Keeping live plants can be a new and interesting challenge for aquarists with any type of experience. For some, live plants are incredibly challenging to keep alive, while others with a green thumb, can keep them all thriving. There are plants available on the market for any experience level. If you have tried and given up on keeping live plants, consider trying again. This article will dive in and discuss some of the benefits of keeping aquatic plants in your aquarium.
Before we continue, let’s give a quick rundown of live plants in an aquarium. There are many different plant species to choose from in this hobby. Most, if not all will aid in keeping your aquarium healthy and beautiful. Not all plants are the same, some are incredibly easy to grow, while others need a little more knowledge. If you are new to plant keeping, check out this guide that will discuss plant species that are more beginner friendly. If you would like to dip your toes into more “expert” plants check out this article that lists a few plants that can be a challenge. Keeping live plants is exciting whether you are new or a veteran in this continuously evolving hobby.
1. Live Plants & Fish Health
Overall, growing live plants in an aquarium will help keep your fish healthier. Plants kept in an aquarium are a nice little food source for your fish, snails, shrimp and more. Also, in the wild, many fish take refuge within incredible masses of live plants. If something startles your fish they will more than likely dart to the nearest patch of wisteria or crypts that are growing in your fish tank.
The other benefit of keeping plants is that they take in carbon dioxide and release oxygen into the water throughout the day. For beginners, providing water movement (usually through filtration) is still a must because plants “breathe” at night. They will take in oxygen at night and release carbon dioxide. Usually, plants produce enough oxygen throughout the day to sustain the animals in the aquarium at night. If the aquarium is not well planted there is a possibility of suffocating your fish without additional water movement.
2. Keeping Your Water Parameters in Check
A well planted aquarium will most definitely help keep your aquarium’s water parameters in line. Fish food, fish poop and decaying plant matter will create nitrates and ammonia in your fish tank. Plants will help remove ammonia and nitrates from the water by absorbing them. Keep in mind, plants cannot do everything, regarding cleaning. It is still completely up to you as an aquarium keeper to guarantee water parameters are in check. Keeping live plants should not give the green light to ease up on aquarium husbandry or to carelessly overfeed the aquarium.
Because of their fantastic ability to absorb ammonia, nitrites and nitrates out of the water, plants are sometimes used to help speed up the nitrogen cycle. Remember, this hobby is all about patience and normally the nitrogen cycle will take about 4 – 6 weeks to complete. However, your live plants may shave off a little off that time.
3. Aesthetically Pleasing
Plastic plants are a nice and easy way to begin your fish keeping journey. A time will most likely come where plastic plants just aren’t enough. You’ll find yourself researching different plant species for an aquarium. This step is always fun and might be intimidating for newer aquarists. It is a great leap into aquarium keeping because although plastic plants are nice looking and easy to care for, nothing compares to live plants.
Keeping living plants in an aquarium will help your create a more natural look in your fish tank. There are only a few things that look nicer than a gorgeous mosaic of driftwood and plants in a aquarium.
Final Notes
There are probably plenty more benefits that live plants give in an aquarium setting. I am covering some of the biggest benefits of keeping them around. If you’re new to fishkeeping check out some easy to grow plants that do not require much fertilization and CO2 supplementation. If you’re an expert at aquarium keeping, you may have already known all of this information. Regardless, it is great review.
The Halloween Crab (Gecarcinus quadratusor) sometimes known as the Purple Moon Crab is a gorgeous, terrestrial crab that can be a unique companion for hobbyists. This crab has vibrant purple claws, beautiful orange legs and a carapace that varies in color but is usually dark with a pattern that looks like a face. Like many crustaceans, they are often kept to be observed and not handled. Keepers of this terrestrial crustacean often focus on having the enclosure as a centerpiece and only having the crab as a resident. You won’t always see this nocturnal crab. Many times, it’ll be hiding in its burrow throughout the day and it is more likely to explore its domain at night.
When fully grown, this terrestrial invertebrate will grow to be around 5 to 6 inches in length when fully grown. Its carapace will be roughly 2 – 2.5 inches once it reaches adulthood. It also has a pretty long lifespan. Under ideal conditions, your Halloween Crab can live between 8 and 10 years. This guide will go over enclosure requirements, food & dietary needs, compatible tank mates and breeding potential.
Enclosure Requirements
This species of crab is fairly easy to care for, but still have a few requirements that need to be filled. A single Purple Moon Crab should not be kept in anything smaller than 15 gallons. They are incredibly territorial and may fight with other crabs, especially other male Purple Moon Crabs. If you plan to keep more, make sure the enclosure is large enough to accommodate more crabs. This species of crab does better solitarily compared to Vampire Crabs which do well in small communities. Follow this link to get information on Vampire Crab care.
Lighting, Temperature, & Humidity
Because this species of crab is nocturnal, it only requires a heat lamp to keep the enclosure warm and to provide UVA for the crab. Keep in mind that heat lamps are a fantastic way to warm this crab’s home. The optimal temperature to keep this crab happy is between 75° and 88° Fahrenheit (~24° – 29° Celsius). The Halloween Crab will also require humidity levels to be 80% or higher. An automatic mister or manual misting will most likely be needed daily.
Substrate
The Halloween Moon Crab loves to dig. In the wild, they can dig a burrow several feet underground. That is not very practical in an glass box. It is important to provide at least 6 inches of substrate so this crab can create a burrow. Providing plenty of burrowing space is important because the Halloween Crab can disappear into their burrow for days and maybe even weeks. They will also hide in it when stressed as well as when they are molting. Sand/soil substrate is an excellent choice for this species of crab. I would not recommend digging them up because it can cause a lot of stress.
Watering
Halloween Moon Crabs love getting the best of both worlds. This is why providing them with both freshwater and saltwater pools to dip themselves into is important. The pools only need to be deep enough to moisten the gills of the crab. Although the Purple Moon Crab is an excellent climber, the pools should be easy to enter and exit.
Safety
As stated previously, the Halloween Moon Crab is an excellent climber. It is important to have a lid not only to help increase humidity levels but to also keep your crabs from escaping. These little escape artists can sometimes climb up the silicone of an aquarium or wires to sneak out of its enclosure!
Food & Diet
Halloween Moon Crabs are omnivorous scavengers in the wild. They will usually eat anything they can get their claws on. However, their diet primarily consists of more fibrous material such as leaf litter, detritus, algae and fruit. Your feeding regime should reflect what they eat in the wild. Your Halloween Moon Crab will eat the following:
Vegetables:
Broccoli
Carrot
Clover
Cucumber
Corn
Green Beans
Peas
Lettuce
Pumpkin
Fruits:
Apples
Banana
Blueberry
Coconut
Melon
Peach
Raspberry
Strawberry
Watermelon
This list is not exclusive. They will eat many other types of food offered. This list is to provide you with a good variety of foods that can be offered to your crab. Protein rich foods such as crickets and bloodworms should only be given to your crab as a treat. Lastly, food should not be kept in the crab’s enclosure for more than 24 hours.
Many foods can provide calcium for a Halloween Crab. However, I feel it is almost a requirement to keep cuttlefish bones in the enclosure to provide an extra source of calcium.
Tank Mates
I personally would not keep anything with a Purple Moon Crab. These invertebrates are very territorial and can injure other wildlife with their claws. Their claws can also cause another animal to die from injuries. With a large enough enclosure, one male may be able to live in the same environment with a female or two. However, there will always be a chance of fighting between the two which can lead to serious injury or death.
If the water portion of the enclosure is deep enough, fish, snails, and shrimp can be housed with a Purple Moon Crab. This is possible if you are fine with any of these animals disappearing and potentially becoming a snack for your crab because they are opportunists.
This species of crab loves to “redecorate” its home. If you keep plants in with one, you may have to plant and re-plant ones that have gotten ripped out of the ground.
Breeding
Breeding Halloween Moon Crabs is incredibly difficult. Large enough enclosures, aggression levels and the fact that females go into saltwater to release their eggs makes it incredibly difficult to successfully breed this species of crabs. It’s an interesting challenge but I have never bred this animal, so I have zero insight on the topic.
Final Notes
Halloween Moon Crabs are a gorgeously colored animal that are slowly gaining fame in this hobby. They have unique personalities, and are very fun to observe. If you’re interested in keeping a more hands-off animal, I would recommend this one as a pet if you love crustaceans and owning something incredibly different, while also taking on the challenge of its environmental needs.
Planted aquariums are some of the most beautiful fish tank types in the fishkeeping hobby. Many look like a work of art if setup correctly. There are many different plant species to choose from to populate the aquarium. However, not all plants in an aquarium are the same. Each one has specific needs in order to keep it happy and healthy. This guide will discuss 4 of the more difficult plants that are kept in a planted aquarium.
Dwarf Baby Tears
Dwarf Baby Tears are gorgeous foreground plants that carpet your aquarium’s substrate. They’re a fantastic way to make your planted fish tank full and vibrant with green color. It is also an excellent plant to use for spawning fish because the fish can hide their eggs within the leaves. However, they are a little more difficult to keep alive than other plants such as, Dwarf Hair Grass or Micro Sword. There are a few reasons that Dwarf Baby Tears are difficult to keep successfully in an aquarium.
Lighting
The first and probably most important factor that makes these plants hard to keep alive is lighting. These plants require a higher amount of lighting than many others. Light intensity quickly diminishes in an aquarium the further it has to travel. The amount of light that reaches the bottom of your aquarium is a fraction of what is available at the surface.
Water Parameters
Plants need to have proper water parameters to keep them alive. Most are pretty versatile and will do well in a range of water parameters. Dwarf Baby Tears do well in:
Water Temperatures between 68 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit
KH levels between 0 and 10
pH levels between 5.0 and 7.5
Most plants will suffer in water that is to alkaline or water that is too hard. Keeping your KH and pH levels down is really important. Certain substrates and driftwood are used to help lower those levels.
Supplements
Plants like Dwarf Baby Tears will most likely require added supplementation of nutrients. Plants require macronutrients such as: Nitrogen, Phosphorus and potassium to grow. They also require micronutrients like iron, copper and more. Creating a balance of nutrient levels and lighting are very important at keeping this plant alive. Supplements can be acquired usually in liquid or tablet form at many fish store and on online pet stores.
CO2 Supplementation
Dwarf Baby Tears will require CO2 supplementation to help them grow properly. CO2 can be acquired in liquid form or through direct injection (pressurized CO2). Liquid CO2 will become more expensive with larger aquariums and is not always consistent. Direct injection has a larger setup cost but will become cheaper overtime. It is also much better for larger aquariums. Be careful with CO2 because too much can have negative effects on any wildlife residing in the aquarium. It can suffocate the inhabitants of your fish tank!
