Author: BiomesInaBox

Denison Barb – The Peaceful Barb
With the large variety of fish that can inhabit a fish tank, it can become overwhelming trying to decide the right ones to put inside to inhabit the enclosure. Especially when hearing about barbs (more specifically) tiger barbs have a reputation for being brutes and aggressive in an aquarium. There are more barbs that are also aggressive but there are some that are nice and gentle. Specifically, the Denison Barb.
Temperment & Size
Denison barbs sometimes known as Rose Line sharks look like a dominating force inside of an aquarium but they are one of the most beautiful and gentle animals you can keep. It is of course not recommended to keep them with little fish like neon tetras or ember tetras because they will become lunch, but they’re perfectly welcome in a community aquarium filled with larger peaceful fish.
Photo by Anandarajkumar at wikimedia
These fish love to be in larger groups preferably 5 or more fish. Also, do not forget to keep a good lid on your aquarium because these fish are known to be jumpers! Because of their love for being in groups and active personalities, I would not recommend putting this fish in anything smaller than 50 gallons of water.
The Denison Barb is different from your typical barb. This fish is far longer and more streamlined. They are normally found in fast-moving streams in the wild and appreciate higher oxygen levels in an aquarium. They also grow to be about 4 to 6 inches when they are full-grown.
Feeding & Aquarium Requirements
The Roseline Shark will happily take most foods and giving them a large variety of food only benefits them. They will gladly eat bloodworms, fish flakes, pellet food, and algae flakes/wafers/pellets. They are safe to keep with live plants and will not go out of their way to eat them! They’re omnivorous fish so giving them many options will keep them happy!
They enjoy an enclosure with a pH between 6.8 – 7.8 and temperatures ranging from 60 – 77 degrees Fahrenheit. They should be right at home with other tropical fish because for the most part, their water parameter needs are quite similar. Overall, they are quite easy to care for as long as they are introduced into an established aquarium.
Final Thoughts
Denison barbs are incredibly active fish and are insanely beautiful with their gray black and red coloring. They will make any aquarium seem more vibrant and bring new life to the setup. Keep them in nice groups and feed them a variety of food and they should be happy for quite some time!
Photo by Anandarajkumar at wikimedia
July 11, 2020
Tiger Barb – Friend or foe?
Tiger barbs are quite a gorgeous little fish. They have beautiful vibrant black, orange, and tan coloration! This is the perfect Halloween-themed fish. They’re also a wonderful centerpiece for many other aquariums because of the dominating presence of swimming in large shoals. Unfortunately, caution must be taken when keeping tiger barbs because they are fin nippers. Male tiger barbs are the primary nippers because they constantly battle with one another to assert dominance. They are considered semi-aggressive fish which may limit which fish they can be mixed with. This guide will try and give some useful information on helping tiger barbs thrive as well as help the fin-nipping problem in your aquarium.
Tiger Barb Requirements
Tiger barbs can grow to a size of about 4 inches long. A 30-gallon aquarium is the minimum requirement to keep a tiger barb happy, but anything larger is always appreciated. Setting up a larger aquarium for them will allow them to fade into the background and not be the dominating aspect of the fish tank.
Keep in mind that they are shoaling fish so they do best in groups of 6 or more. Anything smaller will cause them to be more aggressive than they already are. If they are in a large enough shoal they usually keep to themselves and do not bother fish of a different species.
It is perfectly fine keeping these fish in temperatures around 76 – 78 degrees Fahrenheit which allows them to be mixed with most other tropical fish. They also do wonderfully in a planted aquarium and are a great addition to one because they like slightly acidic water. Also, having a heavily planted aquarium will help create barriers and hiding places for other fish if the tiger barbs start becoming a little nippy.
These colorful fish are not very picky when it comes to eating! They are perfectly fine eating flake food, pellet food, blood worms, brine shrimp, and other foods that are introduced into the aquarium. They should normally be fed once a day.
Photo by ToT89 on Wikimedia.
Final Thoughts
Although there are quite a few ways to alleviate a tiger barb’s fin-nipping habit still take precautions if you want to add them to a community tank. To reiterate what was said before: Do not add less than 6 tiger barbs into an aquarium, be sure they are fed, and try to load up your aquarium with decorations to provide barriers and hiding spots. Remember, these barbs are used to fighting for dominance, it is in their nature, so add more tiger barbs and let them keep to their species and pick on one another. These fish should do quite well in a semi-aggressive aquarium but can be problematic in a peaceful, community tank. They’re wonderful to have because of their vibrant colors and active nature but also can become troublesome for new and even knowledgeable aquarists if precautions aren’t taken.
Photo by Faucon on wikimedia
July 8, 2020
Wonders of Bearded Dragons
Bearded dragons are one of the most iconic reptiles that are kept as pets. For the most part they are pretty easy to take care of, have incredibly docile personalities, and are very fun to handle. These wonderful creatures come from Australia and can live up to about 14 years and this guide has been created to inform potential beardie keepers on how to properly keep a bearded dragon at home.
Enclosure Requirements
A 40 breeder (36″ x 18″ x 18″) is a great size for a beardie until it grows over 12″ long. Once it exceeds a foot in length it is recommended to upgrade its habitat to a 120 gallon enclosure (48″ x 24″ x 24″). This will provide plenty of room for your companion. Bearded dragons should have an area to bask and an area to cool down. The basking location should average between 90 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit throughout the day. On the other hand the cool down location should be around 80 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Reptiles are cold blooded animals so they cannot regulate their body temperature. This requires for them to have warm and cool areas in the enclosure. The lights can be shut off during the night and the temperature can safely decrease to around 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperature and humidity gauges should be present in both warm and cool parts of the enclosure. The humidity should roughly be between 30 and 40 percent. Supplemental heat emitters should be provided if temperatures in the enclosure fall below 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Bearded dragons should receive enough UVA from the basking light but they will require another light fixture that gives off UVB lighting. UVB is needed in order for a bearded dragon to be able to produce Vitamin D. A wire mesh covering for the enclosure is required because UVB does not penetrate through glass. This dual fixture is great for this type of enclosure and it comes included with both a UVB bulb and basking light.
