Dogface Puffers also known as the Blackspotted Puffer get their name from having a physical resemblance to canines. Dogface Puffer fish also have gray, brown, and yellow colorations as well as black spots on their bodies. These semi-aggressive fish have a great personality and are a thrill to keep in a large saltwater fish tank. This guide will cover Dogface Puffer fish aquarium requirements, feeding habits, compatible tank mates, and more. Check out the Saltwater Pufferfish page for more information on different species of puffer.
Aquarium Requirements
Dogface Puffers get large. They will grow to be over a foot in length. It will be important to provide them with an aquarium that is 150 gallons or larger to keep them happy. Because of their size and their carnivorous diet, they will also create a lot of poop, which will lead to increased levels of nitrates and phosphates. A very good filtration system and water changing schedule will be crucial in keeping your water parameters in check. A sump system with a great protein skimmer such as the Reef Octopus 150INT Protein Skimmer will help keep your aquarium water parameters in check.
I would also recommend providing your Dogface Puffer with plenty of live rock with different sized caves to give it cover. If you can’t find live rock at your local fish store, check out the Carib Sea South Sea Base Rock on Amazon.
Water Parameters
The water parameters needed to keep a Dogface Puffer are similar to what most saltwater fish require which are:
Water Temperature: 72°-78° F
dKH: 8 – 12
pH: 8.1 – 8.4
Salinity: 1.020 – 1.025 sg
Regular water changes with a high-quality salt mix with help keep your pH, dKH, and salinity in check. You will need a properly calibrated refractometer to verify proper salinity levels. Refractometers can be purchased on Amazon by following this link. Also, you will need an aquarium water heater to keep your water temperature at the proper level. Take a look at the 6 Best Water Heaters For Fresh & Saltwater Fish Tanks to get an idea of the different water heaters available for purchase.
Are Dogface Puffers Reef Safe?
Dogface Puffer fish are not reef safe. In the wild, their primary food source is invertebrates. This includes snails, shrimp, crabs, hermit crabs, and more. Although they do not readily eat coral, they may nip and break off pieces of coral trying to grind down their ever-growing beak. I would not risk keeping this species of fish in a reef tank. They do best in Fish-Only with live rock (FOWLR) aquariums.
Food & Diet
Dogface Puffers are carnivores. As stated earlier, they eat shrimp, snails, crabs, and more meaty food in the wild. They will likely need to consume frozen food such as krill, clams, and hard-shelled shrimp in a fish tank. These foods will help them grind their beak down to size. Also, if you have any live shrimp, snails, crabs, or other invertebrate, they will likely become a meal for your Puffer.
Tank Mates
There are a lot of different species of fish that can be kept with a Dogface Puffer. They will do well with fish such as Triggers, Large Angelfish, Eels, Large Wrasses, and other large carnivorous fish. It will do best with fish that grow larger but that is not very aggressive. Dogface Pufferfish may also nip on the fins of fish.
They are known to get picked on by other Pufferfish species such as the Porcupine Puffer. I would be weary of keeping the Dogface Puffer with other Pufferfish. Sometimes they successfully inhabit a fish tank together. It all depends on the temperament of the individual fish.
Are Dogface Puffer Fish Aggressive?
As stated earlier, the Dogface Puffer can potentially nip on the fins of other fish. They are labeled as semi-aggressive but they are usually more docile compared to other large Puffer Fish species.
Breeding
I would not recommend keeping more than one Dogface Puffer in a fish tank. This makes breeding this fish impossible.
Final Notes
Dogface Puffers are unique-looking fish that make a great addition to many large FOWLR aquariums. If you’re looking for a fish that will sort of act like an aquatic puppy, consider picking up a Dogface. Maintaining balanced water parameters may become a challenge but it is well worth it for this fish!
The Blue Spotted Puffer sometimes called the Blue Dot Puffer, or Blue Dot Toby is a species of pufferfish that is often kept in saltwater aquariums. It has gorgeous brown, tan, and yellow colorations as well as blue spots speckled across its body. Like other puffers, the Blue Dot Toby has a beaklike structure that is used to break through tough invertebrate exoskeletons.
Blue Spotted Pufferfish have fantastic personalities which may make them the centerpiece of any aquarium they are in. You can often find Blue Spotted Puffers for sale at LiveAquaria, Saltwaterfish.com, or check out your local fish stores! This guide will cover the aquarium requirements, food and diet, tank mates, and breeding of the Blue Spotted Puffer.
Aquarium Requirements
The Blue Spot Puffer will grow between 4 and 5 inches. An aquarium that is 55 gallons or larger will suit this fish incredibly well. It is beneficial to provide live rock with varying-sized caves and nooks for the fish to hide in. Monitoring the water for elevated levels of nitrates and phosphates because puffers can sometimes be sensitive to unbalanced waters. They will also require the following water parameters:
Water Temperature: 72°-78° F
dKH: 8 – 12
pH: 8.1 – 8.4
Salinity: 1.020 – 1.025 sg
Providing the following water parameters will help keep your fish healthy! A simple thermometer such as the Penn Plax floating thermometer can be used to check your water temperature. DKH levels can be tested using an API KH test kit or you can get fancy with a Hanna Instrument Alkalinity Check (HI772). pH levels can be tested using an API High-Range pH test kit. Lastly, I recommend checking your salinity using a refractometer over a hydrometer. Over time, hydrometers become less accurate because salt particles build up on the tool.
Is the Blue Spotted Puffer Reef Safe?
Like many other saltwater puffers, I would not consider the Blue Spot Puffer reef safe. They consume invertebrates and can potentially eat your coral. After doing some research, some reef keepers have claimed that their Blue Spot Puffers are model citizens around coral but others didn’t have such luck. Being safe with coral is likely dependent on the individual fish but I would not risk it.
Food & Diet
Blue Spotted Puffer fish eat primarily meaty foods. You will want to feed them an assortment of foods to help wear down their teeth. Great frozen foods for Blue Dot Tobys are krill, clams, squid, hard-shelled shrimp, and Mysis shrimp. I would feed your puffer a mix of these foods to provide them with a variety to help grind down their beak. I would also recommend occasionally feeding your puffer live hermit crabs or snails.
Tank Mates
Blue Spot Puffers are fairly peaceful. They can become territorial and may nip on other fish’s fins, but overall they keep to themselves. They should do well with clownfish, damsels, chromis, dwarf angels, wrasses, and other friendly and small saltwater fish. They should also do well with larger fish such as tangs, foxfaces, rabbitfish, and other peaceful large fish.
Breeding
I would not recommend keeping more than one Blue Spot Puffer in a fish tank. Because of this, breeding is impossible.
Final Notes
Blue Spot Tobys are beautiful and vibrant fish that can be kept in a saltwater fish tank. They are a great centerpiece for aquariums that are 55 gallons or larger. If you’re looking for something unique to keep in your saltwater fish tank, consider picking up a Blue Spot Puffer fish. Check out the Saltwater Pufferfish page for information are different puffer species.
The Valentini Puffer sometimes called the Saddle Valentini, or Blacksaddled Toby is a small species of pufferfish often kept in saltwater aquariums. It has beautiful black, white, and yellow colorations on its body. They also have spots running horizontally throughout their body. Valentini Puffers are known to have great personalities and become a highlight in a fish tank. They normally keep to themselves but are known to nip on fins from time to time.
Valentini Puffer fish puff up when they are threatened or in danger. It is important to avoid having them puff because it is stressful on their body. Also, part of the Saddle Valentini holds a toxin. It should generally not be dangerous to humans unless you decide to consume the puffer. This guide will cover Saddle Valentini aquarium requirements, food & diet, tank mates, breeding, and more!
Aquarium Requirements
The Blacksaddled Toby should be introduced into well-established saltwater fish tanks. It is recommended to add them into an aquarium using a container instead of a net if possible. They become more stressed when netted and will be more prone to puffing up.
The Black Saddle Puffer’s max length is about 4 inches. It will do well in an aquarium that is 30 gallons or larger. I would personally recommend keeping them in 40-gallon fish tanks or larger due to their diet and sensitivity to fluctuations in water parameters. More water volume will help prevent large swings in water parameters. Also, I recommend adding a lot of live rock with different sized caves to provide refuge for your pufferfish during times of stress.
