow you to keep either 8 tetras or danios. This is great because both are schooling fish and it’s recommended to keep at least 6 to consider it a school.
Equipment Required
No matter what type of aquarium you set up, you’ll likely need at least one piece of equipment to keep it running. Once you become a pro, you are welcome to change things up and tweak the equipment to your liking. However, if you’re new to fish tank keeping, I recommend following along to learn about the equipment I recommend for your fish tank.
Aquarium Heaters
We will need a heater. The 75-watt Eheim fully submersible heater or the Fluval M100 Submersible Heater are great choices. These heaters are fully submersible so you can easily hide them behind the decor. Also, they can be calibrated to the desired temperature using the dial at the top. As with any piece of equipment, it can come faulty or become faulty over time. I highly recommend purchasing something like the Penn-Plax Therma Temp Floating Thermometer to keep an eye on the temperature in case your heater decides to fault out. If you need more heater suggestions, take a look at some of the Best Heaters for Freshwater & Saltwater Fish Tanks!
Filtration System
A good filter is always recommended. My preferred filter for a setup like this is the Aquaclear 30 Power Filter. I like this one because it has three different compartments where filter media can be added. It comes included with a sponge, carbon, and biomax. First, the sponge catches debris. The sponge will require replacement eventually but rinsing it in aquarium water during water changes will keep it going for a while.
Second, the carbon absorbs nutrients and will need to be changed once a month. Lastly, the biomax creates a bacteria haven which is important to aid in keeping a stable aquarium. These can be swapped out with other filter media but they are also perfectly fine to use for your Glofish aquarium. Unlike other filters, this one maximizes the space to assist in keeping your water clean!
Aquarium Lighting
Blue lights are what will make your Glofish pop in color. We will need a light that can be set to just blue lights to make your fish glow! Fancy lights can get expensive. Luckily there are budget lights that should do the trick for this kind of setup. The Hygger 18w Aquarium LED Light will provide you with both normal lights (to help live plants grow) and a setting to let only the blue lights shine.
If you want to go all out and splurge on a more elaborate light the Current USA Satellite Plus Pro LED Fixture is a great choice. It comes with a controller which allows you to program the lights and also use preset settings to create different effects like cloud cover and storms. Purchasing this light will also give you the ability to grow more difficult plants in your aquarium if you ever decide to go that route.
Optional Equipment
Aquarium Air Pump
An air pump is not a requirement but it adds a cool effect to the aquarium. Connecting it to compatible decorations or creating an enormous bubble wall creates a more unique aquarium experience.
Auto Feeders
Auto feeders are not usually something I recommend but they are also an option for anyone who travels and isn’t always home to feed the fish. I don’t normally recommend them because they will at times overfeed or dump most of the food at once which can create terrible spikes in phosphates and nitrates in your aquarium which can be terrible for your fish.
Decorations for GloFish Aquarium
The next thing on the list for setting up a GloFish tank is the decorations. My recommendation for a GloFish aquarium is dark gravel with little hints of coloring. Either completely black gravel or one with a little bit of color. If you plan on keeping plants, a deeper gravel bed will be needed, but otherwise, an inch-deep gravel bed should do just fine. For a 20-gallon fish tank, you’ll probably need anywhere between 10 and 20 lbs. of gravel.
Image by Jim Zamichieli on wikimedia
Since we are putting an aquarium together specifically for GloFish having fake plants that will glow under blue lights is recommended. These plants will give the aquarium an “out of this world” feeling. Loading the aquarium with quite a few fake plants is great!
Adding some hardscape into your aquarium is important. Adding just plants won’t give structure to your fish tank. It is important to have something solid to create a nice structure and shape. Things like rocks, driftwood, sunken ships, and others are fantastic ways to bring your fish tank to life.
Other Must Have Items
There are a handful of items that I would recommend having ready to go while setting up your aquarium.
