BiomesInaBox

Author: BiomesInaBox

  • How To Remove Green Hair Algae in Saltwater Aquariums

    How To Remove Green Hair Algae in Saltwater Aquariums

    Green Hair Algae removal can be one of the most frustrating experiences in this hobby. Unfortunately, there is no cure-all solution to remove hair algae from your fish tank. The “cure-all” methods often band-aid the problem temporarily, but it will return if not removed at the source. Removing hair algae takes time. You’ll likely not see a change overnight, but with time, patience, and persistence, Green Hair Algae can mostly be eradicated from an aquarium. A combination of manually removing the hair algae and following the steps below will help remove it.

    This article will discuss some of the common reasons Green Hair Algae may wreak havoc on your saltwater fish tank, and once the problem is diagnosed, solutions will be provided to prevent it from coming back. This article should help to remove hair algae from a reef tank or fish-only saltwater aquarium.

    How Old Is Your Aquarium?

    Before continuing consider this. Many new(ish) saltwater aquariums go through a phase. Aquarists may experience this phase between 3 and 6 months, but it can happen sooner or not at all. During this phase, a large algal bloom may occur throughout the aquarium. The intensity of the algae growth varies but I have seen some very green aquariums, completely covered in hair algae or other species of algae.

    If you’re at this stage, the only thing to do is try to manually remove as much Green Hair Algae as possible. I do not recommend removing or cleaning rocks. Leave the rocks alone and use your hands to remove the hair algae. I have managed to use a turkey baster to help suck up algae off rockwork. As long as you do not feed the algae with many more nutrients, it should choke itself out and die out on its own.

    Nutrient Imbalanced Aquarium

    An imbalance of nutrients can be the cause of your algal issues. Green Hair Algae will use whatever free nutrients are in the water and can dominate the aquarium because of it. Algae is also very efficient at consuming nutrients. It’s important to keep an eye on the nitrate and phosphate levels in your fish tank. Focus more on eradicating phosphate levels, because Green Hair Algae uses that more for growth. You feed your aquarium, and your fish poop it’s expected to have trace amounts of both nitrates and phosphates but you do not want high levels of either.

    If you have an aquarium full of hair algae or a refugium with macroalgae, you may read 0 nitrates and 0 phosphates when you test your water. This could be because the algae consumes the nutrients before they become testable. I recommend testing your water with the API Reef Master Test Kit (Affiliate Link). It gives you test solutions for nitrates, phosphates, calcium, and carbonate hardness. If you cannot get your phosphate levels under control, consider looking into a Media Reactor, like the Aquatop Media Reactor (Affiliate Link). You can place different filter media such as PhosBan, PhosGuard, or GFO Phosphate Reducers to help get your phosphates to more manageable levels. Follow the instructions, and slowly lower your phosphate levels.

    How Much Are You Feeding?

    The more we feed, the more nutrients that are introduced into the water. It’s very important to not overfeed your aquarium. We are all guilty of doing so because it’s one of the most exciting aspects of keeping fish. Keep an eye on the portions you give your fish. Guarantee that what you give them is being eaten and not lost in the live rock or sucked up by the filtration system. The best solution to removing nutrients from your aquarium is through water changes. You can easily remove nitrates, phosphates, and food debris by changing the dirty aquarium water and introducing fresh saltwater.

    What Type of Water Are You Using?

    This can be very important for the types of nutrients that are introduced into your aquarium. If you’re using tap water for your water changes, you may be adding a cocktail of nutrients that help promote algae growth. You don’t really know how clean your tap water is. Providing clean water during water changes and water top-offs guarantees you are not introducing nitrates, phosphates, copper, or other contaminants that may be in tap water.

    If possible, I recommend doing water changes and topping off your aquarium with RO water. Small RO units are fairly cheap. For example, the AQUATICLIFE RO Buddie can be purchased from Amazon. You’ll only need a sink that can accept a screw-on adapter and to change the unit’s filters every few months. If you do not have access to RO water or don’t want to buy an RO unit, many stores and fish stores sell RO or distilled water.

    Are You Changing The Water Too Much?

    Again, changing water, especially with tap water can add too many new nutrients into your fish tank that algae will soak up. If you test your nitrates and phosphates, and the results aren’t at dangerous levels, consider taking a step back and cutting down on water changes for a couple of weeks to see if your tap water is introducing unwanted contaminants. You can also test your tap water for nitrates and phosphates with the API test kit suggested above the same way you test aquarium water.

    Does Your Filter Need Cleaning?

    The filter is the place where debris, excess food, and other gunk go to rest. Think back to the last time your sponges and media have been replaced. Physically look at the sponges to see if there is a build-up of brown sludge on them. If so, it might be time to give your filter a cleaning. I’ll often rinse off dirty sponges in old aquarium water instead of replacing them outright. I do this to remove the sludge and gunk from the sponge. However, I can put the sponge back into the aquarium to not lose the beneficial bacteria growing on it. Unfortunately, some sponges are too far gone and need replacing.

    Light Schedule and Intensity

    The next thing I recommend looking at is your lighting schedule. The duration and intensity of your light schedule will affect photosynthetic opportunities for corals and algae. We want to provide plenty of light for our coral, but not too much light that encourages algae to take over. It might be a good idea to cut down on your photoperiod. There is no way to exactly determine what light schedule you should be on. This will be determined by the type of light you have, the strength of the light system, and the type of coral you are growing.

    Light From Window

    Sometimes an aquarium gets set up a little too close to a window. Aquariums close to a window may be getting too much ambient light causing algae to grow. The best solution for this is to hang up a blackout curtain over the window so light doesn’t reach the fish tank. This is the most practical solution for this unless you opt-in to moving the aquarium to a space with little to no ambient lighting.

    Not Enough Clean-Up Crew

    Check to see how much clean-up crew you have hanging around in the aquarium. If your water parameters are in a safe range, consider leveling up your clean-up crew. Their population will drop over time in a saltwater fish tank, so they’ll likely need to be replenished at some point. Maybe that time is now for your aquarium.

    A healthy clean-up crew can mean the difference between a thriving aquarium, and one that may be consumed with algal issues. A clean-up crew can consist of a variety of critters. Utilizing each is important because everything has a niche that needs filling. There are many options to choose from, you can check out my article Saltwater Aquarium Clean-up Crew for some ideas.

    Final Notes

    This guide is meant to discuss how to remove green hair algae from your aquarium. I have provided the most common reasons you’ll see hair algae blooming in your fish tank, and a handful of solutions to help eradicate it. I try to find the cheapest and most natural route to eradicate nuisance algae. These solutions will also help you continue good husbandry of your saltwater aquarium. I do not like using chemicals in fish tanks unless I really have to. If I can’t tackle the problem at the source, it’s likely the algae will come back over time. Hopefully, this guide helps you recover from a green-haired algae takeover. Remember to be patient and expect to fight this until you find the root of the problem.

  • How To Setup Planted Aquarium for Neon Tetra

    How To Setup Planted Aquarium for Neon Tetra

    Neon Tetras are some of the most iconic fish in this hobby. Anyone who has walked into a pet store can probably identify that familiar red and blue coloration. Many people choose Neon Tetras because they are commonly found in pet stores, are vibrant in color, and are incredibly cheap. It makes sense why they are so popular. This guide will discuss what you need to set up a planted aquarium for Neon Tetras.

    Aquarium For Neon Tetras

    To set up an enclosure for Neon Tetras, you’ll first want to start with acquiring a fish tank. A small school of Neon Tetras will do great in a 10-gallon fish tank. You’re always welcome to go for a larger aquarium, but I do not recommend going smaller. If you have an aquarium stored away that you’re thinking of using but don’t remember how many gallons of water it holds, check out some of the Standard Aquarium Sizes to figure out what size it is. If you’re planning on only keeping Neon Tetras, and perhaps a few snails or shrimp, 10 Neons should do great in a 10-gallon aquarium.

    Filtration For Aquarium

    The next thing you’ll want to consider when setting up a planted aquarium for Neon Tetras is what type of filtration to use. The most common ones I suggest are sponge filters or power filters, especially for smaller fish tanks. In most cases, Neon Tetra’s bioloads are minimal so a combination of plants, filtration, and water changes should be plenty to keep your aquarium clean.

    Sponge filters will take up some real estate in the fish tank, but are fairly cheap to set up, use a very small amount of electricity, and provide a lot of surface area for beneficial bacteria. All you’ll need to set up a sponge filter, is an air pump, airline tubing, and the sponge filter. Most air pumps come included with airline tubing. If you’re new to the hobby, check out Sponge Filter Use Cleaning and Extra Tips to learn a few things about this type of filtration.

    Sponge Filter Zoomed

    If you want a more in-depth filtration experience consider getting a power filter. There are many types of power filters available to choose from. Most will get the job done but my favorites are the Fluval – Aquaclear Power Filters or the Seachem – Tidal Power Aquarium Filters. I love these filters mostly because of their customizable and large media baskets. You can swap filter media to whatever you desire and they’ll continue to work well. Neon Tetras don’t have an incredibly large bio-load, but it never hurts to have a good filter running on the fish tank. If you’re shopping around for power filters and are not sold on these, take a look at 7 Best Hang-On Back Power Filters For Freshwater Aquariums to see many other options.

    Lights For Plants

    You’ll need to purchase lights for your aquarium that will complement the plants you’re planning on growing. Some plants do better under more intense light while others do great under medium to low light conditions. If you’re new, I’d start with plants that are very tolerant of lower light conditions and that are not incredibly demanding. I have gotten great results growing plants such as vals, crypts, and anubias with the NICREW Full Spectrum Planted LED Light. It’s a great budget light and a solid introduction to LED aquarium lighting.

    Aquarium Heater

    Unless you live in an area where the ambient temperature is always between 72° and 78°F, you’ll likely need an aquarium heater. You’ll have to pick out the one that will work best for your aquarium’s dimensions. There are a lot of brands that make fantastic heaters. If you’re in the market for a heater, take a look at 6 Best Aquarium Heaters for Your Fish Tank. There are many different options to choose from, I have always had good results from the Fluval M-Series Heaters but I have also used many other brands like the Aqueon Pro Series Heaters that have worked great. Remember, that heaters are the pieces of equipment that are likely to fault out in your fish tank.

    You can take precautions by purchasing an Inkbird Temperature Controller to help keep the heater from causing irreversible damage to your fish if it were to malfunction. An internal aquarium thermostat will also give you a good idea of your water temperature.

    Decorations and Plants

    There are plenty of different decorations to choose from when setting up an aquarium. You can add rocks, live plants, driftwood, artificial decor, and more. What type of decorations you choose is entirely up to you. The most important thing is that what you put in the aquarium is fish-safe. I love aquariums that look and feel like a slice of nature, so my fish tanks are usually dominated by plants, wood, and rockwork.

    Substrate

    A substrate is essentially the “ground” of your aquarium. I have seen many different brands, types, colors, and textures of substrates in my years of fishkeeping. However, if you’re considering setting up a planted tank, I assume you’re looking for a natural look to your aquarium. For planted fish tanks, my go-to substrate is CaribSea Eco-Complete. This substrate is nice because its dark color makes the decorations and fish swimming above pop in color. The opposite occurs when you use a white-colored substrate.

    Another great substrate used for planted aquariums is the Fluval Stratum for Freshwater Fish Tanks. I don’t use this one too often, but many fishkeepers and hobbyists love the quality and look it provides. It also comes with the perks of being very porous to help plants root faster and it helps maintain neutral to acidic water parameters. Before choosing a substrate, consider doing some research on the effects it may have on your plants.

    Rocks, Driftwood, etc.

    Adding rocks and driftwood to your fish tank will surely add a natural-looking touch. Some species of plants and mosses can be grown off of driftwood, and plants growing around stones can make your fish tank look incredible. I recommend giving your driftwood and rocks a good rinse before adding them to an aquarium. However, do not use any household chemicals because those can be dangerous for fish and invertebrates.

    Many aquarists boil their driftwood to help remove the tannins they will likely release into your fish tank. Tannins aren’t dangerous, they are actually beneficial for your fish. However, tannins will cause your fish tank water to turn tea color or sometimes even darker than that.

    Certain rocks can alter the water parameters in your fish tank. For example, limestone or Texas Holey Rock will increase your fish tank’s water hardness and pH level. This is fantastic for high pH, hard water-loving fish, but that’s not the case for Neon Tetras. Lava rock and slate are pretty safe options, but there are plenty of rocks out there that won’t alter your water parameters. Unlike driftwood, do not boil or bake your rocks.