Water Parameters
Water parameters for saltwater fish is generally the same. However, there are some outliers that have unique parameter requirements. Luckily the Valentini Pufferfish has fairly standard water parameter needs.
Water Temperature: 72°-78° F
dKH: 8 – 12
pH: 8.1 – 8.4
Salinity: 1.020 – 1.025 sg
Is The Valentini Puffer Reef Safe?
Valentini Pufferfish do best in fish-only with live rock (FOWLR) aquariums. They may seek out invertebrates in your fish tank and make them a quick meal. I have heard mixed opinions about keeping Blacksaddled Tobys with coral. Some reef keepers claim theirs are model citizens while others observed Valentini Pufferfish nipping their coral. The personality of the individual fish will determine whether they are safe with coral or not. I would personally only keep this species in fish-only aquariums, to avoid losing coral and invertebrates to a hungry Black Saddle Puffer.
Food & Diet
Valentini Pufferfish have a beak that grows throughout their lifespan. They require foods that are hard-shelled to help grind down their beak. They will happily munch on live snails, hermit crabs, and shrimp. Providing them with live saltwater invertebrates can become incredibly expensive over time. Luckily, some foods are good replacements for live inverts. Frozen foods such as clams, krill, and squid are great to help grind down this puffer’s beak. Although they may not help grind their beak down, I would also recommend feeding Valentini Puffers Mysis Shrimp and Brine Shrimp.
Tank Mates
Black saddled Puffers are fairly peaceful in fish tanks. If plenty of live rock and hiding spaces are provided, they should keep to themselves. They will do best with similarly sized fish such as Clownfish, Damsels, Wrasses, and Dwarf Angels. In appropriately sized fish tanks, they will likely get along with a few larger fish like Tangs and Foxfaces. There are many other fish Valentini Puffers can get along with, but I just wanted to give you a general idea.
I would not recommend keeping this puffer fish with another Valentini Puffer because they will likely become territorial and aggressive toward one another. To play it safe, I would not recommend mixing Valentini Pufferfish with other puffer species.
Breeding
Due to their potentially territorial nature, I would not keep more than one Valentini Pufferfish in an aquarium. This makes breeding impossible.
Final Notes
Valentini Pufferfish are gorgeous fish with incredible personalities. If you decide to pick one up, it’ll likely become the centerpiece of your fish tank. It is important to keep up with this fish’s need to grind its beak down, but that will come naturally with the provided food. Check out the Saltwater Pufferfish page for information on different species of puffer!
The Porcupine Puffer also known as the Porcupinefish is a very smart and interactive fish that can be kept in a saltwater fish tank. They have beautiful brown and black patterns all over their body and gorgeous deep blue eyes. Porcupine Pufferfish have a beak-like structure that resembles teeth that continuously grow. They can also puff up to about twice their body size when they are stressed. The act of puffing up is a defense mechanism so the less it puffs up, the better for the fish’s health. This article will cover the Porcupine Puffer’s aquarium requirements, food and diet needs, tank mates, and more.
Aquarium Requirements
Porcupine Puffers get incredibly large, they can be about a foot long at their max size. A full grown Porcupine Puffer should not be kept in an aquarium smaller than 180 gallons with plenty of space to swim. Because of their diets and messy habits, saltwater puffer fish should have a very good protein skimmer running to help remove waste. I have had great luck with the Reef Octopus brand, the Reef Octopus Classic 150SSS Protein Skimmer will do great on a large saltwater fish tank.
Porcupinefish Water Parameters
Porcupine Puffers have very similar water parameter requirements to other saltwater fish. The following are water parameters required to keep the Porcupinefish happy.
Temperature: 72-78° F
pH: 8.1-8.4
Salinity: 1.020-1.025
dKH 8-12
Food & Diet
The Porcupine Pufferfish’s diet consists mostly of snails, crabs, clams, and many other invertebrates. The hard skeletons and shells of these animals help the Pufferfish to grind down their teeth that continuously grow. In an aquarium, their diet should consist of a variety of meaty food such as clams, krill, squid, and hard-shelled shrimp. I would also include lives snails and hermit crabs in their diet as well.
Are Porcupine Puffers Reef Safe?
Part of being reef safe means being safe with invertebrates such as snails, crabs, and clams. Technically, the Porcupine Puffer is not reef safe. Also, I have read mixed thoughts on keeping them with corals. There is a possibility that these puffers will nip on live rock to file down their teeth. This means they can accidentally bite SPS coral. I have also read that Porcupine Pufferfish have been seen biting other coral species such as zoanthids. Heavy feeding may help deter your Pufferfish from eating coral, but that seems to completely depend on the individual fish. I’d be too paranoid about keeping a Porcupinefish in a reef tank.
Porcupine Puffer Tank Mates
This species of fish is known to be fairly aggressive that sometimes nips on other fish. They will do best in an aquarium that has other semi-aggressive fish. Check out 5 Unique Predatory Fish for Saltwater Aquariums to get an idea of other fish that can be kept with Porcupine Puffers. There are more large saltwater fish that will do fine with this puffer species such as tangs, foxfaces, groupers, angels, eels, and more. Be mindful that the puffer fish may try to eat smaller fish that fit into its mouth.
As stated above, Porcupine Pufferfish are not reef safe and should not be kept with any shrimp, snails, crab, and clam. They may be fine for a little while, but eventually the puffer will find these invertebrates and make them lunch.
Breeding
This species of puffer is incredibly territorial and two of the same species should not be kept together in a fish tank. This makes breeding pretty much impossible.
Final Notes
Porcupine Puffers are incredibly fun to keep, but it’s important to keep them in an enclosure that is compatible for them. Keep in mind they can become nippy, are not reef safe, but are very personable and exciting to observe. If you are setting up a Fish Only With Live Rock (FOWLR) consider adding this species of fish into the aquarium.
The Sixline Wrasse sometimes spelled Six Line Wrasse, or 6 Line Wrasse, is a species of fish commonly found in the aquarium keeping hobby. This species has six distinct horizontal lines running across its body. It has striking purple, pink, and green colorations on its body. It is an iconic species in fish-only aquariums or reef tanks. There is a general misconception about this fish. Some people ask, “Are Sixline Wrasse evil?” The answer is no, they’re not evil but they can become territorial so it’s common to introduce this wrasse later into your aquarium. This allows other fish to establish their territories. This article will discuss Six Line Wrasse Aquarium Requirements, Food & Diet, Common Tank Mates, and more.
Aquarium Requirements
The Sixline Wrasse grows to a max size of about 3 inches. It will do well in both fish-only and reef tanks that are 30 gallons or larger. They do best in a fish tank filled with live rock with holes of varying sizes. This will allow them to be active and explore, while also providing them with cover when stressed. Like many other wrasse species, the Six Line Wrasse can jump out of the fish tank. Consider providing a well-fitted cover to prevent jumping.
Food & Diet
The Six Line Wrasse is a carnivore. It will likely feed on flatworms, copepods, and bristleworms in the aquarium, but they should be provided with additional food such as Mysis Shrimp and Brine Shrimp. They will readily take pellet food and flake food. They are not picky eaters, but if you have one that isn’t eating, consider soaking its food in Selcon or Garlic. Check out this article that talks about some of the benefits of feeding garlic to fish.
Tank Mates
Overall, the Sixline should do perfectly fine with most peaceful fish in an aquarium. This includes Clownfish, Firefish, Dwarf Angelfish, Anthias, Blennies, and much more. They should do well with larger fish such as Foxface, Butterflyfish, and Tangs. I would avoid keeping them with fish that may make a snack out of your Sixline Wrasse such as Groupers and Pufferfish. Other Wrasses may be attacked by the Sixline Wrasse as well.
The Six Line Wrasse is reef safe. It will do well with snails, shrimp, hermit crabs, and coral. Keeping Cleaner Shrimp with Sixline Wrasse should be perfectly fine. If you see them picking on coral, they’re likely just picking out the flatworms, or bristleworms within.
Breeding
Because of their territorial nature, I would not keep more than one Sixline Wrasse in an aquarium. This makes breeding almost impossible.