Glossostigma Plant
The Glossostigma plant is also a very beautiful plant used in the aquarium hobby in foregrounds. Similar to Dwarf Baby Tears, the Glossostigma Plant carpets substrate under proper conditions. The bright green coloring of this plant will make any aquarium pop! Furthermore, this plant is excellent for shrimp tanks and fish tanks where fish breed and lay eggs.
Lighting
Full spectrum lighting is important for this aquatic plant. It should receive high intensity lighting ranging from 5000K – 7000K. Like the Dwarf Baby Tears, Glossostigma need high lights because of how deep they are in the aquarium. The only time where they may do well under moderate lighting is if your aquarium is very shallow. Regardless, that is not always guaranteed.
Water Parameters
Stable water parameters are important for fish but they are also important for plants. Constantly swinging parameters brings unnecessary stress. Glossostigma does well under the following water parameters:
Water temperatures between 72 and 78 degrees Fahrenheit
KH levels between 3 and 8
pH levels between 6.0 and 7.5
This plant has a fairly nice range of water parameters it can reside in. Sadly, incredibly alkaline water will cause this plant to suffer severely. This plant will do well with many different species of tetras and shrimp because their water parameters usually line up well.
Supplements
Just like the Dwarf Baby Tears, Glossostigma will require balance supplementation of Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium. These supplements are commonly found in liquid form or in the form of tablets. Seachem Flourish is commonly used liquid supplement for planted aquariums.
CO2 Supplementation
CO2 supplementation is a must for the Glossostigma Plant. Liquid CO2 supplementation or direct injection (pressurized CO2) are both different ways of supplementing this plant CO2. Seachem’s Flourish Excel can be used for liquid CO2 but for larger aquariums direct injection (pressurized CO2) will be more cost effective and safer.
Madagascar Lace
Madagascar Lace is a rare-ish freshwater plant that is often sought after in the fishkeeping hobby. It has wispy or “lace” like leaves that adds a very unique style to an aquarium. This midground plant is difficult to keep because of its lighting needs, husbandry requirements and supplemental requirements. However, its unique design really makes it a special plant.
Lighting
Just like the other two plant species, the Madagascar Lace requires high lighting in the aquarium. Under great conditions it will flower regularly, so providing it with excellent lighting is a must!
Water Parameters
The Madagascar Lace has more specific water parameters compared to the Dwarf Baby Tears and Glossostigma. It will do well in the following parameters:
Water Temperatures between 72 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit
KH between 3 and 6
pH levels between 6.0 and 7.0
Being a more delicate plant, it is very important to keep water parameters within these ranges and also keeping them stable. Straying away from good water parameters may cause the leaves and bulbs of this plant to melt or deteriorate.
Supplements
Besides regular supplementation, the Madagascar Lace should receive extra supplements of iron. Extra iron is needed to help keep the structure of its leaves. Seachem’s Flourish Iron is commonly used to provide extra iron into the water table for this plant. Other supplements such as Seachem’s Flourish or root tabs should benefit the Madagascar Lace.
CO2 Supplementation
The Madagascar Lace does not require as much CO2 supplementation as the Dwarf Baby Tears & Glossostigma. However, always consider providing CO2 supplementation because every plant can benefit from it. You can supplement the aquarium with Seachem’s Flourish Excel or pressurized CO2. As always, be mindful how much you dose because too much carbon dioxide can suffocate the inhabitants of your aquarium.
Ludwigia Peruensis
Ludwigia Peruensis as a whole is not incredibly hard to keep alive, however it may be a little more challenging to get those vibrant red and green colors. This midground plant is an excellent broadleaved addition to make any aquarium vibrant. This plant is amphibious, which means it will grow fully submersed or partially. I will discuss ways to keep this plant happy and glowing.
Lighting
Probably the biggest deciding factor whether this plant will glow vibrantly is the amount of light it receives. If you want this plant to be more colorful, you will need to provide it with more lighting. Moderate light will help give it some color, but realistically giving it high light is ideal. Ludwigia Peruensis does not do very well under low light conditions.
Water Parameters
Ludwigia Peruensis is quite a versatile plant and does well under a sizeable range of water parameters. To keep this plant growing well it is recommended to keep between the following parameters:
Water temperatures between 72 and 78 degrees Fahrenheit
KH between 3 and 8
pH levels between 6.5 and 7.5
Just like the other plants in this list, keeping Ludwigia Peruensis in hard and alkaline water will most likely cause this plant to whither away and die. There are other plants that are more hardy such as java fern or annubias that may tolerate more intense water parameters but it’s never guaranteed.
Supplements
This species of plant should be given general supplements that contain Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Postassium. Ludwigia Peruensis should also be given a supplement that is rich in iron, such as Seachems’s Flourish Iron. Both of these supplements will aid your plant in showing off those gorgeous and vibrant colors.
CO2 Supplementation
CO2 is not mandatory to keep this plant thriving. However, in order to achieve optimal growth Carbon Dioxide supplementation will be a must. As stated above, liquid supplementation may be adequate but pressurized supplementation is ideal for larger planted aquariums.
Final Notes
There are many different and unique aquatic plants that can be kept in a freshwater aquarium. Some are more tolerable and versatile but in this hobby I know we love to challenge ourselves and try caring for more difficult plant species. That is why I put together this guide, to showcase some of the plants that may be a little more challenging to keep. If these are a little too challenging for you, consider looking at my beginner plant guide.
The Black Ghost Knife fish is a very unique but incredibly interesting fish found in the hobby. Although it is a carnivorous animal, this gorgeous fish is more on the shy side, especially when first introduced into an aquarium. Once acclimated to the fish tank, it can become more active but that is subjective because this fish is nocturnal and is more active at night.
Black Ghost Knives do not really have significant teeth, if any at all, but instead have a beak. They use this beak to grab prey and consume it. This tropical fish is not recommended to be kept by amateur fish keepers because of a few traits they possess.
One very unique trait of the Black Ghost Knife is the way it commonly finds food. It has an organ that is electrically charged. Kind of like a sonar and it uses that to find food in the wild or in a fish tank. Also, they do not have scales and are more prone to becoming infected with disease and illnesses. Under ideal conditions this fish can grow to sizes well over a foot in length (approximately 18 inches). These are a few reasons this fish is not recommended for anyone just starting with fishkeeping. This guide will go into detail on keeping Black Ghost Knife fish.
Aquarium Requirements
Because of its size once it reaches adulthood, the Black Ghost Knife should be kept in an aquarium that is at least 150 gallons. Length in an aquarium is important but really consider the width as well, especially for this fish. It is long and skinny so providing it with a wide aquarium is ideal!
As stated above, this animal is carnivorous. Its diet will consist of protein rich food. As a result, keeping this fish will require a good filtration system to help maintain proper water parameter levels. Luckily, it should not really bother plants in an aquarium and the plants can help a little with maintenance! Regardless, keeping up with water changes will help keep this fish healthy. It does best in water parameters with the following ranges:
Water Temperature: 73 – 82 degrees Fahrenheit
KH 0 – 10
pH 6.5 – 7.0
The Black Ghost Knife fish is a pretty shy fish. It will hide in nooks and crannies within the aquarium for most of the day. I really recommend providing it with many different types of places to hide. Also, providing a lot of shade with plants will keep this fish happy because it prefers lower light. It will most definitely try to hide under driftwood, rocks or even wedge itself in-between plants. Fishkeepers can place an appropriately sized, clear plastic tube into the aquarium to view this fish during the day when it is hiding. Beware of sharp or jagged decorations. This fish is more prone to getting infections from scratches because it lacks scales!
Food & Diet
Being carnivores, you can easily assume the types of food this fish can eat. Foods such as bloodworms, brine shrimp, and flake food should work well for the Black Ghost Knife when it is small. Once it grows, foods such as squid, krill and earthworms are fantastic to feed this animal. Be mindful of the invertebrates you add into your aquarium with this fish around because they may become a snack!
It is not recommended to keep incredibly small fish with Black Ghost Knife fish. Little fish may become a quick meal for this carnivore. On the other hand, overly aggressive fish and fish that nip and bite shouldn’t be kept with Black Ghost Knife fish. This species of Knife fish do best with peaceful fish that are larger than it. Black Ghost Knife fish are compatible with fish such as:
Peaceful Cichlids (Angelfish, Discus, Geophagus)
Cory Cats
Plecos
Clown Loaches
Remember, if it can fit into the Ghost Knife’s mouth it can most certainly become dinner.
I do not recommend keeping two Knife fish together. Whether that’s the Black Ghost Knife or other species. Mostly due to their large size when they’re full grown but they may also become aggressive towards one another. If you’re considering adding two into your fish tank, really make sure the aquarium is large enough.
Breeding
I will not dive into how to breed Black Ghost Knife fish because it is incredibly challenging. The hardest part of breeding is acquiring a mature mated pair. Also, if you’re interested in breeding this fish, know you’ll most likely need a large pond or a very large fish tank.
Final Notes
The Black Ghost Knife is a gorgeous fish and hopefully its unique requirements do not scare you away from keeping it. It is definitely a commitment and your aquarium’s design should revolve around it but its appearance and personality are definitely worth the challenge! If you have personal experiences with this fish or have your own advice, please share it in the comments below!
Aquarium keeping continues to grow and keeps bringing in new hobbyists. There are many different items and tools that can be used to make the hobby easier but there are also many items that are a waste of money. This guide was created to provide information on tools I think are beneficial to making fishkeeping easier. Clicking on the image of an item will take you to the item’s product page.
1. Maxi-Jet
One of my all-time favorite tools to use in my aquarium is the Maxi-Jet 1200. It is a submersible, multi-use water pump that can be used for many different things. I use the Maxi-Jet while conducting water changes on my reef tank.
I remove water from the aquarium with a tube and gravity. However, putting clean water back into the aquarium was always a challenge with only a tube. Now, I connect a 1/2 inch tube to the Maxi-Jet’s outlet, put the pump into a bucket of clean saltwater, place the end of the tube into my sump, and turn on the Maxi-Jet to begin refilling the aquarium.
Make sure your sump does not overflow when refilling the aquarium. Also, make sure the tube does not move and begin flooding around your aquarium. There are many different pumps out there to use for water changes, another one that does not hurt the wallet is the VIVOSUN 480GPH Submersible Pump.
2. Battery Powered Air Pump
If you are moving and are taking your fish with you or live in an area commonly plagued with power outages, a battery-powered air pump, like MAKERELE Mini Aquarium Portable Battery Air Pump, may be a lifesaver. This little piece of machinery will make storms and outages a little less stressful.