There are different substrate types that can be used for a bearded dragon enclosure. There is sand matting that can be placed at the bottom of the enclosure. It is like a carpet that can be removed and easily cleaned so it is recommended to have two on hand to swap out and clean. It is also the safest type of bottom for the enclosure because it cannot be ingested. There is sand that can be used as substrate as well. Some people are against sand due to possible impaction and accidental ingestion. This substrate helps imitate a bearded dragon’s natural habitat and may help motivate it to burrow. If sand is purchased, it is a great idea to also purchase a scooper to pick up some fresh poop. The sand substrate is recommended to be replaced every at least every three months. Each substrate has its own perks and downfalls. Some are more ascetically pleasing while others have better reliability.
Decorations can include an assortment of rocks, driftwood and anything for them to lounge on. A nice piece of driftwood is great to put under the basking lamp because it does a great job to hold heat which will help keep your beardie warm!
Feeding Time
Bearded dragons do not really require a water dish to be present in their enclosure. They acquire all of their fluids from food. Their diet will primarily consist of live food such as: crickets and meal worms, vegetables, and very sparsely fed fruit. Some people shy away from keeping bearded dragons because they do not want to drive to acquire crickets or they just do not like insects in general.
Crickets should be fed everyday and be appropriately sized to fit into the mouth of a bearded dragon. The size of the cricket should not be bigger than the area in between the eyes of your bearded dragon. They should also be dusted with a calcium supplement at least twice a week to ensure your new reptile companion acquires the necessary supplements to help build a strong bone system. An improper enclosure and not enough supplements could lead your animal to become diseased. A common disease that reptiles can acquire the metabolic bone disease. Also, pay attention to how many crickets stay in the enclosure because they can irritate and stress your animal companion if not eaten. Mealworms should only be given to your bearded dragon as a treat.
Bearded dragons should be fed veggies such as kale and broccoli to help give them important nutrients and a more varied diet. Veggies should be fed daily. It is recommended to give youngsters veggies first and then once they eat their veggies to feed them their crickets. Just like little kids, baby bearded dragons prefer not to eat veggies. An assortment of collard greens and mustard greens should be given to your bearded dragon. Do not feed your new pet avocado, rhubarb because it is toxic to the animal and avoid lettuce because it does not provide any nutritional value and can lead to diarrhea.
Fruits can be fed to your bearded dragon very sparsely. More or less once or twice a month as a treat for being a great pet! The main fruits to feed beardies are mango and papaya. Strawberries, peaches, raspberries and watermelon are great to feed occasionally, but stay away from feeding them fruit with a lot of citrus.
Bearded dragon handling
Bearded dragons in general are quite easy to tame. Their very docile nature makes them quite a good pet for younger children or anyone who is new to keeping a reptile. They’re a wonderful introductory pet. The little ones can be squirmy, especially to a new keeper but with training and patience they will become like a dog with scales. I have heard many stories of bearded dragon keepers keeping their pets on their chest while sitting on the couch watching TV, or letting the bearded dragon cling onto their shirt while walking around the house. I have seen them nip but it doesn’t hurt and it usually happens when they think they’re getting fed and they mistaken your finger for lunch. Otherwise, they’re a very mellow animal.
Final Thoughts
With proper care and husbandry, bearded dragons can be a great pet for kids and adults alike. They’re very docile and usually just hang around. With proper training and a great diet they can be wonderful companions to anyone. Acquiring and feeding them live crickets is a turn off but other than that they’re a sweet reptilian pet!
July 7, 2020
Setting Up a Simple Freshwater Aquarium
This guide will help brand-new aquarists set up their first freshwater aquarium. This article is relevant for aquariums that are 10 – 30 gallons in size. Aquariums come in all shapes and sizes, with different decorations, plants, filtration systems, and more. This will be a very basic setup guide to help new fish keepers get started. We will cover the steps needed for the actual setup and equipment that can be used for the aquarium.
Equipment Needed
To begin, the main equipment needed to keep an aquatic system running are the glass enclosure, heater, filter, and light. These are must-haves, especially if you are just starting. An air pump adds more oxygen but it should not be necessary for this type of setup because the filter will provide enough oxygen for fish to thrive.
- A submersible heater, like the Aqueon Pro Series Heater, is an excellent option for heating your aquarium because it is made by a very popular brand and is built incredibly well. If you’re not interested in the Aqueon Pro Series Heater, check out some of the Best Submersible Heaters for Freshwater and saltwater Aquariums.
- A hang-on-the-back filter, such as the Aquaclear Series (power filter) is also a great choice for a filtration system because it allows for chemical, mechanical, and biological filtration. You can check out other Hang-on-back Filters by following the link.
- LED lights, such as the NICREW ClassLED Aquarium Lights are a good budget light that will open the door for aquatic plants in the future. They provide great lighting, usually last years, and don’t use too much electricity. Make sure the size of the LED light matches the length of your fish tank.
Decorating & Jump Starting Your Aquarium
Having a nice gravel bed is a great way to make your fish tank pop! I prefer dark gravel, like this one on Amazon, because that will make the colors of the fish tank stand out more. For first-time aquarists, I usually recommend black aquarium gravel. Just remember to rinse the gravel before putting it into your fish tank. Do not use soap, just water. Adding 1 lb. of gravel for every gallon of water will create a nice deep gravel bed, adding a nice look to an aquarium. However, it’s not necessary to add that much.
Purchasing decorations is a great idea! There are many different types of decorations such as plastic plants, driftwood, pirate ships, and so on. If you enjoy Halloween, take a look at some Halloween-inspired aquarium decorations. The types of decorations are limitless. I recommend Easy to Care for Live Plants and driftwood to give a natural look, but to each their own.