Final Notes
The Sixline Wrasse is a great addition to any reef tank. As long as you are cautious about their territorial habits, you should have great success with this easy-to-care-for fish. They’re usually great about eating pests such as bristleworms and flatworms. They also provide plenty of activity in a fish tank. If your fish tank allows, really consider getting yourself a Six Line Wrasse!
The Yellow Banded Possum Wrasse also known as the Pygmy Possum Wrasse is a species of carnivorous saltwater fish found in this hobby. It is a peaceful fish with beautiful red, orange, and yellow coloration on its body. The Banded Possum Wrasse stays relatively small and is an excellent fish for fish-only and reef tanks. Pygmy Possum Wrasses are known to come with internal parasites. It is recommended to quarantine your fish and medicate them before adding them into the aquarium. This article will go into detail on the Possum Wrasse’s aquarium needs, food & diet, and compatible tank mates.
Aquarium Requirements
Because the Yellow Banded Possum Wrasse’s max size is 3″, it will do well in aquariums that are 10 gallons or larger. It is important to provide plenty of hiding spaces in the aquarium. Most hobbyists use live rock to provide a natural aquascape for their saltwater fish tanks.
A tightly fitted lid is also recommended for the aquarium because the Pygmy Possum Wrasse is known to jump out of the aquarium.
Food & Diet
The Possum Wrasse is a carnivorous animal, it is very important to provide it with high-quality foods such as Mysis Shrimp, Spirulina Brine Shrimp, and Pellet/Flake Food. They are not known to be finicky eaters and usually readily take food when introduced into a fish tank. If they are stubborn and avoid eating food, consider mixing the food with Selcon or soaking the food in garlic before feeding. Check out this article about the benefits of dipping your fish food in garlic.
Tank Mates
In appropriately sized aquariums, Yellow Banded Possum Wrasses should do well with other peaceful saltwater fish. It should be fine with clownfish, dwarf angelfish, firefish, tangs, foxfaces, and much more. I would avoid keeping them with fish that can fit the Possum Wrasse in its mouth. I would also avoid mixing wrasses because many do not get along.
In a large enough aquarium, 1 male can be housed with multiple females. The males are often more vibrantly colored compared to the females of the species. If possible, I would introduce them all at the same time, or introduce the females first and bring in the male after the females are established.
This wrasse species is reef safe. It should not bother any of your coral or invertebrates. The Yellow Banded Possum Wrasse may eat flatworms and bristleworms but if you have an outbreak of bristle/flatworms, I have more confidence in different wrasse species such as the Sixline Wrasse, Yellow Wrasse, or Melanurus Wrasse.
Breeding
I do not have any information regarding breeding. Many saltwater fish are incredibly hard or impossible to breed in an aquarium.
Final Notes
Possum Wrasses are interesting fish that can be kept in a reef tank or fish-only aquarium. Their unique body and coloration make them a fantastic addition to your aquarium. They’re also great because they can be added to nano saltwater tanks. If you have more information on Possum Wrasses please share!
The Pearly Jawfish (Opistognathus aurifrons), sometimes called the Yellowhead Jawfish, is a gorgeous fish kept in the fishkeeping hobby. This fish has a white/blue body and a yellow head. These colors are not commonly seen on fish. It is a burrowing species of fish that can be very timid, especially when first introduced. However, they are very peaceful fish and spend most of their time in and around their burrow.
Opistognathus aurifrons grow to be about 4 inches when they are fully grown. Although they do not require an incredibly large fish tank, they still require a deep substrate which we will cover later. The Pearly Jawfish is reef safe, but may “spit” sandy substrate onto coral that are around its burrow. This article will go further into detail and also discuss Pearly Jawfish care, aquarium requirements, diets and more. If you’re curious about jawfish, check out the Blue Spot Jawfish Care Guide as well!
Aquarium Requirements
If you are looking to keep a single Pearly Jawfish, it does best in aquariums that are 30 gallons or larger. Be mindful because there may be aggression between Jawfish and gobies for real estate in your fish tank. Yellowhead Jawfish also do best with sand beds that are at least 4 inches deep but more is always better! CaribSea Fiji Pink Sand is a great Pearly Jawfish substrate. I would also recommend providing rock rubble around the fish tank because I have seen Pearly Jawfish use small pieces of rock to help stabilize their burrow.
To my knowledge, all Jawfish are known to be excellent jumpers. A tight-fitting lid is incredibly important if you are trying to prevent your fish from jumping to its demise.
Food and Diet
Pearly Jawfish are primarily carnivorous animals. Regardless, I have seen them happily eat pellet food as well. It is good to provide an assortment of food for your Jawfish. I would feed mine Mysis Shrimp, Brine Shrimp, Krill, and New Life Spectrum Marine Formula. When I first introduced a Pearly Jawfish into my aquarium, I would use a long turkey baster, like this one, to feed it. I sucked up the food into the syringe and tried to get as close to its burrow. I would then release the food. I did this because at first my Jawfish was incredibly skittish and would disappear into its burrow during feeding time.
Tank Mates
I would recommend keeping your Pearly Jawfish in a fairly peaceful aquarium. It does great with fish such as Clownfish, Tangs, Dwarf Angelfish, Chromis, Firefish, Hawkfish, and many other community fish. There may be some territorial disputes with gobies, but in a large enough aquarium each should find their spot. I would avoid keeping your Jawfish with larger fish like Lionfish, Pufferfish, Groupers, and other fish that may consider a Pearly Jawfish food.
In a large enough aquarium, you may be able to keep multiple Pearly Jawfish together. I would personally start considering keeping multiple in 75 gallon aquariums. Be sure you provide deep sand beds for your Jawfish.
Pearly Jawfish and Pistol Shrimp
Unfortunately, the two fish will not share a hole. The good news is, that they should be able to co-exist in a fish tank. Check out Watchman Gobies if you are looking for a fish that is compatible with a Pistol Shrimp.
Breeding
It is possible to successfully breed Pearly Jawfish. You can’t tell the difference between males and females of this species by appearance. If breeding is successful, males will hold the eggs in their mouths. I have not ever attempted to breed this fish species, but I can imagine it being incredibly difficult to separate the eggs from its parents. If you have had any luck, let me know!
Final Notes
Pearly Jawfish are beautiful saltwater fish with very interesting personalities. If you have the proper setup, I would highly recommend giving them a try! They’re very fun to observe, especially around feeding time when they dart out of their burrow to grab some food.
Harlequin Tusk fish (Choerodon fasciatus) is a species of saltwater wrasse that can be found in the Indian Ocean and Australia. They are very similar in appearance in both regions however, the Australian Harlequin Tusk has more pronounced blue streaks running vertically throughout its body. This fish species always gets heads turning because of its eye-catching coloration. On top of the beautiful colors on this fish, it also sports blue pointy teeth that will make you think twice before putting your hand in the fish tank.
Choerodon fasciatus will be 10 inches when it is fully grown. You should also be very cautious if you plan on keeping this fish in a reef tank. This guide will discuss why and also how to care for Harlequin Tusks. If you know all about the Harlequin Tusks, consider checking out 5 Unique Predatory Fish for Saltwater Aquariums!
Aquarium Requirements
Because of how large Choerodon fasciatus becomes, it is recommended for fish tanks that are 125 gallons or larger. The aquarium itself should have plenty of rockwork that creates different sized caves for the Harlequin Tusk. Juveniles of this species are often very timid so it is great to provide hiding spaces.
Most saltwater fish have similar water parameter requirements. That is not any different with Harlequins. This fish does best under the following water parameters:
Temperature: 72°-78° F
DKH: 8-12
pH: 8.1-8.4
Salinity: 1.020-1.025 sg
From my experiences and research, it does not seem like Harlequin Tusks are known to be jumpers. However, a well-fitted lid is always recommended because you never know with fish.
Is the Harlequin Tusk Reef Safe?
These fish are cautiously kept in reef tanks, primarily because although they will not eat your coral, they will devour most invertebrates that are in the aquarium. However, they are often kept in Fish Only With Live Rock (FOWLR) aquariums.