Test Kits
The API Ammonia Test Kit and API Freshwater Master Test Kit are important because your new aquarium will be going through the nitrogen cycle. The cycle goes through and once completed will provide the bacteria required to keep your fish safe. The cycle begins with a spike of ammonia. Then that converts to nitrites and lastly, the nitrites get converted to nitrates. You’ll likely know the Nitrogen Cycle is completed when you test for 0 Ammonia and Nitrites and you’ll likely see a hint of Nitrates. The nitrogen cycle normally lasts 6 weeks but the process can be sped up to about two weeks by using a bacteria starter, or media of some sort from an established aquarium.
Aquarium Water Conditioner
A water conditioner, like API’s Tap Water Conditioner, is useful to remove chlorine from the water before adding it to the aquarium. Large amounts of chlorine are bad for your aquarium’s inhabitants. API’s water conditioner is fairly straightforward. You will only need to add water conditioner to the water being added. If you change out 5 gallons of water, you only need to add water conditioner for 5 gallons worth of water. You do not need to add water conditioner for the full 20 gallons of aquarium water.
Gravel Vacuum
A gravel vacuum, like the Laifoo Aquarium Siphon, will be a must-have when water changes are conducted. The gravel vacuum is probably one of the easiest ways to remove water and clean your gravel. This one specifically is nice because it has a siphon ball which will help create a siphon. This will help you avoid getting a mouthful of water if you decide to start a siphon manually.
Net, Food, Glass Cleaner
A net and food are pretty self-explanatory. The net is to make adding the fish into the aquarium easier and the food of course is to feed the fish. Lastly, the glass cleaner will be very useful for cleaning the glass! Algae will form on the glass over time so having an aquarium-safe sponge is beneficial. I sometimes use an old gift card to clean my glass, or I treat myself by using a Melamine Sponge to clean hard-to-reach spots in the fish tank.
Setup Process
To begin, place your aquarium in its desired location. Gently begin adding gravel into the aquarium. Be sure not to drop the gravel from great heights because the glass could shatter.
Since the fish tank is empty, it’s okay to add water conditioner before or after the water is put into the fish tank. While filling the aquarium to about 30% of the water capacity begin brainstorming where to put your aquarium decorations and heater. Once 30% water capacity is reached, begin placing your decorations, and be sure to wedge your hardscape decor a little bit so it is firmly in its place.
After your decorations are in place fill your aquarium with water to about 90% capacity and place your power filter in the center back of the fish tank. Having it in the center will provide the best performance and circulation. Also, now would be the time to add the heater. Turn the dial to the desired temperature (76 – 78 degrees Fahrenheit) place it and angle it to your preference but be sure it is submerged underwater. Test out the filter and make sure it runs correctly. Once the filter begins to work continue filling the water until the fish tank is filled. Then turn on the heater and set up the light fixture.
I normally recommend allowing the aquarium to run for at least 24 hours. I do this to make sure all of the equipment is running properly and also just to make sure there are no leaks in the aquarium. I would add API Quick Start to your aquarium. This contains nitrifying bacteria that will be necessary for your new aquarium. It will hopefully speed up the nitrogen cycle and will make your aquarium safer for new arrivals.
Final Thoughts
API Quick Start should help you get through your Nitrogen Cycle quickly. I would recommend looking into the Nitrogen Cycle before beginning any sort of aquarium setup. You are working with live animals, so it is important to conduct the proper research before deciding whether to keep them in your home. Unfortunately, many people forget that.
Lastly, look into adding some snails and/or shrimp to add a clean-up crew after your Nitrogen Cycle has completed. They’re great at eating algae and uneaten food! Otherwise, I hope this guide helps with setting up a brand-new GloFish aquarium!
Image by Robert Kamalov on wikimedia
July 31, 2020
Setting Up a Simple Freshwater Aquarium
This guide will help brand-new aquarists set up their first freshwater aquarium. This article is relevant for aquariums that are 10 – 30 gallons in size. Aquariums come in all shapes and sizes, with different decorations, plants, filtration systems, and more. This will be a very basic setup guide to help new fish keepers get started. We will cover the steps needed for the actual setup and equipment that can be used for the aquarium.
Equipment Needed
To begin, the main equipment needed to keep an aquatic system running are the glass enclosure, heater, filter, and light. These are must-haves, especially if you are just starting. An air pump adds more oxygen but it should not be necessary for this type of setup because the filter will provide enough oxygen for fish to thrive.