A few other things needed for a new aquarium are an API Freshwater Master Test Kit, water conditioner, gravel vacuum, net, and fish food (flake food and pellets), and glass cleaner (sponge or magnetic).
Setup Process
The setup process is the fun part of it all. Once you have all your tools and equipment, it’s time to finally put together your new aquarium. I will continue by discussing aquarium placement and decoration recommendations below.
Aquarium Placement
Once everything is purchased and ready to go it is time to start setting up the aquarium. Find a location in the house away from windows and air/heating vents. Windows provide more sunlight than needed which will cause algal blooms to occur and air/heating vents may cause temperature fluctuations in the aquarium which is not desirable.
Adding Gravel & Water
Gravel and decorations should be rinsed before placing into the enclosure. Once that is done begin by gently putting the gravel at the bottom of the aquarium. Place the water into a bucket and add water conditioner to remove chlorine from it. Usually, 1 drop of water conditioner is added per gallon of water but it may vary so double-check the instructions on the bottle you are using. The water temperature does not matter so much right now but try to eyeball the temperature to be around 74° – 78° Fahrenheit. Fish will not be added yet so an exact temperature isn’t necessary. Repeat these steps until the aquarium is roughly 50 – 75% full and begin adding the decorations.
Placing Decorations, Equipment & Final Touches
Push the base of the decorations to the bottom of the gravel bed. This will give it a solid foundation and will help prevent it from moving when cleaning the enclosure. Place the heater and set the temperature to around 76 -78 degrees Fahrenheit. Place the filter in its proper location. Continue to fill up the aquarium to about 90% and test to see if the filter runs. I usually recommend letting the aquarium run for about 12 – 24 hours just to make sure all the equipment runs properly and to ensure there are no leaks. Before adding fish, read up on the Nitrogen Cycle, and the highly recommended fishless cycle.
Purpose of API Freshwater Master Test Kit
I will explain the reasoning behind purchasing the other items for your aquarium. The API Freshwater Test Kit is important. The aquarium will go through the nitrogen cycle. The cycle will help create a safe environment for fish and invertebrates. The cycle begins with a spike of ammonia (from waste). The ammonia will convert to nitrites after a week or two. You will use the test kit to follow along. Visible signs of nitrites will appear. After 5-6 weeks, the nitrites should convert to nitrates. When using the test kit, the ideal spot to be in is to test for 0 ammonia and nitrites and have just a hint of nitrates. The nitrogen cycle normally lasts 6 weeks but the process can be sped up to about two weeks by using a bacteria starter.
Use of Water Conditioner
A water conditioner is useful to remove the chlorine from the water before adding it to the aquarium. Large amounts of chlorine are not good for fish or invertebrates so removing them is a bonus. Some people allow their water to sit in a bucket for 24 hours before adding it to their fish tank but to be safe the water conditioner is the way to go!
Supplies For Aquarium Maintenance
The gravel vacuum will be a must-have when doing maintenance on your aquarium. After creating a siphon, the gravel vacuum will allow water to flow down the tube and into an external bucket. The flow is slow enough to help collect food particles and fish waste but it should not suck up the gravel that was recommended earlier in the article. Using a gravel vacuum makes water changes a breeze.
The net and food are pretty self-explanatory. The net is to make adding the fish into the aquarium easier and the food of course is to feed the fish.
Lastly, the glass cleaner will be very useful for cleaning the glass! Algae will form on the glass over time so having an aquarium-safe sponge is beneficial.
Final Notes
Aquarium building can be fun while still keeping it simple. Once experience levels increase the hobby can branch out to far reaches. Starting with an easy-to-care-for 10-gallon aquarium creates a good foundation for what could be a lifelong hobby in the future.
July 2, 2020
Neon Tetras – The Schooling Fish
Neon Tetras are probably one of the most well-known freshwater fish in the hobby. Their vibrant colors pop and stand out from the green background of a planted aquarium. They’re straightforward to acquire and on the cheaper end regarding cost. They’re gorgeous little fish that love to be in schools. This article will provide general information for Neon Tetras.
Requirements
Neon tetras are small and stay that way. They max out at a size of around 1.25″. They are perfectly comfortable in an aquarium of 10 or more gallons. Having a large school for them is a requirement. They do not do well alone. A minimum of six neon tetras are recommended but even more, are preferred! They are not picky eaters, but small food must be considered that will fit into their mouths. They will happily eat micro pellets, flake food, or bloodworms. They can live in waters with a temperature between 68° and 78° Fahrenheit but do best at temperatures between 76° and 78° Fahrenheit. These fish are very peaceful and will not bother other fish in an aquarium. Having a well-established aquarium will help these little aquatic animals thrive!
Due to their smaller size and docile personality, these fish should be kept with other peaceful fish. It is not recommended at all to keep them with larger Cichlids, predatory fish, or aggressive fish. If they are, they will become a quick meal for the larger fish or be beaten up and pushed around by the aggressive fish. Other peaceful and smaller fish are the best neighbors for Neon Tetras.
Photo by Tan Meng Yoe on wikimedia commons
More Information
After working at a pet store for many years I noticed that many people would like Neon Tetras to be the first fish in their aquarium. From experience, this is usually a death sentence for this fish. Neon tetras are not hardy at all. They’re not expensive so it’s an attractive choice for a first fish. Many hobbyists use the first fish in the aquarium to jump-start their nitrogen cycle.
To quickly sum it up, a new aquarium cycles through three stages. An ammonia stage, a nitrite stage, and ends at the nitrate stage. Fish produce ammonia through their waste and it gets converted to nitrates by bacteria. At low levels, nitrates are less toxic to fish than ammonia and nitrites. The nitrogen cycle transitions through each stage which is very hard on neon tetras. Once, the aquarium runs through this cycle it is safer to introduce the neon tetras. There is plenty of fish that do much better through the cycle such as a smaller species of danio, red phantom tetra, Serpae Tetra, and many others. It is preferred to use a hardy fish for the nitrogen cycle.