Food and Diet
The Harlequin Tusk fish is strictly a carnivorous fish. They hunt and prey on small invertebrates such as snails, crabs, shrimp, and more in the wild. Their diet should replicate something similar to what they would eat in the wild. When they are small, they can be fed an assortment of Mysis Shrimp, Brine Shrimp, and Krill. Once they are older, Mysis Shrimp and Brine Shrimp may not sustain a hungry Harlequin Tusk. I would recommend feeding it larger meaty foods such as Krill, Clam on a Half shell, and squid. They may also eat large pellets and flake food. Most invertebrates are not safe with this fish in the aquarium. Harlequin Tusks and Cleaner Shrimp are not even a safe combination.
Do Harlequin Tusk Eat Aptasia
There is very little information on whether Harlequin Tusks eat aptasia. I can safely assume that they will not eat aptasia because they will not mess with coral or anemones in a reef tank. If anyone has any concrete information on this, please share! If you need to remove aptasia, consider purchasing peppermint shrimp but beware because they may destroy other coral.
Do Harlequin Tusk Eat Bristleworms?
Being invertebrates and Harlequin Tusks being wrasses, I can assume that this fish species will eat bristleworms. Perhaps not as well as a Sixline Wrasse or Arrow Crab, but Harlequin Tusks should eat some bristleworms when the opportunity arises. However, I do not have concrete evidence to prove this.
Do Harlequin Tusk Eat Clams?
Most of the searching I have done assumes that Harlequin Tusks do not eat clams. Being the rowdy carnivores that they are, I would still be a little cautious owning clams and Harlequins.
Tank Mates
The Harlequin Tusk has a reputation for starting life as a small timid fish, but it becomes more aggressive once it settles into a fish tank and grows. Choerodon fasciatus should be kept with fish that grow larger and can hold their own. I would recommend fish such as Triggerfish, Surgeonfish/tangs, Lionfish, large Angelfish, and Groupers. Smaller fish such as Chromis, Clownfish, Firefish, and many others are commonly eaten by Harlequin Tusks. Also, there may be increased aggression and fighting towards other wrasses.
Can you Keep More Than One Harlequin Tusk?
The simple answer is no. Harlequin Tusks become incredibly territorial and aggressive when they are grown and will fight others of their species. They wreak havoc on other fish and wrasses of different species, so it’s a bad idea to consider adding two Choerodon fasciatus together. Our aquariums are not large enough to comfortably keep more than one in a system.
Breeding
Breeding is not really possible with this species in an aquarium setting. They are incredibly territorial and will fight their own species. Also, it’s incredibly hard and/or impossible to determine whether saltwater fish are males or females.
Final Notes
Harlequin Tusks are probably one of the most beautiful saltwater fish available. If you can look passed their temperament (and their cost) I would highly recommend them if you have the correct setup. If you’re not ready to pick up a Harlequin Tusk, check out some other fish that are great for 30 Gallon Aquariums.
The Blue Spot Jawfish is an incredibly gorgeous fish with a yellow/orange/black body with vibrant blue spots seen throughout. This amazing fish spends most of its time digging burrows and perfecting its home. Growing to be about 3.5 inches in lengh, the Blue Spot Jawfish requires a deep sand bed to keep it comfortable. Also, having a lot of sifting space will help keep this fish satisfied. It can be aggressive towards other jawfish but it normally does not bother other inhabitants in the aquarium. It is a little tougher to keep because it known to jump out of the aquarium and making sure it is being fed isn’t always easy. Many fish keepers are weary about keeping this fish because of the difficulty in keeping it alive.
Aquarium Requirements
The Blue Spot Jawfish doesn’t fare well in anything smaller than a 30 gallon fish tank because of its length when fully grown. It will require a deep sand bed of at least 3 inches but more is preferred. A tightly sealed lid is a must because this species of fish will jump out of your aquarium. The water parameter requirements for the Blue Spot Jawfish are similar to many other marine fish:
Water Temperature 72 – 78 degrees Fahrenheit
pH 8.0 – 8.4
KH 8 – 12
Salinity 1.020 and 1.025 sg.
These water parameters will help keep your fish happy and healthy. The most important thing with water parameters is stability. Swinging water parameters can be detrimental to a fish.
Food & Diet
The Blue Spot Jawfish is a carnivorous fish and its diet should reflect that. Blue Spot Jawfish eat mysis shrimp, brine shrimp and pellet food. We encourage to feed the fish multiple times a day. Blue Spot Jawfish will also sift through sand and consume copeopods that are within the sand.
After introducing a jawfish into the aquarium, I normally siphon food into a coral feeder. Then, place the feeder close to the Blue Spot’s burrow and release food. This guarantees a successful feeding and makes sure the Blue Spot Jawfish is not getting outcompeted for food. After doing this for a week or so and seeing the jawfish successfully eat, I normally stop feeding it with a coral feeder and let it collect food on its own. I normally use mysis shrimp and/or pellet food when feeding.
Tank Mates
The Blue Spot Jawfish is a pretty stand up citizen in the aquarium. This fish is completely reef safe and it will also not normally bother other fish in the aquarium and will do great with fish such as:
Clownfish
Dottybacks
Dwarf Angelfish
Wrasses
Anthias
But it fares well with many other fish. The problems arise when more jawfish or gobies are introduced into the aquarium. This species of jawfish does not like having other jawfish or gobies in its domain. In incredibly large fish tanks they should be able to figure out territories. Regardless, keeping two or more jawfish or a jawfish with a goby is not recommended. The only exception is a mated pair of Blue Spots.
Breeding
Keeping this fish happy and alive is challenging but breeding is even more challenging. There isn’t much information floating around about how to breed this fish but the most challenging part is definitely finding a mated pair.
Final Notes
Although this fish is probably one of the most beautiful ones on the market, the challenge of keeping it alive sometimes outweighs the desire of keeping it in the home aquarium. Take all the pre-cautions before adding this fish into the aquarium. The color patterns and personality are phenomenal and it’s an excellent addition to any saltwater fish tank.
Banggai Cardinals also known as the Kaudern’s Cardinalfish are fairly common saltwater fish with a very unique body shape and color pattern. These hardy fish are usually some of the first fish purchased for a saltwater aquarium because they are fairly inexpensive and not too finicky. They will grow to be around 3 inches in length when they are fully grown but should be kept alone or in pairs when keeping them in smaller aquariums. This guide will go into detail about the needs of this fish.
Aquarium Requirements
Kaudern’s Cardinalfish do not require an incredible amount of space and a pair (male/female) will do well in saltwater fish tanks that are 30 gallons or larger. They may become aggressive if two males are kept together. It is possible to keep them in small groups when the aquarium is 100 gallons or larger but be mindful of potential aggression. The Banggai Cardinal has similar water parameter requirements to most other saltwater fish which are:
Temperatures (72-78 degrees Fahrenheit)
dKH levels between 8 and 12
salinity levels between 1.020 and 1.025 sg
pH levels between 8.1 and 8.4
Just like most other fish in an aquarium, the Kaudern’s Cardinal prefers having quite a bit of live rock with holes and caves of varying size. This will give the fish spots to hide when it stressed and also a place to go when the lights are off. More hiding spaces will help settle some territorial disputes as well.
Food & Diet
The Banggai Cardinalfish is a carnivore so providing meaty food such as mysis shrimp is a must. There are many other feeding options such as, spirulina brine shrimp, pellet food and flake food. This fish may be a little picky when it comes to feeding on pellets and flakes so pay close attention to what the Banggai Cardinal eats.
Tank Mates
Banggai Cardinals are fairly peaceful and will primarily fight over territories with others of its species or similarly shaped fish like pajama cardinals. They are slow moving fish so sharing a tank with other peaceful fish is the best route to successfully keep this fish. They normally do well with:
Clownfish
Dwarf Angels
Anthias
Basslets
Blennies
Gobies
Tangs
The Kaudern’s Cardinalfish is completely reef safe. It should not bother any coral or invertebrate in the aquarium. Also, like stated earlier, they will do well as a male and female pair in smaller fish tanks but should be fine in small groups when fish tanks become 100 gallons or larger.
