The Purple Dottyback (Pseudochromis porphyreus) often called the Magenta Dottyback, or Purple Pseudochromis is a beautiful purple/magenta fish that can be kept in a saltwater aquarium. This vibrant fish will often be seen floating very close to its home. It will spend a lot of time making sure its territory is secure. Although it stays relatively small, the Purple Pseudochromis will fight tooth and nail for its territory. This article will discuss aggression levels, aquarium requirements, diet, and tank mates of the Purple Dottyback.
Is the Purple Dottyback aggressive?
Purple Dottybacks are considered semi-aggressive. They usually keep to themselves until they have to protect their territory. I would consider introducing this fish species a little later so your more peaceful fish can establish their territories first. Although it’s not guaranteed, doing this should help alleviate some aggression.
Aquarium Requirements
The Purple Dottyback will grow to be about 3 inches in length. They will do best in saltwater fish tanks that are 30 gallons or larger. The aquarium should also be full of live rock with different-sized caves and crevices to provide cover for this fish.
Like many saltwater fish, the Magenta Dottyback could jump out of the fish tank. It is important to provide a well-fitted lid to help alleviate the potential of your fish jumping out.
Water Parameters
Keeping water parameters in check is important for fish, crustaceans, coral, etc. The following are the water parameters needed to keep your Purple Dottyback comfortable in the aquarium.
Water Temperature: 72°-78° F
dKH: 8 – 12
pH: 8.1 – 8.4
Salinity: 1.020 – 1.025 sg
One of the easiest ways to achieve proper dKH and pH levels is through water changes. Conducting water changes with a good salt mix will help provide proper and stable water parameters for your aquarium’s inhabitants.
The salt mix that works best for you will depend on what you keep in your aquarium. I usually use the Red Sea Coral Pro Salt. You can follow the link to pick it up from Amazon but it’s usually cheaper at Bulk Reef Supply.
Is The Purple Dottyback Reef Safe?
The Purple Dottyback is reef safe. It is not a danger to any coral. However, small shrimp such as Sexy Shrimp may be not safe with this fish. Other small shrimp may become a snack for the Purple Dottyback.
Food & Diet
This species of fish require a very meaty diet because they are carnivorous. You should provide them with a protein-heavy diet of Mysis Shrimp, Brine Shrimp, and krill when they are fully grown. The Purple Dottyback will also benefit from given protein-rich pellet food, and flake food. You may also see this fish consume copepods that live in and around live rock.
Tank Mates
The Purple Pseudochromis should do well with most other fish that won’t readily try to eat it. This species of fish should do well with Clownfish, Damsels, Wrasses, Dwarf Angels, Chromis, and even larger fish such as tangs, foxfaces, and rabbitfish.
If possible I would avoid keeping them with large and predatory fish such as Groupers, Lionfish, Eels, and pretty much anything that may mistake the Purple Dottyback for food. Lastly, aggression levels will likely increase if more than one dottyback is kept in a fish tank. I would avoid keeping this fish with other dottybacks such as the Purple Striped Dottyback, Splendid Dottyback, and many others.
Breeding
Because of their territorial and semi-aggressive temperament, breeding Purple Dottybacks in an aquarium setting will be impossible.
Final Notes
The Purple Dottyback is a great fish to keep in a saltwater fish tank or reef tank. As stated above, they are perfectly safe with coral, and many fish will understand to avoid their territory once they are settled in. In an appropriately sized aquarium with plenty of hiding spots and rockwork, the Purple Pseudochromis should thrive! If you’re curious about other dottyback species, check out the Dottyback information page by following the link.
The Purple Striped Dottyback (Pseudochromis diadema), also known as the Diadem Pseudochromis, or Diadem Dottyback, is a beautiful saltwater fish primarily yellow in color with a horizontal purple stripe running across its body. It is a fairly hardy fish that is quite easy to care for. Beware because the Purple Striped Dottyback can be a territorial fish and can be aggressive toward other tank mates. It is a gorgeous and vibrant fish that would be a good addition to many saltwater aquariums.
You can find the Purple Striped Dottyback for sale at many brick-and-mortar stores and online on Liveaquaria. This guide will cover aquarium requirements, food & diet, tank mates, and breeding habits of the Purple Striped Dottyback.
Aquarium Requirements
Purple Striped Dottybacks will grow to a max size of about 3″. Due to their adult size, I would recommend keeping them in fish tanks that are 30 gallons or larger. Keep in mind that they can dominate smaller fish tanks because of their temperament. Your fish tank should be decorated with live rock with varying-sized caves for your dottyback to explore and create its territory. If you cannot find live rock at your local fish store, consider picking some up from Amazon.
I would also consider adding a well-fitted lid to your aquarium because dottybacks and other fish may decide to jump out.
Water Temperature: 72°-78° F
dKH: 8 – 12
pH: 8.1 – 8.4
Salinity: 1.020 – 1.025 sg
Consider getting a High Range pH and KH test kit to test for pH & dKH. Keeping your temperature between 72° and 78° can be accomplished with a heater. Take a look at my guide which showcases some great aquarium heaters. Lastly, I would pick up a Refractometer from Amazon to keep an eye on your salinity levels. If calibrated correctly, refractometers are much more accurate compared to a hydrometer which loses accuracy due to salt buildup on the dial. Check out Different Salinity Reading Tools For Saltwater Fish Tanks to get an idea of other salinity testing devices available.
Is The Purple Striped Dottyback Reef Safe?
The Purple Striped is reef safe and can be kept with coral and invertebrates. The only invertebrates that will be in danger are copepods and small ornamental shrimp (sexy shrimp), and other very small crustaceans. They may live amongst coral but they should not eat any.
Food & Diet
This species of fish is carnivorous. They should not be picky eaters and will consume Pellets, Flakes, Mysis Shrimp, Brine Shrimp, and other meaty foods. They may be given Krill as well once they are fully grown.
Tank Mates
Because of their potentially aggressive nature, I would recommend adding Purple Striped Dottybacks later. It is good to allow other fish to establish a territory before adding this fish. They should do well with fish such as Clownfish, Dwarf Angelfish, Wrasses, Damsels, Hawkfish, Gobies, and other fish that get a little larger than the Purple Striped Dottyback. I do not recommend adding other Pseudochromis with this fish because you will likely see constant fighting between the two.
Breeding
Because of their aggressive and territorial nature, breeding this fish species is practically impossible.
Final Notes
The Purple Striped Dottyback is a vibrant fish. Although it doesn’t have the best personality, it is a great starter fish and provides unique behavior for hours of enjoyment. Overall, they are great fish, especially if you understand their temperament. If you have any comments or information on this fish, please let me know! Also, if you’re interested in other dottyback species, check out the dottyback information page by following the link.
Dogface Puffers also known as the Blackspotted Puffer get their name from having a physical resemblance to canines. Dogface Puffer fish also have gray, brown, and yellow colorations as well as black spots on their bodies. These semi-aggressive fish have a great personality and are a thrill to keep in a large saltwater fish tank. This guide will cover Dogface Puffer fish aquarium requirements, feeding habits, compatible tank mates, and more. Check out the Saltwater Pufferfish page for more information on different species of puffer.
Aquarium Requirements
Dogface Puffers get large. They will grow to be over a foot in length. It will be important to provide them with an aquarium that is 150 gallons or larger to keep them happy. Because of their size and their carnivorous diet, they will also create a lot of poop, which will lead to increased levels of nitrates and phosphates. A very good filtration system and water changing schedule will be crucial in keeping your water parameters in check. A sump system with a great protein skimmer such as the Reef Octopus 150INT Protein Skimmer will help keep your aquarium water parameters in check.
I would also recommend providing your Dogface Puffer with plenty of live rock with different sized caves to give it cover. If you can’t find live rock at your local fish store, check out the Carib Sea South Sea Base Rock on Amazon.
Water Parameters
The water parameters needed to keep a Dogface Puffer are similar to what most saltwater fish require which are:
Water Temperature: 72°-78° F
dKH: 8 – 12
pH: 8.1 – 8.4
Salinity: 1.020 – 1.025 sg
Regular water changes with a high-quality salt mix with help keep your pH, dKH, and salinity in check. You will need a properly calibrated refractometer to verify proper salinity levels. Refractometers can be purchased on Amazon by following this link. Also, you will need an aquarium water heater to keep your water temperature at the proper level. Take a look at the 6 Best Water Heaters For Fresh & Saltwater Fish Tanks to get an idea of the different water heaters available for purchase.
Are Dogface Puffers Reef Safe?
Dogface Puffer fish are not reef safe. In the wild, their primary food source is invertebrates. This includes snails, shrimp, crabs, hermit crabs, and more. Although they do not readily eat coral, they may nip and break off pieces of coral trying to grind down their ever-growing beak. I would not risk keeping this species of fish in a reef tank. They do best in Fish-Only with live rock (FOWLR) aquariums.
Food & Diet
Dogface Puffers are carnivores. As stated earlier, they eat shrimp, snails, crabs, and more meaty food in the wild. They will likely need to consume frozen food such as krill, clams, and hard-shelled shrimp in a fish tank. These foods will help them grind their beak down to size. Also, if you have any live shrimp, snails, crabs, or other invertebrate, they will likely become a meal for your Puffer.
Tank Mates
There are a lot of different species of fish that can be kept with a Dogface Puffer. They will do well with fish such as Triggers, Large Angelfish, Eels, Large Wrasses, and other large carnivorous fish. It will do best with fish that grow larger but that is not very aggressive. Dogface Pufferfish may also nip on the fins of fish.
They are known to get picked on by other Pufferfish species such as the Porcupine Puffer. I would be weary of keeping the Dogface Puffer with other Pufferfish. Sometimes they successfully inhabit a fish tank together. It all depends on the temperament of the individual fish.
Are Dogface Puffer Fish Aggressive?
As stated earlier, the Dogface Puffer can potentially nip on the fins of other fish. They are labeled as semi-aggressive but they are usually more docile compared to other large Puffer Fish species.
Breeding
I would not recommend keeping more than one Dogface Puffer in a fish tank. This makes breeding this fish impossible.
Final Notes
Dogface Puffers are unique-looking fish that make a great addition to many large FOWLR aquariums. If you’re looking for a fish that will sort of act like an aquatic puppy, consider picking up a Dogface. Maintaining balanced water parameters may become a challenge but it is well worth it for this fish!
The Blue Spotted Puffer sometimes called the Blue Dot Puffer, or Blue Dot Toby is a species of pufferfish that is often kept in saltwater aquariums. It has gorgeous brown, tan, and yellow colorations as well as blue spots speckled across its body. Like other puffers, the Blue Dot Toby has a beaklike structure that is used to break through tough invertebrate exoskeletons.
Blue Spotted Pufferfish have fantastic personalities which may make them the centerpiece of any aquarium they are in. You can often find Blue Spotted Puffers for sale at LiveAquaria, Saltwaterfish.com, or check out your local fish stores! This guide will cover the aquarium requirements, food and diet, tank mates, and breeding of the Blue Spotted Puffer.