Final Thoughts
Having a school of Neon Tetras weaving in-between plants, driftwood, and other decorations is a wonderful sight. They’re peaceful and easy to care for once in an established aquarium. Mixing them with other peaceful animals is wonderful and they will do well with shrimp and snails. If you’re looking for other blue colored fish for your fish tank, check out 11 Blue Freshwater Fish for Your Aquarium.
Photo by H. Krisp on wikimedia commons
June 29, 2020
Yellow Tangs For an Aquarium
Yellow tangs are a fairly common fish in the saltwater hobby. They fall under the category of surgeonfish due to their very sharp scalpel-like appendage right before their tail. They use this to fight other tangs or in self-defense against predators. Their vibrant yellow coloring makes them pop in any home aquarium. They’re very intelligent fish with a large assortment of personalities.
As herbivorous fish, yellow tangs spend their day grazing algae and seaweed in the wild. In the aquarium, there is normally not enough algae growing to sustain their grazing diet. As owners, it is necessary to feed and give the tang enough grazing material (algae sheets) to help keep it full and happy. This fish will happily feed on meaty foods as well but the bulk of its diet should be herbivorous. They can grow up to roughly 8″ and are very active swimmers. It is not recommended to keep them in an aquarium smaller than 100 gallons, and it is preferred to keep only one in an aquarium unless they are introduced together. They do become territorial and will fight other tangs. Their aggression will not only be between themselves and other yellow tangs but other tangs too. They will fight other fish that are very similar in shape and color to themselves. It is especially not recommended to mix yellow tangs with purple tangs or sailfin tangs due to their similarities in shape.
These gorgeous fish should only be added to an aquarium once it is well established. They should not be one of the first fish introduced into the aquarium. They are very prone to getting diseases such as marine ich so having a stable and well-established aquarium will help prevent them from getting infections.
Yellow tangs are reef safe and they should not bother coral. If algae are present in the aquarium, they may graze on the algae growing around the coral. Unfortunately, they will be more than happy to mow down any macro algae put into the aquarium so keep that in mind.
Yellow tangs are very wonderful fish to have in a home aquarium. They’re vibrant and stand out very well from the background and are always the center of attention for visitors. They’re highly intelligent and a pleasure to observe. The one in my aquarium always acts tough but runs into the rocks once my hand is in the aquarium for coral spot feeding. Learn about more saltwater fish by checking out other articles and care guides by following this link.
June 28, 2020
Ocellaris Clownfish for beginners
Clownfish Information
The ocellaris clownfish is one of the first fish saltwater hobbyists add to their aquarium. They’re hardy, easy to care for, and popular beyond belief but sometimes go by another name (Nemo). They can become territorial so if a hand is in the aquarium, don’t be surprised to feel a pinching bite from a clown.
There is a pretty common fact that some may not know. Clownfish are born male and the dominant one in the pair becomes the female. Another interesting bit of info is that female clowns become larger than males. If a female passes away, the male will pair with another female or find another male and will fight for dominance to become a female. If/when a male turns into a female it cannot transform back into a male. Only one pair of clowns is recommended for a fish tank. Any more and there will most likely be quite a bit of fighting which stresses the fish out or can cause harm to them. If one of the fish passes away, it is best to replace it with one of a similar size. For example, try not to introduce a 4″ clown with a 1.5″ clown and hope they pair.
Many new hobbyists begin their saltwater journey with the common ocellaris clown. Once experience is gained and saltwater aquarium knowledge grows, people find interest in the rarer species of clownfish. Such as snowflake clowns or black ocellaris. There are many other variants of ocellaris clowns to choose from. This guide was made to provide a complete care guide to keeping clownfish.
Aquarium Requirements
Ocellaris Clownfish can grow to a size of roughly three inches. It’s not recommended to keep clowns in aquariums smaller than 20 gallons, due to their length at adulthood. Clownfish have very similar water parameters to most other saltwater fish which are:
- Temperatures between 72 and 78 degrees Fahrenheit
- dKH levels between 8 and 12
- pH between 8.0 and 8.4
- Salinity levels between 1.020 and 1.025 sg.
Providing these water parameters is key to keeping a clown happy but keeping them stable is also important for their long-term health.
It is beneficial to provide live rock in the aquarium so your fish has places to hide when stressed. An anemone is a fantastic addition but it is not mandatory to have for your clownfish.
Anemone Hosting
Be aware that many tank-raised clownfish will not automatically go into an anemone and host In it. Sometimes it is quite tricky to get them to do so. There are a few things to try to get them to host in an anemone.
First, if the fish is already in the aquarium, place a video or image of clownfish swimming in anemones against the glass. This may give them the urge to try and do the same. They may see other clowns safely swimming through anemones and instinctively be drawn to them.
Second, if the anemone is in an established aquarium, and new clownfish are being introduced, try to put the netted clownfish into a translucent tube. Make sure the tube is wide enough so the clowns can safely travel through it. Also, be sure the end of the tube is almost touching the anemone. When the fish make their way down, it will force them to come into contact with the anemone which may cause them to host in it.

Third, give it time. Sometimes clownfish will naturally make it’s way to an anemone and host it. I have had them a host in many other things such as frogspawns, torch coral, and green star polyps. Clowns are oddballs but they figure it out eventually.

Lastly, it’s ok if the clowns don’t host in an anemone. It is remarkable to see them spend all day rubbing against the anemone’s tentacles, feeding it, and just doing their thing but if they are being very stubborn and won’t host, it is not worth stressing them out more than necessary.
Clownfish Food & Diet
They should readily eat any type of food offered such as flakes, pellets, or frozen food. Providing different types of food will assist in giving your fish a well-rounded diet! If for some reason your clownfish does not want to eat, try mixing your food with garlic or garlic extract. You can read about feeding garlic to your fish here.