- A submersible heater, like the Aqueon Pro Series Heater, is an excellent option for heating your aquarium because it is made by a very popular brand and is built incredibly well. If you’re not interested in the Aqueon Pro Series Heater, check out some of the Best Submersible Heaters for Freshwater and saltwater Aquariums.
- A hang-on-the-back filter, such as the Aquaclear Series (power filter) is also a great choice for a filtration system because it allows for chemical, mechanical, and biological filtration. You can check out other Hang-on-back Filters by following the link.
- LED lights, such as the NICREW ClassLED Aquarium Lights are a good budget light that will open the door for aquatic plants in the future. They provide great lighting, usually last years, and don’t use too much electricity. Make sure the size of the LED light matches the length of your fish tank.
Decorating & Jump Starting Your Aquarium
Having a nice gravel bed is a great way to make your fish tank pop! I prefer dark gravel, like this one on Amazon, because that will make the colors of the fish tank stand out more. For first-time aquarists, I usually recommend black aquarium gravel. Just remember to rinse the gravel before putting it into your fish tank. Do not use soap, just water. Adding 1 lb. of gravel for every gallon of water will create a nice deep gravel bed, adding a nice look to an aquarium. However, it’s not necessary to add that much.
Purchasing decorations is a great idea! There are many different types of decorations such as plastic plants, driftwood, pirate ships, and so on. If you enjoy Halloween, take a look at some Halloween-inspired aquarium decorations. The types of decorations are limitless. I recommend Easy to Care for Live Plants and driftwood to give a natural look, but to each their own.
A few other things needed for a new aquarium are an API Freshwater Master Test Kit, water conditioner, gravel vacuum, net, and fish food (flake food and pellets), and glass cleaner (sponge or magnetic).
Setup Process
The setup process is the fun part of it all. Once you have all your tools and equipment, it’s time to finally put together your new aquarium. I will continue by discussing aquarium placement and decoration recommendations below.
Aquarium Placement
Once everything is purchased and ready to go it is time to start setting up the aquarium. Find a location in the house away from windows and air/heating vents. Windows provide more sunlight than needed which will cause algal blooms to occur and air/heating vents may cause temperature fluctuations in the aquarium which is not desirable.
Adding Gravel & Water
Gravel and decorations should be rinsed before placing into the enclosure. Once that is done begin by gently putting the gravel at the bottom of the aquarium. Place the water into a bucket and add water conditioner to remove chlorine from it. Usually, 1 drop of water conditioner is added per gallon of water but it may vary so double-check the instructions on the bottle you are using. The water temperature does not matter so much right now but try to eyeball the temperature to be around 74° – 78° Fahrenheit. Fish will not be added yet so an exact temperature isn’t necessary. Repeat these steps until the aquarium is roughly 50 – 75% full and begin adding the decorations.
Placing Decorations, Equipment & Final Touches
Push the base of the decorations to the bottom of the gravel bed. This will give it a solid foundation and will help prevent it from moving when cleaning the enclosure. Place the heater and set the temperature to around 76 -78 degrees Fahrenheit. Place the filter in its proper location. Continue to fill up the aquarium to about 90% and test to see if the filter runs. I usually recommend letting the aquarium run for about 12 – 24 hours just to make sure all the equipment runs properly and to ensure there are no leaks. Before adding fish, read up on the Nitrogen Cycle, and the highly recommended fishless cycle.
Purpose of API Freshwater Master Test Kit
I will explain the reasoning behind purchasing the other items for your aquarium. The API Freshwater Test Kit is important. The aquarium will go through the nitrogen cycle. The cycle will help create a safe environment for fish and invertebrates. The cycle begins with a spike of ammonia (from waste). The ammonia will convert to nitrites after a week or two. You will use the test kit to follow along. Visible signs of nitrites will appear. After 5-6 weeks, the nitrites should convert to nitrates. When using the test kit, the ideal spot to be in is to test for 0 ammonia and nitrites and have just a hint of nitrates. The nitrogen cycle normally lasts 6 weeks but the process can be sped up to about two weeks by using a bacteria starter.