Saltwater aquariums are especially prone to damage without water agitation/movement. A saltwater fish tank may potentially get by without water movement for a few hours. However, that is not worth risking and a battery-powered air pump will help prevent you from constantly having to create agitation manually.
Moving long distances with fish is stressful for the keeper and the fish. Anything can happen during travel but providing oxygen for your fish can help make their journey a little less stressful. This air pump is perfect for that!
3. Refractometer
The refractometer is a must-have tool for marine aquariums. They are now very affordable pieces of equipment. Test the salinity levels in your saltwater & brackish water aquarium with the refractometer. This is especially important to monitor in nano aquariums where fluctuations are more extreme.
The refractometer is more accurate and easier to use than the hydrometer. The hydrometer requires much more water to test properly. Also, if the hydrometer is not properly rinsed, salt crystals will build up which can lead to inaccurate readings. With proper calibration and care the refractometer is a tool that can be used for years without issues. It pays for itself in a very short amount of time. You can purchase a refractometer for fishkeeping on Amazon!
4. Hanna Instruments Calcium Checker
Water parameter testing continues to change and evolve as the fish-keeping hobby grows. Calcium in the water may be the reason an aquarium has high levels of water hardness. Also, calcium levels are important for coral growth and fish bones. A great way to accurately test calcium levels is using the Hanna Instruments Marine Calcium Checker.
When used correctly, this little instrument will successfully test your calcium levels with a plus or minus 6% accuracy, when aquarium waters are 77 degrees Fahrenheit (25 degrees Celsius). There are other ways to test calcium levels but the Hanna checker is growing in popularity. It provides a clear reading on a LCD screen. As a result, you don’t have to estimate your calcium level results using other test kits.
5. Scaping and Feeding Tongs
Having sensitive skin is the worst when keeping a saltwater aquarium. Dipping your arm into a deep fish tank to save a frag plug can lead to a day of itching and scratching. Extra long tongs are great for anyone who wants to tinker with their aquarium without having to get their hands too wet. This tool is also excellent when feeding predatory fish such as eels. The fear of getting a good bite from an eel rings in everyone’s head but fear no more with the JBJ Lighting Aquarium Tongs! They can easily grab silversides or other meaty foods.
Final Notes
Some of these tools are must-haves but others just make fish keeping a little bit easier. It may make an annoying task less stressful. But others, like the Hanna calcium checker, may be a new technology that you are interested in trying. Regardless, all of these tools are beneficial in one way or another. If you’re just starting out with saltwater aquariums, check out the Supply List to Setup a 10 gallon Reef Tank!
The 10 gallon aquarium is the starting point for many fish hobbyists. It’s a fish tank that will fit a handful of fish and also visually appealing without breaking the wallet. It’s the perfect size for smaller bedrooms, countertops and large enough where it should not be as challenging as smaller fish tanks. This guide will provide information on equipment and items needed to setup a 10 gallon aquarium. Each image has a link attached which will take you to the product’s sale page.
Aquarium Glass
First, we must start with the 10 gallon aquarium. For this guide, we chose the Aqueon 10 Gallon Aquarium with clear silicone. Aqueon is a great company and makes great fish tanks.
Needing the aquarium is pretty self explanatory, we need it to hold the water and give your future fish a home! This aquarium is 14 x 23.75 x 16.5 inches.
Filtration
Filtration makes aquarium keeping a little bit easier by sucking up extra food and fish waste. There are two different types of filters we recommend for this type of setup. We recommend either using a hang on the back filter or a sponge filter. They both function differently and each have their ups and downs and we will give a little information about both.
The Aquaclear 30 is our preferred filtration system for a small nano aquarium such as the 10 gallon. This hang on the back filter is quite easy to install and it provides mechanical, chemical and biological filtration.
This filter achieves mechanical filtration using water flow and running it through filter pads or filter floss. It also reaches chemical filtration by running water through activated carbon. Lastly, biological filtration is present because beneficial bacteria forms colonies in the filter.. The Aquaclear filter is compact. Also, the majority of its housing is out of the aquarium which leaves more space inside for decorations and swimming space for fish. The flow is adjustable and the Aquaclear 30 is rated up to 30 gallon of water so perfect if you ever decide to upgrade.
The sponge filter has the capability of reaching the mechanical and biological filtration but not the chemical. It is a big sponge and quite a bit of beneficial bacteria will find home in it.
Besides lacking chemical filtration, the only other downside is that an aquarium air pump and air line tubing must be purchased with a sponge filter. The air pump sits out of the aquarium with a tube that goes into the fish tank and gets inserted into the sponge filter.
Whichever is chosen is determined by personal preference. Both sponge filter and HOB filter will aid in keeping your nano tank clean.
Heaters
Our preference for heaters is the Fluval M50. It is rated for fish tanks up to 15 gallons and has an adjustable control dial which is convenient.
This heater is fully submersible, wires and all. The only thing that should not be submerged of course is the outlet plug. It’s a sturdy heater and we personally have had great success in using this one.
It also has a mirrored finish to help blend it to the environment surrounding it.
Lighting
A great budget light for your aquarium is the Finnex Planted+ 24/7 LED Light. This fixture will illuminate your nano aquarium with customizable & controllable green, red, blue, and daylights.
Furthermore, the Finnex light fixture will give you the right amount of light to potentially grow plants in your 10 gallon fish tank. A remote is also included with the light fixture to program your lights to your needs. This light fixture can handle medium to high light demanding plants.
An even bigger budget light fixture is the NICREW ClassicLED aquarium light. The NICREW light does not carry the same bells and whistles as the Finnex fixture but still can pack a punch for the price.
This light fixture has a nice low profile and extendable legs but unfortunately does not have a controller to program the light for your desires. This light fixture should be able to handle medium to high light demanding plants.
Final Notes
Hopefully this guide will provide you enough information to setup the skeleton of your fish tank. There is still much to add such as gravel, decorations and things like fish food and extra filter media. For information on items needed for your fish tank take a look at our setup guide here. The guide will provide a good foothold to starting and setting up your fish tank.
Crested geckos are a great introductory reptile for first time hobbyists. For reptile standards they are quite low maintenance and easy to care for. They are inexpensive for a reptile and also incredibly docile. They can be handled by their keeper but it’s not recommended until a month or two after introduction.
A Crested Gecko can grow to a size between 7 to 9 inches as adults. They have a good chance of losing their tail in captivity but it is completely normal. The tail will not grow back and stay a small nub. The Crested Gecko can live anywhere between 15 to 20 years in captivity if conditions and health are optimal!
Vivarium Requirements
A single Crested Gecko or a pair of adults (1 male, 1 female) can be housed in a 20 gallon tank (18x18x18) but, larger habitats are always preferred. A Crested Gecko will prefer height over length for their enclosure. Its habitat should have a combination of vines, cork bark and standing driftwood to give it something to climb on!
Fake and live plants are excellent to add into a Crested Gecko vivarium. Plants such as:
Pothos
Mother Fern
Nerve Plant
Shingle Plant
Mosses
Are fantastic plants that bring a new life into a vivarium. Be certain that plants chosen are safe for Crested Geckos before purchasing. Also, plants purchased from stores like Walmart or Home Depot need thorough rinsing to remove any pesticides that may be present. Lastly, coco fiber substrate is great for your gecko.
Keep your Crested Gecko in temperatures ranging between 74 and 78 degrees Fahrenheit. They do not require special lighting for their enclosure but keep in mind your live plants will. Use a digital thermometer and hygrometer to ensure the temperature and humidity levels are at the proper levels. Temperatures should be between 74 & 78 degrees Fahrenheit and humidity between 60 and 70%. Mist the vivarium to maintain the proper humidity.
Lastly, a clean water dish should be provided in the vivarium so your gecko always has a source of water. Dehydration is a big problem for geckos especially when they are shedding their skin.
Diet
Crested Geckos eat a mixture of fruit and insects in the wild. Zoo Med Crested Gecko Food will provide a well rounded diet for your gecko. Feed juvenile Crested Geckos everyday and adults three times a week. Crickets & waxworms are excellent treats for your gecko and should be given once a week!
Tank Mates
A vivarium is normally setup to only house Crested Geckos. They do not fair well with other animals because of habitat requirements or territorial disputes. A single Crested Gecko will do fine in a vivarium. A pair of adults should do well in an appropriately sized enclosure. Do not keep more than one male in the same enclosure because they will fight for territory and dominance. Young Crested Geckos will show aggression towards each other so do not keep them in an enclosure together.
Breeding
A pair of Crested Geckos have the possibility of breeding in an vivarium. Crested Geckos normally breed between March & September. Each offspring will need to be kept in its own enclosure. Breeders will sometimes use 6 quart plastic bins from Walmart or Target and modify them with small screens and holes for ventilation.
The offspring’s enclosure should be easily cleaned and easy to break down. Use paper towels and old toilet paper rolls and clean out the enclosure weekly. Feed offspring daily and mist their small enclosure to maintain proper humidity levels. Place the offspring into their own 10+ gallon vivarium once they reach 10 grams in weight.
Give time for the female to rest between breeding seasons by removing the male from the enclosure. This will give the female the opportunity to relax and regain some weight for the next breeding season.
Final Notes
Crested Geckos are one of the easiest and hardiest reptiles to keep in the hobby. They mostly care for themselves but with consistency & practice handling this reptile is a possibility. Lastly, really consider getting a Crested Gecko if you are looking into acquiring a reptile!
Pufferfish are an incredibly unique fish and sometimes called the puppies of the aquatic world. They interact with their keepers and also have unique and curious personalities. The Figure 8 Puffer is a species of puffer that spends its time in brackish waters. Because of the brackish water requirements it is a little tougher to keep happy in captivity. It will most likely feel stressed and may not show its true nature when living in constant freshwater. Figure 8 Puffers are aggressive fish that sometimes even shows aggression to its own species. It will grow to be about 3 inches in length so it is a good size for many fish keepers. Just like all other puffers the Figure 8 has a poison that is dangerous to people when eaten. This article will go over the requirements needed to keep a Figure 8 Pufferfish.