Aquarium Requirements
The Blue Spot Puffer will grow between 4 and 5 inches. An aquarium that is 55 gallons or larger will suit this fish incredibly well. It is beneficial to provide live rock with varying-sized caves and nooks for the fish to hide in. Monitoring the water for elevated levels of nitrates and phosphates because puffers can sometimes be sensitive to unbalanced waters. They will also require the following water parameters:
Water Temperature: 72°-78° F
dKH: 8 – 12
pH: 8.1 – 8.4
Salinity: 1.020 – 1.025 sg
Providing the following water parameters will help keep your fish healthy! A simple thermometer such as the Penn Plax floating thermometer can be used to check your water temperature. DKH levels can be tested using an API KH test kit or you can get fancy with a Hanna Instrument Alkalinity Check (HI772). pH levels can be tested using an API High-Range pH test kit. Lastly, I recommend checking your salinity using a refractometer over a hydrometer. Over time, hydrometers become less accurate because salt particles build up on the tool.
Is the Blue Spotted Puffer Reef Safe?
Like many other saltwater puffers, I would not consider the Blue Spot Puffer reef safe. They consume invertebrates and can potentially eat your coral. After doing some research, some reef keepers have claimed that their Blue Spot Puffers are model citizens around coral but others didn’t have such luck. Being safe with coral is likely dependent on the individual fish but I would not risk it.
Food & Diet
Blue Spotted Puffer fish eat primarily meaty foods. You will want to feed them an assortment of foods to help wear down their teeth. Great frozen foods for Blue Dot Tobys are krill, clams, squid, hard-shelled shrimp, and Mysis shrimp. I would feed your puffer a mix of these foods to provide them with a variety to help grind down their beak. I would also recommend occasionally feeding your puffer live hermit crabs or snails.
Tank Mates
Blue Spot Puffers are fairly peaceful. They can become territorial and may nip on other fish’s fins, but overall they keep to themselves. They should do well with clownfish, damsels, chromis, dwarf angels, wrasses, and other friendly and small saltwater fish. They should also do well with larger fish such as tangs, foxfaces, rabbitfish, and other peaceful large fish.
Breeding
I would not recommend keeping more than one Blue Spot Puffer in a fish tank. Because of this, breeding is impossible.
Final Notes
Blue Spot Tobys are beautiful and vibrant fish that can be kept in a saltwater fish tank. They are a great centerpiece for aquariums that are 55 gallons or larger. If you’re looking for something unique to keep in your saltwater fish tank, consider picking up a Blue Spot Puffer fish. Check out the Saltwater Pufferfish page for information are different puffer species.
The Valentini Puffer sometimes called the Saddle Valentini, or Blacksaddled Toby is a small species of pufferfish often kept in saltwater aquariums. It has beautiful black, white, and yellow colorations on its body. They also have spots running horizontally throughout their body. Valentini Puffers are known to have great personalities and become a highlight in a fish tank. They normally keep to themselves but are known to nip on fins from time to time.
Valentini Puffer fish puff up when they are threatened or in danger. It is important to avoid having them puff because it is stressful on their body. Also, part of the Saddle Valentini holds a toxin. It should generally not be dangerous to humans unless you decide to consume the puffer. This guide will cover Saddle Valentini aquarium requirements, food & diet, tank mates, breeding, and more!
Aquarium Requirements
The Blacksaddled Toby should be introduced into well-established saltwater fish tanks. It is recommended to add them into an aquarium using a container instead of a net if possible. They become more stressed when netted and will be more prone to puffing up.
The Black Saddle Puffer’s max length is about 4 inches. It will do well in an aquarium that is 30 gallons or larger. I would personally recommend keeping them in 40-gallon fish tanks or larger due to their diet and sensitivity to fluctuations in water parameters. More water volume will help prevent large swings in water parameters. Also, I recommend adding a lot of live rock with different sized caves to provide refuge for your pufferfish during times of stress.
Water Parameters
Water parameters for saltwater fish is generally the same. However, there are some outliers that have unique parameter requirements. Luckily the Valentini Pufferfish has fairly standard water parameter needs.
Water Temperature: 72°-78° F
dKH: 8 – 12
pH: 8.1 – 8.4
Salinity: 1.020 – 1.025 sg
Is The Valentini Puffer Reef Safe?
Valentini Pufferfish do best in fish-only with live rock (FOWLR) aquariums. They may seek out invertebrates in your fish tank and make them a quick meal. I have heard mixed opinions about keeping Blacksaddled Tobys with coral. Some reef keepers claim theirs are model citizens while others observed Valentini Pufferfish nipping their coral. The personality of the individual fish will determine whether they are safe with coral or not. I would personally only keep this species in fish-only aquariums, to avoid losing coral and invertebrates to a hungry Black Saddle Puffer.
Food & Diet
Valentini Pufferfish have a beak that grows throughout their lifespan. They require foods that are hard-shelled to help grind down their beak. They will happily munch on live snails, hermit crabs, and shrimp. Providing them with live saltwater invertebrates can become incredibly expensive over time. Luckily, some foods are good replacements for live inverts. Frozen foods such as clams, krill, and squid are great to help grind down this puffer’s beak. Although they may not help grind their beak down, I would also recommend feeding Valentini Puffers Mysis Shrimp and Brine Shrimp.
Tank Mates
Black saddled Puffers are fairly peaceful in fish tanks. If plenty of live rock and hiding spaces are provided, they should keep to themselves. They will do best with similarly sized fish such as Clownfish, Damsels, Wrasses, and Dwarf Angels. In appropriately sized fish tanks, they will likely get along with a few larger fish like Tangs and Foxfaces. There are many other fish Valentini Puffers can get along with, but I just wanted to give you a general idea.
I would not recommend keeping this puffer fish with another Valentini Puffer because they will likely become territorial and aggressive toward one another. To play it safe, I would not recommend mixing Valentini Pufferfish with other puffer species.
Breeding
Due to their potentially territorial nature, I would not keep more than one Valentini Pufferfish in an aquarium. This makes breeding impossible.
Final Notes
Valentini Pufferfish are gorgeous fish with incredible personalities. If you decide to pick one up, it’ll likely become the centerpiece of your fish tank. It is important to keep up with this fish’s need to grind its beak down, but that will come naturally with the provided food. Check out the Saltwater Pufferfish page for information on different species of puffer!
The Porcupine Puffer also known as the Porcupinefish is a very smart and interactive fish that can be kept in a saltwater fish tank. They have beautiful brown and black patterns all over their body and gorgeous deep blue eyes. Porcupine Pufferfish have a beak-like structure that resembles teeth that continuously grow. They can also puff up to about twice their body size when they are stressed. The act of puffing up is a defense mechanism so the less it puffs up, the better for the fish’s health. This article will cover the Porcupine Puffer’s aquarium requirements, food and diet needs, tank mates, and more.
Aquarium Requirements
Porcupine Puffers get incredibly large, they can be about a foot long at their max size. A full grown Porcupine Puffer should not be kept in an aquarium smaller than 180 gallons with plenty of space to swim. Because of their diets and messy habits, saltwater puffer fish should have a very good protein skimmer running to help remove waste. I have had great luck with the Reef Octopus brand, the Reef Octopus Classic 150SSS Protein Skimmer will do great on a large saltwater fish tank.
Porcupinefish Water Parameters
Porcupine Puffers have very similar water parameter requirements to other saltwater fish. The following are water parameters required to keep the Porcupinefish happy.
Temperature: 72-78° F
pH: 8.1-8.4
Salinity: 1.020-1.025
dKH 8-12
Food & Diet
The Porcupine Pufferfish’s diet consists mostly of snails, crabs, clams, and many other invertebrates. The hard skeletons and shells of these animals help the Pufferfish to grind down their teeth that continuously grow. In an aquarium, their diet should consist of a variety of meaty food such as clams, krill, squid, and hard-shelled shrimp. I would also include lives snails and hermit crabs in their diet as well.
Are Porcupine Puffers Reef Safe?
Part of being reef safe means being safe with invertebrates such as snails, crabs, and clams. Technically, the Porcupine Puffer is not reef safe. Also, I have read mixed thoughts on keeping them with corals. There is a possibility that these puffers will nip on live rock to file down their teeth. This means they can accidentally bite SPS coral. I have also read that Porcupine Pufferfish have been seen biting other coral species such as zoanthids. Heavy feeding may help deter your Pufferfish from eating coral, but that seems to completely depend on the individual fish. I’d be too paranoid about keeping a Porcupinefish in a reef tank.
Porcupine Puffer Tank Mates
This species of fish is known to be fairly aggressive that sometimes nips on other fish. They will do best in an aquarium that has other semi-aggressive fish. Check out 5 Unique Predatory Fish for Saltwater Aquariums to get an idea of other fish that can be kept with Porcupine Puffers. There are more large saltwater fish that will do fine with this puffer species such as tangs, foxfaces, groupers, angels, eels, and more. Be mindful that the puffer fish may try to eat smaller fish that fit into its mouth.
As stated above, Porcupine Pufferfish are not reef safe and should not be kept with any shrimp, snails, crab, and clam. They may be fine for a little while, but eventually the puffer will find these invertebrates and make them lunch.
Breeding
This species of puffer is incredibly territorial and two of the same species should not be kept together in a fish tank. This makes breeding pretty much impossible.
Final Notes
Porcupine Puffers are incredibly fun to keep, but it’s important to keep them in an enclosure that is compatible for them. Keep in mind they can become nippy, are not reef safe, but are very personable and exciting to observe. If you are setting up a Fish Only With Live Rock (FOWLR) consider adding this species of fish into the aquarium.
The Sixline Wrasse sometimes spelled Six Line Wrasse, or 6 Line Wrasse, is a species of fish commonly found in the aquarium keeping hobby. This species has six distinct horizontal lines running across its body. It has striking purple, pink, and green colorations on its body. It is an iconic species in fish-only aquariums or reef tanks. There is a general misconception about this fish. Some people ask, “Are Sixline Wrasse evil?” The answer is no, they’re not evil but they can become territorial so it’s common to introduce this wrasse later into your aquarium. This allows other fish to establish their territories. This article will discuss Six Line Wrasse Aquarium Requirements, Food & Diet, Common Tank Mates, and more.
Aquarium Requirements
The Sixline Wrasse grows to a max size of about 3 inches. It will do well in both fish-only and reef tanks that are 30 gallons or larger. They do best in a fish tank filled with live rock with holes of varying sizes. This will allow them to be active and explore, while also providing them with cover when stressed. Like many other wrasse species, the Six Line Wrasse can jump out of the fish tank. Consider providing a well-fitted cover to prevent jumping.
Food & Diet
The Six Line Wrasse is a carnivore. It will likely feed on flatworms, copepods, and bristleworms in the aquarium, but they should be provided with additional food such as Mysis Shrimp and Brine Shrimp. They will readily take pellet food and flake food. They are not picky eaters, but if you have one that isn’t eating, consider soaking its food in Selcon or Garlic. Check out this article that talks about some of the benefits of feeding garlic to fish.
Tank Mates
Overall, the Sixline should do perfectly fine with most peaceful fish in an aquarium. This includes Clownfish, Firefish, Dwarf Angelfish, Anthias, Blennies, and much more. They should do well with larger fish such as Foxface, Butterflyfish, and Tangs. I would avoid keeping them with fish that may make a snack out of your Sixline Wrasse such as Groupers and Pufferfish. Other Wrasses may be attacked by the Sixline Wrasse as well.