    Plants

    This article is specific to setting up a planted tank for Neon Tetras, so I’ll list a handful of plants that are very easy to care for to get someone started.

    • Anubias are a fantastic option for a planted aquarium. They are very tolerant of low light conditions and have beautiful broad leaves. You can wedge them in between driftwood and grow them out of the substrate. If you plant them in substrate, ensure part of its rhizome is exposed. Otherwise, the rhizome will likely rot and eventually kill off the plant.
    • Java Fern is another great option for a planted aquarium, especially when you’re first starting out. It has a lance-shaped leaf and is usually a nice vibrant green color. This plant is also fairly tolerant of lower light conditions. It’s a great choice for a background plant
    • There are many different species of crypts. You’ll see some that’ll grow much taller than others, and you’ll also see a few color variations. This plant usually grows very well in an aquarium and may even dominate parts of a fish tank if you let them grow out. After breaking down an aquarium, i had a singular root run the full length of my fish tank. The aquarium was about 30″ long.
    • You can’t go wrong with attaching mosses to driftwood. The most common you’ll likely see are java moss or Christmas moss. Moss is a great way to grow something green in an aquarium without losing much open swimming space.
    • There are quite a few different species of Val. The most common i see are Jungle Vals, Italian Vals, and Corkscrew Vals. From experience, they grow very easily and they’ll grow to the top of your fish tank. Once they’re acclimated, they will quickly begin growing vertically and horizontally, taking over much of the background of your aquarium.
    • Pearlweed are very easy-to-grow plants that can be added to a planted fish tank. They’re great for backgrounds and will often propagate quickly. A few sometimes can turn into a jungle.

    Adding Neon Tetras into the Aquarium

    Before adding Neon Tetras to your aquarium, guarantee that your fish tank is established and has gone through the Nitrogen Cycle. The Aquarium Co-Op does a great job explaining what the Nitrogen Cycle is. As a quick summary, your aquarium has to go through a nitrogen cycle when it’s first set up. There are different ways to do it, but I suggest a fishless cycle if possible. Even better, if you know someone with an established fish tank, or own one yourself, you can take filter media, substrate, a rock, or any other hard surface (where bacteria can colonize) and put it into the new fish tank. This will seed the new aquarium with beneficial bacteria. Although it will not fully cycle the new fish tank, it should at least speed up the Nitrogen Cycle process.

    The result of your nitrogen cycle will result in your aquarium reading 0 ammonia, and 0 nitrites, and you’ll likely have a hint of nitrates. You can test for these with the API Freshwater Master Test Kit.

    Final Notes

    Neon Tetras are fantastic fish to add to a freshwater aquarium. They look even better in a freshwater planted tank. Their magnificent blue and red color pops in an aquarium full of plants. Due to inbreeding, they’re a little more sensitive than other fish but are still a very sought-after species.

  • 6 Large Peaceful Freshwater Fish

    6 Large Peaceful Freshwater Fish

    There are countless fish species available in this hobby. Many new hobbyists start with small aquariums and grow into larger ones as time progresses. It seems like nano tanks have an unlimited amount of peaceful fish that can occupy them. The opposite seems true for larger fish and big aquariums. Luckily, there are large peaceful freshwater fish out there. This article will discuss a handful of large fish, that have a good chance of being peaceful.

    Before we start, I want to add a disclaimer. Fish are opportunists and there is a saying “If it fits into its mouth, it’s likely to become food.” This saying holds for both peaceful and aggressive fish. The fish on this list may be peaceful but that won’t stop them from eating anything that fits into their mouth. Keep that in mind when you are planning on stocking your fish tank.

    1. Silver Dollars

    Silver Dollars are freshwater fish that get big, but are incredibly peaceful. They are an excellent choice for a large community tank. This fish species does best in a school of at least 6 individuals but more is always recommended. Silver Dollars become bolder and less fearful when in a larger school. They enjoy having a long aquarium when fully grown due to their active personalities. Ideally, they will do best in an aquarium that is at least 125 gallons or larger when fully grown.

    The unique trait of Silver Dollars is that they are primarily herbivorous fish. I do not recommend putting them into a planted aquarium because the plants will quickly become a salad buffet. Silver Dollars will graze the plants down to the roots within a few hours to a few days, depending on plant density. Various rock, driftwood, and plastic plants will be ideal decor for this fish.

    2. Rainbowfish

    There are many different species of rainbowfish and all species are generally peaceful and keep to themselves. You may see fighting for dominance within a school, but they should not bother other species of fish. I recommend forming a large school of the same species of rainbowish over mixing many different species. This is to mimic the large schools they have in the wild. Some of my favorite rainbowfish are the Dwarf Neon Rainbowfish, Boesemani Rainbowfish, and Irian Red Rainbowfish.

    One quirk of most rainbowfish species is that they are active and aggressive eaters. They can become bullies when food is present and scare away slower-moving fish by accident. This isn’t true aggression, they are just passionate about food. Once the food is gone, they will likely go back to their peaceful behaviors.

    3. Elephant Nose

    The Elephantnose Fish have a unique appearance as well as an interesting quirk to them. They have a trunk-like appendage that sticks out from their face. The trunk emits an electrical pulse that helps them navigate through the fish tank and also assists them with hunting for food. This species of fish is nocturnal but may come out of hiding at times when the lights are on. Elephantnose requires very pristine water conditions to thrive. They are very sensitive to water quality. Soft gravel and sand are needed for the Elephantnose so it does not damage its trunk while exploring.

    Elephantnose Fish will be aggressive towards others of the same species. I do not recommend keeping more than one in the same aquarium. The more dominant of the two will bully and stress the less dominant one.

    4. Severums

    I am stretching the term “peaceful” for this next fish. Severums can be peaceful, for cichlid standards. There are many species of Severum and each fish has a unique temperament. Your Severem can be a model fish, but another hobbyist may have purchased a Severum that completely dominates an aquarium.

    To help keep the aggression down for Severums, I recommend keeping them in at least a 125-gallon aquarium as they mature. On top of that, they do best with rocks, driftwood, and plants that break their line of sight. The more decorations you can provide, the better. If you have a male and female, you’ll see territorial aggression when they are trying to spawn. You can avoid this by keeping a lone Severum.

    5. Goldfish

    Goldfish that are kept with similar-sized Goldfish or Koi can be incredibly peaceful. Most Goldfish lumber around and wait for food, or churn through gravel looking for food. Feeding time may be the only time you’ll spot aggression from these fish.

    There are a few drawbacks to Goldfish. They’re prolific poopers, messy eaters, get very large, and require large aquariums and filtration systems to thrive. Large filters are needed mostly because of their messiness. Common Goldfish do best in outdoor ponds over aquariums because of their husbandry needs. They’re great fish, with vibrant colors, but do best with other Goldfish and Koi in incredibly large fish tanks or ponds.

    6. Discus

    I was on the fence about adding Discus to this list. Similar to Severums, they can be peaceful compared to many other cichlids. However, Discus are not compatible with many fish species. They do best with high temperature, low pH, and pristine water conditions. The high temperature alone knocks off most fish from being compatible with Discus.

    Discus enjoy being in schools of at least 4 individuals, but 6 or more are highly recommended. Being cichlids, you may see fighting within the school over dominance. 6 should do fine in a 75-gallon aquarium, but I recommend a larger aquarium. Due to the high-temperature needs, Discus’s metabolism is very high. This means a lot of feedings and water changes will be needed. More water volume will help prevent large swings in water parameters.

    Final Notes

    There are probably many more large and peaceful freshwater fish available, but these few are the first that come to mind. Everyone has different experiences with fish and not everyone will agree with the ones listed. From experience, discussing with hobbyists, and researching the subject, the fish listed above seem to fit the category of peaceful fish. If you have experience with any of these fish, or think others would do well on this list, please let me know!

  • Different Ways To Make a Hanging Aquarium Light Stand

    Different Ways To Make a Hanging Aquarium Light Stand

    There are many different ways to hang aquarium lights. You can hang them from ceilings, or shelves, or build something that will save you from having to make holes in walls and ceilings. Ideally, it’s best to build or purchase something that is both functional and aesthetically pleasing. You’ll have to decide how to hang your aquarium lights and what materials to use. This article will hopefully provide you with different options to choose from.

    Hanging Lights From a Ceiling

    If you’re handy with house renovations, have done some DIY work, or have used a drill/screwdriver in the past, you may be good to hang your lights from the ceiling. Some very easy-to-use Adjustable Light Suspension Kits on Amazon can help you achieve this. A measuring tape, hammer, and drill/screwdriver will likely be the tools you’ll need to do this.

    I also recommend covering your aquarium temporarily with a blanket, tarp, or other cover so that debris from drywall doesn’t fall into your aquarium. This will also help provide some cushion if you drop your tools that can crack your glass. I do not like hanging lights from my ceilings because if I decide to move the fish tank, I’ll likely have to patch holes and repaint. There are plenty of other ways to hang lights without messing with your drywall.

    Build Your Own Hanging Light Stand

    Building a light stand is something that can be very easy to do, and can save you a lot of money. I have made one using conduit, speed thread straps, and spray paint. You’ll have to bend the conduit to your desired length, spray paint it, and then screw it onto your aquarium stand. It’s very straightforward and will cost around 20 dollars to make. The conduit holds the KingLED Grow Light I put on top of it with ease. Here is a video showcasing the process.

    You can use a lot of different materials if you’re not interested in using conduit. Another one that might work well is PVC piping. You are limited to your imagination when building your hanging light stand. I decided to go this route when building my aquarium because, with this, I do not have to drill holes into the wall or ceiling.

    Build Into Aquarium Canopy

    You’ll occasionally see aquariums built with massive canopies above them. It is reasonable to assume that you can use the space inside the canopy to hide lights. If your aquarium has a canopy, you might have braces running through it that can be used for hanging lights. It could be as easy as screwing hooks into the bracing of the canopy, and then hanging your lights from the hooks.

    If your canopy does not have bracing, you’ll have to add them yourself or find a different method to hang your lights. Cutting and screwing wood into the canopy will probably be the easiest route. Besides wood, you can also use aluminum for bracing instead. Once you have that made, adding a hook should be very easy.

    Hang Lights From Shelving Above Your Aquarium

    If you have shelving built above your fish tank or are looking to use the space above your aquarium, you might be able to hang lights under the shelf or build a shelf and then hang lights underneath. Most light fixtures are fairly light, so a lot of shelves should handle the additional weight. Before trying this, look up your shelving max weight capacity to guarantee they can handle the weight. It would be terrible for the shelving unit to collapse onto your aquarium.

    Shelving on top of an aquarium could be great if you’re tight on space and need more room for fish food, filter media, and other supplies. I have never tried this method of hanging lights, but have seen it work well. It looks nice with floating shelves (Amazon Affiliate Link).

    How High To Hang Light Over Aquarium?

    It all depends on the light, the intensity, and what you are keeping in the aquarium. I usually try to keep hanging lights about a foot above the aquarium as a safe bet. Depending on the size of the light compared to the aquarium, a foot of clearance will pretty much guarantee you have access to the fish tank without a light getting in your way. The light spread will increase the higher you go, but you will also lose overall strength the further your light is from the aquarium.

    Final Notes

    There are countless ways to hang lights to illuminate an aquarium. You can make the build as simple or as complex as you want. The most important thing is that the lights are securely placed and they do not risk falling into the aquarium. If you’re not sold on hanging lights you can consider getting lights that sit on top of the aquarium instead.

    How to Make an Aquarium Light Stand for Hanging Lights

    Finding a way to create an aquarium light stand for hanging lights can be challenging. Most aquarium lights have legs that extend to the aquarium’s frame, making setup quite easy. However, some lights need to be hung above the fish tank. This article will discuss one…

  • Black Neon Dottyback – Complete Care Guide

    The Black Neon Dottyback (Pseudochromis aldabraensis x Psuedochromis springeri) is a hybrid fish bred from the Springeri Dottyback and Neon Dottyback. This hybrid fish is semi-aggressive and grows to 3″ in size as an adult. Don’t let their small size fool you, because this fish can hold its own in an aquarium. Black Neon Dottybacks have a beautiful blend of colors from both parents. The black body of the Springeri Dottyback mixes with the yellow body of the Neon Dottyback, to form a gorgeous orange/brown on the Black Neon Dottyback. They also have vibrant blue streaks that run horizontally throughout their face and fins. This guide will discuss aquarium requirements, food & dietary needs, Black Neon Dottyback compatibility with other fish, and more.