Tank Mates
Clownfish do well with most saltwater fish but do not keep them with fish that will try to eat them such as eels, groupers, lionfish, and most other predatory fish. Instead, try to keep clownfish with more peaceful fish such as:
- Dwarf Angelfish
- Tang
- Gobies
- Chromis
- Wrasse
Most types of marine fish are compatible with clowns. Clownfish are also completely reef safe and will not bother coral or invertebrates! They may occasionally attempt to host euphyllia or other coral with tentacles.
Breeding Clownfish
If a bonded pair finds an aquarium suitable there is a chance of them laying eggs and producing offspring. Eggs are commonly eaten by other animals in the aquarium without human intervention. Clownfish will often breed in a display tank with no additional work required.
Building clownfish breeding tanks are pretty straightforward. Many breeders use a 10-gallon aquarium for a pair of clowns. Connect the breeding tank to a sump for filtration. The aquarium itself should be bare bottom with only a clay pot (3 – 5 inches) or pieces of clay tile. The sump should have a heater, protein skimmer, and live rock.
Keeping water parameters pristine is very important. Also, feed your clownfish a variety of foods at least twice a day to increase their body size to prepare them for breeding. Temperatures can sit around 78 to 80 degrees to motivate your clownfish to breed.
Egg Care
It will take roughly 6 to 8 days for your eggs to hatch! Before eggs hatch prepare live food to give them something to eat right after hatching. Feed live rotifers when eggs first hatch then baby brine shrimp after a few days of growth. Setting up a hatching tank will make it easier to care for your eggs and fry. Clownfish eggs will always hatch at night and require total darkness.
Set up your hatch tank with a heater, sponge filter, and air stone. Seed your sponge in the breeding tank a few weeks before putting it into the hatching tank. Also, be certain that the aquarium, heater, and air stone are cleaned well with hot water before setting up.
Place the aquarium in a dark location and completely cover all sides with black construction paper or anything that will block out the light. Cover the light that’s on the heater with black electrical tape. Provide a light but be sure to have it incredibly dim because too bright light can kill newly hatched fry.
Hatch Day
On hatch day, remove the eggs from the breeding tank and place them into the hatching tank. Before that, make sure the heater’s temperature is the same as the breeding tank. Keep your hatch tank light schedule the same as the breeding tank schedule.
Place the eggs into the breeding tank and adjust the air stone so that air is flowing over the eggs. This is crucial because eggs need movement to stay alive. A few hours after the lights go out, the eggs should hatch. A very dim flashlight can be used to check.
Begin feeding live rotifers many times a day and check the water parameters to make sure that ammonia, nitrates, and phosphates do not spike. Fry are very sensitive to water parameter changes so keeping things low and stable is important!
Final Notes
Clowns are very fun fish with unique personalities. They’re great as introductory fish into saltwater aquariums but also amazing animal companions in the long term. They can get territorial but the little nibbles are worth dealing with. If you’re looking to learn about other saltwater fish, check out the growing list of care guides for saltwater fish.
June 26, 2020
Betta Fish – Complete Care Guide
Betta Fish Information
Betta fish, also known as the Siamese Fighting Fish, has been in the fish-keeping hobby for quite some time. They are colorful, beautiful, but highly territorial fish with outstanding personalities. They’re a great introductory fish for children and adults due to their ease of keeping. They do not require too much space, have gorgeous colors, and have wonderful personalities. They also have a nice long life of 3 – 5 years when living under healthy conditions. There are also so many more varieties of betta fish compared to 10-15 years ago. You can find betta fish for sale both online and in person. They are very common fish sold at pet stores.
Betta fish may seem dull at a pet store but are very charismatic fish! They will recognize their owner and often swim up to the glass to greet you. With practice, they can even learn tricks. They’re wonderful animals and we will continue this article by going over different requirements for keeping betta fish.
Aquarium Requirements
There are a few misconceptions about a betta fish aquarium. People think bettas do perfectly fine living in a cup of water. That is not the case. Although they are fairly easy to care for they should be kept in something larger than a cup! Our recommendation to keep a betta happy and healthy is to keep it in an aquarium or fish bowl of 5 gallons or more. This will provide enough swimming space. I always recommend more space if you can provide it. Betta fish accessories and decorations can be used to provide your betta fish with a refuge when stressed.
Betta fish do best with a filtration system in the fish tank. Usually, an aquarium with a hang on the back filter should suffice. If they are being kept in a round bowl, look into providing a sponge filter for their filtration. Check out 7 Best Hang On the Back Power Filters for Freshwater Aquariums to get an idea of great hang on the back filters for your betta.
This beautiful fish will thrive with a large range of water parameters:
- Temperature: 75° – 86° F
- KH: 0 – 25
- pH: 6.0 – 8.0
Bettas are very versatile fish that thrive in a nice range of water parameters. It is important to provide good filtration and a heater to try and keep parameters as stable as possible. Stability in water is very important to keep fish alive. Help keep nitrates and phosphates down by adding live plants! There are many great starter plants for new fish keepers such as Anubias, crypts, and java fern. Check out 3 Easy To Care for Aquatic Plants for more information.
Betta Food & Diet
Betta fish aren’t very picky with food. Most importantly, monitor how much you feed your fish to prevent overfeeding. Extra food that falls to the bottom of your aquarium will break down and may cause spikes in nitrates and phosphates. Betta fish will happily eat flake food, pellet food, and an occasional treat of bloodworms and/or brine shrimp. Watching a betta eat their food is always the best part of keeping them.
Tank Mates for a Betta Fish
Most people know this but still needs to be mentioned. There should only be one male betta in an aquarium. Males will most likely fight until one dies. From experience, it is not wise to keep male and female bettas in a small enclosure unless they are breeding. On the other hand, although female bettas are not as vibrant and colorful, they should be able to coexist with one another in the same fish tank.
Betta fish should be ok with other peaceful such as tetras, rasboras, and cory cats in aquariums that are 20 gallons or larger. The fish that are kept with bettas should not have flashy colorations. Besides showing aggression towards other bettas and fish that look similar to it. I would also avoid keeping bettas with fish that are known to be fin nippers.