The Six Line Wrasse is reef safe. It will do well with snails, shrimp, hermit crabs, and coral. Keeping Cleaner Shrimp with Sixline Wrasse should be perfectly fine. If you see them picking on coral, they’re likely just picking out the flatworms, or bristleworms within.
Breeding
Because of their territorial nature, I would not keep more than one Sixline Wrasse in an aquarium. This makes breeding almost impossible.
Final Notes
The Sixline Wrasse is a great addition to any reef tank. As long as you are cautious about their territorial habits, you should have great success with this easy-to-care-for fish. They’re usually great about eating pests such as bristleworms and flatworms. They also provide plenty of activity in a fish tank. If your fish tank allows, really consider getting yourself a Six Line Wrasse!
The Yellow Banded Possum Wrasse also known as the Pygmy Possum Wrasse is a species of carnivorous saltwater fish found in this hobby. It is a peaceful fish with beautiful red, orange, and yellow coloration on its body. The Banded Possum Wrasse stays relatively small and is an excellent fish for fish-only and reef tanks. Pygmy Possum Wrasses are known to come with internal parasites. It is recommended to quarantine your fish and medicate them before adding them into the aquarium. This article will go into detail on the Possum Wrasse’s aquarium needs, food & diet, and compatible tank mates.
Aquarium Requirements
Because the Yellow Banded Possum Wrasse’s max size is 3″, it will do well in aquariums that are 10 gallons or larger. It is important to provide plenty of hiding spaces in the aquarium. Most hobbyists use live rock to provide a natural aquascape for their saltwater fish tanks.
A tightly fitted lid is also recommended for the aquarium because the Pygmy Possum Wrasse is known to jump out of the aquarium.
Food & Diet
The Possum Wrasse is a carnivorous animal, it is very important to provide it with high-quality foods such as Mysis Shrimp, Spirulina Brine Shrimp, and Pellet/Flake Food. They are not known to be finicky eaters and usually readily take food when introduced into a fish tank. If they are stubborn and avoid eating food, consider mixing the food with Selcon or soaking the food in garlic before feeding. Check out this article about the benefits of dipping your fish food in garlic.
Tank Mates
In appropriately sized aquariums, Yellow Banded Possum Wrasses should do well with other peaceful saltwater fish. It should be fine with clownfish, dwarf angelfish, firefish, tangs, foxfaces, and much more. I would avoid keeping them with fish that can fit the Possum Wrasse in its mouth. I would also avoid mixing wrasses because many do not get along.
In a large enough aquarium, 1 male can be housed with multiple females. The males are often more vibrantly colored compared to the females of the species. If possible, I would introduce them all at the same time, or introduce the females first and bring in the male after the females are established.
This wrasse species is reef safe. It should not bother any of your coral or invertebrates. The Yellow Banded Possum Wrasse may eat flatworms and bristleworms but if you have an outbreak of bristle/flatworms, I have more confidence in different wrasse species such as the Sixline Wrasse, Yellow Wrasse, or Melanurus Wrasse.
Breeding
I do not have any information regarding breeding. Many saltwater fish are incredibly hard or impossible to breed in an aquarium.
Final Notes
Possum Wrasses are interesting fish that can be kept in a reef tank or fish-only aquarium. Their unique body and coloration make them a fantastic addition to your aquarium. They’re also great because they can be added to nano saltwater tanks. If you have more information on Possum Wrasses please share!
The Pearly Jawfish (Opistognathus aurifrons), sometimes called the Yellowhead Jawfish, is a gorgeous fish kept in the fishkeeping hobby. This fish has a white/blue body and a yellow head. These colors are not commonly seen on fish. It is a burrowing species of fish that can be very timid, especially when first introduced. However, they are very peaceful fish and spend most of their time in and around their burrow.
Opistognathus aurifrons grow to be about 4 inches when they are fully grown. Although they do not require an incredibly large fish tank, they still require a deep substrate which we will cover later. The Pearly Jawfish is reef safe, but may “spit” sandy substrate onto coral that are around its burrow. This article will go further into detail and also discuss Pearly Jawfish care, aquarium requirements, diets and more. If you’re curious about jawfish, check out the Blue Spot Jawfish Care Guide as well!
Aquarium Requirements
If you are looking to keep a single Pearly Jawfish, it does best in aquariums that are 30 gallons or larger. Be mindful because there may be aggression between Jawfish and gobies for real estate in your fish tank. Yellowhead Jawfish also do best with sand beds that are at least 4 inches deep but more is always better! CaribSea Fiji Pink Sand is a great Pearly Jawfish substrate. I would also recommend providing rock rubble around the fish tank because I have seen Pearly Jawfish use small pieces of rock to help stabilize their burrow.
To my knowledge, all Jawfish are known to be excellent jumpers. A tight-fitting lid is incredibly important if you are trying to prevent your fish from jumping to its demise.
Food and Diet
Pearly Jawfish are primarily carnivorous animals. Regardless, I have seen them happily eat pellet food as well. It is good to provide an assortment of food for your Jawfish. I would feed mine Mysis Shrimp, Brine Shrimp, Krill, and New Life Spectrum Marine Formula. When I first introduced a Pearly Jawfish into my aquarium, I would use a long turkey baster, like this one, to feed it. I sucked up the food into the syringe and tried to get as close to its burrow. I would then release the food. I did this because at first my Jawfish was incredibly skittish and would disappear into its burrow during feeding time.
Tank Mates
I would recommend keeping your Pearly Jawfish in a fairly peaceful aquarium. It does great with fish such as Clownfish, Tangs, Dwarf Angelfish, Chromis, Firefish, Hawkfish, and many other community fish. There may be some territorial disputes with gobies, but in a large enough aquarium each should find their spot. I would avoid keeping your Jawfish with larger fish like Lionfish, Pufferfish, Groupers, and other fish that may consider a Pearly Jawfish food.
In a large enough aquarium, you may be able to keep multiple Pearly Jawfish together. I would personally start considering keeping multiple in 75 gallon aquariums. Be sure you provide deep sand beds for your Jawfish.
Pearly Jawfish and Pistol Shrimp
Unfortunately, the two fish will not share a hole. The good news is, that they should be able to co-exist in a fish tank. Check out Watchman Gobies if you are looking for a fish that is compatible with a Pistol Shrimp.
Breeding
It is possible to successfully breed Pearly Jawfish. You can’t tell the difference between males and females of this species by appearance. If breeding is successful, males will hold the eggs in their mouths. I have not ever attempted to breed this fish species, but I can imagine it being incredibly difficult to separate the eggs from its parents. If you have had any luck, let me know!
Final Notes
Pearly Jawfish are beautiful saltwater fish with very interesting personalities. If you have the proper setup, I would highly recommend giving them a try! They’re very fun to observe, especially around feeding time when they dart out of their burrow to grab some food.
Harlequin Tusk fish (Choerodon fasciatus) is a species of saltwater wrasse that can be found in the Indian Ocean and Australia. They are very similar in appearance in both regions however, the Australian Harlequin Tusk has more pronounced blue streaks running vertically throughout its body. This fish species always gets heads turning because of its eye-catching coloration. On top of the beautiful colors on this fish, it also sports blue pointy teeth that will make you think twice before putting your hand in the fish tank.
Choerodon fasciatus will be 10 inches when it is fully grown. You should also be very cautious if you plan on keeping this fish in a reef tank. This guide will discuss why and also how to care for Harlequin Tusks. If you know all about the Harlequin Tusks, consider checking out 5 Unique Predatory Fish for Saltwater Aquariums!
Aquarium Requirements
Because of how large Choerodon fasciatus becomes, it is recommended for fish tanks that are 125 gallons or larger. The aquarium itself should have plenty of rockwork that creates different sized caves for the Harlequin Tusk. Juveniles of this species are often very timid so it is great to provide hiding spaces.
Most saltwater fish have similar water parameter requirements. That is not any different with Harlequins. This fish does best under the following water parameters:
Temperature: 72°-78° F
DKH: 8-12
pH: 8.1-8.4
Salinity: 1.020-1.025 sg
From my experiences and research, it does not seem like Harlequin Tusks are known to be jumpers. However, a well-fitted lid is always recommended because you never know with fish.
Is the Harlequin Tusk Reef Safe?
These fish are cautiously kept in reef tanks, primarily because although they will not eat your coral, they will devour most invertebrates that are in the aquarium. However, they are often kept in Fish Only With Live Rock (FOWLR) aquariums.
Food and Diet
The Harlequin Tusk fish is strictly a carnivorous fish. They hunt and prey on small invertebrates such as snails, crabs, shrimp, and more in the wild. Their diet should replicate something similar to what they would eat in the wild. When they are small, they can be fed an assortment of Mysis Shrimp, Brine Shrimp, and Krill. Once they are older, Mysis Shrimp and Brine Shrimp may not sustain a hungry Harlequin Tusk. I would recommend feeding it larger meaty foods such as Krill, Clam on a Half shell, and squid. They may also eat large pellets and flake food. Most invertebrates are not safe with this fish in the aquarium. Harlequin Tusks and Cleaner Shrimp are not even a safe combination.
Do Harlequin Tusk Eat Aptasia
There is very little information on whether Harlequin Tusks eat aptasia. I can safely assume that they will not eat aptasia because they will not mess with coral or anemones in a reef tank. If anyone has any concrete information on this, please share! If you need to remove aptasia, consider purchasing peppermint shrimp but beware because they may destroy other coral.
Do Harlequin Tusk Eat Bristleworms?
Being invertebrates and Harlequin Tusks being wrasses, I can assume that this fish species will eat bristleworms. Perhaps not as well as a Sixline Wrasse or Arrow Crab, but Harlequin Tusks should eat some bristleworms when the opportunity arises. However, I do not have concrete evidence to prove this.
Do Harlequin Tusk Eat Clams?
Most of the searching I have done assumes that Harlequin Tusks do not eat clams. Being the rowdy carnivores that they are, I would still be a little cautious owning clams and Harlequins.
Tank Mates
The Harlequin Tusk has a reputation for starting life as a small timid fish, but it becomes more aggressive once it settles into a fish tank and grows. Choerodon fasciatus should be kept with fish that grow larger and can hold their own. I would recommend fish such as Triggerfish, Surgeonfish/tangs, Lionfish, large Angelfish, and Groupers. Smaller fish such as Chromis, Clownfish, Firefish, and many others are commonly eaten by Harlequin Tusks. Also, there may be increased aggression and fighting towards other wrasses.
Can you Keep More Than One Harlequin Tusk?
The simple answer is no. Harlequin Tusks become incredibly territorial and aggressive when they are grown and will fight others of their species. They wreak havoc on other fish and wrasses of different species, so it’s a bad idea to consider adding two Choerodon fasciatus together. Our aquariums are not large enough to comfortably keep more than one in a system.
Breeding
Breeding is not really possible with this species in an aquarium setting. They are incredibly territorial and will fight their own species. Also, it’s incredibly hard and/or impossible to determine whether saltwater fish are males or females.
Final Notes
Harlequin Tusks are probably one of the most beautiful saltwater fish available. If you can look passed their temperament (and their cost) I would highly recommend them if you have the correct setup. If you’re not ready to pick up a Harlequin Tusk, check out some other fish that are great for 30 Gallon Aquariums.