Breeding
Banggai Cardinalfish are fairly easy to breed but some work must be done in order to keep the fry alive. To begin, a pair must be found in order to breed successfully. It is hard to find the sex of males and females because they look very similar. When hunting for a pair of cardinals, observe their behavior in the fish tank. In a group, the dominant male will push away any competition and spend a lot of time with one other fish, the female. Keep an eye out for that when looking for a pair.
Once paired, keeping the male and female happy and fed will increase your chances of acquiring babies. Providing an urchin in the aquarium is not mandatory but it is beneficial to giving them the feeling of being in the wild.
The male will hold the babies in his mouth so making sure the male is well fed before holding the brood in his mouth is very important. The male will not eat as it is holding the offspring. The female will be the primary defense for the male when he is in this vulnerable state.
Once the fry leave the male they may spend their time in-between an urchin’s spines. They will most likely perish if there are other fish in the aquarium. Also, it is very important to have live baby brine shrimp ready to feed the offspring once they leave the males mouth. It is important to feed the babies multiple times a day.
Final Notes
Banggai Cardinalfish are very interesting and easy to care for fish. They may not be for everyone but they’re fantastic for anyone who loves their unique shape and color pattern. It is one of the few fish in the saltwater hobby that can quite easily breed in captivity and growing a brood to adulthood is always exciting!
Predatory fish tanks are both fun and rewarding without the hassle of attempting to keep coral alive. Most saltwater fish have vibrant colors with remarkable personalities that will keep you entertained for years! This guide will showcase 5 unique and interesting saltwater fish that may do well in a predatory aquarium.
1. Harlequin Tuskfish
The Harlequin Tusk comes from two different bodies of water. One can be found in the Indian Ocean and the other in Australia. Regardless, it is one of the most beautifully colored fish available to purchase in this hobby. The Australian’s coloration is just a tad more vibrant and pronounced.
This fish will become around 10″ when it is fully sized. It requires an aquarium that is 125 gallons or larger. Provide a lot of rock so it has places to hide and to allow it to set up its territory. It has very similar water parameter needs to most other saltwater fish which are:
Water Temperature between 72 – 78 degrees Fahrenheit
dKH levels between 8 and 12
pH levels between 8.1 and 8.4
salinity levels between 1.020 and 1.025 sg
When first introduced into a fish tank, the Harlequin Tusk may be very shy and hide in rock work. Once it becomes acclimated into the aquarium it will begin to show their true character. Harlequin Tusks are wonderful fish to have in a FOWLR (Fish only with live rock) aquariums with similarly sized fish. They do very well with Large angelfish, tangs, foxfaces, small triggers and larger wrasses. Only one Harlequin Tusk should be kept in an aquarium!
The Harlequin Tusk will not bother coral but invertebrates such as shrimp, snails, crabs, and many others will become lunch. Small fish may also become lunch for this fish due to its carnivorous tastes. Check out the Harlequin Tusk Complete Care Guide for more information on this fish!
2. Porcupine Pufferfish
Have you ever seen a fish with colored eyes? If you haven’t, check out the Porcupine Puffer! This fish is unique because it doesn’t have pelvic fins so its body shape is much different from other fish. It also takes on the characteristics of a curious toddler and playful puppy. The highly curious, intelligent and gorgeous Porcupine Pufferfish is a fantastic predator fish to keep in a FOWLR aquarium.
When it is fully grown it will be roughly one foot in length. It should be housed in a 180 gallon aquarium when it becomes this size with a well running protein skimmer. Its water parameters are nearly identical to the Harlequin Tusk.
Water Temperature between 72 – 78 degrees Fahrenheit
dKH levels between 8 and 12
pH levels between 8.1 and 8.4
salinity levels between 1.020 and 1.025 sg
The Porcupine Puffer does well with many other predators in an aquarium. Similar to the Harlequin Tusk, the Porcupine Pufferfish will do well with large tangs, foxface, large angelfish, triggers, large wrasses and eels! They may nip on tank mates, so be prepared to see round holes in other fish’s fins. I personally would not recommend a pufferfish in a reef tank because crustaceans like shrimp, crabs, clams and snails are their natural prey and they will spend their time foraging for them. The Porcupine Puffers beak constantly grows so they may nip on coral and live rock to try to grind down their beaks.
Food such as snails, crabs, shrimp and clams will help help grind down this fish’s teeth. It will also happily feed on krill, mysis shrimp, and possibly silversides. For more information, check out the Porcupine Puffer Complete Care Guide.
3. Volitan Lionfish
The Volitan Lionfish may seem like a decile and elegant fish but they are incredible predators that will consume just about any fish that will fit into its mouth. Also known as the Turkeyfish, this animal has many very pronounced fins all over its body that gives it a very unique appearance. Its very powerful colorations make it a visual spectacle! First they’re very shy and hide in aquariums but once acclimated, they become more active and swim in the open.
The Volitan Lionfish grows to be over a foot in length and it will require a fish tank that is a minimum of 120 gallons in size with plenty of hiding spots to keep it happy. They have similar water parameter requirements as the Harlequin Tusk and Porcupine Pufferfish with the exception being that they prefer salinity ranging between 1.021 and 1.023.
This species of lionfish becomes incredibly large so finding tank mates that will do well with it may be a bit more challenging. Fish that are at least 75% of the lionfish’s size are recommended. The Volitan Lionfish will try to eat anything and everything that can fit into its mouth. Tangs, butterflyfish, eels, groupers and triggers are all candidates that will usually do well with a lionfish. Unfortunately, most crustaceans become food for a lionfish.
Lionfish can be fed an assortment of live and frozen foods. The goal is to feed your Lionfish frozen food and occasionally feed something live. Many hobbyists feed Volitan Lionfish silversides, frozen squid, uncooked shrimp and pre-made frozen foods found at pet stores.
A lionfish has spines that are quite venomous and are far more painful than a bee sting. The venom is not normally lethal but precaution should be taken especially if you are sensitive to stings from animals. If stung, remove any spines that have broken into your skin, and place the affected body part into hot but tolerable water. Keep your appendage in this water for roughly 30 to 45 minutes. We recommend seeing medical attention for extra precaution.
4. Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasse
The Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasse is not your normal predator. This one does not get insanely large like many others but it is an excellent fish for a predator aquarium. This fish does not have a big appetite, it does not swallow prey whole, but it does enjoy removing parasites off fish!
This fish reaches roughly 5.5 inches in length when full size. It also has a very active personality so should be kept in aquariums that are 90 gallons or larger to provide adequate swimming space. This wrasse’s water parameters are the same as the Porcupine Puffer and Harlequin Tusk. We encourage using a tightly sealed lid because of this fish’s jumping tendency. Unlike the rest of the fish on this list, the Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasse is reef safe!
A big fish tank with large fish are great for the Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasse because it can be a finicky eater at times and only consume what can be found in the fish tank. Its primary diet consists of parasites that attach to fish’s mouths, gills and scales but it can also eat meaty foods such as:
Mysis Shrimp
Brine Shrimp
Small Pellet Food
Flake Food
If your fish is being a finicky eater try feeding with garlic or garlic extract. Be sure to check out this article for information on garlic and feeding fish!
The Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasse will do perfectly well with fish such as tangs, angels, groupers, foxface, eels, triggers and pufferfish! Be careful because the cleaner wrasse may fight with other wrasses and they are a hit or miss with lionfish.
5. Blue Throat Triggerfish
The Blue Throat Trigger is a gorgeous fish that finds a home in many predator tanks. It has a couple of unique features that differ from all the other fish on this list. First, the Blue Throat Trigger has different color patterns depending on whether it is male or female! The male will be a darker color with a blue throat and a female will normally be much lighter in color without the blue coloration. This fish also has the capability to grunt under water which is quite a funny thing to listen for.
The Blue Throat Trigger will grow to around 9 inches in length and requires a minimum of 125 gallons of water. The fish tank should provide quite a bit of live rock so the trigger can hide. Live rock needs to be very large or placed securely because Blue Throat Triggers move them. The water parameters of a Blue Throat Trigger are identical to the Porcupine Puffer, Harlequin Tusk and Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasse.
Like many other triggers, the Blue Throat’s teeth continuously grow and it will require foods that help grind down the teeth. Snails, hard shelled shrimp, and clams are all excellent foods to give your trigger to help grind down its teeth. It can also be fed squid, krill and mysis if it is incredibly small. The Blue Throat is considered to not be 100% reef safe because it will most likely destroy a clean up crew population. Although less common, it has the potential to nip on coral and knock things over when it decides to break rocks and move things around to find prey.