Use of Water Conditioner
A water conditioner is useful to remove the chlorine from the water before adding it to the aquarium. Large amounts of chlorine are not good for fish or invertebrates so removing them is a bonus. Some people allow their water to sit in a bucket for 24 hours before adding it to their fish tank but to be safe the water conditioner is the way to go!
Supplies For Aquarium Maintenance
The gravel vacuum will be a must-have when doing maintenance on your aquarium. After creating a siphon, the gravel vacuum will allow water to flow down the tube and into an external bucket. The flow is slow enough to help collect food particles and fish waste but it should not suck up the gravel that was recommended earlier in the article. Using a gravel vacuum makes water changes a breeze.
The net and food are pretty self-explanatory. The net is to make adding the fish into the aquarium easier and the food of course is to feed the fish.
Lastly, the glass cleaner will be very useful for cleaning the glass! Algae will form on the glass over time so having an aquarium-safe sponge is beneficial.
Final Notes
Aquarium building can be fun while still keeping it simple. Once experience levels increase the hobby can branch out to far reaches. Starting with an easy-to-care-for 10-gallon aquarium creates a good foundation for what could be a lifelong hobby in the future.
July 2, 2020
The Vastness of Aquatic Enclosures!
Aquarium Hobby at a Glance
There are many different types of aquarium-like enclosures a person can have in their home. They range in all sorts of sizes and levels of difficulty but they are all unique in their own way. From micro enclosures like jarrariums to enormous saltwater aquariums and ponds, there is a niche for everyone! We will broadly talk about many different enclosures for aquatic animals and the level of difficulty of maintaining these enclosures. We will also talk about basic designs and variety in setups.
Aquatic Jarrariums
One of the easiest and probably cheapest enclosures for aquatic critters is what is called a jarrarium. A jarrarium can be very simple but also very complex. There are two main types of jarrarium, open or closed. One requires the lid to remain open for oxygen to exchange with water, allowing you to feed the inhabitants, clean the glass, and change the water if it becomes overgrown with algae. The closed jarrarium is filled with inhabitants and sealed in hopes that it will become a self-sustaining system. If built correctly closed systems can be self-sustaining for a few years.
Eco-Sphere
The most important and expensive item needed for these types of setups is good glass containers that can hold water. For the most barebone jarrarium, a glass container is needed but the only additional material needed is a scoop of water and substrate from your local pond or lake. These water bodies usually are fully loaded with tiny critters such as dragonfly nymphs and snails. This type of jarrarium is called an eco-sphere. Once the water is scooped out, it’ll be quite murky in appearance, but give the loose substrate time to settle at the bottom of the container and it should clear up. Most people do not add any critters into an eco-sphere but instead observe what type of wildlife comes out of the substrate. Eco-spheres help give an insight into many different critters that are in a person’s local water systems. Many of these eco-spheres are short-lived but a great educational piece for kids and adults.
Open Jarrarium
A regular jarrarium usually consists of a soil part, a substrate part, and then the decor that is placed on top. This type of jarrarium usually takes a bit more planning. The use of live plants and mosses is almost a necessity to help intake nutrients in the water, help prevent algal blooms, and provide oxygen for the animals within. Also, live plants are far more beautiful than their plastic counterparts (in my opinion). The livestock is pretty limited for jarrariums. It is usually limited to shrimp, snails, and possibly a betta fish if the jar is large enough. Shrimp come in many gorgeous colors, varieties, and sizes but on the other hand, be careful with snails because some can infest your newly built jarrarium. The jarrarium placement is very important. Changing room temperatures can harm the critters in their enclosure. Most aquatic animals prefer stable water parameters, such as stable temperatures, otherwise, they can be stressed which can lead to death. The amount of light is also a factor to think about. Too much direct sunlight will cause algal blooms and also raise water temperatures and too little will cause your plants to wither away and die. Consider using an artificial light source such as a CFL light above the jarrarium.