African Cichlids are beautiful fish that range in size, beauty, and temperament. They compare very closely to saltwater fish in regards to color. These fish come in vibrant yellows, blues, reds, and much more! Keeping African Cichlids is a lot of fun and worthwhile If you can look passed their temperaments. This article will cover some of my favorite African Cichlids. This list is in no particular order and I understand that not everyone will agree with it. Hopefully, it interests you to potentially keep this wonderful fish.
1. Yellow Lab Cichlid
Yellow Lab Cichlids, sometimes called the Electric Yellow Cichlid is a vibrant and striking fish from Lake Malawi in Africa. This fish is part of a larger cichlid group called mbuna. Mbuna means rockfish and as the name suggests, the Electric Yellow Cichlid lives near rock formations in Lake Malawi. In a fish tank, Texas Holey Rock is often used to mimic the Yellow Lab’s natural habitat.
Mbuna cichlids are often overstocked in aquariums to help alleviate aggression. You will need both a properly sized aquarium and adequate filtration to successfully keep an overstocked tank of yellow labs and mbuna cichlids. I would personally keep them in 75 gallon fish tank or larger but you should get by with 55 gallons.
The Yellow Lab, like many other cichlids is semi-aggressive. It is also an omnivore, so it will require a balanced herbaceous and meaty diet. Yellow Lab Cichlids grow to a max size of 6 inches. Like many other African Cichlids, Electric Yellow Cichlids have unique water parameters compared to many other freshwater fish. They need the following water parameters:
Temperature: 72°-78° F
KH 10-15
pH 7.8-8.5
As you can see, Yellow Lab Cichlids require high pH levels and high water hardness. This, along with aggression is why they do not mix well with other tropical fish. Many aquarists will create mbuna only aquariums because the fish are best kept together and others will not do well with these aggressive cichlids.
2. Kribensis Cichlid
Kribensis Cichlids is an African Cichlid that does incredibly well in planted aquariums. They do better with fish such as angelfish, rainbowfish, and larger tetras. Unlike mbunas, your Kribensis aquarium will likely have plants, driftwood, and rocks that will not cause pH levels to spike. There are plenty of different rocks that will not alter your water parameters.
Kribensis are often kept in pairs, usually one male and one female. You do not want to keep two males together because they will likely fight over territory. Also, Kribensis Cichlids will often breed in a fish tank, and they may get incredibly territorial during this time. You should provide plenty of hiding spaces and structures to break up the space in your fish tank. Kribensis will grow to a max size of about 4 inches. I would not keep them in anything smaller than 20 gallons but 30 gallons or higher is preferred.
This species of cichlid does not require very unique water parameters. They have a nice broad range of parameters they will do well in, which are:
Temperature: 72°-80° F
KH 3-10
pH 6.0-8.0
Just like the Yellow Lab Cichlid, Kribensis are omnivorous and will require a good balance of herbaceous and meaty foods. I would provide them with herbaceous foods in the form of pellets and flakes, and frozen foods such as bloodworms or Mysis shrimp for the protein requirements.
There are a few variants of this fish species, but you will commonly see Pelvicachromis pulcher and on rare occasions albino versions of the fish. Albino Kribensis care should be the same as a regular variant.
3. Shell Dweller Cichlid (Shellies)
Shell Dweller Cichlids are a species of Cichlid that come from Lake Tanganyika in Africa. As their name suggests, they spend most of their time in, out, and around Neothauma Snail Shells. They use shells for breeding and shelter so it’s important to provide a variety of clean shells for these fish to utilize. Shell Dwellers grow to be about 2.5 inches in length, so be sure to provide shells that match the size of the fish!
There are a few different species of shell dwellers. They all fall under the genus Neolamprologus. A Shell Dweller fish tank should be a minimum of 10 gallons but I would recommend starting at 20 gallons to provide more horizontal space for the fish. Shellies have a unique water parameter requirement, which is:
Temperature: 75°-80° F
KH 8-25
pH 7.5-9.0
Shellies should be kept in small colonies of at least 6 fish of the same species. If your aquarium is appropriately sized, you can add a few more species of fish from Lake Tanganyika that do not get incredibly large. Shell Dweller Cichlids love to eat meaty food, so I would recommend providing high quality pellet food such as New Life Spectrum Thera A, and feeding a variety of Mysis Shrimp, Brine Shrimp, and Bloodworms.
4. Peacock Cichlid
I am broad when speaking about Peacock Cichlids. There are many variations in colors and species, some commonly seen species are Strawberry Peacock Cichlids, Yellow Peacocks, and Blue Peacock. These fish are originally from Lake Malawi in Africa and they are the definition of vibrant colors! In an aquarium, the dominant Peacock will be the most colorful and eye-catching in the group. The lower the fish are in the hierarchy, the duller in color they often become.
Deciding on tank mates for Peacocks is fairly simple. These fish can often be kept with other Peacocks and also Haplochromis (Haps), but I would not keep them with Mbunas because of their temperaments. Keep in mind that Peacock Cichlids can grow between 5 and 8 inches. Your fish tank should be large enough to house these large and aggressive fish. I would not keep these fish in anything smaller than 75 gallon fish tanks and that is on the small end.
These cichlids have your typical water parameter requirements which are:
Temperature: 76°-82° F
KH 10-15
pH 7.8-8.6
Peacock Cichlids are omnivorous and require a good balance of meaty and herbaceous food. I would recommend pellet food and/or algae sheets for them to graze on. I would also provide them with meaty food as a treat. Common meaty foods for cichlids are bloodworms, Mysis Shrimp and Brine Shrimp. Once they get larger, you can consider feeding them krill which may help their colors pop even more!
5. Frontosa Cichlid
The Frontosa Cichlid is an eye-catching Cichlid found in Lake Tanganyika. First, the colors on this fish are beautiful! It is a subtle blue, white and black color. On top of the color, once either the male or female reaches adulthood, they grow a large hump on their head that makes them stand out from the crowd. Frontosa Cichlids can grow to be over a foot long. They are not known to be as aggressive like many other African Cichlids, but their size can make them problematic. I would not consider keeping this fish in anything smaller than 125 gallons.
Being Haplochromis, Frontosas are very tolerant of high pH waters. They do best in the following water parameters:
Temperature: 72°-82° F
KH 10-20
pH 7.8-9.0
After doing some research, many aquarists have noticed that Frontosa Cichlids seem to be active at night. This can make them a little trickier to keep with other fish because they can harass other fish while they try to rest. Looking passed that, Frontosa Cichlids should do well with other large haps and are also often kept with Peacock Cichlids. Take their nocturnal habits as a caution! Also, Frontosa Cichlids are carnivorous, so it may limit you keep others with a Frontosa due to dietary restrictions.
6. Jewel Cichlid
Jewel Cichlids, also known as the African Jewelfish, are another species of Cichlid that is better suited for planted aquariums compared to what we normally expect with Mbunas, Peacocks, and Haps. Like most of the other fish on this list, the Jewel Cichlid’s coloration is simply remarkable. They are most commonly seen with a vibrant red body and speckled with white/blue dots. This is one of my favorite species of cichlids based on its color patterns.
Choosing tank mates can be challenging because this species can be aggressive. I would not keep tetras or rasboras with Jewel Cichlids because they will likely become food for this fish. An African Jewelfish usually grows to be about 6 inches in an aquarium, so most smaller fish will be out of the question. Good tank mates for this fish should be larger and able to hold their own against this aggressive fish. Based on their aggression and size, I would not keep Jewel Cichlids in anything smaller than 40 gallons. Also, you should consider keeping fish with matching water parameters to the Jewel Cichlid’s, which are:
Temperature: 75°-80° F
KH 5-12
pH 6.5-7.5
African Jewelfish should be kept singularly or in pairs (one male, one female). If they are kept in pairs, the two may become incredibly aggressive when they are breeding because they are very protective parents. Also, they are omnivores and their diet should reflect that. I would recommend feeding your Jewel Cichlids a high-quality pellet food, like the New Life Spectrum Cichlid Formula, and providing it with an occasional treat of bloodworms or Mysis Shrimp.
7. Demasoni Cichlid
Demasoni Cichlids are jaw dropping! I love their black and light blue combination of colors. Although they are gorgeous, this fish species can be very aggressive. I have seen small Demasoni Cichlids chase away Mbunas twice their size. I guess the temperament is necessary coming from Lake Malawi and being surrounded by other aggressive fish. Growing to be about 4 inches as adults, these fish are smaller than most other Mbunas but they can hold their own.
The Demasoni Cichlid has very similar water parameter requirements compared to other fish in Lake Malawi which are:
Temperature: 76°-82° F
KH 10-15
pH 7.8-8.6
Demasoni Cichlids are herbivorous. You should strive to provide high quality algae pellets, algae wafers, and algae sheets to graze on. I would do my best to avoid feeding them meaty foods because that can negatively affect them. Due to their dietary restrictions, some aquarium keepers keep Demasoni Cichlids in a species-only tank, but I have seen them in a Mbuna community as well.
8. Venustus Cichlid
Venustus Cichlids are another species of African Cichlid that calls Lake Malawi its home. This fish species is gorgeous, with white and brown/green patterns all over its body. a Venustus Cichlid male will have vibrant blue faces on top of the already colorful patterns. These species of freshwater fish do best with Mbuna cichlids such as the Electric Lab, Auratus Cichlid, and many more. They will have similar aquarium requirements and I would recommend using Texas Holey Rock and Substrate, such as Carib Sea African Sahara Sand which is designed to help increase the pH and water hardness in the aquarium.
A full grown Venustus Cichlid will be about 10 inches in length. I would not recommend keeping this species of fish in anything smaller than 75 gallons of water. These fish are incredibly messy and will require great filtration to help remove food and waste from their enclosure. Consider setting up an aquarium with a sump system or use a strong canister filter, like the Fluval FX6 Canister Filter to help keep your water parameters in check! Frequent water changes will likely be a must when keeping African Cichlids. Besides keeping an eye on nitrate and phosphate levels, keep track of your temperature, KH levels and pH levels. Venustus Cichlids do best in the following:
Temperature: 72°-80° F
KH 10-15
pH 7.8-8.5
Just like other Mbunas, the Venustus Cichlid does best when the aquarium is overstocked. Surprisingly an overstocked aquarium of Mbuna Cichlids helps prevent aggression. Full grown Venustus Cichlids will likely be some of the bossiest fish in the aquarium because of their size and aggression levels.
This species of Cichlid is omnivorous and will require a good balance of meaty and herbaceous food. I recommend using high-quality pellet foods, such as New Life Spectrum AlgaeMax and/or Algae Seaweed sheets, like the Far Edge Aquatics Green Seaweed for Fish. For meaty foods, I would recommend providing this fish with a combination of brine shrimp, Mysis shrimp, and perhaps krill once it grows larger.
9. OB Red Zebra Cichlid
Another gorgeous Mbuna is the OB Red Zebra Cichlid. If you’re looking for a flash of red/orange color for your Mbuna fish tank, this is your fish. This fish will be a vibrant orange with splotches of dark coloring all over its body. This fish will do best with other Mbunas, such as the Demasoni Cichlid, Yellow Lab Cichlid, and Auratus Cichlid. I would recommend providing OB Red Cichlids with plenty of Texas Holey Rock to hide in.