This fish does well with eels, squirrelfish, lionfish, groupers, hawkfish, large angels, tangs and pufferfish. They have incredibly sharp teeth and can provide a nasty bite when threatened but overall they are a fantastic fish to have in a predator aquarium!
Final Notes
There are so many different predatory fish available on the market but these 5 have some unique features. They are all gorgeous and may be fantastic additions to an already established fish tank! If you do not know your fish tanks size but want to figure out the volume of water before adding any of these fish be sure to check out the aquarium volume calculator here!
Snowflake Eels (Echidna nebulosa) otherwise known as Starry Moray or Snowflake Moray Eel, are interesting animals kept in aquariums. They are commonly found in predatory tanks but are occasionally added into reef tanks! This guide will give insight on Snowflake Eel aquarium requirements, feeding, and other information for anyone interested in this fish.
Fish Information
Snowflake Eels are incredibly easy to care for. They are very hardy and an excellent introductory eel for new hobbyists. They are considered semi-aggressive and are nocturnal predators usually hunting and ambushing crustaceans such as shrimp and crabs. In an aquarium, it is common to see them poke their heads out of rocks during feedings. They use two sets of jaws to grab prey and drag it down into their gullet during feeding. Be cautious when keeping this fish in a reef tank because it consumes crustaceans. It may knock corals over since it stays inside and very close to live rock. The Snowflake Eel will be roughly 2 feet (60cm) in length when it is grown in captivity. It is possible for them to be larger in the wild.
Aquarium Requirements
When fully sized, the Snowflake Eel should be kept in fish tanks that are 50 gallons or larger. A well covered top is needed because this fish is known to be one of the best escape artists. Because of its size and temperament, the eel should have quite a bit of live rock with varying hole sizes. This will give it room to move around, hide when threatened, and provide similar habitat it experience in the wild.
Snowflake Eels do best in water temperatures ranging from 72 – 78 degrees Fahrenheit, dKH levels between 8 and 12, pH levels ranging between 8.1 and 8.4 and lastly salinity levels between 1.020 and 1.025 sg. As stated before, they are quite hardy and have a nice range of water parameters they can tolerate.
Food & Diet
Snowflake Eels are carnivorous animals and require a nice range of foods. There is a wide variety of food that it can eat such as:
A Snowflake Eel can also be handfed but caution must be taken because they can give a powerful bite! It is best to start handfeeding when the moray is small to minimize risk of getting bitten or at least to receive a smaller bite. It is a predator so it may mistaken your fingers for a quick snack!
Tank Mates
The Snowflake Moray Eel can be kept with fish that are larger in size and that won’t easily fit into the eel’s mouth. They should do fine with coral, snails, anemones and sea urchins, but not crustaceans such as crabs, lobsters and shrimp. Keep in mind that this species of eel will become quite large so fish that are larger than its mouth at first, may not be in the future.
Eels are commonly kept in larger aquariums with bigger and sometimes more aggressive fish. They are commonly kept with tangs, large angelfish, lionfish, foxface, groupers and large wrasses.
It is possible to keep 2 Snowflake Eels in a marine tank together. The eels should be introduced at the same time and they should also be similar in size. Snowflake Eels are cannibals and if the opportunity to eat a much smaller eel arises, it will do so! I would personally not keep 2 Snowflake Eels in a fish tank together unless it is 150 gallons or larger. They are quite territorial and larger aquariums will give them more room to create their own territory.
Breeding
Breeding Snowflake Eels has not really been conducted in captivity because of their mating rituals, inability to distinguish between male and female, and rarity in acquiring a mating pair.
Final Comments
Snowflake Eels are a fantastic fish for a saltwater aquarium. They all have very unique personalities and are quite active moving within the live rock scaping of your aquarium. Be mindful of the fact that eels are escape artists and if a well sealed lid is not provided there is a high possibility of them jumping out!
A nano reef is typically considered to be 30 gallons or less. The smaller the aquarium the larger the possibility of swinging water parameters. It is not recommended to add large fish or too many fish in a nano aquarium. Nano reef systems are a challenge but a rewarding experience. This guide will list 5 fish species that will do great in small reef aquariums.
1. Hector’s Goby
The Hector’s Goby is a fantastic addition to any reef system. It is a very peaceful fish and it will not bother any fish or invertebrate. It will graze on hair algae that grow in the aquarium and also feast on small worms in the fish tank.
This goby maxes out at about 3″ in length and it will be perfectly happy living in an aquarium that is a minimum of 10 gallons. They do require a fair amount of live rock with plenty of crevices and hiding spots. They will seamlessly weave in and out of rock looking for food and algae to graze on.
Their pattern work and coloration are beautiful! They have alternating red/black and yellow stripes running down from head to tail, they have round blotches of black along their dorsal fins and hints of orange around their fins as well.
They are omnivorous so providing a variation of algae based food and meaty food such as mysis shrimp is important. They will spend much of their time looking for food in rocks and sand. As a final note, Hector’s Gobies are completely reef safe!
2. Ocellaris Clownfish
Everyone knows about the clownfish due to the movie Finding Nemo. Since the release of the movie, clownfish were ferociously taken out of the oceans because many parents wanted “Nemo” at home for their kids. Luckily, the reef-keeping community has successfully found ways to breed clownfish and they are tank-bred to help prevent plucking them out of the ocean.
Ocellaris clowns, like the Hector’s Goby, max out at around 3″ in length. Having a pair of clownfish is great! The female clownfish (dominant) will be a bit larger than the male. Ocellaris clownfish are perfect for nano reefs because they happily live in aquariums of 20 gallons or larger.
Besides the common orange clownfish, there are many different variations of ocellaris clownfish due to the extensive breeding that has exploded in the hobby. There are now black & white, snowflake, platnium, and many other clownfish that can be picked up from retailers and online breeders. Also, many captive bred clowns will not willingly host in anemones but can be trained to do so. Check out this guide for tips on how to get a clownfish in an anemone.
Like many marine fish, the clownfish is omnivorous and will happily take any food provided. A rounded diet of veggies and meaty foods is recommended. They will happily take pellet, flakes, and frozen meat foods. These are incredibly hardy fish and excellent for a new marine hobbyist.
3. Yellow Clown Goby
Yellow Clown Gobies are oddly shaped but very enjoyable fish. They always seem to perch themselves in weird positions on rocks, glass, and corals. They’re a very fun and unique fish but great for a nano reef tank. Although they are small, their yellow vibrant bodies makes them pop in any reef system.
These fish are small, and they stay small. They max out at about 1.5 inches and are content with calling an aquarium that is 10 gallons or larger home. Clown Gobies are reef safe with most polyp corals but be mindful with keeping them SPS corals because there is a possibility of them nipping at them. They should not bother any other fish except other clown gobies in small enclosures.
Yellow Clown Gobies are carnivorous fish. It is important to provide them with a variation of mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, and other meaty foods. Learn more about this fish by checking out the Yellow Clown Goby – Complete Care Guide.
4. Firefish
The Firefish is a fantastic fish to add to a reef aquarium. Their vibrant white, red, and purple coloration is gorgeous! They have an enlarged dorsal fin which looks like a sabre which adds to their awesomeness!
The Firefish will be around 3″ when they are fully grown. They are perfectly content with living in an aquarium that is 20 gallons or larger. They are completely reef-safe and will spend a good portion of the day hovering above the live rock waiting for food. It is recommended to provide them with a nice porous rock because they will dart into the holes when startled. They are known to be jumpers so a lid over the tank is also a good idea to have.
Firefish are carnivorous. So providing a mixture of different types of meaty food is recommended. They will love brine shrimp (live or frozen) and mysis shrimp. Providing frozen food is much easier for fish but feeding them live brine shrimp is always a fun activity.
5. Two Spot Goby
This isn’t a very common goby that is kept in a reef aquarium but I believe this is a great fish to own. Two Spot Gobies have a very unique coloration and body shape. They are primarily white with blotches of brown, black, and yellow to help camouflage into sand. They have an incredibly large jaw and do a fantastic job sifting through sand.