Betta fish and snails should peacefully co-exist in an aquarium. Bettas may try to eat baby snails but larger ones should do well. They will spend their day cleaning algae off decorations, and glass, and munching on leftover food that may fall to the bottom of the aquarium. These invertebrates are perfect for aquariums with limited space.
Keeping Betta fish and shrimp is a little risky. Bettas should do fine with larger shrimp, such as the Amano Shrimp. However, small shrimp such as Neocaridina may become a meal for your betta. It all comes down to the temperament of your betta.
Betta Breeding
Breeding betta fish in a freshwater aquarium is very possible but will still require quite a bit of work. First, you must set up two aquariums that will house the male in one and the female in the other. Give your fish time to settle into their new home for a few months. Once preparations to breed begin, a breeding tank should be set up with a divider installed to begin introducing the male and female. The fish tanks should be cycled before introducing the breeding pair.
The breeding tank should be roughly 80 degrees Fahrenheit with a sponge filter installed and a handful of places for the bettas to hide. It is not recommended to add gravel because the eggs may be lost in the substrate.
Feed foods that are very nutritious for a week or so before adding them into the breeding tank. The best foods are live bloodworms but you may be able to get away with frozen foods such as bloodworms and brine shrimp. At the same time start raising food for the baby bettas if breeding is successful. Live baby brine shrimp is recommended to feed betta fry.
Prepping for the Act
After that, it’s time to introduce the male and female into the breeding tank. Keep the divider in place and place the male on one side and the female on the other. Observe their interactions for a few days to make sure they are interested in one another. The male will show off his colorations and fins while the female will sort of look like she is bowing down. If there is interest, the male should begin building a bubble nest that may take a couple of days to complete.
Turn off the filtration and remove the divider separating the two fish. Once together, the male will most likely show a little completely normal aggression. Observe their behavior and make sure the male isn’t seriously hurting the female. Once settled, they will swim under the nest and move very close to each other. The female will begin releasing eggs which will drop to the bottom of the aquarium. The male will pick the eggs from the bottom of the fish tank and place them into the bubbles.
Once the female stops releasing eggs, it is recommended to remove her because the male will most likely begin attacking her. The male will care for the eggs until they hatch. Do not turn the filtration on because the betta babies will most likely get sucked into it. Once the fry begins swimming around in the fish tank, the male can be removed and it’s ok to begin feeding fry baby brine shrimp. It is recommended to feed the fry twice a day.
Filtration can be turned back on around two weeks after the fry hatch but restrict the flow of the filter if possible. Once males begin fighting, separate the fighters and place each one in its own aquarium.
Final Notes
Overall, bettas are a great starter fish for anyone who is looking to dip their toes into the aquarium-keeping hobby. They are fairly easy to maintain and can live a nice long life and create a bond with their keeper. Their variety of shapes and sizes add to their already remarkable personalities! They have attitude but are great fish. Take a look at our article on setting up a very straightforward freshwater aquarium here.
June 24, 2020
The Vastness of Aquatic Enclosures!
Aquarium Hobby at a Glance
There are many different types of aquarium-like enclosures a person can have in their home. They range in all sorts of sizes and levels of difficulty but they are all unique in their own way. From micro enclosures like jarrariums to enormous saltwater aquariums and ponds, there is a niche for everyone! We will broadly talk about many different enclosures for aquatic animals and the level of difficulty of maintaining these enclosures. We will also talk about basic designs and variety in setups.
Aquatic Jarrariums
One of the easiest and probably cheapest enclosures for aquatic critters is what is called a jarrarium. A jarrarium can be very simple but also very complex. There are two main types of jarrarium, open or closed. One requires the lid to remain open for oxygen to exchange with water, allowing you to feed the inhabitants, clean the glass, and change the water if it becomes overgrown with algae. The closed jarrarium is filled with inhabitants and sealed in hopes that it will become a self-sustaining system. If built correctly closed systems can be self-sustaining for a few years.
Eco-Sphere
The most important and expensive item needed for these types of setups is good glass containers that can hold water. For the most barebone jarrarium, a glass container is needed but the only additional material needed is a scoop of water and substrate from your local pond or lake. These water bodies usually are fully loaded with tiny critters such as dragonfly nymphs and snails. This type of jarrarium is called an eco-sphere. Once the water is scooped out, it’ll be quite murky in appearance, but give the loose substrate time to settle at the bottom of the container and it should clear up. Most people do not add any critters into an eco-sphere but instead observe what type of wildlife comes out of the substrate. Eco-spheres help give an insight into many different critters that are in a person’s local water systems. Many of these eco-spheres are short-lived but a great educational piece for kids and adults.
Open Jarrarium
A regular jarrarium usually consists of a soil part, a substrate part, and then the decor that is placed on top. This type of jarrarium usually takes a bit more planning. The use of live plants and mosses is almost a necessity to help intake nutrients in the water, help prevent algal blooms, and provide oxygen for the animals within. Also, live plants are far more beautiful than their plastic counterparts (in my opinion). The livestock is pretty limited for jarrariums. It is usually limited to shrimp, snails, and possibly a betta fish if the jar is large enough. Shrimp come in many gorgeous colors, varieties, and sizes but on the other hand, be careful with snails because some can infest your newly built jarrarium. The jarrarium placement is very important. Changing room temperatures can harm the critters in their enclosure. Most aquatic animals prefer stable water parameters, such as stable temperatures, otherwise, they can be stressed which can lead to death. The amount of light is also a factor to think about. Too much direct sunlight will cause algal blooms and also raise water temperatures and too little will cause your plants to wither away and die. Consider using an artificial light source such as a CFL light above the jarrarium.
In my opinion, jarrariums are a very fun, easy, and cheap way to get into the world of aquarium keeping. The cost could be as little as just needing to purchase a glass container, but it can still become a very diverse and unique ecosystem. Some jarrariums look like works of art and are gorgeous pieces of decor in a person’s home or office.