Full grown OB Red Cichlids will grow to be about 5 inches in length. They will do great in Mbuna aquariums that are 55 gallons or larger. Like most other African Cichlids, OB Zebras are messy and require a good filtration system and frequent water changes to keep nitrates and phosphates down. They will also do best in the following water parameters:
Temperature: 72°-80° F
KH 10-15
pH 7.5-8.5
OB Red Cichlids predominantly eat herbaceous foods such as AlgaeMax pellets or Algae Seaweed Sheets. Meaty food can be provided as a treat but it should not be the main part of its diet.
10. Auratus Cichlid
Auratus Cichlids may be one of the more aggressive African Cichlids. I included them in this list because of their unique color patterns. This fish species has black, yellow, and white stripes running horizontally across its body. Auratus Cichlid tank mates should be Mbunas they originate from Lake Malawi.
A full grown Auratus Cichlid will grow to around 5 inches in length. Do not let their size fool you, these fish can be mean! Regardless, they can be kept in aquariums that are 55 gallons or larger, but more space is highly recommended. Like others, good filtration and frequent water changes will be a must for this fish. Auratus Cichlids have similar water parameter requirements to other Mbunas, they are:
Temperature: 72°-80° F
KH 10-15
pH 7.5-8.5
This fish has an omnivorous diet. I would recommend providing algae sheets or pellet food with large amounts of fiber. Occasionally provide frozen meaty foods such as Mysis Shrimp and Brine Shrimp to help give Auratus Cichlids a well-rounded meal.
Final Notes
There are many different African Cichlids that can be kept in a home aquarium. They all have their quirks and there hopefully one from this list interests you. If you have kept African Cichlids, do not hesitate to contact me and share your experiences with them!
The Neon Pothos (Epipremnum aureum), sometimes called the lime green pothos is a vibrant, lime-colored plant that can be used in terrariums and paludariums. This species of plant gives you a fantastic ability to add a splash of eye popping green into your enclosure. This species of Pothos grows up trees or whatever it can cling to and climbs high to try and reach more sunlight. Overall this is an incredibly hardy plant and does well in a multitude of environments. This article will cover Neon Pothos care in a paludarium or terrarium, and I will provide personal experiences with keeping this plant.
Neon Pothos Light Requirements
In a terrarium or paludarium, the Neon Pothos plant does well in medium to bright lighting. The plant naturally stems up and will climb up surfaces it can attach to. I started to grow mine in a shadier part of my paludarium and it quickly grew up and keeps climbing up my cork bark walls. Trimming and directing this plant’s growth is fairly easy. In low light, the leaves may be smaller and paler. Keep an eye out for that and make sure your plant gets enough light. I currently have this plant growing incredibly well under a NICREW RGB Plus Aquarium Light. The light does a great job bringing out colors in the Pothos and more importantly provides plenty for photosynthesis.
Watering & Humidity
Neon Pothos only needs enough water to moisten the soil. This species is quite resilient and will tolerate wet soils, but over time it may cause harm to it. Yellowing and wilting leaves may be witnessed due to overwatering of this plant. From personal experience, I rarely have to water Pothos in my paludarium because my humidity sits between 60% and 80%. There is enough moisture in the environment to keep this plant happy. I occasionally mist the paludarium but Neon Pothos is quite tolerant if you miss a watering.
On the other hand, I have kept Neon Pothos in a pot outside of my paludarium. The plants out of the paludarium required watering at least once a week. Without watering, I began seeing the leaves droop down and shrivel up. This is partly because my home’s humidity is not nearly as high as the paludarium. Keep a close eye on your plant. Different room temperatures, lighting, environments, and other factors may force you to water this plant more often. Drooping leaves and stems are clear indicators that this plant needs more water.
Neon Pothos Temperature Requirements
Neon Pothos are quite versatile in regards to temperature. They do great in temperatures between 70° and 90° Fahrenheit. They will temporarily tolerate temperatures in the lower 60s but it’s best to keep them warm to maximize growth and health. Luckily, most houses will hit this plant’s temperature range requirements. This is a fairly hardy plant in regards to temperature and is quite forgiving.
Soil and Substrate for Pothos
The Neon Pothos is an epiphytic vine. In the wild, it is often found high up in trees. This detail can already help determine what type of substrate Neon Pothos will need. Water flows down trees due to gravity which means that Neon Pothos will rarely sit in the soggy substrate. Also, because they grow in trees, there may be a lack of soil altogether. The best soil and/or substrate for Neon Pothos will drain well, retain water, and provide aeration for the roots. I have personally had great luck with Zoo Med Eco Earth substrate but other fibrous substrates should work perfectly fine. You can even consider ReptiChip Compressed Coconut Chip Substrate.
Fibrous substrates should drain water fairly well and their size will also help keep the roots aerated. You can help retain water around your Neon Pothos by adding mosses around the base of this plant. Placing Zoo Med’s New Zealand Sphagnum Moss around your Pothos will help provide water retention for this plant. The moss will slowly grow around and spread around the pothos and give a more natural look.
Extra Information about Neon Pothos
Is Pothos Toxic?
Neon Pothos is dangerous to humans and pets if consumed. Keep this plant out of reach of children and be sure your pet does not consume this species of plant. They are safe to touch but may irritate the skin when propagating or pruning. I would suggest wearing gloves when working with this plant.
Can Pothos be submerged in water?
Pothos should not be fully submerged in water. They are a terrestrial plant species and struggle fully submerged because they need to exchange oxygen from the air. However, there are two ways pothos will do well around water. First, and in my opinion, the best way to grow pothos in water, is to only submerge part of the stem. Doing this will allow your pothos to root into the water but keep their leaves above the water’s surface. The pothos will release large, long roots into your water and provide hiding spaces for your fish.
You can submerge pothos in water but some leaves will need to be above the water’s surface to exchange gasses with the air. It will not do well fully submerged but a good portion can be underwater. If you’re looking for plants that are fully aquatic check out 5 Great Aquarium Plants for Low light Aquariums.
Final Notes
Neon Pothos and most other Pothos species are fantastic plants for paludariums and terrariums. They come in many different variations, like the Jade or Golden Pothos, each with their own colorations and appearance. Although harder to find, variegated neon pothos can also be found from time to time. Be mindful that when consumed, this plant can be dangerous but otherwise it is incredibly safe and removes toxins from the air.
The Celestial Pearl Danio (Danio margaritatus) is a gorgeous freshwater fish with vibrant colorations and a fantastic personality. It is a popular fish in the hobby and a must have for a planted fish tank. Also known as the Galaxy Rasbora, this species of fish enjoys living in groups larger than 6 because of their social nature. Celestial Pearl Danio’s max size will be around 1 in. (2.5 cm) and it has a lifespan between 3 and 5 years. Overall, this is a very peaceful and fairly hardy fish but it can also be very timid! We will dive into the requirements of keeping this beautiful freshwater fish species.
Aquarium Requirements
This fish remains small, but will require at least a 10 gallon aquarium to be happy. You should be able to keep between 6 and 8 Celestial Pearl Danios in a 10 gallon aquarium. I would add 2 gallons of water for each additional fish added. I would not recommend keeping this fish in anything smaller, such as a 5 gallon or 1 gallon fish tank. Those are too small for shoaling fish.
Recommended Water Parameters
Galaxy Rasboras do well in a wide range of water parameters. They will do well with many other fish species because of this. However, Celestial Pearl Danios temperature requirements are higher than some other species of danio. This fish species will require a heater. If you are looking for cool water fish, check out White Cloud Mountain Minnows, Leopard Danios, or Zebra Danios. Those fish tolerate cooler waters. If you need suggestions on heaters, check out Aquarium Heaters for Freshwater & Saltwater Fish Tanks. The following are the water parameter requirements for this fish species:
Water Temperature: 72° – 78° F
pH: 6.5 – 7.5
KH: 2 – 10 dKH
The water parameters that are required to keep Galaxy Rasboras make it an excellent candidate for a planted fish tank! The parameter requirements for this fish are fairly similar to a lot of different freshwater fish species, but I would still recommend doing research on every fish before purchase.
Do Celestial Pearl Danios Jump?
This, of course is a trick question. Any fish can jump out of an aquarium if they are committed and I would recommend having a lid on. However, to my knowledge Celestial Pearl Danios do not commonly jump out of fish tanks. If they do, it’s suggested that something startled them which would cause them to bolt up and jump out.
Celestial Pearl Danio Diet
The Galaxy Rasbora is an omnivore. This gives us plenty of different options for food! They can eat high quality flake food such as New Life Spectrum’s Optimum Flakes. At full size, they should be able to consume New Life Spectrum Thera A pellet food, which will help bring out more colors in Celestial Pearl Danios. This fish should also readily consume bloodworms, algae wafers, brine shrimp and other small frozen foods.
Fully sized Celestial Pearl Danios should do ok with smaller species of shrimp, such as Neocaridina. Shrimp babies may get eaten but the adults should not become a snack for this fish. If you’re paranoid of losing your shrimp, consider larger species of shrimp such as the Amano Shrimp.
Celestial Pearl Danio Tank Mates
This species of fish are for the most part incredibly peaceful. They will more than likely leave other fish alone, but may chase after one another. The Celestial Pearl Danio should do well with most other community fish. Always consider aquarium size limitations before purchasing fish. Rasboras, Tetras, Danios, Guppies and Corydoras should do incredibly well with this fish. In a large enough and heavily planted aquarium, Celestial Pearl Danio with Dwarf Gourami can be possible but I personally prefer Honey Gouramis.
As stated earlier, very small (baby) shrimp may become a meal for this fish. However, Celestial Pearl Danios and Cherry Shrimp, Red Crystal Shrimp, and other Neocaridina should be fine once the shrimp are adults. The fish’s mouth should be too small to consume adult shrimp.
How to Breed Celestial Pearl Danios
Celestial Pearl Danios will breed fairly easily in an aquarium setting. The biggest thing is finding the fish for sale and figuring out the correct ratio of Celestial Pearl Danios males and females. Usually you would want less males and more females. I often recommend 1 male for every 3-4 females. This will help deter aggression between males and increase spawning opportunities. If you’re really interested in breeding Celestial Pearl Danios, consider setting up a breeding tank that only has this species of fish. Check out this video that goes into a great level of detail on how to breed Galaxy Rasboras at home.
Overall, Galaxy Rasboras are fairly easy to breed as long as their water parameters are inline with what they need. Otherwise, you just need to fatten them up and let nature run its course. Successfully growing fry into adults is where things may get a little more challenging.
Final Notes
Galaxy Rasbora are an incredibly beautiful freshwater fish. If you are looking for a colorful animal to put into your aquarium, consider this species. You will (hopefully) not be disappointed. They’re a little tough to acquire but you may be able to find Celestial Pearl Danio for sale in certain fish stores near you but more commonly online. There are plenty of online pet stores and breeders that are selling this fish!
Bottom Feeders are the backbone of a lot of aquariums. These fish are the janitors or part of the cleanup crew in your fish tank. There are many different kinds of species of bottom dwelling fish. They all come in different shapes, sizes and nuances. This article will discuss some of the best bottom dwelling fish for freshwater aquariums. The fish here will vary in species, aggression, colorations and more.