These fish get to be about 3″ in length when they are fully grown. They do well in aquariums 10 gallons or larger. It is very important to provide them with a nice deep sand bed because they will burrow into it. They also require lots of sand to sift through.
The Two Spot Goby is carnivorous so like many other fish on this list, it’s important to feed them meaty food. It is also a good idea to supplement your aquarium with live copepods to help give them more options if they are picky eaters. Take a look at the Two Spot Goby – Complete Care Guide for more information on this fish.
Final Thoughts
All of these are fantastic for a reef aquarium. Some are more common than others and there are plenty more that will do great that aren’t listed. Keep in mind that these fish should not all be crammed together into a nano aquarium. It is recommended to pick one or two depending on the appropriate aquarium size. Adding too many fish will cause water parameters to swing more often and aggression may be seen due to the lack of space. Hopefully, this guide has provided to insight into great nano fish for small reefs.
Reef aquariums are all very unique. The fish kept in these aquariums all have very interesting personalities and are a blast to observe. Their vibrant colors pop and are adored by many. Bicolor blennies are fantastic fish to keep in a reef aquarium. What they may lack in “vibrant” color they make up for in personality. These fish are common in the marine hobby and are sometimes overlooked as a new aquatic companion. Their very simple dark blue and orange coloring gives them an interesting appearance. One fantastic trait that they have is they will poke their heads out of rocks or perch on rocks just scoping out the surrounding area.
Bicolor Blenny Keeping Requirements
Luckily for us, these fish are not very hard to keep. I would not keep a bicolor blenny in an aquarium smaller than 30 gallons. Also, having a lot of live rock and crevices where this fish can hide and perch is a must! Their perching and environment scanning is a large portion of their personality! They max out at about 4″ in length so having holes and crevices of varying sizes is beneficial for them.
Bicolor blennies are primarily herbivorous so should be fed greens such as algae pellets, flakes, and algae sheets. They should also be given frozen fish food like mysis shrimp and/or brine shrimp from time to time. They are not picky eaters so they will easily accept a variety of foods. Although this is not very common, if underfed, these fish can sometimes pick on corals such as fleshy clams and stony corals. Be mindful of that when keeping this fish. They will help assist in controlling hair algae that may grow on live rock.
These fantastic fish are normally quite peaceful and keep to themselves. At the time of this writing, the one I have at home does not think my hand is friendly so will nip and attack from time to time, otherwise, it does not bother anything else. On occasion, they may go into battle with other blennies and gobies. If the aquarium is large enough each fish will find its territory and things should settle. I would not normally keep more than one type of blenny of similar size, shape, and color to help deter any aggression.
Final Thoughts
Bicolor blennies are excellent fish for any reef system. As long as they are fed well, they will do remarkably in your aquarium. They’re not the best algae eaters, for that look into getting a lawnmower blenny, but they will help cut down what’s in the fish tank already. They are hardy fish with great personalities!
There are many different types of angelfish in the saltwater & freshwater hobby. Most are at least labeled “with caution” when keeping with coral. In my opinion, some angelfish are more prone to nibbling on coral than others. Working in pet stores, I had the least amount of complaints from returning customers about coral beauty angelfish and their coral nipping habits over angels such as the Potter’s or Lemon peel. Take that information with a grain of salt especially if there are high-tier coral dwellings in your aquarium. At the end of the day, it’s a hit or miss with angelfish. I have a coral beauty angelfish that will nibble on fleshy open brain coral but will not bother anything else but who’s to say it won’t turn on my coral and eat away in the future?
Coral Beauty Requirements
The coral beauty will max out at a size of 4″ and is not recommended in aquariums that hold less than 75 gallons of water. They are very active fish and require plenty of space to graze on algae and sponges in the saltwater fish tank. Plenty of live rock and hiding spots should be given to this gorgeous fish.
These fish should typically be the only dwarf angelfish in the aquarium and they should be one of the last fish added into the system due to their aggression. They are highly territorial and can fight with other angels as well as other fish.
The coral beauty is an omnivore so providing marine algae, meaty food, as well as flake and pellet food will keep it happy and thriving! They are quite easy to care for and should happily eat any food provided to them.
As stated previously, most if not all angel fish are either not reef safe or with caution in a reef system. They have a history of nipping corals. They can graze on coral right from the beginning or acquire a taste if no food is provided for a few hours. I once had an Eibli Angel that would sit next to Frag plugs and watch me watch it. It would swim around very innocently and once my head was turned away it would get closer and closer and begin nipping on the coral, so please be mindful about adding an angelfish into you’re reef aquarium.
One final note about coral beauty and many other Dwarf Angelfish is that they can be shy, very very shy. The previously mentioned Eibli Angelfish took 6 months after introduction into the fish tank to finally come around and swim in open water. Otherwise, I was only able to see short glimpses of the fish. My coral beauty angel took about 3 weeks to get comfortable enough with me to swim in open water.
Final thoughts
Even With the coral nipping habits, these are incredible fish with wonderful and unique personalities. I can observe mine swimming and adventuring around my reef tank all day. The colors on this fish are remarkable, that gorgeous mixture of purple, blue, orange, and yellow just can’t be matched! Each one has a little bit of variation to it. If you’re jumping into a hobby and looking for an angelfish, consider a coral beauty!
The pearly jawfish sometimes known as a Yellowhead Jawfish is a very unique marine fish. The white coloring on the body, yellow head, and enormous black/blue eyes make this fish a wonder in a saltwater aquarium. It acts a little different from a goby but is quite a wonderful sand-sifting animal.
Jawfish Requirements
Like many burrowing fish, the pearly jawfish tends to miraculously jump out of the saltwater aquarium. Having a well-sealed aquarium is recommended for this fish due to its acrobatic skills.
When first introduced into the aquarium this fish is quite shy and may get out-competed for food. To guarantee it was eating, I used a long pipette to spot-feed the Yellowhead Jawfish in my home aquarium. At first was timid with the instrument but realized that food came out of it. A Jawfish that is eating is a good sign!
A minimum of 30 gallons is recommended for this fish as well as having a deep sand bed because they love to burrow deep into the sand. The sand should be very fine so they can put it into their mouth to move around. It is also very recommended to have your live rock touching the bottom glass/acrylic of your display tank. This is important because depending on how the jawfish burrows it can cause the rock to shift which can lead it to fall or crushing the jawfish underneath.
These fish are fairly hardy and should take to eating and will happily eat any food provided. A mixture of pellet food, flake food, and meaty food should be given. They will sometimes bolt out of their burrow, grab food, and swim back into their den. They have quite a unique personality.
It will grow to be about a max size of 4″ which is why they require to have a deep sand bed of no less than 4″. This jawfish is a very passive fish and will not bother any other fish. It may get bullied by other burrowing fish so be aware.
Pearly jawfish are perfectly reef safe and will not any coral. Be aware of any coral that may be in your sand bed because there is a chance this fish will completely cover it with sand. There have been many occasions where I had to dig out coral from a 1/2″ of sand because my jawfish decided sand belonged there.
Jawfish Hi-jinx
One funny thing this fish does is it will sometimes build a “fortress” around its burrow. It will collect small pebbles and snail shells and build a small wall. It will try to fight off hermit crabs and snails that may try to get into its home. It will take mouthfuls of sand, swim a few inches away from its burrow, and spit it all back out. They’re a very enjoyable fish to observe and a great addition to a reef aquarium.
Final Thoughts
This fish in my opinion is an incredible addition to anyone’s saltwater aquarium. They have a very unique appearance, they are pretty hardy, and they have incredible personalities. They will eat anything and do a pretty good job of keeping your sand clean because of their sand-tossing abilities. Besides keeping it from jumping and making sure it eats, you can’t go wrong with a pearly jawfish!
Yellow tangs are a fairly common fish in the saltwater hobby. They fall under the category of surgeonfish due to their very sharp scalpel-like appendage right before their tail. They use this to fight other tangs or in self-defense against predators. Their vibrant yellow coloring makes them pop in any home aquarium. They’re very intelligent fish with a large assortment of personalities.