In my opinion, jarrariums are a very fun, easy, and cheap way to get into the world of aquarium keeping. The cost could be as little as just needing to purchase a glass container, but it can still become a very diverse and unique ecosystem. Some jarrariums look like works of art and are gorgeous pieces of decor in a person’s home or office.
Freshwater
Next along the lines is freshwater keeping. There are hundreds of different types of freshwater systems a person can put together and it can get a little overwhelming to think about. Different critters require different pH levels, water temperatures, and so on. Also, thinking about live plants will determine the species of fish you can keep. In my opinion, the most important factor to determine the type of fish that can be kept together is the size of the aquarium, and once the size is determined, you can get into deciding what species of fish will be comfortable in that size of an enclosure. I have been in this hobby for ages and worked in the industry. It is terrible seeing fish brought into the store that has damaged or misshapen bodies because they were forced to live in an aquarium that was too small for them.
From experience, a fish won’t stop growing because of the size of the aquarium. The fish’s growth will be stunted and it will cause its overall health to decline. Anyway, once the aquarium size is chosen the next step is to decide on the fish and decor. To start, many choose the simple route of plastic plants and rocky decor which is perfectly fine, but others will decide on getting more in-depth and setting up an aquarium with live plants and mosses. Putting live plants into an aquarium opens up a new can of worms and potentially increases in difficulty of keeping the aquarium running successfully.
For ease and simplicity, many fish keepers begin their freshwater journey with fake plants, decor, substrate, hang on the back filter, and a simple LED light. This is the standard aquarium and the easiest route that can be taken. Once interest in the hobby continues, things can branch into more unique niches. Instead of a hang-on-the-back filter, maybe use a canister filter or no filter at all! Instead of a regular old light, a person can try using more intense lights that will give the ability to sustain plant life in the aquarium. The unique alterations that can be made are limitless but we will not be getting into the elaborate details in this article.
Paludariums
Paludariums are a little different from a standard aquarium. A paludarium has both a land mass and a water body inside of a glass box. This opens up many doors for hobbyists because now animals such as semi-terrestrial crabs, frogs, or other critters can be added into an enclosure. This type of setup requires a little more knowledge and work to put together. There is quite a bit of planning that must be done before creating a paludarium.
Unfortunately, the limited size of the paludariums does not allow for species mixing. For example, mixing fiddler crabs with fire-belly toads. There is a great chance they may become territorial in such a small space, see one another as potential food, or just compete for food within the enclosure. This could lead to stressful situations for the animals and possibly put them in dangerous situations.
There are many things to consider when setting up a paludarium such as: What animal will you be keeping? Do you want water filtration? Do you want a waterfall setup? How deep do you want the water body? How much landmass? What plants do you want to keep? What kind of fish? The questions go on and on, but I am trying to get your mind thinking of some of the considerations that need to be taken for a paludarium.
Setting up and keeping a paludarium running is more difficult than setting up a freshwater aquarium. It takes far more planning to get the design right and deciding what terrestrial and aquatic animals to put it can be a challenge.
Terrarium/Vivarium
Many people use these terms interchangeably but there is a difference between the two. A terrarium is designed to primarily raise plants and a vivarium is used to house an animal. A terrarium can have animals but it can just be a glass enclosure filled with unique and exotic plants. On the other hand, a vivarium is designed to house and recreate an animal’s habitat. Common animals that are placed in vivariums are Dart frogs, geckos, and frogs. Vivariums and terrariums do not have a water body to house fish and other aquatic animals but a vivarium may have a water dish for the critters to drink from. They can be microhabitats or enormous enclosures that fill a whole room’s wall. Terrariums and vivariums are easier to set up and maintain than a paludarium but are a little harder to keep than a freshwater aquarium.
Saltwater
There is a lot of intimidation for aquarists that are thinking of transitioning into keeping saltwater aquariums. I would not set up a saltwater aquarium as a beginner hobbyist. I would gain knowledge about a freshwater aquariums, dip my toes in live plants, and research saltwater aquarium setups and keeping. Once all that experience and knowledge is gained, only then would I consider setting up a saltwater aquarium. Keeping a saltwater aquarium is not that hard. Keeping it well is where the challenge is and the cost of setup and maintaining it is what scares many away. Try freshwater and if you enjoy fish keeping consider setting up a saltwater aquarium.