    Aquarium Requirements

    Black Neon Dottybacks will do best in 30-gallon or larger aquariums. Due to their semi-aggressive personalities, they may claim an aquarium area as theirs and will do their best to protect their home. That’s also why it’s important to provide plenty of live rock. The live rock allows this fish to explore and claim its own space. Providing a lot of live rock will also give other fish their own space, hopefully preventing aggression between fish.

    Like many other fish, the Black Neon Dottyback can jump out of the aquarium. I recommend providing a well-fitted lid on your aquarium to help prevent that from happening. They mostly hang out around rocks, but can easily dart up when spooked and jump out of your fish tank.

    Water Parameters

    Keeping water parameters in appropriate ranges for your fish’s needs is important for the overall health of the fish. Luckily, most fish have a fair range of parameters they will do well under. The following are the water parameters your Black Neon Dottyback does best with.

    • Water Temperature: 72°-78° F
    • dKH: 8 – 12
    • pH: 8.1 – 8.4
    • Salinity: 1.020 – 1.025 sg

    Consider getting a High Range pH and KH test kit to test for pH & dKH. Keeping your temperature between 72° and 78° can be accomplished with a heater. Take a look at my guide which showcases some great aquarium heaters. Lastly, I would pick up a Refractometer from Amazon to keep an eye on your salinity levels. If calibrated correctly, refractometers are much more accurate compared to a hydrometer which loses accuracy due to salt buildup on the dial. Check out Different Salinity Reading Tools For Saltwater Fish Tanks to get an idea of other salinity testing devices available.

    Is the Black Neon Dottyback Reef Safe?

    Black Neon Dottybacks are reef-safe. They will not bother corals and most invertebrates. You may see them pick on rocks or grab something out of the water. They’re likely picking off microorganisms such as copepods of the rock. There is a lot of back-and-forth on whether this fish is safe with shrimp, and I recommend being cautious when keeping them together. Small shrimp, like Sexy Shrimp, will likely become an expensive snack. Larger shrimp often have more luck, but can become targets for the fish. If you’re inclined to try to keep these two together, I recommend providing a lot of rock with plenty of ledges and hiding spaces for the shrimp.

    Food & Diet

    This fish, like most other dottybacks, is carnivorous by nature. Their diet should primarily be rich in protein. I recommend feeding them foods such as Mysis Shrimp, Brine Shrimp, Krill, and other meaty foods. I enjoy using Hikari frozen fish food to provide protein for this species of fish. Black Neon Dottybacks should also readily accept pellet food as supplemental food.

    If your fish is hiding or being stubborn about eating, consider feeding live baby brine shrimp so it doesn’t starve. It may prefer hunting for its meal. Another tip is to turn off your powerheads and drop frozen food near the Black Neon Dottyback’s den. This will give it a chance to slowly creep out of its hiding space and grab food. Lastly, try mixing your food with garlic or fish-safe garlic extract, like Brightwell Aquatics Garlic Power. Many fish cannot resist the aroma of the extract, and it is generally good for them, in moderation.

    Tank Mates

    Dottybacks are territorial and aggressive by default. If you want to keep one, I recommend adding them last into the aquarium, to give other fish a chance to settle in and establish their territories. If you’re trying to keep a very peaceful fish tank, maybe look to other fish that won’t bother others. Besides Orchid Dottybacks most dottybacks are considered aggressive and may pick on other fish.

    Fish that have the most success with dottybacks are Cardinals, Chromis, Clownfish, sand-sifting gobies, foxfaces, tangs, dwarf angels, and damsels. Most of these fish either occupy a different part of the aquariums, don’t look like a territorial threat to the dottyback, or are tough enough to hold their own against an aggressive species of fish. I would recommend not keeping them with large-mouth fish and predatory fish. Anything that can fit into a fish’s mouth has a strong chance of becoming food.

    Black Neon Dottyback and Peppermint Shrimp

    I covered most of this earlier, but I would be cautious about keeping a Black Neon Dottyback and Peppermint Shrimp. They can do perfectly fine together, but I have heard cases where the dottyback destroys the population of shrimp in the aquarium. The personality of the individual fish is likely to play a large role whether it’ll mess with shrimp or not.

    Breeding

    Due to their aggression, I do not recommend mixing dottybacks, unless you own an incredibly large fish tank. These fish will likely battle it out relentlessly which will make successful breeding impossible.

    Final Notes

    The Black Neon Dottyback is a very cool-looking hybrid fish that may be an excellent choice for your saltwater fish tank. You’re always taking a gamble on keeping them with their territorial personalities, but the colors they bring to an aquarium make them a very tempting choice. If you’re shopping around for dottybacks, check out the many other species out there by following this link.

  • How To Heat an Aquarium Without a Heater

    How To Heat an Aquarium Without a Heater

    Heating an aquarium, especially during cold winter months with a power outage can be incredibly challenging. Winters can be brutal, and cold can creep into older and poorly insulated homes very quickly. Although many fish have a fair amount of temperature tolerances, it’s important to have a plan ready in case the temperatures drop below that threshold.

    Besides power outages, having dozens of aquariums running individual heaters can be expensive. You use up a lot of outlets, spend money on replacements, and risk purchasing a faulty heater which can ruin a fish tank. Warming an aquarium in different ways might be a better option. This guide will discuss many options to warm your aquarium during power outages and a recommended method to warm multiple aquariums to help lower those high electricity bills.

    Heating the Room

    A room with many fish tanks is called a fish room, and heating a fish room is often cheaper than heating individual fish tanks. If you have a room completely devoted to your fish tank hobby, it might be time to toss the aquarium heaters and switch to something that will heat the whole room instead. Heating the room instead of individually heating aquariums has a few perks:

    • Cost saving
    • Heaters won’t break in your aquarium
    • No more heater replacement
    • Saves outlet space

    I have dug around to see the best way to heat a fish room. Many aquarists suggest using an Oil Filled Radiator Heater, such as the PELONIS Oil Filled Radiator Heater. As a bonus, I would recommend also using a fan, like the Genesis 20″ Box Fan, on a low setting to help disperse the heat around the room. You’ll want to choose the heater and fan that is appropriate for your room’s size.

    The reason many fishkeepers enjoy using this type of heater is that it uses less electricity compared to a space heater, and also doesn’t get as hot, which lowers the chance of it causing a fire. You’ll have to look to see whether your heaters use more electricity compared to the Oil Filled Radiator Heater before deciding whether this switch makes sense.

    Add a Well-Fitted Lid

    Equipment such as hang on back filters, circulation pumps, and lights create heat as a byproduct while working that will warm your fish tank. A lot of heat from water is lost at the surface. Something as simple as adding an aquarium glass top can help warm a fish tank. When you add a lid to your aquarium, you are essentially creating a barrier between warm fish tank water and cool ambient air. It takes longer to alter temperature through glass than a large opening such as the top of a fish tank.

    This method isn’t ideal, because you may not reach a desired aquarium temperature, and you might not have enough equipment running to warm the fish tank. Also, keeping a stable temperature will be impossible because you’re ideally at the whim of the ambient temperature and whatever equipment you have running. There are a lot of glass top options on Amazon, you’ll just have to match the available options with the dimensions of your fish tank.

    How To Heat Aquarium During Power Outage

    If you’re stuck in a power outage and do not have a way to warm your aquarium, there are a few things you can do to help your fish tank when your heater is out of commission. These are temporary solutions that can provide relief for your slowly cooling aquarium. You can try one method or both to help keep your aquarium warm.

    Wrapping a Blanket Around Your Aquarium

    If your power is out, and the temperature in your home is slowly dropping, you may be worried that your fish tank temperature will also drop to dangerous levels. A temporary but quick solution is to wrap your aquarium with a blanket. The blanket will help insulate your fish tank for some time while you wait for the power to return. Besides a blanket, you can use styrofoam or something like FOAMULAR insulation to temporarily protect your aquarium from the cold. Styrofoam and FOAMULAR are great at keeping heat in and cold out.

    Heating Aquarium With Water Bottles

    You can likely boil some water if you have access to a gas stove during power outages. In a pinch, you can boil some water, place the hot water into a plastic bottle, or a bottle with a secure lid, and place that into the aquarium. The water will slowly release the heat into the aquarium. You can repeat this process until the power comes back on. If you have a small fish tank, keep an eye on your aquarium’s thermometer so the temperature doesn’t get too warm. I recommend a battery-operated air pump, like the AquaMiracle Battery Powered Aquarium Air Pump, to help move the water around as well as provide much-needed oxygen to your fish for elongated power outages.

    Keep Cool Water Fish

    If you’re not attempting to warm your aquarium but instead are trying to avoid using a heater but still want to keep fish in an aquarium, consider purchasing cool water fish. Many different species of fish will do great in colder water. Goldfish and White Cloud Mountain Minnows are just two of many different species that are great options. Regardless of what you decide to keep, it’s important to research their preferred habitat type, tank mate compatibility, aquarium sizing needs, and other husbandry requirements before purchasing them.

    Final Notes

    There are many different options to warm your fish tank without a heater. Unfortunately, most of these options are only temporary solutions for very short periods. If you want to rid yourself of your heater altogether, you’ll have to consider cool water fish or other cold water-loving animals to keep in your aquarium. Check out the 6 Best Aquarium Heaters for Freshwater & Saltwater Fish Tanks if your heater is on its last legs or has recently broken. If you have your own method for keeping your aquarium warm, let me know!

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  • Do I Need a Circulation Pump For My Aquarium?

    Do I Need a Circulation Pump For My Aquarium?

    Aquarium circulation pumps come in many different shapes and sizes from countless brands in this hobby. Sometimes called an aquarium powerhead or powerhead, these pieces of equipment are primarily used to move water around an aquarium. The question we are looking to answer is do you need a circulation pump for your aquarium?

    Just like any other topic in this hobby, it simply depends. I cannot provide a clear-cut answer because there are so many variables within this hobby. I’ll cover some of the reasons in finer detail, but I know I won’t be able to highlight every reason. A large part of this hobby is research, luckily there is a plethora of information available on every fish, coral, and ecosystem type we keep in a glass box. This article will discuss some of the reasons it makes sense to set up a circulation pump.

    Freshwater Aquarium vs. Saltwater Aquarium

    One thing to think about when deciding whether to set up a circulation pump for your aquarium is whether you are keeping freshwater or saltwater. Generally speaking, saltwater fish tanks will likely require more flow, especially if you are running a reef tank. Corals don’t move, so food, oxygen, nutrients, and everything else they need must come to them. However, the amount of flow completely depends on the species of coral you have.

    Freshwater aquariums will generally tolerate much less flowing water or no flow at all. Sometimes a filtration system is enough flow to keep your freshwater aquarium thriving. A planted aquarium might not have any air pumps, filters, or circulation pumps and be completely dependent on the oxygen produced by the plants. At the end of the day, it is completely dependent on what type of freshwater aquarium you are running. For example, a river-themed freshwater tank will benefit from having more flow, compared to a planted tank.

    Small vs. Large Aquarium

    Another thing to think about when figuring out whether a powerhead is necessary is thinking about aquarium sizes. Small aquariums often get by without requiring a circulation pump. Flow from an air pump or filtration system is usually enough to keep the aquarium going. An aquarium circulation pump may be overkill for nano tanks, unless you are attempting to create a specific habitat, like a riverbed.

    Large aquariums may need a powerhead. If you have areas in the aquarium where detritus builds up, you may want to get something facing that general direction to stir up the build-up of waste. In a saltwater aquarium, you will want to consider setting up a circulation pump to provide enough flow for your coral.

    What Do You Plan on Keeping?

    Fish come from all types of habitats, it is important to know what habitats they are from. It was mentioned earlier, but if your fish comes from a fast-flowing river system, you may want to build your aquarium around that. A circulation pump may be the exact thing you need to achieve that. However, if you are keeping fish from slow-moving waters, such as lakes and ponds, you may not need a powerhead because the flow from your filter might be enough to keep your fish happy.

    Also, fish with long fins, slow-moving fish, and very small fish may struggle with certain circulation pumps. I would not recommend keeping a long-fin betta fish in an aquarium with a powerhead. The betta moves slowly and has long flowy fins that can get pulled into the spinning fans of the powerhead.

    Plants & Circulation Pumps

    Keeping plants and circulation pumps may or may not be a good idea. In a small aquarium, I often do not recommend doing so because the current created by the powerhead can very easily tear the leaves of your aquatic plants. The filter should provide plenty of flow in a nano planted tank. In a larger aquarium, that has more open space, it’s possible to have an aquarium circulation pump running without damaging plants. Many different circulation pumps with varying sizes will do the job for you.