Aquarium Requirements
Due to its size, the Figure 8 Pufferfish should be kept in aquariums that are 30 gallons or larger. Two puffers should do well together in a 30 gallon tank if it is filled with plants and other decorations. This will provide them with a natural environment and to give them places to hide in times of stress. Add an extra 15 gallons of water for each additional pufferfish in the aquarium. Aquariums prepared for Figure 8 Puffers usually start off as freshwater. They are then cycled and decorated with compatible plants (Java Fern, Anubias, Pondweed and Crypts). Lastly, slowly convert the aquarium into brackish water. Use marine salt such as Red Sea Salt Mix and a refractometer to test the salinity level of the brackish aquarium. The Figure 8 Puffer will do best in the following water parameters:
Temperature 75 – 82 degrees Fahrenheit
KH 8 – 15
pH 7.0 – 8.0
Salinity between 1.005 and 1.010 sg.
These water conditions will help provide a natural environment and assist in keeping your puffer healthy.
Food & Diet
Figure 8 Pufferfish are carnivorous animals so they require a very meaty diet. Mysis, brine shrimp, and mollusks will be perfect for them when they are small but will enjoy the addition of krill into their diet. Occasionally earthworms can be fed to your Figure 8 for some variety in diet.
Just like most pufferfish, Figure 8’s teeth grow and continue growing. They require food that will grind their teeth down. Foods with hard shells will be a necessity for your Figure 8. Snails can be purchased and sacrificed to puffers. Some hobbyists go into fish stores and ask to collect the store’s supply of nuisance snails off the glass. Clams on the half shell are great foods given to help grind down the teeth of Figure 8 Pufferfish. Some aquarists suggest scraping off most of the meat from the clam and giving the puffer 10 or 15 minutes to scrape and play with the shell and after the time elapses, feed the meaty remains.
Tank Mates
Due to their aggressive nature and water parameter requirements, Figure 8 Puffer do not do well with many other fish. Under good circumstances, Figure 8 puffers can be kept with more Figure 8s. The aquarium size, amount of decor, and personality of the specific puffer in the aquarium will determine that. Pufferfish are housed with:
Mollies
Bumblebee Gobies
Knight Gobies
On the other hand, Figure 8 Puffers should not be kept with invertebrates or slow moving fish that are intolerant to brackish water. Invertebrates will become lunch and the puffer may pick on fish. They will also succumb to the incompatible brackish waters. Add Nerite Snails into the aquarium as algae eaters only because they tolerate saline water. Unfortunately, they inevitably become lunch.
Breeding
There isn’t too much information on how to breed Figure 8 Puffers. It is mostly by sheer luck that a pair will successfully breed. When breeding occurs, the female will lay her eggs on a flat surface, such as substrate, and the male will fertilize the eggs. Once fertilized the male will guard the eggs until they hatch and become water born. The fry will need to be fed baby brine shrimp and potentially high protein flakes & pellet food that can be crushed into really small pieces.
Final Notes
Figure 8 Puffers are mostly kept in a single species aquarium and still enjoyed! Devoting a whole aquarium to one species may be a turn off for some, but for others its a very rewarding experience. They are very interesting animals and really consider keeping them as pets!
The Blue Spot Jawfish is an incredibly gorgeous fish with a yellow/orange/black body with vibrant blue spots seen throughout. This amazing fish spends most of its time digging burrows and perfecting its home. Growing to be about 3.5 inches in lengh, the Blue Spot Jawfish requires a deep sand bed to keep it comfortable. Also, having a lot of sifting space will help keep this fish satisfied. It can be aggressive towards other jawfish but it normally does not bother other inhabitants in the aquarium. It is a little tougher to keep because it known to jump out of the aquarium and making sure it is being fed isn’t always easy. Many fish keepers are weary about keeping this fish because of the difficulty in keeping it alive.
Aquarium Requirements
The Blue Spot Jawfish doesn’t fare well in anything smaller than a 30 gallon fish tank because of its length when fully grown. It will require a deep sand bed of at least 3 inches but more is preferred. A tightly sealed lid is a must because this species of fish will jump out of your aquarium. The water parameter requirements for the Blue Spot Jawfish are similar to many other marine fish:
Water Temperature 72 – 78 degrees Fahrenheit
pH 8.0 – 8.4
KH 8 – 12
Salinity 1.020 and 1.025 sg.
These water parameters will help keep your fish happy and healthy. The most important thing with water parameters is stability. Swinging water parameters can be detrimental to a fish.
Food & Diet
The Blue Spot Jawfish is a carnivorous fish and its diet should reflect that. Blue Spot Jawfish eat mysis shrimp, brine shrimp and pellet food. We encourage to feed the fish multiple times a day. Blue Spot Jawfish will also sift through sand and consume copeopods that are within the sand.
After introducing a jawfish into the aquarium, I normally siphon food into a coral feeder. Then, place the feeder close to the Blue Spot’s burrow and release food. This guarantees a successful feeding and makes sure the Blue Spot Jawfish is not getting outcompeted for food. After doing this for a week or so and seeing the jawfish successfully eat, I normally stop feeding it with a coral feeder and let it collect food on its own. I normally use mysis shrimp and/or pellet food when feeding.
Tank Mates
The Blue Spot Jawfish is a pretty stand up citizen in the aquarium. This fish is completely reef safe and it will also not normally bother other fish in the aquarium and will do great with fish such as:
Clownfish
Dottybacks
Dwarf Angelfish
Wrasses
Anthias
But it fares well with many other fish. The problems arise when more jawfish or gobies are introduced into the aquarium. This species of jawfish does not like having other jawfish or gobies in its domain. In incredibly large fish tanks they should be able to figure out territories. Regardless, keeping two or more jawfish or a jawfish with a goby is not recommended. The only exception is a mated pair of Blue Spots.
Breeding
Keeping this fish happy and alive is challenging but breeding is even more challenging. There isn’t much information floating around about how to breed this fish but the most challenging part is definitely finding a mated pair.
Final Notes
Although this fish is probably one of the most beautiful ones on the market, the challenge of keeping it alive sometimes outweighs the desire of keeping it in the home aquarium. Take all the pre-cautions before adding this fish into the aquarium. The color patterns and personality are phenomenal and it’s an excellent addition to any saltwater fish tank.
Fiddler Crabs are some of the more common crab species kept in captivity. The males have an incredibly large claw that they use for calling out to females and also for sparring. The female does not have a claw this large but instead has two really small ones. Under the proper conditions, the Fiddler Crab is a pretty hardy invertebrate.
This beautiful invertebrate will grow to be roughly 2 inches in length when it is full size. This crab and many others are interesting to watch when they are searching for food in their habitat. The Fiddler Crab is not too picky when looking for a meal but we will go over that more later in this article.
Aquarium Requirements
Keeping Fiddler Crabs alive and thriving is not incredibly hard. They do not get incredibly large but enjoy living in groups. They should not be kept in anything smaller than a 10-gallon aquarium and it is not recommended to keep more than one male in an enclosure due to the high possibility of aggression between males. In the wild, they spend most of their time in inter-tidal flats or lagoons. Because of this, it is important to provide a land area for the crab because they are not fully aquatic crustaceans.
Mimicking an ocean beach habitat is ideal for this crab. It normally lives in brackish water so providing a little bit of marine salt in its enclosure is ideal. Use a refractometer, like this one from Amazon to check the salinity levels in the water. To maximize the health of your crabs keep a filter, pump, or something similar to move the water around. Also, using aragonite sand to help keep increased pH levels is recommended. The crab will also use this substrate as a calcium supplement!
The Fiddler Crab requires the following water parameters:
Water Temperatures 74°-84° degrees Fahrenheit
KH between 12 and 30
pH: 8.0 & 8.2
Salinity levels between 1.005 and 1.012 sg.
The enclosure should also be full of rocks and other decor to provide places for this crab to climb and hide. Be sure to leave enough space to allow your Fiddler Crab to burrow. Crabs are notorious escape artists so a tight-fit lid is a must-have. The sealed aquarium will also help to keep humidity levels higher.
Food & Diet
Fiddler Crabs are omnivores and are not picky eaters. They will happily eat algae that grow in the aquarium’s waters but will also eat pellets, flakes, bloodworms, and small shrimp! It is important to provide them with a well-rounded diet. I feed mine all sorts of food. I will treat them to small pieces of carrots, apples, lettuce, pellet food, and flake food.
Tank Mates
Finding tank mates for Fiddler Crabs is hard because they enjoy being in brackish water and the design of the enclosure does not usually provide enough water for fish. If your setup has enough water, fish such as platys, mollies, swordtails, and guppies are good choices. They enjoy living in brackish water, unlike many other species. Be mindful that Fiddler Crabs will occasionally try to take a snag at the fish so the fish may become lunch for the crab. Nerite snails should be a fine addition to a brackish water enclosure as well.
Other than that, as stated above, unless the enclosure is incredibly large only one male should be kept with an assortment of females. The males have a higher chance of fighting and possibly injuring/killing each other while sparring for females.
Breeding
Breeding Fidler Crabs is incredibly difficult. They require a deep sand bed so the female can burrow into it. Once mated, the female will stay in the burrow for roughly two weeks with her batch of eggs. Once that is completed she will expel the eggs into the water but it can only be successful if the water is marine water. This will require a higher salinity level. If this is possible the baby crabs need to be fed rotifers and live baby brine shrimp until they are large enough to eat different types of food. I have had a female successfully hold eggs, but nothing ever comes of it because I cannot replicate the requirements needed to get them to hatch.
Final Notes
Fiddler Crabs are an interesting and unique animal that can be kept at home, provided the enclosure is right for them They have beautiful colorations and a very cool shape to them. They’re fairly active and a joy to observe. Unfortunately, they require a very niche habitat that is not suitable for many other animals but if you can provide the correct setup for them, they will be wonderful pets. If you love crabs, but Fiddler Crabs are not for you, check out 9 Unique Terrestrial, Semi-Terrestrial, Brackish & Freshwater Crabs to learn about other types of crabs available!
Banggai Cardinals also known as the Kaudern’s Cardinalfish are fairly common saltwater fish with a very unique body shape and color pattern. These hardy fish are usually some of the first fish purchased for a saltwater aquarium because they are fairly inexpensive and not too finicky. They will grow to be around 3 inches in length when they are fully grown but should be kept alone or in pairs when keeping them in smaller aquariums. This guide will go into detail about the needs of this fish.
Aquarium Requirements
Kaudern’s Cardinalfish do not require an incredible amount of space and a pair (male/female) will do well in saltwater fish tanks that are 30 gallons or larger. They may become aggressive if two males are kept together. It is possible to keep them in small groups when the aquarium is 100 gallons or larger but be mindful of potential aggression. The Banggai Cardinal has similar water parameter requirements to most other saltwater fish which are:
Temperatures (72-78 degrees Fahrenheit)
dKH levels between 8 and 12
salinity levels between 1.020 and 1.025 sg
pH levels between 8.1 and 8.4
Just like most other fish in an aquarium, the Kaudern’s Cardinal prefers having quite a bit of live rock with holes and caves of varying size. This will give the fish spots to hide when it stressed and also a place to go when the lights are off. More hiding spaces will help settle some territorial disputes as well.