1. Cory Catfish
You can’t start a bottom dweller list without Cory Catfish. I lumped them all together because (in my opinion) all Cory Cats are great. These beautiful shoaling fish are excellent bottom feeders. They love sitting at the bottom of the substrate, waiting for food or they’ll swim around scavenging. They’re fun fish with amazing personalities and are incredibly friendly so they’re perfect for community fish tanks. There are two species of Cory that I will highlight because of unique characteristics they possess.
Pygmy Cory
The first Cory Catfish I wanted to highlight is the Pygmy Cory. The unique characteristic this fish has is in the name. The Pygmy Cory is a small fish and it remains fairly small its whole life. You will likely never see see one larger than 1.5 inches (~3.2 cm). Because of it’s max size being so small, this fish is excellent for fish tanks that are 10 gallons or larger. A fish tank this large will allow you to create a shoal that is at least 6 corys strong. Larger shoals are always better so the more corys you can keep the happier they will be.
Emerald Green Cory
The Emerald Green Cory is the second fish I would like to highlight. This fish’s unique characteristic is its coloration. There are green fish available purchase but it’s not as common as blue, red and silver colorations. The Emerald Cory’s green color is vibrant and very well looks like an emerald! Unlike the Pygmy Cory Catfish, the Emerald Green Cory grows to have a max size of 3.5 inches. They require at least 30 gallons of water to be happy. Similarly to other Cory Cats, this species of fish requires to be in a shoal of at least 6 fish to be happy.
The Bristlenose Pleco, sometimes called the Bushy Nose Pleco, is a fantastic fish to add to fish tanks that are 30 gallons or larger. The Bristlenose Pleco is a fantastic algae eater which does not get incredibly large. It will grow to be roughly 6 inches in size but does a great job eating algae at every stage of life. If this pleco runs out of algae to eat, you will have to supplement it with algae wafers or other foods. The Bushy Nose Plecostomus has a unique feature to it. The males of this species grow a face full of whiskers. On the other hand, the females grow much smaller whiskers. It’s a unique but incredibly cool feature of this fish. You can find different variants of Bristlenose Pleco for sale in stores and online. You can find them in regular, albino, red and other varieties.
3. Kuhli Loach
The Kuhli Loach is a long “noodle like” fish that is very popular in the hobby. This fish species spends a lot of its time scavenging for food along substrate and is an excellent bottom feeder. A Kuhli Loach’s max size will be around 4-5 inches. This makes it perfect for aquariums that are 20 gallons or larger. They love to burrow so having sand in the aquarium is incredibly beneficial for them. Overall, they are a very peaceful fish and does well with other community fish like tetras, rasboras, and other fish. They can get territorial with other Kuhli Loaches so I would recommend adding 5 extra gallons of water for each additional loach.
If you’re looking to remove pest snails, you will have to look at other loaches. Unlike other loach species, you will rarely see a Kuhli Loach eat snails. However, it is possible for these loaches to eat smaller species of shrimp. If you really want to keep shrimp with this loach, Amano Shrimp and other larger shrimp have a better chance of survival. If you’re looking for ways to remove pest snails, check out this guide, which shows different methods of controlling and removing nuisance snails.
4. Clown Loach
Clown Loaches are a fantastic bottom feeder, if you have the room to house it! Although it is a very slow grower, the Clown Loach size maxes at 1 foot! They require at least a 100 gallon fish tank once they are fully grown. If you can house one, I highly recommend it. They have very cool colorations and interesting personalities. This fish species will spend quite a bit of time foraging for leftover food and invertebrates in a fish tank. That’s right, the Clown Loach is an excellent invertebrate hunter. There is no snail or shrimp that is safe from this fish! If you have an infestation of snails, consider getting a Clown Loach or for smaller tanks, get a Yoyo Loach which is further down this list!
5. Otocinclus
Otocinclus are incredible bottom feeders that are an excellent addition to nano fish tanks. They do great in fish tanks that are 10 gallons or larger. Ottos love being in groups. I would keep a minimum of 6 in a fish tank but more is always recommended. Otocinclus eat brown algae as well as green algae. They’re fantastic fish to own and having a group of them adds a liveliness into the fish tank. The one drawback to this fish is that they can be very sensitive. They’re not known to be hardy fish and even in established fish tanks sometimes struggle. With that in mind, be cautious when adding Ottos into your fish tank.
6. Yoyo Loach
If you need a pest snail hunting fish, Yoyo Loaches might be what you’re looking for. This fish is an excellent invertebrate hunter and will take down snails and shrimp. Keep that in mind if you have snails and shrimp you want to keep in the tank. With their very interesting colorations and pattern work, a Yoyo Loach should be kept in fish tanks that are 30 gallon or larger. They will spend their days hunting inverts and consuming whatever food makes its way down to the substrate.
Knowing that Redtail Sharks aren’t always the kindest fish in the fish tank, you have to admit that their colorations are beautiful! A lot of people miss out on keeping Redtails because of their temperament, which is understandable. This fish can take over the fish tank and pick on everything inside. If you’re lucky, they can be incredibly peaceful and keep to themselves. Redtail Sharks will definitely be more aggressive towards bottom dwelling fish. I would not recommend keeping them with Cory cats, Plecos, and most other bottom feeders. This fish can potentially pick on other fish even outside of their territory. Be vigilant when keeping Redtails.
Redtail Sharks get to be 4 inches in length. This might not seem very big but their aggression can make up for it. If you are thinking of keeping this fish, I would suggest housing it in aquariums 55 gallons or larger. Also, provide it with plenty of plants, hiding places of varying sizes and other nooks and crannies it can hide in. Providing all of this may help in keeping the Redtail Shark’s aggression down a bit. You can find Redtail Sharks for sale at most pet stores and online!
8. Clown Pleco
The Clown Pleco is a unique species of bottom feeder. Along with algae and leftover food, much of the fish’s diet is driftwood! It’s a unique quirk, and you may even hear it munching on wood from outside the aquarium. A Clown Plecos size maxes at around 4 inches. It is great for fish tanks that are 20 gallons or larger. Some hobbyists do not keep Clown Plecos because of the amount of waste they produce due to their unique diet. If you’re interested in learning more about this fish, check out the Clown Pleco Complete Care Guide!
9. Hillstream Loach
I had to add the Hillstream Loach also known as the Reticulated Hillstream Loach into this list. Not as much for it’s ability to be an excellent bottom feeder but because its overall appearance. The Hillstream Loach has a very flat body which helps it stay put in fast flowing waters. In the wild it lives in fast moving, highly oxygenated and cooler waters. Your aquarium should mimic the appearance of a river, with strong filtration and possibly a powerhead/circulation pump to provide fast currents for this fish. Hillstream Loach care might limit what can be mixed with it. Regardless, this is a very fascinating and rewarding fish to keep in a fish tank!
Final Notes
There are many other bottom feeders that will do very well in a fish tank. I wanted to name off some of the best and unique that I have come across. If you have bottom dwelling fish that you love, let me know! I am always happy to learn more and spread the information along.
Fish tanks, especially planted aquariums can be overrun with pest snails. These little invertebrates may hitchhike into your aquarium on plants or other aquatic decor purchased at a fish store. If caution isn’t taken, these little nuisances can take over your tank which can become a headache. There are ways to help prevent your aquarium from being invaded by nuisance snails and there are ways to help control pest snails once they enter your aquarium.
Help Prevent Nuisance Snail Invasions
As stated above, these little invaders may hitchhike into your aquarium from plants purchased at pet stores. Often, the snail itself will not be hanging onto the plant but its eggs will. The eggs are hard to see because they are almost clear. Before placing plants into your fish tank visually inspect each plant. Check the leaves and stems for snails and eggs. I also recommend running your fingers through each of your plant’s stems to feel for nuisance snail eggs. They will most likely be wet and squishy. This is not always successful but it’s a measure you can take to help remove pest snails.
Bleaching Plants
If you’re still paranoid of bringing snails into your fish tank, bleaching your plants is something that can be done before adding plants into your fish tank. If you know the fish store you purchased your plants from has pest snails, you can remove snails and by using a watered down bleach solution. I recommend using a ratio of 3/4 cups of bleach to a gallon of water. Mix the solution in a bucket to evenly disperse the bleach and then place your new plants in the solution for 2-3 minutes. Remove the plants from the solution and rinse them under running water for about 5 minutes. This should help eradicate baby pest snails and adult snails. Most treatments will not kill off eggs though!
It is harsh on plants and I would be weary of trying this method on more delicate plants. Hardy plants like Anubias and Java Fern will be more tolerable of a diluted bleach solution compared to less hardy plants like Madagascar Lace. This solution can kill a plant so assess the risk before conducting it.
How to Control Pest Snails in Aquarium
Freshwater aquarium pest snails can be easily missed and can make their way into your fish tank. If snails are already in your fish tank, there are measures you can take to help lower the population but also remove them completely. Not every method will work but using a combination of each can help remove these invaders.
Population Control Pest Snails
The first step that should be taken, in my opinion, is to attempt controlling the population of snails that are in your fish tank. Controlling the population will not guarantee the removal of snails but it will slow down the invasion. One way to control the population is to physically remove the snails. Get down and dirty and pluck the little inverts with tongs or your hands. I personally use the tongs from an aquarium planting kit like this one from Amazon. It helps keep my hands out of the water and I can often get into the nooks and crannies my hands can’t normally fit into.
Trap & Remove
The second method I would use to help control the population is to “trap” and remove snails that you cannot find or see. Something as simple as a piece of lettuce on a fish feeding clip will attract nuisance snails. Set the trap up at night before bed, leave it there throughout the night. Check on it in the morning and you should have plenty of little snails munching on lettuce. Once a bunch are on there, take out the lettuce, remove the snails and rise and repeat the process. Please do not flush nuisance snails down the toilet. If they are not native to our waterways they can invade our streams, rivers and lakes!
Cut Down on Feeding
Part of our excitement in keeping fish is feeding the animals you owns. Many times and without knowing, we overfeed our pets. This is just perfect for pest snails. They will utilize the leftover food and this can be part of the reason their populations explode. Cut down on feeding and see how the snail’s populations react. It won’t change overnight, but this can assist in lowering the snail population in your aquarium.
How To Kill Pest Snails in Fish Tanks
There are many different ways we can kill pest snails in a fish tank. Snails are on the bottom of the food chain so there are plenty of aquatic animals that will eat them. You can also kill them chemically (not my preference). We have options to work with and I will go and discuss some methods we can take.
Assassin Snails
Assassin Snails are a species of snails that assassinate other snails. They have little stinger that they use to paralyze snails and possibly other small animals. It’s not as common for them to go after shrimp and larger snails but there is always a small risk. If there are small snails in the tank, they will most likely focus on them. You may need more than one Assassin Snail if your fish tank is completely overrun with nuisance snails. They’re not very big themselves but should get straight to work once introduced into an aquarium. These snails are an excellent choice for Nano fish tanks that can’t house snail eating fish due to capacity limitations.
Loaches
Loaches are excellent snail eaters. However, there are many different loach species, and they all have different aquarium requirements. It’s important to research information on anything before adding it into your fish tank. Regardless, this fish can and will decimate snail populations. Clown Loaches and Yo-Yo Loaches always come to mind when I think of snail hunters. Clown Loaches grow slowly but will outgrow small aquariums and the YoYo Loach is excellent for aquariums 20 gallons or larger. As a warning, most snail and shrimp can become a snack for loaches. Loaches can really clean up a fish tank with snails.