Freshwater
Next along the lines is freshwater keeping. There are hundreds of different types of freshwater systems a person can put together and it can get a little overwhelming to think about. Different critters require different pH levels, water temperatures, and so on. Also, thinking about live plants will determine the species of fish you can keep. In my opinion, the most important factor to determine the type of fish that can be kept together is the size of the aquarium, and once the size is determined, you can get into deciding what species of fish will be comfortable in that size of an enclosure. I have been in this hobby for ages and worked in the industry. It is terrible seeing fish brought into the store that has damaged or misshapen bodies because they were forced to live in an aquarium that was too small for them.
From experience, a fish won’t stop growing because of the size of the aquarium. The fish’s growth will be stunted and it will cause its overall health to decline. Anyway, once the aquarium size is chosen the next step is to decide on the fish and decor. To start, many choose the simple route of plastic plants and rocky decor which is perfectly fine, but others will decide on getting more in-depth and setting up an aquarium with live plants and mosses. Putting live plants into an aquarium opens up a new can of worms and potentially increases in difficulty of keeping the aquarium running successfully.
For ease and simplicity, many fish keepers begin their freshwater journey with fake plants, decor, substrate, hang on the back filter, and a simple LED light. This is the standard aquarium and the easiest route that can be taken. Once interest in the hobby continues, things can branch into more unique niches. Instead of a hang-on-the-back filter, maybe use a canister filter or no filter at all! Instead of a regular old light, a person can try using more intense lights that will give the ability to sustain plant life in the aquarium. The unique alterations that can be made are limitless but we will not be getting into the elaborate details in this article.
Paludariums
Paludariums are a little different from a standard aquarium. A paludarium has both a land mass and a water body inside of a glass box. This opens up many doors for hobbyists because now animals such as semi-terrestrial crabs, frogs, or other critters can be added into an enclosure. This type of setup requires a little more knowledge and work to put together. There is quite a bit of planning that must be done before creating a paludarium.
Unfortunately, the limited size of the paludariums does not allow for species mixing. For example, mixing fiddler crabs with fire-belly toads. There is a great chance they may become territorial in such a small space, see one another as potential food, or just compete for food within the enclosure. This could lead to stressful situations for the animals and possibly put them in dangerous situations.
There are many things to consider when setting up a paludarium such as: What animal will you be keeping? Do you want water filtration? Do you want a waterfall setup? How deep do you want the water body? How much landmass? What plants do you want to keep? What kind of fish? The questions go on and on, but I am trying to get your mind thinking of some of the considerations that need to be taken for a paludarium.
Setting up and keeping a paludarium running is more difficult than setting up a freshwater aquarium. It takes far more planning to get the design right and deciding what terrestrial and aquatic animals to put it can be a challenge.
Terrarium/Vivarium
Many people use these terms interchangeably but there is a difference between the two. A terrarium is designed to primarily raise plants and a vivarium is used to house an animal. A terrarium can have animals but it can just be a glass enclosure filled with unique and exotic plants. On the other hand, a vivarium is designed to house and recreate an animal’s habitat. Common animals that are placed in vivariums are Dart frogs, geckos, and frogs. Vivariums and terrariums do not have a water body to house fish and other aquatic animals but a vivarium may have a water dish for the critters to drink from. They can be microhabitats or enormous enclosures that fill a whole room’s wall. Terrariums and vivariums are easier to set up and maintain than a paludarium but are a little harder to keep than a freshwater aquarium.
Saltwater
There is a lot of intimidation for aquarists that are thinking of transitioning into keeping saltwater aquariums. I would not set up a saltwater aquarium as a beginner hobbyist. I would gain knowledge about a freshwater aquariums, dip my toes in live plants, and research saltwater aquarium setups and keeping. Once all that experience and knowledge is gained, only then would I consider setting up a saltwater aquarium. Keeping a saltwater aquarium is not that hard. Keeping it well is where the challenge is and the cost of setup and maintaining it is what scares many away. Try freshwater and if you enjoy fish keeping consider setting up a saltwater aquarium.
The two primary niches of keeping saltwater aquariums are reef tanks or fish only. Many who set up reef aquariums are doing it to end up growing coral in their aquarium. There are many critters in the saltwater hobby that are not compatible with reef aquariums. For example, pufferfish wholeheartedly love devouring hermits and snails that would normally be found in a reef. Parrot fish will graze down your stony coral with ease. There are starfish and urchins that will also destroy a reef system. These are just a few examples of incompatibilities between animals. Decide what fish you would like in your aquarium and that will determine whether a reef tank is good for you.
Fish Only Aquarium Setup
Fish-only aquariums will not have corals and may or may not do well with crustaceans. Predatory aquariums are usually why hobbyists do not build a reef aquariums. Common critters that are put into fish only systems are angelfish, lionfish, eels, pufferfish, parrotfish, wrasses, stingrays, and many more. This type of setup will need a large filter because of the dietary needs of most of the animals. A sump system is recommended with a very good protein skimmer. Usually predatory aquariums and fish only setups are large (125+ gallons). This is because many of your predatory fish get very large.
Reef Aquarium Setup
Reef aquariums are quite different. They need good lights for corals, they will have crustaceans, and they can be very small or very big. I would still recommend a sump system with a protein skimmer for reefs but I would also look into setting up a refugium in your sump for additional filtration. Larger systems are easier to maintain but there is quite a fondness for nano reefs as well.
There are many different types of coral which broaden the spectrum even more. SPS corals need pristine water conditions so are usually kept in an SPS reef aquarium, while other corals like zoas and leathers do need specific parameters and can be put into a mixed reef or a species-specific aquarium of their own.
There are hundreds of different reef-compatible fish and crustaceans. I will not be going into the details of this because there are so many. Think of the type of fish you would like and research what size fish tank it requires and whether it is reef safe. Also, check the temperament of the fish. Many are very peaceful but others will get territorial. These are the main parameters for these fish.