Food & Diet
The Banggai Cardinalfish is a carnivore so providing meaty food such as mysis shrimp is a must. There are many other feeding options such as, spirulina brine shrimp, pellet food and flake food. This fish may be a little picky when it comes to feeding on pellets and flakes so pay close attention to what the Banggai Cardinal eats.
Tank Mates
Banggai Cardinals are fairly peaceful and will primarily fight over territories with others of its species or similarly shaped fish like pajama cardinals. They are slow moving fish so sharing a tank with other peaceful fish is the best route to successfully keep this fish. They normally do well with:
Clownfish
Dwarf Angels
Anthias
Basslets
Blennies
Gobies
Tangs
The Kaudern’s Cardinalfish is completely reef safe. It should not bother any coral or invertebrate in the aquarium. Also, like stated earlier, they will do well as a male and female pair in smaller fish tanks but should be fine in small groups when fish tanks become 100 gallons or larger.
Breeding
Banggai Cardinalfish are fairly easy to breed but some work must be done in order to keep the fry alive. To begin, a pair must be found in order to breed successfully. It is hard to find the sex of males and females because they look very similar. When hunting for a pair of cardinals, observe their behavior in the fish tank. In a group, the dominant male will push away any competition and spend a lot of time with one other fish, the female. Keep an eye out for that when looking for a pair.
Once paired, keeping the male and female happy and fed will increase your chances of acquiring babies. Providing an urchin in the aquarium is not mandatory but it is beneficial to giving them the feeling of being in the wild.
The male will hold the babies in his mouth so making sure the male is well fed before holding the brood in his mouth is very important. The male will not eat as it is holding the offspring. The female will be the primary defense for the male when he is in this vulnerable state.
Once the fry leave the male they may spend their time in-between an urchin’s spines. They will most likely perish if there are other fish in the aquarium. Also, it is very important to have live baby brine shrimp ready to feed the offspring once they leave the males mouth. It is important to feed the babies multiple times a day.
Final Notes
Banggai Cardinalfish are very interesting and easy to care for fish. They may not be for everyone but they’re fantastic for anyone who loves their unique shape and color pattern. It is one of the few fish in the saltwater hobby that can quite easily breed in captivity and growing a brood to adulthood is always exciting!
The Coral Banded Shrimp sometimes called the boxing shrimp is a popular crustacean that is kept in saltwater aquariums due to their very interesting body shape and remarkable color patterns. This shrimp is commonly found with red, yellow and white colorations but there are other species that come in different variations of colors such as blue, yellow and gold.
The male is normally smaller than a female at adulthood. When fully grown, The Coral Banded Shrimp will grow to be roughly 3 inches in length excluding its antennae. A few other species coral banded are a hair smaller and are roughly 2 inches in length when full sized. Coral Banded Shrimp can live about 2 to 3 years which allows for plenty of enjoyment for aquarium keepers!
As far as crustaceans go, this shrimp is quite hardy but beware because, like any other invertebrate, it is very sensitive to high nitrate levels and copper.
Aquarium Requirements
A Coral Banded Shrimp should be kept in aquariums that are 30 gallons or larger. For a shrimp, they become quite large and require a bit more space for their unique bodies and antennae. Also, provide many different sized caves this shrimp can enter to keep the Coral Banded Shrimp comfortable.
Just like many other marine fish and crustaceans the Coral Banded Shrimp does best with the following water parameters:
Temperature: 72 – 78 degrees Fahrenheit
dKH between 8 and 12
pH between 8.1 and 8.4
Salinity between 1.023 and 1.025 sg.
Providing these water parameters should help keep your shrimp quite happy. A well fed shrimp and one that is living in proper aquarium water parameters will help its molt and growth.
Food & Diet
The Coral Banded Shrimp is both a scavenger as well as a hunter. This invertebrate is a carnivore and found searching the fish tank for food. It will hunt for tiny bristleworms, copeopods, parasites & dead tissue on fish. They do a great job as exterminators, removing pesky bristleworms so they do not overrun the fish tank.
In the home aquarium, this shrimp will happily accept any food that may come its way. It will eat flake food, pellets and meaty food. It is not a picky eater at all but more of an opportunist.
Tank Mates
These shrimp do quite well with most peaceful saltwater fish. Do not keep Coral Banded Shrimp with invertebrate eating animals and a few other types of creatures such as:
Groupers
Pufferfish
Lionfish
Eels
Triggers
Slow moving fish (mandarins, clown gobies)
Non Reef Safe Wrasses
Other Shrimp
Coral Banded Shrimp are considered to be reef safe but can sometimes nip at coral. Normally if they are fed they shouldn’t bother picking at coral but there is always a slim chance they will. They should also be kept singularly unless a definite pair can be found.
Breeding
Breeding this shrimp is usually quite unsuccessful in an aquarium setting. To increase the possibility of successful breeding, a pair must be found first. Even then it is incredibly difficult or almost impossible to successfully breed them in captivity. Their larvae must be suspended in the water with their food which is hard due to pumps and water circulation propellers.
Final Notes
Coral Banded Shrimp are a interesting creature that can be kept in a home aquarium. They sometimes get a bad reputation for eating fish, shrimp or nipping at coral but regardless should be considered for a reef or peaceful fish tank.
Vampire crabs, sometimes called Purple Vampire Crabs, are vibrant and beautiful invertebrates that are fantastic for a paludarium. They are normally found in varying shades of purple, yellow and black. This semi-terrestrial crab does best surrounded by mosses and plants. The vampire crab spices up and creates a sense of mystery in a paludarium because they may not always be seen. This guide will provide complete care for a vampire crab.
Crab Information
The Vampire Crab will grow to be roughly two inches in length and has a life span of about 2 years. It won’t grow to incredibly large sizes. This is good because less space is needed to keep this social crab happy! They are normally peaceful with their own species but males may spar and fight when it is time to mate. Alleviate aggression by adding one male for every two females. This omnivorous species of crab is an excellent scavenger and will forage throughout the paludarium. It will also hunt from time to time so be mindful when keeping it with fish and shrimp.
This crustacean primarily spends its time on land but will submerge itself in water from time to time. The vampire crab will usually molt while submerged and will often graze on algae while being underwater. Much of this activity may not be seen because the vampire crab is a nocturnal animal!
The vampire crab is a remarkable escape artist. It can climb wires, plants, silicone on aquariums, and much more to reach the top of the aquarium and escape. It is important to keep the paludarium covered to prevent this.
Aquarium Requirements
5 gallons is the minimum tank size for Vampire crabs. Normally, one male and two females can be kept in an enclosure this small. They are social animals so having a single vampire crab isn’t recommended. A half dozen (2 males & 4 females), can be kept in a 10 gallon aquarium. Keeping a ratio of at least 1 male to 2 females is very important to help prevent males from fighting over females.
The paludarium needs a well-fitted glass top to prevent your crabs from escaping. Having an enclosed habitat will also help keep humidity at a relatively high level which is something a vampire crab requires. They do best with humidity levels at 75% or higher.
A Vampire Crab paludarium is best when filled with mosses, plants, and leaf litter. Moss, like this one from Amazon, retains water which will help increase humidity levels as well as provide a habitat for small insects your crab can consume. The plants will provide additional cover and help absorb excess nutrients in the soil. Your crab may also scavenge dead/dying foliage. Leaf litter provides cover for your crab to help keep it feeling safe. The enclosure should also have an 80/20 land to water ratio. The water should have temperatures ranging between 75 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit (24 – 28 degrees Celsius), pH levels between 7.5 and 8.0, and KH levels between 4 and 10 dKH. Consider getting a Freshwater Master Test Kit to test for nitrates, nitrites, pH, and ammonia.
Lighting that is sufficient for live plants will work with vampire crabs. They do not need anything in particular because they are nocturnal. Plants that you can keep with Dart Frogs should be great plants for Vampire Crabs. You should install a sponge filter or submersible filter in a crab tank.
Food & Diet
Vampire Crabs spend much of their time scavenging and foraging for food in the paludarium but, it’s important to provide them with a well-rounded diet. Because they are omnivorous giving them both vegetative and food high in protein is a must.
Besides algae and plant matter in the paludarium, vampire crabs can be fed algae pellets, algae flakes, and vegetables to help provide them with proper nutrition. To help supplement their protein requirements foods such as bloodworms, brine shrimp, live fruit flies, crickets, and protein rich pellets can be given. Be mindful that live fruit flies and crickets can escape and get around your home. Supplement food with reptile safe calcium powder, like Zoo Med Reptile Calcium or place small cuttlebone pieces in the paludarium to provide additional calcium for your crabs.
Tank Mates
Vampire crabs are great with other vampire crabs. They may become territorial and fight with other species of crab such as Red Devil Crabs & Fiddler Crabs. Do not keep them with reptiles and amphibians. The reptile/amphibian will get picked on or the vampire crabs may get eaten. Very small fish and shrimp may also become an appetizing snack for vampire crabs if you have enough water space to house fish.
Fish that are similar in size to the crab should do fine in the same enclosure. Shrimp should be fine overall but may disappear due to their size. A tough shell will keep snails protected from crabs. Vampire crabs will try eating snails if they flip over. Bare in mind that vampire crab are opportunistic hunters and if they get a chance to acquire a meal, they will take it!
Breeding Vampire Crabs
There is not enough information to know how to properly breed vampire crabs. They normally accomplish this on their own if conditions are right in the paludarium. Once a male and female breed the female will carry around between 20 & 80 eggs on her body for roughly a month. Once the eggs hatch the babies go straight to work foraging and independently living in the enclosure.
Take the young vampire crabs out of the enclosure to prevent their parents and other crabs from eating them. Some may survive by hiding within plant matter and between rocks but many may perish to cannibalistic tanks mates.
Vampire Crab Molting
Vampire Crabs will molt roughly once a month. Molting occurs when a crab outgrows its exoskeleton. The crab will essentially “pop” out of its old skeleton and develop a new one. A molting vampire crab is incredibly vulnerable because right after a molt, the skin is becomes incredibly soft and fleshy. It takes time for the skeleton to harden. During this time, you should take care to avoid disturbing your Vampire Crab because the molting process is very stressful. They will likely hide throughout their molt and may not be seen for a few days. Providing plenty of hiding spots will help prevent other crabs from disturbing the molting Vampire Crab.