The two primary niches of keeping saltwater aquariums are reef tanks or fish only. Many who set up reef aquariums are doing it to end up growing coral in their aquarium. There are many critters in the saltwater hobby that are not compatible with reef aquariums. For example, pufferfish wholeheartedly love devouring hermits and snails that would normally be found in a reef. Parrot fish will graze down your stony coral with ease. There are starfish and urchins that will also destroy a reef system. These are just a few examples of incompatibilities between animals. Decide what fish you would like in your aquarium and that will determine whether a reef tank is good for you.
Fish Only Aquarium Setup
Fish-only aquariums will not have corals and may or may not do well with crustaceans. Predatory aquariums are usually why hobbyists do not build a reef aquariums. Common critters that are put into fish only systems are angelfish, lionfish, eels, pufferfish, parrotfish, wrasses, stingrays, and many more. This type of setup will need a large filter because of the dietary needs of most of the animals. A sump system is recommended with a very good protein skimmer. Usually predatory aquariums and fish only setups are large (125+ gallons). This is because many of your predatory fish get very large.
Reef Aquarium Setup
Reef aquariums are quite different. They need good lights for corals, they will have crustaceans, and they can be very small or very big. I would still recommend a sump system with a protein skimmer for reefs but I would also look into setting up a refugium in your sump for additional filtration. Larger systems are easier to maintain but there is quite a fondness for nano reefs as well.
There are many different types of coral which broaden the spectrum even more. SPS corals need pristine water conditions so are usually kept in an SPS reef aquarium, while other corals like zoas and leathers do need specific parameters and can be put into a mixed reef or a species-specific aquarium of their own.
There are hundreds of different reef-compatible fish and crustaceans. I will not be going into the details of this because there are so many. Think of the type of fish you would like and research what size fish tank it requires and whether it is reef safe. Also, check the temperament of the fish. Many are very peaceful but others will get territorial. These are the main parameters for these fish.
Saltwater aquariums will easily cost an aquarists hundreds to thousands of dollars to set up. Reef systems are especially costly due to the lighting needs and the addition of quite a bit of live rock. That is why making sure this hobby is for you is important before walking down this path. Saltwater aquariums are for hobbyists who know a thing or two about aquariums and understand how water systems work.
Ponds
Ponds are not as common in the hobby as the others. Many people do not have a yard large enough for a pond. Regardless, they are a great place to relax. The primary fish kept in a pond is a koi fish. They are very similar to goldfish but are usually longer and grow larger. Their colors are magnificent! Other animals that may naturally come around ponds are frogs and turtles.
Ponds also can have different plant matter growing in them. Lillies and floating water lettuce are two that come to mind that is quite commonly found in home ponds. They are a nice addition and provide cover for your fish from predators such as raccoons and herons. Also adding a little bit of green color never hurt.
There are many things to consider when setting up a pond. They can get quite expensive. Picking a location is important. More sunlight will lead to more algae growth in your pond but also too much shade may cause other plants from flourishing inside. During the initial setup, choosing a pond liner is very important. A durable liner may cost more at first but will hopefully prevent leaks from happening which will save you money and stress in the long run. A waterfall feature will add great aeration to the pond but a pond pump costs a lot of money! Think about other aerating fixtures to get oxygen into your system.
The following is more dependent on where you live. In the United States, the Midwest goes through four seasons. Pumps need to be shut off for the winter, koi need to be either taken inside or fattened up for the winter, springtime will lead to pond cleaning, and so on. The pond needs to be deep enough for fish to be kept in there through winter. These are obstacles that need to be overcome in the Midwest but it’s not as big of a problem in warm states like Florida or Arizona.
Ponds are wonderful! They are a great place just to cool down and enjoy nature in your backyard but they are quite difficult to maintain and can be costly. The chance of losing a fish to predators is unfortunate but it’s a risk that is taken by pond keepers due to its beauty! Quite a bit of research and preparation should be conducted before setting up a pond!
June 24, 2020