    If you’re looking for a very small amount of added flow, check out the Hydor Koralia Nano Circulation Pump. This pump only pushes 240 GPH and might be just the thing if you’re looking for some extra flow. If you need more flow, some massive powerheads can push over 1000 gallons of water per hour, like the Fluval Sea CP4 Circulation Pump. There are many options out there, so you’ll have to shop around to find what will work best for you.

    Coral and Circulation Pumps

    When you work with corals, you’ll learn that each species has its unique personality and needs. Many coral species love varying types of flow. For example, most stony corals will do better with high indirect flow, while other species, such as zoanthids often do better with a gentler flow. You may need a stronger powerhead for a large aquarium with SPS coral, compared to a large aquarium with zoanthids or soft corals. Too much direct flow can irritate certain coral species. This will cause them to close up and can lead to their demise if the flow intensity does not change. If you see your coral closed up, you might be providing it with too much or too little flow.

    Final Notes

    There are probably plenty more reasons why you should or shouldn’t use a circulation pump for your aquarium. The goal of this article is not to list every single reason, but to help new and old aquarists think outside of the box as to why something like extra flow might be needed. Powerheads are very handy tools when used correctly. They can help remove dead spots from aquariums, help bring nutrients to corals, and much more. I share some more information on flow rates on Different Aquarium Water Flow Rate Requirements.

  • How to Prepare Driftwood for a Fish Tank

    How to Prepare Driftwood for a Fish Tank

    Driftwood can be an excellent piece of decor to add to a fish tank. It is often the centerpiece of many aquariums. Whether you’re looking for branchy, large, or small pieces is entirely up to you but they are out there. You can find aquarium driftwood for sale at most pet stores, in the wild, or online. If you grab driftwood from the outdoors, consider the dangers pesticide or insecticide the wood has absorbed may have on your aquarium. Regardless of where you get your wood from, it’s a good idea to sterilize it and prepare it before use. This article will focus on how to prepare driftwood before adding it to your fish tank.

    1. Selecting Your Driftwood

    You’ll want to start by finding that perfect piece of driftwood for your fish tank. Fish tank driftwood comes in all shapes and sizes, so make sure the piece you’re using is appropriate for your aquarium. Consider how hard or easy it may be to clean the glass and gravel vacuum around it when making your decision.

    There are countless types of driftwood for sale. You can likely find them at your local fish store, or purchase them online on different marketplaces including Amazon. The ones I commonly use are Spiderwood, Mopani Wood, and Malaysian Driftwood.

    Physically inspect your piece of driftwood before picking it out. I recommend you avoid pieces that have a lot of sharp edges unless you’re handy with a chisel or tool that can smooth out the piece. Also, look for potential rotting or decaying that may be occurring. You’ll want to avoid pieces like that. If you find a piece of wood outdoors, try and identify what species of wood it is. Some species are not safe for aquarium use, especially many pieces of pine. You’ll have to do some research to figure out the species and whether it’s safe to use as driftwood for aquariums.

    2. Cleaning Your Driftwood

    The easiest place to start with cleaning your driftwood is to simply run it through some warm water. This will allow you to remove dirt, debris, and other gunk that might be sticking to your wood. I recommend using an old toothbrush or a clean brush of some sort to get in there to remove debris. We want to add as little foreign contaminants into our aquarium to lessen the chance of disease being introduced. Do not use cleaning supplies, like soap or bleach when cleaning your driftwood. These chemicals are not safe for fish tanks and can be dangerous to fish if not rinsed properly.

    Cleaning Driftwood with Vinegar

    Many people consider this step overkill, but it is an option for someone who is more cautious in what they add to their aquarium. You can clean your driftwood with vinegar. There’s no exact science as to how much vinegar to use, but dilute some in a bucket of water and drop your driftwood in. It is safer to use vinegar as a cleaning solution compared to soap or bleach. Although it may not be as powerful of a disinfectant as bleach or soap, it is the better choice. I would personally skip this part to avoid risking anything getting soaked in by the wood and then releasing it into your fish tank. We will also be boiling the wood which should remove any pests as well.

    3. Boiling Driftwood For Fish Tanks

    Many types of driftwood release tannins that will tint your aquarium water a tea/brown color. Tannins are not harmful in any way, but not everyone enjoys the look of brown water. Some tannins are very beneficial for soft water, low pH-loving fish, and when done right can look incredible. Many aquarists use driftwood, Indian Almond Leaves, black peat, and other organic matter to achieve a blackwater aquarium. Aquariumscience.org goes into great detail on what a blackwater aquarium is and has fantastic images of them in action.

    Boiling driftwood is a common tactic that can be used to help remove harmful organisms and assist in removing tannins. This is easily done with smaller pieces but can be a bit more challenging for large pieces of driftwood. Smaller pieces of driftwood can be put into a large pot, placed on a stove, and boiled for anywhere between 1-2 hours. You should do your best to keep your pieces fully submerged. Boiling driftwood will help remove tannins from the water, but it doesn’t always completely do its job, and some tannins may continue to leach out even after boiling.

    There is only so much you can do with larger pieces of driftwood. If you have a pot large enough to hold some of it, you can boil whatever is submerged, and then rotate it in the pot so a new portion of it will be submerged for boiling. If not, you can boil water in a kettle or some sort of container, and then pour the boiling water over the driftwood piece. You’ll want to do this a few times over all parts of the wood. This will likely not remove too many tannins but it will help sterilize driftwood to make it safer for your fish.

    4. Soaking Your Driftwood

    After boiling driftwood, it is still possible for it to float and release tannins. The next step of soaking your driftwood is optional, but it can further lower tannin release into your water and help your driftwood sink if you have a floater. All you have to do is place your driftwood in a bucket or container and fill it with fresh water. If it floats, you’ll want to let it sit there for days to weeks so it can absorb water which will cause it to sink, eventually. If you see tannins and want to remove them, you will want to change the water daily to remove the tinted water.

    To see whether the driftwood will have any effects on your water parameters, consider testing the water’s pH and hardness before putting it into the bucket, and then test the water in the bucket after a day or two while the wood is soaking. If you see a rise or drop in hardness or pH, the driftwood may be altering the water’s chemistry.

    Many aquarists do not want to wait for their driftwood to sink, so some will use super glue, like the Gorilla Glue Super Glue Gel XL to adhere their driftwood to a piece of rock. Slate rock is commonly used as the base. The slate rock will be buried by substrate so it’s ok if it doesn’t fit the aesthetic of your aquarium. You can use whatever rock will work best for you, and you can also use aquarium-safe silicone, like SELSIL Aquarium Silicone instead of super glue. However, keep in mind that silicone takes a little longer to dry.

    5. Final Cleaning

    I recommend doing a final scrub of the driftwood with a clean brush to remove debris. It’s pretty much ready to be placed in your aquarium at this point. Once it is placed in your fish tank, you will see whether the wood is affecting the clarity of your water. If you see your water begin turning brown from your wood, you can use activated carbon, like Boyd Enterprises Chemipure or Seachem Purigen as well as water changes to help remove it from the water.

    Does Driftwood Need to be Cleaned?

    Technically you don’t have to clean your driftwood, but the negative effects that come with not doing so are not worth it. There can be organic matter and debris in your wood, there can be harmful bacteria or pests that can negatively affect your fish and invertebrates. It’s better to stay on the side of caution and give driftwood for fish tanks a good cleaning, especially if you find a piece outside.

    Final Notes

    There are many different types of driftwood for aquariums. Some aquarists prefer purchasing them from fish stores or online, while others go out and find what they need in the wild. Be mindful of the ethics and legality of taking wood from preserves, natural spaces, and other public areas. Also, keep note of possible pesticide applications or chemical use if you plan on taking wood from outside. These things can be dangerous to fish and invertebrates.

  • Can I Leave My Aquarium Light on 24/7?

    Can I Leave My Aquarium Light on 24/7?

    The question of whether running aquarium lights all day and night comes up constantly, especially when talking to newer fish keepers. You walk into a fish store and see countless lights beaming at aquariums all day long. It makes you wonder if that’s okay to replicate at home. In my opinion, no I do not think you should be running your aquarium lights at all times of the day. The goal when setting up an aquarium is often to mimic the natural habitat of a fish, coral, plant, and/or invertebrate. Part of that means providing a day and night cycle for your inhabitants. Besides this, there are a few other reasons why I recommend not keeping your lights on all day, which will be discussed in this article.

    Rest Period for Fish

    Many species of fish are diurnal, which means they are active during the day and have a rest period at night. Most fish don’t sleep, but they do have periods of rest. This is a time when a fish will wedge itself in between rocks or plants, and remain incredibly still. Their metabolism slows, and it’s time for them to recharge their little fishy bodies. Some fish, like plecos, do this but in reverse, where they are nocturnal and active at night and hide and rest throughout the day. Regardless, providing a dark time for your fish tank will help provide a natural period of activity and rest.

    Having lights on all day can cause your fish to stress more because they are not provided a normal “rest period”. In the wild, they spend most of their day foraging and hunting for food throughout the day and will take refuge between rocks and plants at night. Most of us humans use the night to catch up on sleep and rest, and the same goes for many fish species.

    Spike in Algae Problems

    A constant light cycle increases the chance of your aquarium being plagued with large amounts of algae. Constantly providing a light source for photosynthesis will likely allow different species of algae to wreak havoc on your fish tank. One remedy to fight against algal blooms is actually to cut down on how much light you provide. If you’re fighting an algae problem, take a look at the many ways to Help Remove Algae in Aquariums. Light intensity and duration are both factors to consider when dealing with algae in your aquarium.

    Cost & Replacement

    If you have one aquarium running, your electric bill probably won’t see a difference if you run your lights all day long. However, once the addictive properties of this hobby overwhelm you, you’ll likely have 3, 4, or more fish tanks set up over a short period. Having your fish tank lights running all day will drive up the price of your electric bill. On top of that, the life of your lights will surely decrease and there is probably an increased chance of your lights burning out the longer you have them running.

    Exception To This

    There are a couple of exceptions that would allow you to keep your aquarium lights on 24/7. Both of these are related to plants. In the freshwater world, if you keep an aquarium with only plants, and no other animal, you could technically run your lights all day long. I still wouldn’t do it, because your plants likely don’t photosynthesize all day long, but it’s an option.

    Second, many saltwater enthusiasts have refugium or macroalgae reactors that have a light running all day and night. Some do it with purpose, and others do it because they’re lazy or don’t have a timer to automatically turn the lights off. However, the idea behind this is to allow macroalgae, whether it’s chaetomorpha or some other species to constantly have a light source in the refugium or reactor which will allow them to grow. Their growth uptakes nutrients like nitrates and phosphates which will aid in keeping algae from growing in the display tank. Keeping the light on 24/7 also helps stabilize the pH in the aquarium. However, from reading people’s experiences, a similar result can be achieved if you simply run your refugium on an inverse cycle to your display tank.

    Aquarium Lighting Recommendations

    I recommend providing anywhere between 8 and 12 hours of light over your fish tank. Deciding on the specific photoperiod will depend on your specific fish tank’s needs. If your aquarium gets natural light from a window, it will likely not require a 12-hour light period. If your fish tank is in a dark room, it may thrive under 12 hours of light. It is all experimentation to see what works best for your fish tank. Everything is dependent on your plant species, environment, light intensity, and many other factors. Regardless, I do not recommend anything over 12 hours in most cases.

    Many aquarium lights now have timers/controllers that work well with your light systems. For instance, the NICREW Saltwater Aquarium Light has a built-in timer that allows you to adjust your photoperiod to your needs. The freshwater counterpart to this is the NICREW SkyLED Aquarium Plant Light, it also has a built-in controller that allows you to adjust different aspects of your light. They can set the photoperiod, and have a ramp-up and ramp-down feature that will mimic sunrise and sunset.

    Some saltwater lights have apps that allow you to customize your light intensity, colors, and scheduling. The Ecotech Radion XR15 LED Light is the perfect example of this, but it comes with a high price tag. If that price point is too high, there are cheaper lights such as the NICREW Hyper Reef LED Light that don’t have an app backing them up but still pack a punch when combined with a NICREW HyperReef Light Controller.

    If you already have an aquarium light that has neither a controller nor a timer built into it, you can still run your lights on a timer. As someone who is lazy and does not want to turn the lights on and off every day, I invested in a very cheap plug-in timer, similar to the BN-LINK BND-60. This timer is very easy to set up and should take away the chore of turning your lights on and off.