Final Notes
Vampire Crabs are incredible animals that continue to grow in popularity. They are not incredibly hard to keep and are a great pet for someone who does not need to see them all the time. They will spend a majority of their time independently foraging for food and with proper supplementation and a beautiful paludarium, the vampire crab can thrive in your home! If you are looking for a terrestrial crab species, take a look at the Halloween Moon Crab. Check out more guides on fish, plants, and inverts on atparium.com!
Predatory fish tanks are both fun and rewarding without the hassle of attempting to keep coral alive. Most saltwater fish have vibrant colors with remarkable personalities that will keep you entertained for years! This guide will showcase 5 unique and interesting saltwater fish that may do well in a predatory aquarium.
1. Harlequin Tuskfish
The Harlequin Tusk comes from two different bodies of water. One can be found in the Indian Ocean and the other in Australia. Regardless, it is one of the most beautifully colored fish available to purchase in this hobby. The Australian’s coloration is just a tad more vibrant and pronounced.
This fish will become around 10″ when it is fully sized. It requires an aquarium that is 125 gallons or larger. Provide a lot of rock so it has places to hide and to allow it to set up its territory. It has very similar water parameter needs to most other saltwater fish which are:
Water Temperature between 72 – 78 degrees Fahrenheit
dKH levels between 8 and 12
pH levels between 8.1 and 8.4
salinity levels between 1.020 and 1.025 sg
When first introduced into a fish tank, the Harlequin Tusk may be very shy and hide in rock work. Once it becomes acclimated into the aquarium it will begin to show their true character. Harlequin Tusks are wonderful fish to have in a FOWLR (Fish only with live rock) aquariums with similarly sized fish. They do very well with Large angelfish, tangs, foxfaces, small triggers and larger wrasses. Only one Harlequin Tusk should be kept in an aquarium!
The Harlequin Tusk will not bother coral but invertebrates such as shrimp, snails, crabs, and many others will become lunch. Small fish may also become lunch for this fish due to its carnivorous tastes. Check out the Harlequin Tusk Complete Care Guide for more information on this fish!
2. Porcupine Pufferfish
Have you ever seen a fish with colored eyes? If you haven’t, check out the Porcupine Puffer! This fish is unique because it doesn’t have pelvic fins so its body shape is much different from other fish. It also takes on the characteristics of a curious toddler and playful puppy. The highly curious, intelligent and gorgeous Porcupine Pufferfish is a fantastic predator fish to keep in a FOWLR aquarium.
When it is fully grown it will be roughly one foot in length. It should be housed in a 180 gallon aquarium when it becomes this size with a well running protein skimmer. Its water parameters are nearly identical to the Harlequin Tusk.
Water Temperature between 72 – 78 degrees Fahrenheit
dKH levels between 8 and 12
pH levels between 8.1 and 8.4
salinity levels between 1.020 and 1.025 sg
The Porcupine Puffer does well with many other predators in an aquarium. Similar to the Harlequin Tusk, the Porcupine Pufferfish will do well with large tangs, foxface, large angelfish, triggers, large wrasses and eels! They may nip on tank mates, so be prepared to see round holes in other fish’s fins. I personally would not recommend a pufferfish in a reef tank because crustaceans like shrimp, crabs, clams and snails are their natural prey and they will spend their time foraging for them. The Porcupine Puffers beak constantly grows so they may nip on coral and live rock to try to grind down their beaks.
Food such as snails, crabs, shrimp and clams will help help grind down this fish’s teeth. It will also happily feed on krill, mysis shrimp, and possibly silversides. For more information, check out the Porcupine Puffer Complete Care Guide.
3. Volitan Lionfish
The Volitan Lionfish may seem like a decile and elegant fish but they are incredible predators that will consume just about any fish that will fit into its mouth. Also known as the Turkeyfish, this animal has many very pronounced fins all over its body that gives it a very unique appearance. Its very powerful colorations make it a visual spectacle! First they’re very shy and hide in aquariums but once acclimated, they become more active and swim in the open.
The Volitan Lionfish grows to be over a foot in length and it will require a fish tank that is a minimum of 120 gallons in size with plenty of hiding spots to keep it happy. They have similar water parameter requirements as the Harlequin Tusk and Porcupine Pufferfish with the exception being that they prefer salinity ranging between 1.021 and 1.023.
This species of lionfish becomes incredibly large so finding tank mates that will do well with it may be a bit more challenging. Fish that are at least 75% of the lionfish’s size are recommended. The Volitan Lionfish will try to eat anything and everything that can fit into its mouth. Tangs, butterflyfish, eels, groupers and triggers are all candidates that will usually do well with a lionfish. Unfortunately, most crustaceans become food for a lionfish.
Lionfish can be fed an assortment of live and frozen foods. The goal is to feed your Lionfish frozen food and occasionally feed something live. Many hobbyists feed Volitan Lionfish silversides, frozen squid, uncooked shrimp and pre-made frozen foods found at pet stores.
A lionfish has spines that are quite venomous and are far more painful than a bee sting. The venom is not normally lethal but precaution should be taken especially if you are sensitive to stings from animals. If stung, remove any spines that have broken into your skin, and place the affected body part into hot but tolerable water. Keep your appendage in this water for roughly 30 to 45 minutes. We recommend seeing medical attention for extra precaution.
4. Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasse
The Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasse is not your normal predator. This one does not get insanely large like many others but it is an excellent fish for a predator aquarium. This fish does not have a big appetite, it does not swallow prey whole, but it does enjoy removing parasites off fish!
This fish reaches roughly 5.5 inches in length when full size. It also has a very active personality so should be kept in aquariums that are 90 gallons or larger to provide adequate swimming space. This wrasse’s water parameters are the same as the Porcupine Puffer and Harlequin Tusk. We encourage using a tightly sealed lid because of this fish’s jumping tendency. Unlike the rest of the fish on this list, the Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasse is reef safe!
A big fish tank with large fish are great for the Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasse because it can be a finicky eater at times and only consume what can be found in the fish tank. Its primary diet consists of parasites that attach to fish’s mouths, gills and scales but it can also eat meaty foods such as:
Mysis Shrimp
Brine Shrimp
Small Pellet Food
Flake Food
If your fish is being a finicky eater try feeding with garlic or garlic extract. Be sure to check out this article for information on garlic and feeding fish!
The Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasse will do perfectly well with fish such as tangs, angels, groupers, foxface, eels, triggers and pufferfish! Be careful because the cleaner wrasse may fight with other wrasses and they are a hit or miss with lionfish.
5. Blue Throat Triggerfish
The Blue Throat Trigger is a gorgeous fish that finds a home in many predator tanks. It has a couple of unique features that differ from all the other fish on this list. First, the Blue Throat Trigger has different color patterns depending on whether it is male or female! The male will be a darker color with a blue throat and a female will normally be much lighter in color without the blue coloration. This fish also has the capability to grunt under water which is quite a funny thing to listen for.
The Blue Throat Trigger will grow to around 9 inches in length and requires a minimum of 125 gallons of water. The fish tank should provide quite a bit of live rock so the trigger can hide. Live rock needs to be very large or placed securely because Blue Throat Triggers move them. The water parameters of a Blue Throat Trigger are identical to the Porcupine Puffer, Harlequin Tusk and Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasse.
Like many other triggers, the Blue Throat’s teeth continuously grow and it will require foods that help grind down the teeth. Snails, hard shelled shrimp, and clams are all excellent foods to give your trigger to help grind down its teeth. It can also be fed squid, krill and mysis if it is incredibly small. The Blue Throat is considered to not be 100% reef safe because it will most likely destroy a clean up crew population. Although less common, it has the potential to nip on coral and knock things over when it decides to break rocks and move things around to find prey.
This fish does well with eels, squirrelfish, lionfish, groupers, hawkfish, large angels, tangs and pufferfish. They have incredibly sharp teeth and can provide a nasty bite when threatened but overall they are a fantastic fish to have in a predator aquarium!
Final Notes
There are so many different predatory fish available on the market but these 5 have some unique features. They are all gorgeous and may be fantastic additions to an already established fish tank! If you do not know your fish tanks size but want to figure out the volume of water before adding any of these fish be sure to check out the aquarium volume calculator here!
Snowflake Eels (Echidna nebulosa) otherwise known as Starry Moray or Snowflake Moray Eel, are interesting animals kept in aquariums. They are commonly found in predatory tanks but are occasionally added into reef tanks! This guide will give insight on Snowflake Eel aquarium requirements, feeding, and other information for anyone interested in this fish.
Fish Information
Snowflake Eels are incredibly easy to care for. They are very hardy and an excellent introductory eel for new hobbyists. They are considered semi-aggressive and are nocturnal predators usually hunting and ambushing crustaceans such as shrimp and crabs. In an aquarium, it is common to see them poke their heads out of rocks during feedings. They use two sets of jaws to grab prey and drag it down into their gullet during feeding. Be cautious when keeping this fish in a reef tank because it consumes crustaceans. It may knock corals over since it stays inside and very close to live rock. The Snowflake Eel will be roughly 2 feet (60cm) in length when it is grown in captivity. It is possible for them to be larger in the wild.
Aquarium Requirements
When fully sized, the Snowflake Eel should be kept in fish tanks that are 50 gallons or larger. A well covered top is needed because this fish is known to be one of the best escape artists. Because of its size and temperament, the eel should have quite a bit of live rock with varying hole sizes. This will give it room to move around, hide when threatened, and provide similar habitat it experience in the wild.
Snowflake Eels do best in water temperatures ranging from 72 – 78 degrees Fahrenheit, dKH levels between 8 and 12, pH levels ranging between 8.1 and 8.4 and lastly salinity levels between 1.020 and 1.025 sg. As stated before, they are quite hardy and have a nice range of water parameters they can tolerate.
Food & Diet
Snowflake Eels are carnivorous animals and require a nice range of foods. There is a wide variety of food that it can eat such as:
A Snowflake Eel can also be handfed but caution must be taken because they can give a powerful bite! It is best to start handfeeding when the moray is small to minimize risk of getting bitten or at least to receive a smaller bite. It is a predator so it may mistaken your fingers for a quick snack!
Tank Mates
The Snowflake Moray Eel can be kept with fish that are larger in size and that won’t easily fit into the eel’s mouth. They should do fine with coral, snails, anemones and sea urchins, but not crustaceans such as crabs, lobsters and shrimp. Keep in mind that this species of eel will become quite large so fish that are larger than its mouth at first, may not be in the future.