As herbivorous fish, yellow tangs spend their day grazing algae and seaweed in the wild. In the aquarium, there is normally not enough algae growing to sustain their grazing diet. As owners, it is necessary to feed and give the tang enough grazing material (algae sheets) to help keep it full and happy. This fish will happily feed on meaty foods as well but the bulk of its diet should be herbivorous. They can grow up to roughly 8″ and are very active swimmers. It is not recommended to keep them in an aquarium smaller than 100 gallons, and it is preferred to keep only one in an aquarium unless they are introduced together. They do become territorial and will fight other tangs. Their aggression will not only be between themselves and other yellow tangs but other tangs too. They will fight other fish that are very similar in shape and color to themselves. It is especially not recommended to mix yellow tangs with purple tangs or sailfin tangs due to their similarities in shape.
These gorgeous fish should only be added to an aquarium once it is well established. They should not be one of the first fish introduced into the aquarium. They are very prone to getting diseases such as marine ich so having a stable and well-established aquarium will help prevent them from getting infections.
Yellow tangs are reef safe and they should not bother coral. If algae are present in the aquarium, they may graze on the algae growing around the coral. Unfortunately, they will be more than happy to mow down any macro algae put into the aquarium so keep that in mind.
Yellow tangs are very wonderful fish to have in a home aquarium. They’re vibrant and stand out very well from the background and are always the center of attention for visitors. They’re highly intelligent and a pleasure to observe. The one in my aquarium always acts tough but runs into the rocks once my hand is in the aquarium for coral spot feeding. Learn about more saltwater fish by checking out other articles and care guides by following this link.
The ocellaris clownfish is one of the first fish saltwater hobbyists add to their aquarium. They’re hardy, easy to care for, and popular beyond belief but sometimes go by another name (Nemo). They can become territorial so if a hand is in the aquarium, don’t be surprised to feel a pinching bite from a clown.
There is a pretty common fact that some may not know. Clownfish are born male and the dominant one in the pair becomes the female. Another interesting bit of info is that female clowns become larger than males. If a female passes away, the male will pair with another female or find another male and will fight for dominance to become a female. If/when a male turns into a female it cannot transform back into a male. Only one pair of clowns is recommended for a fish tank. Any more and there will most likely be quite a bit of fighting which stresses the fish out or can cause harm to them. If one of the fish passes away, it is best to replace it with one of a similar size. For example, try not to introduce a 4″ clown with a 1.5″ clown and hope they pair.
Many new hobbyists begin their saltwater journey with the common ocellaris clown. Once experience is gained and saltwater aquarium knowledge grows, people find interest in the rarer species of clownfish. Such as snowflake clowns or black ocellaris. There are many other variants of ocellaris clowns to choose from. This guide was made to provide a complete care guide to keeping clownfish.
Aquarium Requirements
Ocellaris Clownfish can grow to a size of roughly three inches. It’s not recommended to keep clowns in aquariums smaller than 20 gallons, due to their length at adulthood. Clownfish have very similar water parameters to most other saltwater fish which are:
Temperatures between 72 and 78 degrees Fahrenheit
dKH levels between 8 and 12
pH between 8.0 and 8.4
Salinity levels between 1.020 and 1.025 sg.
Providing these water parameters is key to keeping a clown happy but keeping them stable is also important for their long-term health.
It is beneficial to provide live rock in the aquarium so your fish has places to hide when stressed. An anemone is a fantastic addition but it is not mandatory to have for your clownfish.
Anemone Hosting
Be aware that many tank-raised clownfish will not automatically go into an anemone and host In it. Sometimes it is quite tricky to get them to do so. There are a few things to try to get them to host in an anemone.
First, if the fish is already in the aquarium, place a video or image of clownfish swimming in anemones against the glass. This may give them the urge to try and do the same. They may see other clowns safely swimming through anemones and instinctively be drawn to them.
Second, if the anemone is in an established aquarium, and new clownfish are being introduced, try to put the netted clownfish into a translucent tube. Make sure the tube is wide enough so the clowns can safely travel through it. Also, be sure the end of the tube is almost touching the anemone. When the fish make their way down, it will force them to come into contact with the anemone which may cause them to host in it.
Third, give it time. Sometimes clownfish will naturally make it’s way to an anemone and host it. I have had them a host in many other things such as frogspawns, torch coral, and green star polyps. Clowns are oddballs but they figure it out eventually.
Lastly, it’s ok if the clowns don’t host in an anemone. It is remarkable to see them spend all day rubbing against the anemone’s tentacles, feeding it, and just doing their thing but if they are being very stubborn and won’t host, it is not worth stressing them out more than necessary.
Clownfish Food & Diet
They should readily eat any type of food offered such as flakes, pellets, or frozen food. Providing different types of food will assist in giving your fish a well-rounded diet! If for some reason your clownfish does not want to eat, try mixing your food with garlic or garlic extract. You can read about feeding garlic to your fish here.
Tank Mates
Clownfish do well with most saltwater fish but do not keep them with fish that will try to eat them such as eels, groupers, lionfish, and most other predatory fish. Instead, try to keep clownfish with more peaceful fish such as:
Dwarf Angelfish
Tang
Gobies
Chromis
Wrasse
Most types of marine fish are compatible with clowns. Clownfish are also completely reef safe and will not bother coral or invertebrates! They may occasionally attempt to host euphyllia or other coral with tentacles.
Breeding Clownfish
If a bonded pair finds an aquarium suitable there is a chance of them laying eggs and producing offspring. Eggs are commonly eaten by other animals in the aquarium without human intervention. Clownfish will often breed in a display tank with no additional work required.
Building clownfish breeding tanks are pretty straightforward. Many breeders use a 10-gallon aquarium for a pair of clowns. Connect the breeding tank to a sump for filtration. The aquarium itself should be bare bottom with only a clay pot (3 – 5 inches) or pieces of clay tile. The sump should have a heater, protein skimmer, and live rock.
Keeping water parameters pristine is very important. Also, feed your clownfish a variety of foods at least twice a day to increase their body size to prepare them for breeding. Temperatures can sit around 78 to 80 degrees to motivate your clownfish to breed.
Egg Care
It will take roughly 6 to 8 days for your eggs to hatch! Before eggs hatch prepare live food to give them something to eat right after hatching. Feed live rotifers when eggs first hatch then baby brine shrimp after a few days of growth. Setting up a hatching tank will make it easier to care for your eggs and fry. Clownfish eggs will always hatch at night and require total darkness.
Set up your hatch tank with a heater, sponge filter, and air stone. Seed your sponge in the breeding tank a few weeks before putting it into the hatching tank. Also, be certain that the aquarium, heater, and air stone are cleaned well with hot water before setting up.
Place the aquarium in a dark location and completely cover all sides with black construction paper or anything that will block out the light. Cover the light that’s on the heater with black electrical tape. Provide a light but be sure to have it incredibly dim because too bright light can kill newly hatched fry.
Hatch Day
On hatch day, remove the eggs from the breeding tank and place them into the hatching tank. Before that, make sure the heater’s temperature is the same as the breeding tank. Keep your hatch tank light schedule the same as the breeding tank schedule.
Place the eggs into the breeding tank and adjust the air stone so that air is flowing over the eggs. This is crucial because eggs need movement to stay alive. A few hours after the lights go out, the eggs should hatch. A very dim flashlight can be used to check.
Begin feeding live rotifers many times a day and check the water parameters to make sure that ammonia, nitrates, and phosphates do not spike. Fry are very sensitive to water parameter changes so keeping things low and stable is important!
Final Notes
Clowns are very fun fish with unique personalities. They’re great as introductory fish into saltwater aquariums but also amazing animal companions in the long term. They can get territorial but the little nibbles are worth dealing with. If you’re looking to learn about other saltwater fish, check out the growing list of care guides for saltwater fish.
Manage Consent
To provide the best experiences, we use technologies like cookies to store and/or access device information. Consenting to these technologies will allow us to process data such as browsing behavior or unique IDs on this site. Not consenting or withdrawing consent, may adversely affect certain features and functions.
Functional Always active
The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network.
Preferences
The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user.
Statistics
The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for statistical purposes.The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for anonymous statistical purposes. Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you.
Marketing
The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes.