    Final Notes

    Keeping a steady lighting schedule is great for your fish, and is what should be done to help mimic your aquarium inhabitant’s natural environment. Avoid running your lights 24/7 to help prevent potential algae blooms and for your fish’s health. Whether you do this by switching your lights on/off manually or using a timer/controller to make it hands-off, is completely up to you.

  • Can I Use a Hang On Back Filter For Saltwater Fish Tanks?

    Can I Use a Hang On Back Filter For Saltwater Fish Tanks?

    There is a lot that goes into setting up an aquarium. Saltwater fish tanks are especially demanding when you first get them started in regard to water chemistry and equipment costs. Once everything gets going, keeping a successful saltwater fish tank is not too much harder than freshwater. However, things can go wrong quickly and the effects can be costly. Filtration systems are an important aspect of successfully keeping a saltwater aquarium and this article will focus on answering whether you can use a hang on back filter for saltwater fish tanks.

    To put it simply, of course, you can use a hang on back filter for your saltwater fish tank. This goes both for fish-only and reef tanks. At the time of this writing, I am running a successful reef tank using a hang on back filter. However, the answer isn’t black and white. It’s more important to ask, when is the best time to use a hang on back filter compared to another type of filtration.

    When Should You Use a Hang On Back Filter?

    In my opinion, the best time to use this type of filtration is when working with small fish tanks. Hang on back filters are great, but at a certain point, they bottleneck to how much filtering they can provide. For example, I have an AquaClear 70 (affiliate link) running on a 10 gallon reef tank. I felt this size filter best suits the aquarium because it provides plenty of water flow for the fish tank and the filter itself is large, which has more space for filter media and/or bio-media to help keep my aquarium running successfully. Take a look at the 7 Best Hang On Back Power Filters to see different types of hang on back filters available.

    To maximize the effects of the filtration system, I use the media tray to keep a combination of sponges, filter floss, ceramic media, and chaetomorpha (with a light above). The sponges and filter floss will trap solid waste, the ceramic media provide surface area for beneficial bacteria to grow, and the chaeto with light soak up nitrates and phosphate out of the water. This hopefully will maximize the filtering capacity of my hang on back filter. Check out How To Setup a Refugium in a Saltwater Aquarium to learn about refugium systems.

    The space in the filter is limited, and that’s why it eventually bottlenecks and will not provide enough media and space to successfully filter your water if you’re setting up a larger aquarium. At a certain aquarium size you’ll need to add more hang on back filters or you’re better off using a sump system for a filter.

    What is the Best Hang On Back Filter?

    Which filter is best, is completely up to you. I enjoy using the AquaClear series filters because the media tray is large and it allows me to gut it and add whatever media suits my needs. There can be better types of power filters that work well for you. If you’re looking for a specific dimension for AquaClear filters, take a look at Fluval AquaClear HOB – Specs, Dimensions, Etc. to give yourself an idea of the options out there.

    Final Notes

    The filter that works best for you will be determined by the bio-load of your fish tank, the space you have available, and the size of the aquarium itself. What works incredibly well for me, may not be your style or it may not suit what you want out of a filter system. Regardless, it is perfectly safe to use a hang on back filter for a saltwater fish tank. It’s a fairly inexpensive tool, that may be all you need to run a successful nano fish tank.

  • Do Hang On Back Filters Provide Oxygen?

    Do Hang On Back Filters Provide Oxygen?

    Hang on back filters have been a part of this hobby for a long time. They have done great providing filtration and they continue to help clean our aquariums. Many curious aquarists want to know whether hang on back filters provide oxygen. The simple answer is yes they do provide oxygen to your aquarium. I’ll go into detail how it accomplishes this.

    Where Does the Oxygen Come From?

    Your filter system helps move water around your fish tank. Every hang on back aquarium filter I have seen creates a waterfall that outputs water back into your aquarium. This is the source of where oxygen is produced. The water formed by the waterfall comes in contact with the air. While it’s flowing into your aquarium, it “catches” small oxygen particles out of the air, which then go into your aquarium. Oxygen exchange does not stop there either. When the water from the filter comes in contact with your aquarium water, it creates a ripple. Just like the waterfall, these ripples grab oxygen out of the air and add them to your aquarium.

    To get oxygen into your fish tank, it is important to have something whether it’s a filter, air pump, or circulation pump breaking the water’s surface. You will get the most oxygen exchange there.

    What About Air Pumps?

    The bubbles formed by air pumps do not produce high amounts of oxygen for your fish tank. Most are simply to big to be absorbed by the water. Just like a hang on back filter, the air pump creates ripples in the water when the bubbles reach the surface. The ripples will catch oxygen out of the air and add it into the water. Generally, you do not need an air pump for your aquarium if you have other equipment breaking the water’s surface. However, most aquariums benefit from more oxygen, and an air pump is a great way to accomplish that.

    Final Notes

    A hang on back aquarium filter is a versatile piece of equipment that does many things. They provide filtration, water circulation, and assist in adding oxygen to the aquarium. I have enjoyed using HOB filters in many of my aquariums, and will continue to do so. If you are on the hunt for a HOB filter, check out 7 Best Hang On Back Filters for Freshwater Aquariums.

  • Do I Need a Protein Skimmer For a Saltwater Tank?

    Do I Need a Protein Skimmer For a Saltwater Tank?

    Saltwater aquariums come in many different sizes, and shapes, and they all have their quirks and needs. When questions such as, “Do I Need a Protein Skimmer” pop up, it’s hard to give a perfect answer. At the end of the day, it comes down to the aquarium’s specific needs and style of fishkeeping, but I will share my point of view on the topic. To start, this article will cover what is a protein skimmer for fish tanks and then I will discuss whether your saltwater aquarium might need one.

    What is a Protein Skimmer?

    Before we continue the discussion of whether a protein skimmer is a necessity or not, let’s talk about what it is. A protein skimmer is a piece of equipment used in saltwater aquariums that removes waste from your water. A pump creates air bubbles and the bubbles push up through a cylindrical housing. Proteins and other organic wastes are attached to these bubbles which dispense into a collection cup. The collection cup will fill with a slurry of water and waste, which will need to be cleaned out from time to time. In nature, the foam you see on the beach is similar to the end product of what a protein skimmer does to remove waste from the water.

    Protein skimmers are wonderful tools to use in a saltwater aquarium when they are dialed in just right. Besides removing waste from the water, they also help produce large amounts of oxygen, which is overall beneficial for a saltwater aquarium.

    Are Protein Skimmers Required?

    To keep it as simple as possible, I highly recommend setting up a protein skimmer if it logistically makes sense for your system. If you have a saltwater aquarium with a sump system, you’ll likely want a protein skimmer. The skimmer will help remove undesirable waste from your fish tank, which will decrease the likelihood of larger increases in nitrates and phosphates. The size of the protein skimmer should be rated equal to or larger than your aquarium’s water volume. If you own a 75-gallon reef tank with a 20-gallon sump, You’re safe to use something like the Reef Octopus Classic 110-INT, which is rated for aquariums up to 100 gallons.

    If you’re running a smaller saltwater fish tank, such as a nano tank, you can likely get away without using a protein skimmer. Frequent water changes will remove proteins and waste from the water column. Water changes in a nano reef tank won’t be as costly compared to large aquariums that require larger quantities of saltwater. Internal protein skimmers will also take up a lot of space in the fish tank can ruin the aesthetic. However, if you’re still interested in a protein skimmer for your nano fish tank, consider checking out the AquaticLife Mini Internal Protein Skimmer.

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    Learn the importance of a refugium and how to set one up for different types of aquariums

    Read More

    If you have an All-in-One nano aquarium, there are small protein skimmers that may fit in one of the compartments of your filtration system. The Coralife Biocube Protein Skimmer is a great example of a skimmer made for All-in-One fish tanks. The hardest part of this is finding a skimmer that will fit correctly into your filtration system. You may have to do some research and digging to find out which one will be best for you.

    Final Notes

    Protein skimmers are just another tool we use to create a pristine environment for our fish, coral, and invertebrates. When tuned correctly, a skimmer works incredibly well at removing wastes from the water column. Combining the filtration of a protein skimmer and setting up a refugium are two things you can do to make your saltwater aquarium filtering easier.

    Image by Skimz on wikiMedia

  • Do You Need a Heater For a Saltwater Fish Tank?

    Do You Need a Heater For a Saltwater Fish Tank?

    Saltwater aquariums are one of the many branches within the fishkeeping hobby. Most of the animals kept in these types of fish tanks do best in water temperatures ranging between 72°F and 80°F. You could be even more specific and say that they will do best in water temperatures between 76°F and 78°F. Although a lot of aquarium equipment gives off heat, reaching the appropriate temperature is often impossible without the assistance of something like an aquarium heater.

    Another thing that heaters provide is stability in water temperature, which is important to keeping a successful aquarium. In the oceans, temperatures can swing quickly for short periods. However, we are not working in the ocean, instead we are keeping an ecosystem in a glass box, and want to provide the best for the inhabitants. Small swings in temperature will probably occur in your fish tank, but we are trying to avoid that. Stable water temperatures will help lower the amount of stress brought on your fish, coral, and invertebrates.

    So yes, generally you will want to provide your saltwater aquarium with a heater. There are of course exceptions to the rule, which will be covered in this article but I recommend keeping a heater running on your saltwater fish tank. If you’re looking for ideas on which heater may work best for you, check out 6 Best Aquarium Heaters for Freshwater & Saltwater Fish Tanks.

    Disclaimer for Heaters

    Unfortunately, heaters are not picture-perfect pieces of equipment. They use large amounts of electricity in short bursts to warm your fish tank. Because of this, heaters are prone to being equipment that is likely to break, compared to other equipment. If you put your hand in your aquarium and feel a shock, it’s likely the heater is the culprit. If you feel a shock from your aquarium, it’s very important to remove the source of that electrical current. Take a look at How to Check For and Remove Electrical Current in a Fish Tank for information on the subject.

    There are two things I recommend purchasing to help protect yourself and your fish from a potentially faulty aquarium heater. First, I would recommend purchasing a Titanium Grounding Probe. This probe is made to “send” electrical current out of your aquarium, which will help protect you and your fish. You can purchase the Rio RV2735 Titanium Grounding Probe or if you have 2 aquariums, consider getting Encompass Titanium Grounding Probe (2-Pack).

    Your heater can malfunction in a way that it turns on and never turns back off. This can cause catastrophic damage to your aquarium by cooking whatever is inside. A great way to protect yourself from this is with the Inkbird Aquarium Heater Probe. This probe has a built-in over-temperature sensor fault alarm. This is an additional way to protect your aquarium from a potentially faulty heater.

    If you’re in the market for a new heater, check out the Innovative Marine Helio PTC Smart Heater. It’s a little pricey but could be well worth the investment. It comes with a smart controller, temperature sensors, an alarm when temperatures get a little too high, and a boatload of other features.

    Exceptions to Requiring a Heater

    There are only two reasons I could see someone not needing to run a heater on their saltwater aquarium. Both situations are not very common but I wanted to state them regardless. First, if you keep your home anywhere between 76°F and 80°F continuously, you probably do not need an aquarium heater. Many of us live in climates with swinging temperatures which prevents us from doing this. One could still be kept in the aquarium as a fail safe, incase the home temperature ever dropped to lower temperature, but that’s completely up to you.

    Also, if you enter the world of cold-water marine fish, you will not be using an aquarium heater. Instead, you’ll likely have to set up a chiller on your fish tank to maintain the proper temperature for those species of fish. These two scenarios are few and far between, but they do occur.

    Final Notes

    Saltwater aquariums can get very expensive. It’s best to create habits to lower the risk of your investment and to provide a great environment for the fish, coral, and invertebrates you choose to add to your aquarium. A heater is a fantastic way to raise your aquarium’s temperature and keep it at a stable level. Unfortunately, they are known to malfunction, but that’s why we have tools to lower the risk and danger when that does happen. If you have a heater set up that works great for you, please let me know! I love to learn from fish keeper’s personal experiences.

  • Helfrichi Firefish – Complete Care Guide

    The Helfrichi Firefish, sometimes called the Helfrichi Dartfish, is a species of fish that is incredibly peaceful, with gorgeous purple, lavender, and yellow colorations throughout its body. Although their dorsal fin does not grow as long as other Firefish species, they are still fantastic fish to keep in a saltwater fish tank. The cost of this fish may scare away some potential buyers, but this could be just the right fish for a certain person. This guide will cover the aquarium needs, food & dietary requirements, and tank mate suggestions for the Helfrichi Dartfish.