Eels are commonly kept in larger aquariums with bigger and sometimes more aggressive fish. They are commonly kept with tangs, large angelfish, lionfish, foxface, groupers and large wrasses.
It is possible to keep 2 Snowflake Eels in a marine tank together. The eels should be introduced at the same time and they should also be similar in size. Snowflake Eels are cannibals and if the opportunity to eat a much smaller eel arises, it will do so! I would personally not keep 2 Snowflake Eels in a fish tank together unless it is 150 gallons or larger. They are quite territorial and larger aquariums will give them more room to create their own territory.
Breeding
Breeding Snowflake Eels has not really been conducted in captivity because of their mating rituals, inability to distinguish between male and female, and rarity in acquiring a mating pair.
Final Comments
Snowflake Eels are a fantastic fish for a saltwater aquarium. They all have very unique personalities and are quite active moving within the live rock scaping of your aquarium. Be mindful of the fact that eels are escape artists and if a well sealed lid is not provided there is a high possibility of them jumping out!
Reef aquarium maintenance is going to be a necessity for every build in the hobby. We all know the basic tools that are used but there are others that aren’t as common which may be missed by new hobbyists. This guide will provide information on 5 different types of instruments and gadgets that are highly recommended to use in your reef tank.
Ground Probe
Have you ever dipped your hand or finger into your aquarium and received what feels like a good shock? That could be caused by stray voltage running through your fish tank. The cause of this is usually a defective piece of equipment such as a heater, protein skimmer, circulation pump, return pump and so on. Ideally, the best practice is to search for and remove the equipment that is causing stray voltage in your aquarium. Stray voltage is dangerous to fish, coral, shrimp, as well as you! It is important to remove the problematic piece of equipment as quickly as possible.
The grounding probe will help alleviate the effects of stray voltage in an aquarium. It is a temporary fix until you, the fish keeper, find the source of the problem and replace it. It also provides piece of mind that if there is stray current in the fish tank, it will quickly become grounded by the grounding probe. This tool plugs into a wall outlet or power strip except it only has a grounding prong. The other end of this instrument (probe) gets put into your fish tank. Electrical currents will travel to the probe and out of the fish tank. The shocking feeling should almost immediately go away.
In order to find where the stray voltage is coming from, we will need a multimeter. This equipment detects electrical current. Once we have the multimeter, turn off all of the equipment that is inside of the aquarium and remove the grounding probe. Turn on your equipment one at a time and test to see if there is an electrical current in your fish tank by using the multimeter. Once electrical current is detected, remove whichever equipment is causing it and replace it with a new one. Keep testing the equipment to make sure there aren’t any others that are causing electricity to run through your fish tank. Once that is all completed, plug the grounding probe back into the outlet. The ground probe is a safety feature to prevents damage, stress, and possibly death to fish and other wildlife within your aquarium until you can find the source of the problem.
V2O Aquarium Foods Wide Point Coral Feeder II
There are two common ways to feed the coral in your reef tank, target and broadcast feeding. With target feeding a tool is used such as the V20 Coral Feeder, in order to get very close to the mouth of a coral to ensure it receives food. With broadcast feeding you simply take coral food, mix with water and pour it into your aquarium. Target feeding is far more precise, prevents a lot of food from being wasted, and overall may minimize increased levels of phosphates and nitrates in your aquarium. On the other hand, with broadcast feeding not every coral is guaranteed to acquire food, a lot of food can be wasted, and phosphate/nitrate levels may be more susceptible to spikes because of the unused food that will be broken down.
The V20 Wide Point Coral Feeder is an excellent way to keep your hands dry and still precisely feed your coral to help maximize their growth. When feeding with this tool, it is recommended to turn off circulation pumps before feeding. Once that is done siphon food into this tool and begin feeding your coral. Try not to touch the coral because doing so may cause them to close up. Wait 3-5 minutes after feeding and then turn your circulation pumps back on. It is a very easy to use piece of equipment and great for precision feeding.
Innovative Marine AUQA Gadget AccuDrip Acclimator
There are many fish, coral, and invertebrates that are very finicky and sensitive to changing water parameters. When introducing new livestock into a fish tank, it is very important to properly acclimate the animal before adding it into an aquarium. The Innovative Marine AccuDrip Acclimator is an excellent tool to use to carefully acclimate our delicate friends. New fish will be gradually introduced to your fish tank’s water using this drip acclimator which can prevent or lessen stress levels and lower the risk of diseases arising in your new fish, coral, or invert.
This tool will require a bucket to pour fish, coral, and invertebrates in to begin the acclimation process. For more information and directions on use, follow this link to the AccuDrip Acclimator page.
Hamilton Technology Dual Outlet Programmable Analog Timer
Running your system on a schedule is important to keep your aquarium stable. A timer such as the Hamilton Technology Programmable Timer is a definite way to help accomplish that. The timer can help control lighting schedules so there is no worries on getting home to turn the lights on or off. Timers are also great at completely removing tedious tasks such as turning on light fixtures. The less you have to worry about little things such as lights, the more you can enjoy your fish tank! Many light fixtures have built in timers but for those that don’t this is an excellent alternative. I personally run all of my aquarium, terrarium, and paludarium lights on timers in order to keep a consistent lighting period. I try my best to mimic natural light patterns.
Mag-Float
Keeping your hands out of a fish tank is one of the hardest things to accomplish. I personally love tinkering and working on my aquariums and its hard not to get down and dunk my hands in to save a flipped snail or move some coral around. We produce oils on our skin, get our hands dirty, have soap and/or lotion on our hands, so constantly dipping your hands into your reef isn’t the best thing to do. It is always recommended to wash your hands (without soap) before putting them into your fish tanks but we can never get them 100% clean.
If you can’t resist constantly working on your fish tank there are a few things you can do to help keep your hands out! A mag-float is a very good way to clean your glass or acrylic aquariums without having to dip your hands in water. Be sure to purchase the appropriate sized and type of mag-float for your aquarium. The following list shows many different mag-float options:
For Glass
Mag-Float 30 – Small (Up to 30 gal. & glass thickness of 3/16″)
Mag-Float 125 – Medium (Up to 125 gal. & glass thickness of 3/8″)
Mag-Float 350 – Large (Up to 350 gal. & glass thickness of 5/8″)
Mag-Float 510A – Extra Large (For acrylic thickness b/w 3/4″ – 1 1/4″)
As a side note, always inspect your mag-float or any other glass cleaning tool before and during use. You run the risk of scratching your glass or acrylic if debris is wedged between the glass and glass cleaner. This commonly happens when the mag-float sits in an aquarium for long periods of time without use or when it is being used close to the sand bed. The kicked up sand may get attached and then scratch your glass/acrylic while cleaning.
Final Notes
There are many other tools and equipment that can make fish keeping easier. Hopefully the 5 items listed in this article will help make your fish keeping journey easier, more enjoyable, and safer!
Different aquarium tank sizes are purchasable in stores and online. The larger the aquarium becomes, the thicker the glass needs to be to hold in the aquarium’s pressure. Simultaneously, the weight also increases due to the amount of water inside. This chart provides information on the dimensions, empty weight, and roughly estimated full weight of the most common standard glass aquariums available. Fish tank sizes will determine what species of fish, reptile or, amphibian you’ll be able to keep. If you own a fish tank and do not know its dimensions, check out the Aquarium Volume Calculator which will help show you how many gallons your aquarium is.
Small Aquariums
Small aquariums are quite commonly kept on office desks, countertops, aquarium stands, and many other surfaces. Regardless, furniture weight limitations should always be considered when setting up an aquarium. Small aquariums should not have a problem being kept on the second story of a house because they are not incredibly heavy when full.
The challenge with keeping smaller aquariums, especially for newer hobbyists, is that the aquarium is more prone to swinging water parameters. For example, feeding a little too much food or keeping to many fish that produce a lot of waste can cause nitrates and phosphates to skyrocket which interrupts the aquarium’s balance. It is very important to monitor the water parameters of smaller aquariums closely. The incredibly small 5 gallon aquarium is great for counters and small spaces but will be the hardest to maintain due to its small size. The larger the aquarium is, the more resilient it is to swinging parameters because of the increased volume of water inside.
In fish tanks on this scale, it is normally recommended to also keep only smaller species of fish. Tetras, betta fish, pea puffers and rasboras are a few freshwater fish that can be kept in fish tanks of this size. Also, marine animals such as; gobies, coral, anemones and much more can also thrive in small aquariums. Great amounts of fish keeping experience is recommended before attempting to keep saltwater fish in these nano systems.
Aquarium Size
Dimensions
Empty Weight
Full Weight
5 Gallons
16″x8″x10″
7 lbs
~62 lbs
10 Gallons
20″x10″x12″
11 lbs
~111 lbs
15 Gallons
24″x12″x12″
21 lbs
~170 lbs
15 Gallons (tall)
20″x10″x18″
22 lbs
~170 lbs
20 Gallons
24″x12″x16″
25 lbs
~225 lbs
20 Gallons (long)
30″x12″x12″
25 lbs
~225 lbs
Medium Aquariums
Medium sized aquariums may be a bit harder to place on countertops or tables. They will most likely need a designated aquarium stand in order to be stable. Fish tanks between 29 and 40 gallons are excellent sizes for new hobbyists. They’re not incredibly large which may cost quite a lot of money, they don’t take up an incredible amount of space unlike a 150 gallon aquarium, and swinging water parameters are much smaller as compared to a small 5 gallon aquarium.
The weight of 55 and 65 gallon aquariums should not be taken lightly. Weight should be really considered when placing these larger sized fish tanks in older homes and on upper stories of homes. Most homes should be able to sustain the weight of these fish tanks but it is definitely better to double check rather than have a fish tank crashing through your ceiling.
Fish tanks at this size can house larger freshwater fish, like larger species of gourami, goldfish, and medium sized cichlids. Clownfish, dwarf angels, and wrasses are a few examples of marine fish that would do well in saltwater aquariums at this size.
29 Gallons
“30×12″x18”
40 lbs
~330 lbs
30 Gallons
36″x12″x16″
48 lbs
~350 lbs
40 Gallons
36″x18″x17″
58 lbs
~458 lbs
55 Gallons
48″x12″x21″
78 lbs
~625 lbs
65 Gallons
36″x18″x25″
126 lbs
~772 lbs
Large Aquariums
75 Gallons
“48×18″x21”
140 lbs
~850 lbs
90 Gallons
48″x18″x25″
160 lbs
~1050 lbs
125 Gallons
72″x18″x23″
206 lbs
~1400 lbs
150 Gallons
72″x18″x29″
308 lbs
~1800 lbs
180 Gallons
72″x24″x25″
338 lbs
~1900 lbs
210 Gallons
72″x24″x29″
343 lbs
~2180 lbs
Last, are the large aquariums. It is not recommended to keep these aquariums on the upper story of houses due to their immense weight. Fish tanks that are 125 gallons or larger may also need additional reinforcement on floors in order to be safely placed inside of a home. Water parameters are much easier to control in fish tanks this size and these aquatic enclosures will also allow fish keepers to house fish of many different sizes.