Puffer Fish
Freshwater Puffer Fish are not very practical for many aquariums. They are often times very territorial and will nip on most fish. However, if you have an empty fish tank infested with snails, consider getting Puffer Fish. There are many different species to choose from. The smallest and probably the most practical to keep is the Pea Puffer. They will grow no larger than 1.5 inches but are mean and these little fish can devastate snail populations. If you are looking into get one, know that they are aggressive amongst themselves so I personally would only keep 1 in 10 gallons.
Chemical Removal
My last resort to remove nuisance snails is through the use of chemicals. Just like with other fish tank ailments like algae problems, I stray away from using chemicals unless it is the last option. However, if you’re snail infestation has gone off the deep end, consider using chemicals to help eradicate them. I am not talking about bleach or hydrogen peroxide. There are chemicals that are “relatively” safe for aquarium use. Copper is often used to treat sick fish and also remove nuisance snails. Cupramine by Seachem is one that comes to mind. Be sure to also purchase the Seachem Copper Test Kit to monitor how much copper is in your fish tank if you choose to go this route.
Invertebrates are incredibly sensitive to copper so make sure any inverts you want alive are removed before dosing. Also, copper can be harsh on your system as a whole. Do your best to not overdose because that can end up being lethal to fish as well. This dosing can cause quick die off of nuisance snails. Remember to remove the dead/dying snails. They can quickly make your water parameters suffer if not kept in check. Lastly, the copper can linger in your aquarium even after a few water changes. Keep track of the copper levels before reintroducing invertebrates into your fish tank.
Final Notes
Freshwater Pest Snails are relatively not bad for an aquarium. They are beneficial because like many other snails, they act as a clean up crew to remove food and algae. However, they can really become a nuisance if not kept under control. I highly recommend trying to naturally remove nuisance snails before moving on to more dangerous control methods. It’s better to remove the source of the problem rather than putting a Band-Aid over it.
The Clown Plecostomus is a freshwater fish that is often missed in this hobby. it is a gorgeously colored fish that is an excellent addition to an aquarium. This beautiful fish spends its time in a fish tank eating away at leftover food, algae and driftwood. Yes, this species of fish love and require driftwood in the fish tank. They munch on driftwood often, to the point that you can sometimes hear the crunching outside of the fish tank. It is great for smaller aquariums because a full grown Clown Pleco is only 4 inches. One thing to note, is that Clown Plecos will produce a lot of waste due to their unique diet. You may have to siphon and physically remove the waste from your aquariums.
You can find the Clown Pleco for sale online and not as commonly in stores. This guide will go over the aquarium requirements, diet, tank mate compatibility and breeding habits of this fish species. All of this will help you provide proper Clown Pleco care.
Aquarium Requirements
Because of the Clown Pleco size in adulthood, it should do well in fish tanks that are 20 gallons or larger. This should provide it enough room to move around. A fish tank this large will help prevent water parameters from negatively spiking because of this fish’s ability to produce a lot of waste. A full grown Clown Pleco will be very happy in a 20 gallon aquarium as long as plenty of hiding spaces are available.
Clown Plecos should do perfectly fine with live plants although it may nibble on plants if hungry. They normally focus on algae and driftwood for sources of food. Also, Clown Plecos are normally not known for jumping but still consider keeping a well fitted lid on your fish tank.
Do Clown Plecos Need Driftwood?
The answer to this question is yes. Clown Plecos do need to be able to chew on driftwood to provide them with additional nutrients and supplements not normally found in regular foods. Check out some driftwood on Amazon but really think of your aquarium’s size before finalizing a purchase! As a side note, certain driftwoods will leach tannins into your fish tank. It is recommended to boil your driftwood for about 30 minutes to help prevent this from happening.
Water Parameters
Like any other fish or aquatic invertebrate, having excellent and stable water parameters is one of the most important things to keep your pet happy and healthy. Clown Plecos are no different in this aspect. The following water parameters will help keep this fish comfortable and not stressed:
Temperature Range: 74-80°F
pH Range: 6.5 – 7.5
KH Range: 6-10
Healthy water parameters for freshwater fish tanks do not really have a sweet spot. You will have to research information on fish species and determine parameters that the fish thrive in. Many fish are incompatible because of this.
Clown Pleco Diet
As stated before in this article, you will need driftwood for Clown Plecos which you can easily find on Amazon or many pet stores. A Clown Pleco’s diet will primarily consist of driftwood, algae, leftover fish food and algae wafers you provide. If there is no algae in the fish tank, supplementing your pleco with algae wafers is a must! If you Pleco goes on the glass, you can monitor how fed it is by observing the belly. Indented bellies are signs that your Plecos are starving.
Clown Plecos like most other plecos primarily have a herbaceous diet. However, like any other fish, they are opportunists. If there is a chance to eat, they will take it. Clown Plecos will not actively hunt fish and freshwater inverts but if one is on its last legs or freshly dead, they will more than likely try to eat it.
Tank Mates
Clown Plecos are very peaceful fish. They will normally keep to themselves and not bother any fish swimming about. If there isn’t enough room, Clown Plecos will fight with others of the same species for territory. Otherwise they’re excellent for community tanks. They do great with fish such as:
This list isn’t the full extent of what can be kept with Clown Plecos. They will do great with just about every species of Tetra, Livebearers, Rasboras, Gouramis and more. I would personally keep them away from more aggressive species of cichlids like Tiger Oscars, Jack Dempsey and others. They are also incompatible with fish like African Cichlids because of the differences in water parameters. Do some research before deciding what species of fish to add into a fish tank!
Clown Pleco Breeding
Breeding Clown Plecos is a little difficult. In order to do so, first you have to find a male and female to breed. Male Clown Plecos will have a few more bristles on its head compared to the female. If you are not purposely trying to breed them you can house a male/female pair together in a 30 gallon fish tank. Otherwise you would have to provide a breeding tank for these fish.
Aquarium Setup
In a normal aquarium setting, it will be important to provide this fish with a lot of driftwood and caves. Clown Plecos will more than likely lay their eggs in these caves. If you are using a breeding tank, you will have a similar setup. Furthermore, you will have to lower the water level in the fish tank roughly 30% to trigger a drought season. Once 30% of the water is removed, you will need to refill it with clean water to initiate a large rain event. If you do this there is a chance Clown Plecos will begin to breed.
Feeding & Time
I would recommend feeding your Clown Plecos a diet rich in nutrients after refilling the fish tank with clean water. This replicates an increase in nutrients & resources which are ideal breeding conditions. Otherwise, only time will tell whether this fish will breed and spawn. Males will guard the eggs until they are hatched which can take about a month.
Final Notes
Clown Plecos are a cool fish to add into a freshwater aquarium. If you are okay with the amount of waste they produce, they can be a fantastic talking point to visitors and viewers of the fish tank. They stay small so are excellent for smaller aquariums but still are great addons to larger fish tanks. If are interested in other great algae eaters for freshwater aquariums, check out this list!
The Roseline Shark or sometimes known as the Roseline Torpedo Shark, Roseline Barb, or Denison Barb is a gorgeous freshwater fish that falls under the barb family. This species has two variations, the regular Roseline Shark and its counterpart the Gold Roseline Shark. After doing a little digging, it seems the Gold Roseline Shark is a mutated form of the regular Roseline Shark. This freshwater fish species is fairly peaceful and loves to school with fish of the same species.
You can find the Roseline Shark for sale online and less commonly at pet stores. On the other hand, at the time of this writing, you can rarely find the Gold Roseline Shark for sale both online and pet stores. Regardless, ask whether your local pet store can order them for you.
Aquarium Requirements
Just like any other fish out there, there are specific aquarium requirements to keep this species happy. To begin, the Denison Barb’s max size is about 4.5 inches. I would keep a small school of Denison Barbs in a fish tank that is 55 gallons or larger. This Torpedo Shark does very well in an aquarium with freshwater plants but they can nip at the plants. I would recommend hardy more resilient plants with Denison Barbs. Also, this species of fish appreciate high oxygen levels in aquariums because they are often seen in fast moving streams in the wild. Consider adding an air pump to your fish tank to provide extra oxygen. This shark shaped air pump from Amazon is an excellent choice.
Keeping your water parameters up to par is probably one of the most important things in this fishkeeping hobby. It’s important to have stable parameters for the health of your freshwater fish. Roseline Sharks do best in the following water parameter ranges:
Temperature Range: 60-77° F
KH Range: 4-10,
pH Range: 6.8-7.8
When water parameters are in check, Roseline Sharks are hardy fish. I would not recommend using them to cycle a fish tank. Lastly, The Roseline Barb fish is prone to jumping out of aquariums. It is important to keep a lid on your fish tank to help prevent this from happening. Regardless, they are a cool freshwater fish with a unique shape and coloration.
Food & Diet
This freshwater fish is omnivorous. Denison Barbs will happily take on both meaty foods and foods that are more fibrous, like algae wafers. Providing a mixture and balance of both will benefit this species of fish. I would highly recommend feeding this fish frozen food such as bloodworms & Mysis Shrimp and high quality flake/pellet food. I personally prefer feeding my fish frozen food over freeze dried food when dealing with bloodworms and Mysis Shrimp but everyone has their preferences.
Roseline Sharks are not fin nippers but they are highly competitive during feeding time so they may bully other fish. Also, this freshwater fish can become aggressive when it is in an aquarium that is too small or in a school that does not have enough fish. Otherwise, they will pick on each other from time to time but should not really bother other fish species. You can easily keep Denison Barbs with fish that are similar in size. I would not recommend aggressive cichlids but fish such as:
Will do fantastic with Roseline Sharks. There are many other fish species that will work but these are some of the most common kept together. Fish being fish, they may take a chance at eating anything that will fit into their mouths. I personally would be weary about keeping small fish like Ember Tetras, Chili Rasbora, Neon Tetras and others with Roseline Torpedo Sharks.
Roseline Shark Breeding
Although Roseline Torpedo Sharks are successfully bred in commercial fisheries I could not find any concrete information on how to breed them successfully in an aquarium setting. Certain Zoos & Aquariums may have had luck but in a small fish tank enclosure it is incredibly hard to almost impossible to do. If you have any information on Roseline Shark breeding, please let us know!
Final Notes
This fish species is a gorgeous animal and an excellent choice for anyone looking for a large schooling fish. They dominate a fish tank and become a fantastic centerpiece. If you’re considering different freshwater fish, really consider the Roseline Shark. This is not a fish I would recommend if you’re very fresh to the hobby but it definitely is one I would recommend once some experience is gained.
Halloween is just around the corner and it’s time to start thinking about Halloween themed fish tanks! If you love the spooky season, I know you’ll love setting up a fish tank filled with some oddball fish that fit the theme. Even if you’re not all of these are really cool fish that would look great in most aquariums. The following freshwater fish will get anyone’s head turning.
You can’t start off a Halloween themed fish list without Bleeding Heart Tetras. This species of fish is a faint pink and/or clear color with a dark pink patch where its heart is. This tetra fish is great for Halloween because of this pink patch. As the name suggest, it resembles a bleeding heart. Blood is a common decoration theme for Halloween. The Bleeding Heart Tetra Fish is a peaceful fish that is perfect for aquariums that are 10 gallon or larger. Take a look at their quick care guide here. This freshwater fish species has a similar shape to Serpae Tetras, Ember Tetra and Black Skirt Tetra. You can find the Bleeding Heart Tetra fish for sale fairly commonly online and in stores.