    Aquarium Requirements

    Helfrichi Firefish grow to 2.5″ and will do great in saltwater fish tanks that are 20 gallons or larger. They will spend most of their time hovering near and around live rock. I recommend providing them with plenty of rockwork, with different-sized holes so they can choose which crevice to call home.

    Like many species of dartfish, the Helfrichi Firefish is known to jump out of fish tanks when frightened. Something as basic as the lights turning on can cause this fish to dart up and out of the aquarium. I recommend providing a well-fitted lid to help prevent this fish from jumping out of the aquarium.

    Water Parameters

    Keeping water parameters in check is very important to maintaining a healthy ecosystem in a glass/acrylic box. Whether it’s coral or fish, they will not do well if their parameters are swinging constantly, or are out of their normal range. The following are the water parameters that the Helfrichi Firefish will thrive under.

    • Water Temperature: 72°-78° F
    • dKH: 8 – 12
    • pH: 8.1 – 8.4
    • Salinity: 1.020 – 1.025 sg

    Consider getting a High Range pH and KH test kit to test for pH & dKH. Keeping your temperature between 72° and 78° can be accomplished with a heater. Take a look at my guide which showcases some great aquarium heaters. Lastly, I would pick up a Refractometer from Amazon to keep an eye on your salinity levels. If calibrated correctly, refractometers are much more accurate compared to a hydrometer which loses accuracy due to salt buildup on the dial. Check out Different Salinity Reading Tools For Saltwater Fish Tanks to get an idea of other salinity testing devices available.

    Are Helfrichi Firefish Reef Safe?

    Yes, the Helfrichi Firefish is reef-safe. It is a carnivore that consumes microorganisms in rockwork or that are free-floating, but it will not bother coral or other desirable invertebrates.

    Food & Diet

    Due to its carnivorous diet, the Helfrichi Dartfish should be fed an assortment of protein-rich foods. They should readily take Brine Shrimp, Mysis Shrimp, and other frozen fish food. I suggest also feeding them the NewLife Spectrum Marine Formula. Providing a variety of foods gives them a wider range of nutrients, which will aid in keeping them healthy.

    Tank Mates

    Helfrichi Firefish are generally very peaceful fish. They do best with other peaceful fish. They will do great with Chromis, Dwarf Angels, Blennies, Clownfish, Sand Sifting Gobies, Tangs, and many other species of fish. I would be careful when keeping them with fish that use the same space in the aquarium. So I would be a little cautious with Dottybacks, Wrasses, and other similar types of fish. Also, I would not recommend keeping them with aggressive fish or fish that can eat them. So fish such as Eels, Groupers, Triggers, Lionfish, and large Angelfish.

    You can also keep Helfrichi Firefish alone or as a pair. Due to their cost, I would not recommend buying groups and trying to have them “sort it out” amongst themselves.

    Breeding

    Successfully breeding and raising young is either incredibly hard or impossible in a typical home reef tank or saltwater aquarium. I do not have experience breeding Helfrichi Firefish. However, there are plenty of discussions available among fish keepers. Here is a great forum post on reef2reef that discusses how to distinguish between males and females so you can find a pair.

    Final Notes

    There are many different species of Firefish available. The Helfrichi is the most expensive, but some might say it’s the most beautiful. They are gorgeous fish and could be an excellent addition to many reef tanks. If you have any experience with this fish, please don’t hesitate to share it with me.

  • How To Setup a Refugium in a Saltwater Aquarium

    How To Setup a Refugium in a Saltwater Aquarium

    Creating a refugium in a saltwater aquarium can be a fantastic way to add extra filtration, more beneficial bacteria, and a space for microorganisms to flourish in your saltwater aquarium. You can create a refugium in many different ways, and this guide will cover some of the most common ways to do so. With aquarium keeping, there is no single solution that works best, especially when discussing such a broad topic as how to set up a refugium. There are a million and a half opinions, that come from a good place, but it can be challenging for new hobbyists to find solid ground in an ocean of different experiences. This article is designed to make setting up a refugium a little less stressful.

    What is a Saltwater Refugium?

    We are always battling nutrient levels in aquariums thanks to our feeding regime. A refugium is a section in your aquarium system that is dedicated to growing macroalgae and a haven for microorganisms such as copepods. Macroalgae uptakes nutrients such as nitrates and phosphates which come from food and animal waste. Just like how plants in a freshwater aquarium use nutrients to grow, the macroalgae do the same except in a marine environment. The macroalgae “holds” the nutrients and we remove them by trimming the macroalgae and physically removing it from the aquarium. Just like freshwater plants, macroalgae will require light to grow, which we will discuss later in this article.

    Copepods are very small invertebrates that are often food for fish and other animals in our display tanks. A refugium is a place in your aquarium that is safe from predation because fish don’t have access to it. Copepods and other small invertebrates use this space as a refuge and this allows their populations to multiply and grow without fear of getting eaten. Eventually, these populations of microorganisms will make their way back into the display aquarium, where they become food for fish such as gobies, blennies, wrasses, and many others.

    Other Refugium Benefits

    Besides nutrient intake, a refugium that has a light interval opposite to the aquarium’s display section will keep your pH levels more stable. pH rises throughout the day due to plants and algae photosynthesizing and creating more oxygen. Photosynthesis does not happen at night, and you will likely see a drop in pH during this time. If you run a refugium on a lighting interval opposite to your display aquarium, there will always be a light period, which means there will always be photosynthesis occurring, and increased levels of oxygen, which will raise your pH level.

    Many aquarists use this method in an attempt to keep their pH levels from swinging. However, pH levels swing naturally through the day and night cycle so it’s not a mandatory thing to do. You are more than welcome to run your refugium on the same lighting cycle as your display tank.

    Do I Need a Refugium?

    No, you do not need a refugium to successfully run a saltwater fish tank or a reef tank. However, the benefits of keeping a refugium make it a very attractive addition to your fish tank. I still recommend conducting water changes to remove excess nutrients, detritus, and to supplement your aquarium with fresh minerals. A refugium is an additional tool we can use to help keep our water parameters in line and as an additional source of food for your fish. It is not a complete package solution to get out of conducting water changes.

    How to Make a Refugium for Saltwater Aquarium

    Before we dive into the specifics of setting up a refugium, I want to emphasize that it’s best to hold off on adding lights and macroalgae into the refugium before the aquarium is established with fish and coral. Likely, the macroalgae will not be able to sustain itself if the aquarium is too “new” and there are not enough nutrients for it to consume. I recommend setting up and having all the components of the refugium ready to go and adding your macroalgae once there are signs of increased levels of nitrates and phosphates.

    You can make a refugium as complex or as simple as you want. I prefer keeping things as simple as possible.

    Refugium in Sump System

    If you have a sump system, you may want to use or convert your second chamber into a refugium. If you are just starting a fish tank, it’ll be easy to insert everything you need to get started. However, if you are thinking of converting the second chamber, you will likely need to turn off your return pump before adding sand and keeping it off to give the sand time to settle. The supplies needed for a sump refugium aren’t very complex. The following are what I choose when setting up a refugium in a sump:

    Live Sand for Refugium (optional)

    There is a lot of back and forth on what is important in a refugium. From the amount of reading that I have done on the topic, I have learned that the safest route to avoid creating a detritus trap or other problems later on is to set up your refugium with live rock, macroalgae, and lighting, but without adding any live sand. Detritus will likely settle somewhere in your sump, and it’ll be much easier to clean out if there isn’t any sand present. If you would like to have sand in your refugium, I would recommend having no less than 3″ to provide more space for bacteria to colonize and break down detritus. I have used CaribSea Fiji Pink Sand in my refugium, and it hasn’t caused any problems for me.

    Live Rock

    I recommend adding appropriately sized pieces of live rock into your refugium. The live rock will provide more space for beneficial bacteria and will be a home for all the tiny invertebrates and other critters. I would avoid pieces that are too large because they will inhibit the growth of your macroalgae. I would also avoid adding rock rubble because detritus will enjoy settling around the rock rubble.

    Lighting

    I provided three different lighting options that should work for your refugium. The first is the Kolem COB LED Grow Light. This should do incredibly well in aiding the growth of green macroalgae such as chaetomorpha. Chaeto absorbs the red coloration, which is what this light provides. The Kessil H80 Tuna Flora Light does something very similar, except is a more well-known brand in the aquarium trade. Lastly, I added the Relassy Waterproof Plant Light which provides a more well-rounded spectrum of lighting. If you’re looking to grow red-colored macroalgae such as the PomPom Macroalgae, you will do better with cool colored lights.

    Circulation Pump

    Chaetomorpha and a few other macro species benefit from tumbling in a refugium. A circulation pump may or may not be needed depending on the size and shape of your sump system’s second chamber and the amount of flow going through it. If you see that the bottom portion of your chaeto is dying out or you’re getting a buildup of gunk within the chaeto, you may want to encourage it to tumble, which a circulation pump can assist with.

    Refugium For Hang On Back Filter

    If you’re working with a smaller reef tank or saltwater aquarium, you’re likely not working with a sump system. As of this writing, I am running a small reef tank with a hang-on back refugium. For this to be successful, I am running an AquaClear 70 Hang-on Back Power Filter as my main source of water flow and filtration. I have the main compartment of the power filter filled with smaller pieces of live rock and chaetomorpha growing above it. A small 5W UPETTOOLS Aquarium Light provides the light needed for the chaeto.

    I chose the AquaClear Power Filter for this, mainly because of the size of the main chamber. I like being able to gut just about everything from the filter and customize it to my needs. Other Power Filters can work, but I have always had a soft spot for this brand. You can check out other AquaClear Power Filters, their specs, sizes, and GPH ratings by clicking the link provided.

    In Tank Refugium

    You can setup a refugium inside of your display tank. It might end up being the most interesting part of your display. The first thing you will need for something like this is a container. The CPR Aquatic in Tank Refugium may be just what you are looking for, but I have also heard people using something as simple as a plastic breeder box to set this up. Be mindful that the suction cups on the CPR Aquatic in Tank Refugium are not incredibly strong.

    Once you have your container, you’ll probably be limited to only using small live rock pieces and macroalgae for this type of refugium. Some might even call this a glorified algae reactor instead of a refugium. For the sake of this article, let’s say it’s a fuge because it will still be a haven for microorganisms. You may get away with adding sand into this, but I would be worried about too much weight and sand sneaking out through the grates.

    Lastly we need to think about lighting. It’s possible that this type of refugium will get all the lighting it needs from the display light. I would probably avoid adding an external light because that will likely bleed into the aquarium. If too much light bleeds into your aquarium, you’ll likely see algal blooms forming in your display.

    Final Notes

    There are plenty of options when it comes to setting up a refugium. You can get one set up in a sump, hang on the back filter, or even in your display tank. The options are there. Do you need a refugium for a reef tank? No, of course not but they are incredibly fun to work with and it’s very rewarding to say you grew live plants in a saltwater environment. One thing we have not covered is cryptic refugiums. These are unique because they use zero lighting, and instead use different sponges and other filter feeders to aid in cleaning your water.

    Image by Coughdrop12 on wikiMedia

  • Sleeper Blue Dot Goby – Complete Care Guide

    The Sleeper Blue Dot Goby (Valenciennea sexguttata) is a large sand-sifting species of goby that is often kept in saltwater aquariums. This goby is predominantly white, with small blue dots around its face and gills. Blue Dot Gobies will grow to about 5.5″ inches when fully grown. These heavy-duty excavators are fantastic at helping you get a nice clean sand bed.This article will cover the aquarium requirements, dietary needs, tank mate suggestions, and more for the Blue Spotted Goby.

    Aquarium Requirements

    Due to its size, Blue Dot Sleeper Gobies could be kept in aquariums that are 30 gallons or larger. However, I recommend keeping them in something even bigger. I suggest choosing a smaller species of goby for a 30-gallon fish tank. My top picks are Yellow Watchman, Two Spot, or Yasha White Ray Gobies. These species don’t grow as large as the Blue Dot Goby, so their food requirements will not be as demanding.

    Sand sifting gobies, sift through sand in search of micro-organisms like copepods. Many gobies will likely consume processed fish food, but there may be some that are incredibly picky. Regardless of aquarium size, it is recommended to set up a refugium, which will be a great place for copepods to grow, reproduce, and supplement the aquarium with live foods. Sumps are great places for refugium, but for smaller saltwater aquariums, many people convert a Hang-On Back Filter into a refuge. A Hang-On refugium can also be purchased, such as the CPR Aquatic Tank Refugium.