Saltwater aquariums will easily cost an aquarists hundreds to thousands of dollars to set up. Reef systems are especially costly due to the lighting needs and the addition of quite a bit of live rock. That is why making sure this hobby is for you is important before walking down this path. Saltwater aquariums are for hobbyists who know a thing or two about aquariums and understand how water systems work.
Ponds
Ponds are not as common in the hobby as the others. Many people do not have a yard large enough for a pond. Regardless, they are a great place to relax. The primary fish kept in a pond is a koi fish. They are very similar to goldfish but are usually longer and grow larger. Their colors are magnificent! Other animals that may naturally come around ponds are frogs and turtles.
Ponds also can have different plant matter growing in them. Lillies and floating water lettuce are two that come to mind that is quite commonly found in home ponds. They are a nice addition and provide cover for your fish from predators such as raccoons and herons. Also adding a little bit of green color never hurt.
There are many things to consider when setting up a pond. They can get quite expensive. Picking a location is important. More sunlight will lead to more algae growth in your pond but also too much shade may cause other plants from flourishing inside. During the initial setup, choosing a pond liner is very important. A durable liner may cost more at first but will hopefully prevent leaks from happening which will save you money and stress in the long run. A waterfall feature will add great aeration to the pond but a pond pump costs a lot of money! Think about other aerating fixtures to get oxygen into your system.
The following is more dependent on where you live. In the United States, the Midwest goes through four seasons. Pumps need to be shut off for the winter, koi need to be either taken inside or fattened up for the winter, springtime will lead to pond cleaning, and so on. The pond needs to be deep enough for fish to be kept in there through winter. These are obstacles that need to be overcome in the Midwest but it’s not as big of a problem in warm states like Florida or Arizona.
Ponds are wonderful! They are a great place just to cool down and enjoy nature in your backyard but they are quite difficult to maintain and can be costly. The chance of losing a fish to predators is unfortunate but it’s a risk that is taken by pond keepers due to its beauty! Quite a bit of research and preparation should be conducted before setting up a pond!
June 24, 2020
Goldfish – Complete Care Guide
Goldfish Information
Carnival season always brings an influx of goldfish into the house. They’re a hot prize; as a kid, I have fallen victim to bringing one home. Not to say there is anything wrong with goldfish, but the care was not what I expected. Many believe a goldfish will do fine in any old fish bowl. Humans have done this for decades, but it’s not good for the goldfish and will cause headaches over time. Goldfish are messy and create lots of waste. They are also vibrant orange with great personalities and a thrill to keep as pets.
To start, goldfish do not have a stomach to store food. What does not get digested pretty much comes out of the body as waste. This can cause problems in a small enclosure such as a fish bowl. The smaller the body of water the more prone it is to parameter changes, especially in a bowl that most likely does not have a filter. A pooping goldfish will increase the levels of ammonia, phosphates, nitrates, and other unwanted chemicals in a small enclosure.
Goldfish can get fairly large and the idea that a fish will only grow to the size of its enclosure is just a myth. The truth is, a fish’s growth will be stunted, leading to stress, possible bodily deformities, and a shortened life span. A goldfish can grow larger than 12″ (30.48 cm).
Goldfish Fish Tank Requirements
When it is fairly small, starting a goldfish in a 20-gallon aquarium is alright, but be mindful that it will grow, and upgrading the aquarium will be necessary, eventually. Goldfish should have a good filtration system such as a canister filter but a larger hang-on-the-back filter may suffice. If you’re in the market for a hang-on-the-back filter check out 7 Best Hang On the Back Power Filters for Freshwater Aquariums. Luckily goldfish are perfectly happy at room temperature so a heater is likely, not necessary to keep them thriving. The water parameters needed for goldfish are:
- Water Temperature 65°-75° F
- KH: 4-20
- pH: 6.5- 7.5
Goldfish Food & Diet
Goldfish are a species of carp and are omnivores that will try to eat just about anything that fits into their mouths. They also have the potential of eating plants in an aquarium. There are a few plant species that should survive being in an aquarium with goldfish, such as java fern due to its bitter-tasting leaves. Check out some easy-to-care-for plants, which will likely be fine with goldfish. Some goldfish will still do their best to destroy or uproot live plants in their enclosure. It’s great if you find plants that do well with goldfish, but if you cannot, plastic plants should suffice. They also love to spend a part of their day sifting through the gravel looking for leftover food or algae that may be building up down there. Lastly, goldfish should easily accept pellet and flake food.
Tank Mates for Goldfish
Due to their aquarium requirements, slow movements, and ability to inhale many small fish, goldfish are rarely recommended to be kept with anything besides goldfish or koi. Besides eating smaller fish or getting picked on by more aggressive fish, goldfish also prefer being in cooler water, unlike many other tropical fish species. Koi are an exception because they both have similar aquarium requirements. You can easily find goldfish for sale online or in a pet store.
Breeding Goldfish
Goldfish can be a little harder to breed compared to fish such as livebearers. They need specific water parameters and an excellent diet before breeding. To help the goldfish begin breeding, gradually change its diet from pellet or flake food to a more meaty diet with brine shrimp and bloodworms. This mimics the start of spring which is their mating season.
The next step is dependent on already existing water temperatures but the fish tank needs to gradually increase in water temperature. The end goal is to reach a water temperature between 68 and 74 degrees Fahrenheit. A gradual increase is important because quickly swinging temperatures can be dangerous for fish.
To identify a female goldfish, look at her overall shape which should be smaller and rounder than males. Also, a female’s pectoral fins should be smaller and rounder than males. A male’s pectoral fins should normally be longer and pointier.
Once mated, the female will most likely lay her eggs on something solid such as a rock or decoration. Do your best to provide different types of hard surfaces so your female goldfish has many options for where to lay her eggs.
Final Notes
Overall, goldfish are immensely hardy fish with great personalities. There are quite a few people that enjoy keeping them as pets as well as breeding them with other goldfish. They come in many different shapes and colors so there may be a goldfish out there for anyone! Take a look at ATParium, you can find guides and more information on fish, fish tanks, paludariums, and more!
June 23, 2020