The Ghost Catfish, commonly knows as the Glass Catfish or Ghost Glass Catfish, is the next species of freshwater fish on our list. This fish species falls into the spooky theme because it is translucent and looks like a skeleton. If you look closely you can see through the Ghost Catfish. You can also see its vertebrae, just like you would on an actual skeleton! This skeleton fish can live up to 8 years under ideal fish tank conditions. Also, a full grown glass catfish will be about 4 inches long. It will require an aquarium that is 30 gallons or larger. You can find Glass Catfish for sale commonly online but a little more sparsely at fish stores.
Next, we have the Albino Corydoras Catfish. This bottom dwelling fish looks eerie with its very white/tan body and red eyes. It fits the spooky theme for a fish tank because it looks so creepy. Overall, they are incredibly peaceful fish and great additions to fish tanks larger than 30 gallons. It normally like to shoal (school) so having a small army of fish from the undead is ideal. Albino Cory size will reach about 2.5 inches when fully grown. You can easily feed Albino Cory Catfish bottom feeder tablets but they will also feed on any food that falls to the bottom of the fish tank.
Painted Platy (Xiphophorus maculatus)
The common colors for Halloween are orange and black. That is the main reason the Painted Platy falls onto this list. This species of freshwater fish is a beautiful orange and black color that will pop in any spooky themed fish tank. The Painted Platy fish will grow to be 2 inches in length so it is perfect for 10 gallon fish tanks or larger. They are generally peaceful fish and should be kept with other community fish.
Beware, if you have male and female Painted Platy Fish, there is a strong possibility of them breeding like there is no tomorrow. Don’t let that stop you from picking up this black, orange sometimes yellow platy fish. You can find this platy for sale online and may spot them at pet stores.
Glofish
Glofish are very cool fish. Their vibrant colors makes them perfect for a Halloween fish tank! Many people ask, “Do Glofish glow in the dark”? They do not, but you can throw on a blue light with these fish in your aquarium and your fish tank will pop with color! Glofish are not one species. You can find Glofish Danios, White Fin Tetras, and Tiger Barbs. The Danio and Tetra Glofish are peaceful but the Tiger Barb Glofish are not. Click on the following links if you’re interested in Glofish and setting up a Glofish specific tank. You can commonly find Glofish for sale both online and in stores!
Additional Halloween Fish Tank Ideas
There are many other things you can add to create a Halloween fish tank. Choose some spooky decorations such as a Skeleton sailor or skulls. You can also add artificial fish tank plants that are incredibly vibrant under blue lighting. Check out this link for plant ideas. The options are limitless for what you can do to create the perfect Halloween fish tank!
Final Notes
Themed fish tanks are a lot of fun because you really have to think outside of the box to make it look incredible. Luckily there are many different fish species that fit the theme as well. If themed fish tanks are not for you or you are unfamiliar with setting up aquariums, take a look at the guide that will help setup a simple freshwater fish tank!
The African Butterflyfish is an oddly shaped but very beautiful freshwater fish available in the aquarium keeping hobby. It is unique because it sits right under the water’s surface, resembles a butterfly/bird, and can actually glide a little if it jumps out of the aquarium. As a disclaimer, please do not allow this to happen! The African Butterfly grows to be about 5 inches so it does not get incredibly big but may try and eat anything that will fit into its mouth. This article will go over aquarium requirements, food & dietary needs, compatible tank mates and breeding habits of the African Butterfly Fish.
Aquarium Requirements
The African Butterfly Fish spends most of its time just under the water’s surface. An aquarium with slower water movement is best suited for this fish. This can be hard to achieve because filtration systems naturally create varying rates of water movement.
Because of its adult size, an African Butterfly should not be kept in an aquarium smaller than 30 gallons. To keep more African Butterfly Fish, you should also consider providing even more space. Although they are usually mild tempered, they can get a little aggressive so providing plenty of space should deter most aggression.
African Butterfly Fish are unfortunately excellent jumpers (and gliders). A well fitted lid is a must in the aquarium. Otherwise, this fish has a good chance of escaping. Furthermore, provide plants that reach close to the water surface. This will give this fish places to hide when startled or stressed.
This species of fish is hardy regarding temperature but the pH in the aquarium will need fine tuning. The African Butterfly Fish does best in the following water parameters:
Temperature: 75°-86° F
pH: 6.5-7.5
KH: 1-10
Luckily, the pH requirement is neither incredibly acidic or basic. It sits right around neutral which should be fairly easy to achieve. Be careful when using buffers to lower or raise pH. Overdosing certain buffers can cause your system to crash with a sudden drop or increase in pH levels. Stability in water is very important to keep your fish and system healthy!
Food & Diet
This species of fish is carnivorous. It waits right under the water’s surface for prey to come close or fall in the water and the prey quickly becomes a meal. However, the African Butterfly Fish food type provided by you, as a keeper, can vary. This fish species can eat bloodworms, brine shrimp, Mysis shrimp, Beef Heart and much more meaty foods found in pet stores. If you are feeling adventurous, you can step outside and catch flies and moths to feed your African Butterfly Fish. Be careful because foods caught outside can bring parasites, bacteria and diseases into your fish tank. It is really fun watching the African Butterfly eat.
Tank Mates
African Butterfly Fish’s tank mates should be both for the most part be larger in size and peaceful. This species of fish will try eating anything that will fit into its mouth. Smaller fish such as: tetras, rasboras and guppies are not recommended. Furthermore, hatchet fish use the same space as the African Butterfly Fish and also not recommended. I have heard success stories of keeping smaller species of fish with African Butterfly Fish, but it’s always a big risk to do so.
African Butterfly Fish do great with larger and peaceful fish such as Severums, Angelfish, Rainbowfish, Denison Barbs and Blood Parrots. They will get harassed by aggressive cichlid species like Jack Dempseys, Tiger Oscars and so on. Be mindful of the species you add with this fish. Some may either be too aggressive, too small, or live in incompatible water parameters.
Breeding
You will need a few things to successfully breed African Butterfly Fish. You will of course need a male and female willing to breed. I would highly recommend adding Salvinia, which is a floating plant, in the aquarium that has the breeding adults. The eggs will more than likely float to the top of the aquarium and the plants will help protect them.
The breeding African Butterfly Fish will need to go through a “natural” breeding season. We will recreate the breeding season in an aquarium setting. The two key factors to successfully breeding this fish species are water level changes and water temperature changes. The temperature should sit between 77° and 80
The breeding African Butterfly Fish will need to go through a “natural” breeding season. We will recreate the breeding season in an aquarium setting. The two key factors to successfully breeding this fish species are water level changes and water temperature changes. The temperature should sit between 77° and 80° F. The more important thing to do is to lower the water level a few inches. Some aquarists lower the water level to where only a few inches are left. This will be impossible in an aquarium with other fish.
Once water levels are lowered, wait a few days and you should see the fish breed. Increase water levels and if you’re lucky you will see your fish release eggs. I would recommend scooping the eggs up and putting them into their own containers. Otherwise, the adults will eat them. Once the eggs hatch, they must be consistently fed live baby brine shrimp until they are old enough to eat other foods.
Final Notes
African Butterfly Fish are very interesting and unique fish that are great additions to specific aquarium types. They have certain requirements that may not work well with all fish. Breeding is fairly easy for these fish but keeping the young alive may be a challenge. If you’re ever at a pet store, check out African Butterfly Fish. Also, take a look at Atparium for more information on fish, reptiles, crustaceans and more!
The Elephant Nose is a very unique fish that is sometimes forgotten about in this hobby. It’s easy to skip out on a fish that doesn’t have flashy colors and hides a good portion of the day. However, you should really look passed that and check out this oddball! The Elephant Nose is an oddly shaped fish with a part of it’s body that looks like an elephant’s trunk. It uses this trunk to look for food, for self defense and communication. Furthermore, this fish releases very weak electrical signals (like sonar) to help find food.
Be patient with the Elephant Nose because they are incredibly shy and reclusive animals. They will often dart and hide into caves to avoid contact with humans. Overtime and with a lot of patience it should get more comfortable with you. It will grow to be about 9 inches in length when fully grown but will still find ways to hide from you.
Aquarium Requirements
Elephant Nose does best in aquariums that are 50 gallons or larger. Because of their length as adults, I would personally keep them in nothing smaller than a 75 gallon aquarium. They do great in planted aquariums filled with rocks and wood where they can hide to get away from the commotion of the aquarium. Many hobbyists will purchase a clear plastic tube to mimic a cave. This gives the Elephant Nose cover but still allows you to view it. This species of fish also does best with fine gravel over large stones or sand.
Like with many other fish, I would recommend providing a cover or lid for the aquarium because this fish can potentially jump out of the aquarium. That not the most common escape artist but there’s always a possibility.
Although it has a fairly decent range of water parameters that it can be kept in, the Elephant Nose should be kept in the following ranges:
Water Temperatures between 73° and 80° Fahrenheit
pH Levels between 6.5 and 7.0
KH levels between 0 and 10
At the end of the day water stability is probably one of the most important aspects of an aquarium. Be very mindful of how stable your water is.
Food & Diet
Elephant Nose are carnivorous fish. As a result, you should provide frozen food such as bloodworms and Mysis shrimp. Furthermore they will love eating cut up earthworms as well as pellet and flake food. Only give brine shrimp as an occasional treat because it is not very rich in nutrients. I would recommend providing a variety of foods to give Elephant Nose a broad spectrum of nutrients.
Tank Mates
The Elephant Nose does well with larger and peaceful fish. They will not do well with fish that are smaller such as Neon Tetras, Harlequin Rasboras, Ember Tetras and many others. They will do great with fish such as:
Denison Barbs
Angelfish
Blood Parrots
Rainbowfish
Black/White Skirt Tetras
All these fish are larger so should not become a snack for the Elephant Nose. They are also peaceful and should not harass the Elephant Nose. There are many other fish that will do well with this species, I only named a few to give some ideas.
The Elephant Nose is not recommended to be kept with other fish that give off electrical currents. Specifically, it is not recommended to keep multiple Elephant Nose fish or Ghost Knifes with this. The electrical currents that these fish release will cause stress to the others. The battling electrical currents will over time lower the fish’s health which will cause it to die.
Breeding
Breeding Elephant Nose is incredibly difficult if not impossible in an aquarium setting. The fish is highly aggressive to another fish of the same species. The dominant fish will pick on the weaker one until the weaker of the two dies. On top of that, it is practically impossible to distinguish whether an Elephant Nose is male or female.
Final Notes
The Elephant Nose is an incredibly unique fish that can be kept in the aquarium keeping hobby. It is an amazing talking point and anyone interested should really look into getting one. The interesting shape and colorations of this fish will keep you enjoying every moment of owning it.
To provide the best experiences, we use technologies like cookies to store and/or access device information. Consenting to these technologies will allow us to process data such as browsing behavior or unique IDs on this site. Not consenting or withdrawing consent, may adversely affect certain features and functions.
Functional Always active
The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network.
Preferences
The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user.
Statistics
The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for statistical purposes.The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for anonymous statistical purposes. Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you.
Marketing
The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes.