    Sleeper Gobies can jump, like many other goby species. Anything can spook them and cause them to dart up and out of the aquarium. I recommend providing a well-fitted lid on your fish tank to avoid this.

    Rock & Sand

    The Blue Dot Sleeper Goby will need live sand, like Carib Sea Fiji Pink. In my opinion, this is one of the better sands because it is not too fine and not too coarse. You’ll want to avoid crushed coral sand or sand that is incredibly fine. Crushed coral sand will be a little too coarse, and the goby will not be able to sift through it. Sand that is incredibly fine will constantly be stirred up and may get all over your aquarium.

    I recommend using live rock for your saltwater aquarium as well. Blue Dot Gobies will create their burrows in the sand bed along the rockwork. Live rock is also beneficial for your reef tank because it provides quite a bit of surface area for beneficial bacteria to grow.

    Water Parameters

    Keeping stable water parameters is very important in keeping your fish, coral, and whole aquarium system in check. Most saltwater fish will have the same water parameter requirements. The following water parameter ranges are what the Blue Dot Sleeper Goby does best with.

    • Water Temperature: 72°-78° F
    • dKH: 8 – 12
    • pH: 8.1 – 8.4
    • Salinity: 1.020 – 1.025 sg

    Consider getting a High Range pH and KH test kit to test for pH & dKH. Keeping your temperature between 72° and 78° can be accomplished with a heater. Take a look at my guide which showcases some great aquarium heaters. Lastly, I would pick up a Refractometer from Amazon to keep an eye on your salinity levels. If calibrated correctly, refractometers are much more accurate compared to a hydrometer which loses accuracy due to salt buildup on the dial. Check out Different Salinity Reading Tools For Saltwater Fish Tanks to get an idea of other salinity testing devices available.

    Is the Blue Dot Sleeper Goby Reef Safe?

    Yes, the Blue Dot Sleeper Goby is reef safe. It should not bother any coral or invertebrate in your aquarium. However, if you keep clams and other coral in your sand bed, the Sleeper Goby may accidently bury parts or all of them, when it is sifting for food.

    Food & Diet

    This fish species is carnivorous. They will spend most of their time sifting through the sand bed looking for microorganisms. Many individual fish in this species will readily consume Mysis Shrimp, Brine Shrimp, and protein-rich pellet food, but there may be some picky ones. Your system needs to be large enough and established enough to be home to many different microorganisms found in the sand. As stated above, a refugium with macroalgae and live rock is an excellent nursery for these microorganisms.

    Tank Mates

    Blue Dot Gobies are generally peaceful and should keep to their territory. They should not really bother any other fish, besides other gobies and jawfish that may encroach on their territory. This fish species should do well with most other peaceful marine fish. They’re great to keep with Anthias, Basslets, Blennies, Butterflies, Chromis, Clownfish, Dwarf Angels, Foxfaces, Tangs, Wrasses, and much more. Avoid keeping them with aggressive fish, and fish that can easily swallow the Blue Dot Goby.

    It is possible to keep a pair of Blue Dot Sleeper Gobies in an appropriately sized aquarium together. Unfortunately, I do not have information on how to sex this fish.

    diamond goby vs sleeper blue dot goby fish

    Is a Citron Goby and Sleeper Blue Dot Goby Compatible?

    The Citron Goby and Sleeper Goby should generally be good tank mates. The Citron Goby does not spend time in the sand bed but instead is a rock-dwelling species of fish. On the other hand, the Blue Dot Goby spends most of its day sifting through the sand bed. The two fish should rarely interact with one another.

    Breeding

    I do not have any other breeding information to provide for this species.

    Final Notes

    Blue Dot Sleeper Gobies are powerhouses in regards to keeping a good portion of your sand bed clean. Their incredibly large mouths will churn through sand in search of food. Although they are not the most vibrant species of fish, their white colorations and gentle blue spots still make them fantastic options for a reef tank. If you are not convinced in keeping the Blue Dot Goby, you’re welcome to check out many other goby species.

  • Different Salinity Reading Tools For Saltwater Fish Tank

    Keeping tabs on your salinity is important to successfully maintain a brackish water or saltwater aquarium. Salinity is the measure of dissolved salts in water for those who don’t know. Brackish water and saltwater aquariums require a specific range of dissolved salts. Brackish water environments have specific gravity levels between 1.005 and 1.012. Saltwater aquariums can have specific gravity ranges between 1.023 and 1.028 sg. However, saltwater aquariums are usually kept between 1.024 and 1.026 sg.

    There are many different tools available to measure salinity, and of course, everyone has their opinion on which is best to use. This list is not a “best salinity reader” article, but instead, it will provide a list of different salinity reading tools and discuss some of the pros and cons of each.

    1. Hydrometer

    Let’s start with the tool that everyone is usually first introduced to, the hydrometer. There are different kinds of hydrometers, The most common type of aquarium hydrometer requires you to pour water into the device and a swinging arm moves to where the specific gravity/salinity level is. A good example of this is the Hygger Salinity Tester. It’s a fairly straightforward device, and can generally provide you with an accurate salinity reading.

    Pros of Swinging Arm Hydrometer

    One of the pros of this device is that it is incredibly cheap. For example, the Hygger Salinity Tester is only $9.99. It can test any type of aquarium from freshwater, brackish water, and saltwater, and it has both specific gravity and salinity readings.

    Cons of Swinging Arm Hydrometer

    First, this device is very sensitive to temperature. Many are calibrated to work best at a specific temperature. You have to check what temperature your hydrometer is calibrated to and match that temperature to get an accurate reading. I have also read that the readings may become inaccurate because of salt crystal build-up on the device if it is not properly cleaned after use. Be sure to clean the device with RO water thoroughly after every use.

    Floating Hydrometer

    Floating hydrometers are next on the list. A great example of a floating hydrometer is the Tropic Marin – High Precision Hydrometer. This one is even easier to use than the swinging arm hydrometer. It is made out of glass, with a scale at the top that shows different levels of specific gravity. You simply drop it into your aquarium, bucket, etc., and the device will rise or drop depending on the amount of salt in the aquarium. The specific gravity is where the scale meets the water. The Tropic Marin – High Precision Hydrometer has a scale of 1.021 – 1.031, so it will only work for saltwater aquariums.

    Pros of Floating Hydrometer

    One of the perks of this device is that it is very simple to use. All you need to do is drop it into your aquarium, a bucket, a graduated cylinder, or anything else that will allow you to read off the scale. There is also zero calibration needed.

    Cons of Floating Hydrometer

    This device is fairly fragile because it is made out of glass. If not properly handled, it can easily hit something and break. It also is calibrated to work best at 77°F. It is important to match this temperature to get proper readings. You may have to clean the device thoroughly with RO water from time to time. Salt crystals can form on the glass and weigh it down, which can give false readings. Lastly, this device needs very calm water to provide an accurate reading, otherwise, it will bob and move around and will likely provide inaccurate results.

    2. Refractometer

    There are two different kinds of refractometers we will discuss in this article. An analog refractometer, which requires you to look through a lens to get your salinity reading, and a digital refractometer which has a screen that displays the salinity level before your eyes. Both are great tools to use, analog refractometers are usually what hobbyists move to from swinging arm hydrometers, but digital refractometers are great for anyone who just can’t see those little numbers well.

    Analog Refractometer

    Just a few years ago, it seemed like many analog refractometers cost an arm and a leg. Now, the price has gone down significantly and you can pick one up for around 16$ – 20$. The Agriculture Solutions Store has Salinity Refractometers on sale for $18.99, which is much better than the prices many years ago.

    The device is fairly easy to use, First, you must calibrate the device to “0”. Use distilled water or RO water to do this. Simply place a few drops of distilled water on the blue prism, and use the provided screwdriver to turn the calibration screw until it reaches “0”. There should be instructions that take you through this process in the box.

    Once calibrated, wipe the prism to remove the distilled water. Once you do that, you can place your saltwater on the prism to test your salinity and/or specific gravity.

    Pros of Analog Refractomers

    Once calibrated, this refractometer is very accurate. You may need to check its accuracy from time to time, but it should bode you well for a few months without re-calibration. I use analog refractometers as my go-to salinity checker. The one linked above also provides automatic temperature compensation (ATC). This pretty much means that you don’t have to worry about the temperature of the water to get accurate salinity readings.

    Cons of Analog Refractometers

    The biggest con of this device is that it may be harder to see the numbers when looking through the lens for anyone people with vision impairments. Also, now you have to remember to keep an eye on the calibration of the device. Over time, it may need to be re-calibrated, and if you forget, your salinity levels may be higher or lower than usual.

    Digital Refractometer

    Digital refractometers are similar to analog refractometers, in the way that you place water on a prism. However, a digital refractometer uses an LED to determine the amount of refraction occurring, or the angle of refraction. The bend in light due to the particles suspended in water will determine the salinity/specific gravity. A fairly popular digital refractometer is the Milwaukee MA887. The link provided will take you to its Amazon store page. You can also go into a deep dive into all its components and how it works by checking out the Milwaukee MA887 manual.

    Pros of Digital Refractometer

    One of the biggest pros of this device is its ease of use. You don’t have to look through lenses or try to determine where the salinity line falls under. You simply place your water on the prism and let the device do the rest. The Milwaukee MA887 will give you results in around 1.5 seconds. On top of that, you will get results in specific gravity, salinity, or practical salinity unit (PSU).

    Cons of Digital Refractometer

    This thing is expensive, and not many of us are ready to dish out $100+ for a device that reads salt levels. Also, from my understanding, this device isn’t perfect in regards to accuracy. If we are specifically looking at the Milwaukee MA887, it has an accuracy range of +/- .002. If that’s true, then you may get results of 1.026, but in reality, your salt content could be sitting at either 1.024 or 1.026 sg.

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    3. Conductivity Salinity Testers

    Salinity can be tested with a conductivity tester. Saltwater is more conductive than freshwater. The more minerals there is in water, the more conductive it will be. Saltwater has a lot of dissolved salt, which makes it more conductive. The Hanna Salinity Tester (HI98319) is a perfect example of a tool that uses conductivity to determine salinity, PSU, or specific gravity of your aquarium water. There are many other types of conductivity tools out there, but after doing some research, this one is fairly popular.

    Pros of Conductivity Testers

    Speaking specifically about the Hanna Salinity Tester, the machine is very easy to use. You can go into detail on how it works, by checking out the Hanna Salinity Tester manual. Once calibrated, all you’ll have to do is dip the tester into your aquarium to get a reading. Another pro of this device is that it will also provide you with a temperature reading of your aquarium.

    Cons of Conductivity Testers

    Not everyone wants to think about calibrating their devices. The Hanna Salinity Tester will also need re-calibration from time to time. Hanna Instruments makes it a little easier, with their 35 PPT Salinity Calibration Solution (HI70024P). You can read through the manual to see how to properly calibrate this device. Also, this device is a little more expensive compared to hydrometers or manual refractometers, but the work it puts in could make it worthwhile.

    Final Notes

    Finding the perfect salinity tester is up for debate. What works great for some, may not work well for others. Whether a hydrometer or refractometer is more accurate, is completely dependent on the person using it. All these tools work well, but some may be better for an individual than others. If I had to choose two products from this list to add to my arsenal, I would pick the Topic Marin Floating Hydrometer and Hanna Salinity Tester. I love the ease of use of the Topic Marin Hydrometer, and I think it’s a great idea to use conductivity to determine salinity levels with the Hanna Salinity Tester. If you have a personal favorite tool that you use to test your salinity, don’t hesitate to share your experience! Check out more aquarium resources to continue your fishkeeping journey!

  • White Banded Possum Wrasse- Complete Care Guide

    White Banded Possum Wrasse- Complete Care Guide

    The White Banded Possum Wrasse (Wetmorella albofasciata) is an elusive but incredibly fun fish you can keep in a saltwater fish tank. They are predominately red with patches of black throughout, and vertical white bands spread across its body. It is a small species of wrasse but also very eye-catching. This guide will discuss White Banded Possum Wrasse’s aquarium needs, dietary requirements, tank mate compatibility, and more.

    Aquarium Requirements

    This fish will grow to only 2.5 inches in length which makes it a great choice for a nano reef tank, like a 10-gallon. They do best with varying-sized pieces of live rock for it to explore. As stated above, they are elusive and very shy. They will hide in and out of the rockwork when scared, stressed, and when searching for food. Possum Wrasses do not bury themselves in the sand at night, so they do not necessarily require sand in the aquarium. However, live sand is beneficial for the overall health of your fish tank.

    Wrasses are notorious for jumping out of fish tanks, that’s no different for the Possum Wrasse. I recommend covering your aquarium with a well-fitted lid to prevent this from happening.

    Water Parameters

    Keeping water parameters in check is one thing you should strive to do. This is especially true for saltwater fish, because they are a little more sensitive to water fluctuations than freshwater fish. The following are water parameters needed by the White Banded Possum Wrasse.

    • Water Temperature: 72°-78° F
    • dKH: 8 – 12
    • pH: 8.1 – 8.4
    • Salinity: 1.020 – 1.025 sg

    Consider getting a High Range pH and KH test kit to test for pH & dKH. Keeping your temperature between 72° and 78° can be accomplished with a heater. Take a look at my guide which showcases some great aquarium heaters. Lastly, I would pick up a Refractometer from Amazon to keep an eye on your salinity levels. If calibrated correctly, refractometers are much more accurate compared to a hydrometer which loses accuracy due to salt buildup on the dial. Check out Different Salinity Reading Tools For Saltwater Fish Tanks to get an idea of other salinity testing devices available.

    Is the White Banded Possum Wrasse Reef Safe?

    The White Banded Possum Wrasse is reef safe. It will not bother any coral or invertebrates, such as crabs, snails, and shrimp. It will be a benefit for your reef because it will consume nuisance inverts like bristleworms and flatworms, that can irritate coral if populations aren’t kept under control.

    Food & Diet

    Possum Wrasses are carnivorous and require a protein-rich diet. They will find a lot of food on their own in the aquarium, but should also be fed at least once a day. I recommend providing them with a variation of Mysis Shrimp, Brine Shrimp, and other meaty foods. They may also consume pellet food, and my go-to pellet food is New Life Spectrum – Marine Formula.

    Tank Mates

    White Banded Possum Wrasses are incredibly peaceful fish. They are much more docile and elusive than many other Wrasse species. They will do well with most other peaceful marine fish. The list is long but some of the fish they will do great with are:

    • Dwarf Angels
    • Anthias
    • Basslets
    • Blennies
    • Butterflies
    • Cardinals
    • Chromis
    • Clownfish
    • Foxfaces
    • Gobies
    • Tangs

    There are plenty of other fish species that are compatible with Possum Wrasses. When picking out tank mates, consider the space in the aquarium the fish will use. There may be territorial disputes if two or more fish utilize the same space. Also, consider the size of your aquarium. If your fish tank is too small, you’re just asking for fights to break out between fish. If possible, I would avoid keeping The White Banded Possum Wrasse with other Wrasses, just to avoid aggression and fighting. They will not do well with large-mouth fish, such as Anglers, Groupers, Eels, and many other large fish.

    Breeding

    I have never attempted to breed White Banded Possum Wrasses, and there is not much information available on whether it’s even possible. Saltwater fish in general are incredibly hard or impossible to breed in captivity, with a few exceptions of course. If anyone has information on breeding this fish, please let me know!

    Final Notes

    White Banded Possum Wrasses are very unique fish with an arrowhead shaped body, and interesting color patterns. They’re very elusive and shy when introduced into the aquarium. With time and patience they will warm-up to you and their surroundings. The White Banded Possum Wrasse is harder to find compared to the Yellow Banded Possum Wrasse, but either species is an excellent choice for a saltwater reef tank. If this wrasse is not for you, check out other Reef Safe Wrasses available.

    Image by Mark Rosenstein on wikiMedia

  • Yasha White Shrimp Goby – Complete Care Guide

    Yasha White Shrimp Goby – Complete Care Guide

    The Yasha White Shrimp Goby (Stonogobiops yasha), often called the Yasha Goby, is a unique but also hard-to-find saltwater fish. It is a sand-sifting goby that is excellent for nano tanks. It has a mainly white body with red, orange, and yellow markings throughout its body. Yasha Gobies also have an elongated dorsal fin which adds to its uniqueness. This guide will discuss this goby’s aquarium requirements, food and dietary needs, tank mate compatibility, and more.

    Aquarium Requirements

    Yasha Gobies stay very small compared to many other goby species. They only grow to about 2.5″ fully grown. This makes them fantastic candidates for nano reef tanks. Yasha Gobies can be kept in aquariums as small as 10 gallons. They will spend their days sifting for micro-organisms and will create burrows in sand along live rock. So it’s important to provide a deep sand bed and a fair amount of rock for them to use.

    Like many other gobies, Yasha Shrimp Gobies should have a well-fitted lid on their aquarium. When they are spooked or stressed, they often dart from danger and may jump out of the fish tank as a result. You can likely purchase pre-made aquarium lids, or you can create your own using glass, acrylic, screen kits, or many different types of material.

    Water Parameters

    Water parameters are incredibly important to keeping an aquarium successfully. Swinging parameters, or water parameters that do not match the requirements of fish, invertebrates, and coral will cause you to struggle in this hobby. Some fish can tolerate parameters that do not match their needs, but we want our fish to thrive. The following are water parameters needed for Yasha Gobies to thrive.

    • Water Temperature: 72°-78° F
    • dKH: 8 – 12
    • pH: 8.1 – 8.4
    • Salinity: 1.020 – 1.025 sg

    Consider getting a High Range pH and KH test kit to test for pH & dKH. Keeping your temperature between 72° and 78° can be accomplished with a heater. Take a look at my guide which showcases some great aquarium heaters. Lastly, I would pick up a Refractometer from Amazon to keep an eye on your salinity levels. If calibrated correctly, refractometers are much more accurate compared to a hydrometer which loses accuracy due to salt buildup on the dial. Check out Different Salinity Reading Tools For Saltwater Fish Tanks to get an idea of other salinity testing devices available.

    Is the Yasha Goby Reef Safe?

    Yes, the Yasha Goby is reef-safe. It will not actively damage coral or consume invertebrates. However, be cautious because coral kept on your sand bed can be buried since this species of fish spends its day sifting sand in search of food. I would recommend keeping as much coral as you can on your live rock to avoid it getting buried by gobies.

    Food & Diet

    Yasha Shrimp Gobies are carnivorous fish and sift through sand in search of micro-organisms. The food you provide should mimic their diet in nature. The best foods for this goby are Mysis Shrimp and Brine Shrimp. Foods like Krill may be a little large for Yasha Gobies. I would also recommend feeding a protein-rich pellet food to your goby. One of my favorites is the New Life Spectrum Marine Formula.

    Tank Mates

    Yasha Gobies are generally very peaceful fish. They do best with other peaceful fish. They’ll do great with fish such as Anthias, Blennies, Butterflies, Clownfish, Dwarf Angels, Foxface, rock-dwelling Gobies, Tangs, and Wrasses. I would be cautious when keeping Yasha Gobies with other sand-sifting Gobies or Jawfish because they spend most of their time in and around the sand bed. The Yasha Goby should be one of the first bottom-dwelling fish added to your aquarium. They may get bullied out of their burrow by other goby species, so it’s best to introduce them first to give them a chance to establish their territory. I would not recommend keeping them with large and more aggressive fish.

    In appropriately sized aquariums, Yasha Shrimp Gobies can be kept in pairs. You can distinguish a male from a female fairly easily. The males have a black spot on their pelvic fin, while females do not.

    Yasha Goby and Pistol Shrimp

    The Yasha Shrimp Goby will pair with a pistol shrimp. There are many different types of Pistol Shrimp available, and some pair better than others. The one many reefkeepers seem to suggest is the Candy Stripe Pistol Shrimp, which is sometimes called the Randall’s Pistol Shrimp. Tiger Pistol Shrimp pair better with larger gobies like the Watchman Goby. You’re welcome to check out the Yellow Watchman Goby – Complete Care Guide for more information on them.

    Breeding

    There has been success in breeding Yasha White Gobies in captivity. Many you see on sale online are captive bred. However, I do not have any information on how to breed Yasha Gobies. You can check out the success story of breeding this fish on Reef Builders by Rising Tide Conservation.

    Final Notes

    There are many different species of sand sifting goby available in this hobby. Some are heavy-duty sifters, like the Sleeper Gobies, and others are less so. The Yasha Goby is a great fish if you’re looking for a pop of color and a fish that will not rearrange your aquarium like other goby species.

  • Pink Streaked Wrasse – Complete Care Guide

    The Pink Streaked Wrasse (Pseudocheilinops ataenia) is a beautiful species of wrasse with various pink, orange, and blue colorations. As its name suggests, the Pink Streak Wrasse has horizontal “streaks” throughout its body. They’re a very peaceful fish species and are generally easy to care for. This guide will dive deeper into the Pink Streak Wrasse’s aquarium requirements, dietary needs, tank mate compatibility, and breeding.

    Aquarium Requirements

    Sometimes called the Pink Streaked Pygmy Wrasse, this fish species is an excellent choice for many different saltwater aquariums, including nano fish tanks because they only grow to 2.5 inches. I recommend keeping them in 20 gallons or larger aquariums, but if you have plenty of saltwater experience, they can thrive in reef tanks as small as 10 gallons. I also recommend providing them with plenty of live rock of different sizes because they are often very shy when first introduced into the aquarium.

    Many wrasses are known to jump out of the fish tank. That’s no different with the Pink Streaked Wrasse. I recommend a well-fitted lid to prevent this from happening.

    Water Paremeters

    Having stable water parameters is an important aspect of keeping a successful saltwater aquarium. The following are water parameters this species does best under.

    • Water Temperature: 72°-78° F
    • dKH: 8 – 12
    • pH: 8.1 – 8.4
    • Salinity: 1.020 – 1.025 sg

    Consider getting a High Range pH and KH test kit to test for pH & dKH. Keeping your temperature between 72° and 78° can be accomplished with a heater. Take a look at my guide which showcases some great aquarium heaters. Lastly, I would pick up a Refractometer from Amazon to keep an eye on your salinity levels. If calibrated correctly, refractometers are much more accurate compared to a hydrometer which loses accuracy due to salt buildup on the dial. Check out Different Salinity Reading Tools For Saltwater Fish Tanks to get an idea of other salinity testing devices available.

    Are Pink Streaked Wrasse Reef Safe?

    Pink Streaked Wrasses are reef safe. They should not bother any desirable coral or invertebrate in the aquarium. You will often see this species of fish weave in between different kinds of coral, but it will not bother them. They may nibble on nuisance inverts like bristleworms and flatworms.

    Food & Diet

    This species is carnivorous, so they will need a protein-rich diet. A good source of protein will be Mysis Shrimp, Brine Shrimp, and other meaty foods found at fish stores. I recommend giving them pellet food as well, to provide a well-rounded diet. For pellet food, the New Life Spectrum Marine Formula is a good choice, but many different brands can be used. Lastly, it never hurts to provide flake food for this wrasse.

    Tank Mates

    Pink Streak Wrasses are very peaceful. They will mostly mind to themselves and are more likely to be picked on by other fish due to their docile nature. They’re amazing for community saltwater fish tanks. They will do great with fish like Clownfish, Chromis, Gobies, Cardinalfish, Butterflies, Jawfish, Dwarf Angels, Tangs, and Blennies. I would be a little cautious when adding them with fish that use the same space in the aquarium, like Dottybacks and other Wrasses.

    I would not recommend them with predatory fish or fish that get incredibly large. Keep them away from Eels, Triggers, Groupers, Large Angels, Anglers, and many other types of large aggressive fish. They will either get picked on or become food for the large fish.

    Breeding

    I have never bred this species of fish before, but I have read that fish keepers have kept them in small groups. There is not much information on successfully breeding Pink Streaked Wrasses, but you can distinguish between males and females fairly easily because they are sexually dichromatic. Males will have more vibrant streaks of yellow and the females will have a blue coloring over their gills. Regardless, of being able to distinguish between male and female, I feel like the Pink Streaked Wrasse, like many other saltwater fish will be incredibly difficult to breed successfully in a home aquarium.

    Final Notes

    There are a lot of different species of Wrasses available in this hobby. The Pink Streak Wrasse is considered one of the best for reef aquariums. They have gorgeous colorations and are incredibly peaceful. If you’re setting up a nano reef, consider getting a Pink Streaked Wrasse. If you are not sold on this species, check out other reef-safe Wrasses available in this hobby. It is a growing list of species, so stay tuned for future updates.