Large freshwater animals such as oscars, peacock cichlids, and eels can be housed in fish tanks this large. There are many more types of marine fish that can be kept in aquariums this large, such as: tangs, rabbitfish, and puffers. There are many more fresh and saltwater creatures that can be considered. I only wanted to name a few to give an idea as to what can happily thrive in fish tanks of this caliber.
Big aquariums unfortunately come with a cost. The glass itself will cost more because of its thickness and size. Also, aquariums of this size will most likely require more lighting, different filtration, and circulation of some sort. All of this will lead to larger water and electric bills. Please take that into consideration when setting up aquariums of this size.
Final Notes
Medium sized aquariums are a great place for new aquarists to dip their toes in the hobby. Even fish tanks that are 20 gallons are a safe bet for starter fish keepers. Anything smaller may get a little more challenging because of swinging water parameters and anything larger may become overwhelming with cost, especially for anyone just starting their first fish tank. At the end of the day, jumping in and enjoying the hobby is all that matters!
The Chili Rasbora (Boraras brigittae), sometimes called the Mosquito Rasbora, is a incredibly small fish, with vibrant colors, that enjoy schooling in large groups. Originally found in Indonesia, it has swept through the aquarium hobby and is loved by many fish keepers. Primarily red and orange in color, this little fish strikingly pops in well planted aquariums. This guide will provide information on Chili Rasbora care and breeding habits.
Fish Information
Chilli Rasbora do not get larger than .8 inches (2 cm). It is the perfect fish for aquariums that are 5 gallons or larger. A school should contain 6 individual fish or more. 6 to 10 Chili Rasbora should do well in a 5 gallon fish tank. Although the Chili Rasbora remains incredibly small, its colorful body and habit of schooling create beautiful movement and liveliness in a densely planted aquarium.
Like many other rasbora species, this one primarily spends its time in the middle and top of the aquarium. It will occasionally swim at the bottom of the fish tank.
Aquarium Requirements
The Chili Rasbora is a tropical fish that does well in a large temperature range. It can survive in water temperatures between 68 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit, but 75 and 78 degrees Fahrenheit is the ideal range where it will thrive. It enjoys KH levels between 3 and 12 dKH and lastly does great in acidic water that has pH levels ranging between 4.0 and 7.0.
This species of fish suffers terribly in new aquariums so only add them into already well established fish tanks. Once introduced and settled, they are quite hardy.
Because of its small size, keep this fish in slow moving waters. They will be thrown around the aquarium when caught in fast moving currents. Providing many live plants and great filtration is ideal for this fish.
Food & Diet
The Chili Rasbora is small and remains small its whole life. It is very important to feed it food that it will be able to fit into its mouth. There are many options to offer this fish to provide it with a varied diet. Flake food can be taken and crushed into powder which makes it small enough for this fish to consume. Micropellets can be fed with little problems because they are designed for tiny fish like Chili Rasbora. Also, feeding daphnia, brine shrimp, and cutting up bloodworms are fantastic options to give this fish a varied diet. Providing many different food options will keep this fish vibrant and healthy.
Tank Mates
Chili Rasbora are easily outcompeted for food. Take pre-caution when choosing tank mates. The Chili Rasbora do exceptionally well with other small and peaceful fish in the aquarium. Do not keep them with larger or more dominate fish such as:
Platys
Mollies
Swordtails
Betta Fish
Angelfish
Large Mouthed Fish (Cichlids, Goldfish)
Keeping Chili Rasbora in larger fish tanks is more than possible. They will thrive with fantastic fish such as:
Tetras (ember, neon, cardinal, green neon)
Rasboras (harlequin, green kubotai)
Endler’s Livebearers
Guppies
Celestial Pearl Danios
Corycats
Dwarf Gouramis
The amount of fish that can be kept in an aquarium are determined by the number of plants in the fish tank, filtration, and physical size of the aquarium. A densely planted aquarium will be able to keep more fish happy over a sparsely planted one. A stronger and better filter will go a long way in allowing you to keep more fish in the enclosure. Larger aquariums aid in keeping water parameters stable when a fish tank is heavily populated. Regardless, do not cram too many fish in a fish tank.
Shrimp and snails should do perfectly fine with Chili Rasboras even in 5 gallon aquariums. In fish tanks this small it is important to closely monitor water parameters because they are more prone to swinging which can be detrimental to both fish and invertebrates.
Breeding
Chili Rasbora will openly breed and produce offspring in aquariums. The males may become a bit more territorial during breeding periods and will also deepen its red and black coloring. After successfully breeding a female will appear rounder than the male and not pregnant females.
Eggs will be laid on plants and decorations and will not be cared for by either parent. The best chance for survival for the fry are in heavily planted aquariums. The plants will provide the much needed cover the fry will need to reach adulthood. The parents are sometimes observed to eat the fry once they hatch from their egg.
Final Comments
The Chili Rasbora is fantastic for aquariums both large and small but fill the micro aquarium niche very well for keepers that do not have the space or money to spend on large aquariums. Their vibrant colors stand out in aquariums so they will always be able to be observed. Check them out if you get a chance!
With all the different and unique freshwater fish to choose from, the red tail shark is sometimes overlooked. Regardless, this fish is remarkably beautiful and highly recommended for fish tanks that will tolerate its lively personality. The black body and red tail are always a sight to see because this color pattern is not very common in fish. The red tail shark has a nice long lifespan of 5 – 6 years.
Aquarium Requirements & Fish Compatibility
The red tail shark will be around 6″ in length when it is full size. Although they do not get incredibly large, a fish tank that is 50 gallons or more is highly recommended when it is fully grown due to its aggressive nature. It should be the only red tail shark in the fish tank because it becomes highly territorial. Having other bottom dwelling fish such as plecos, rainbow sharks, and cichlids is also not recommended due to this fish’s aggression. The red tail shark does well with fish such as:
It is encouraged to provide a lot of places for this fish to hide. The fish tank should be full of decorations, driftwood, rocks, and plants (live or plastic) to help curb the previously mentioned aggression. Adding many decor breaks the line of sight for this fish which can help mellow it out. They love hiding in caves and crevices and will fight for the ability to do so.
The red tail shark does very well in temperatures ranging from 72 to 78 degrees Fahrenheit, KH levels between 10 and 15 and pH levels ranging from 6.5 to 7.5. Due to its aggressive personality the red tail shark’s care level is little more challenging compared to peaceful community fish.
Feeding
The red tail shark is an omnivorous animal so it will consume just about anything offered to it including vegetables such as cucumber and zucchini. Please remember to thoroughly rinse the vegetables before placing them into a fish tank and do not keep the vegetables inside of the aquarium for long periods of time because doing so may cause an increase in phosphate and nitrate levels. Besides vegetables, the red tail shark will go around the aquarium consuming algae that grows on rocks, plants, and glass.
Other foods that are commonly given to red tail sharks are flake food and frozen fish food. The flake food is meant to provide the nutrients a red tail shark would acquire from algae in the wild and the frozen bloodworms will provide the protein required for the red tail shark. Using these will help provide a well rounded diet for your shark. Other fish will also happily consume these foods! They are not limited to just these two types of food. Flake food can be substituted with pellet food and bloodworms can be substituted with brine shrimp or krill. Krill is normally given to larger red tail sharks.
Breeding
Breeding is an incredible challenge for red tail sharks in an aquarium setting. This is mainly because they are intolerable of one another in aquariums at home due to the aquarium’s size limitation and the fish’s territorial personality. Large aquariums may be able to keep more but it is still quite a challenge to get these fish to breed.
The only physical difference between a male shark and a female is that when matured, the female red tail shark will have an larger abdomen compared to the male. Otherwise the male and female sharks are identical.
Final Notes
The red tail shark is a fantastic fish to keep in fish tanks where the other fish swim in the middle to upper parts. Although they are not normally advertised as algae eaters, the red tail shark will remove some algae from aquarium decorations. Adding a few snails to help will be beneficial. Overall, this is a fantastic fish with very unique colors that are great for planted and regular freshwater fish tanks!
Aquariums are a great place to explore the underwater world without needing scuba gear and being able to stay dry. A lot can be learned at an aquarium such as conservation efforts being conducted to help save aquatic habitats and information about fish and where they are originate from. Aquarists can find inspirations for their aquariums at home, jobs to provide professional experience in fish husbandry and animal keeping, and some aquariums provide courses for professional development in the field. In this article, we will go over 5 fantastic aquariums that can be visited in the United States.
Monterey Bay Aquarium
Located in Monterey, California, the Monterey Bay Aquarium sits right on the Pacific Ocean’s doorstep. The main goal of this aquarium is to inspire conservation of our oceans! There are 2.3 million gallons of water here that house roughly 35,000 animals from over 550 different species.
One hot attraction to check out at the Monterey Bay Aquarium is the sea otter exhibit. This exhibit can be viewed above ground and underwater. So sea otters can be observed swimming and playing in the water and also lounging on the surface enjoying the sun’s rays! The sea otters at the Monterey Bay Aquarium are all rescued and without rescue they would have not survived in the wild. If you cannot make your way to see these otters in person, check out the live cam footage of the sea otters at the Monterey Bay Aquarium.
There are many other animals and exhibits to explore at this aquarium. Green sea turtles can be seen swimming in the Open Sea exhibit where they are surrounded by many other marine wildlife. Hammerhead sharks, Tufted Puffins and many other wildlife can also be found inside this exhibit. There are other exhibits that show off kelp forests, coral reefs, wharfs, and the ocean sandy floor!
If you’re in the Monterey Bay area, check out this aquarium and become 1 of over 2 million annual visitors! This is a great aquarium with a lot to offer. Hours and closures are subject to change due to the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic.
Shedd Aquarium
The Shedd Aquarium sits along side Lake Michigan in Chicago, Illinois. It is the second aquarium we will talk about in this article. The Shedd has roughly 5 million gallons of water with about 32,000 animals inhabiting the aquarium. Although it sits nowhere near saltwater, the Shedd Aquarium has a vast collection of saltwater animals including beluga whales, white sided dolphins, stingrays, and much more. The Shedd supports research to help save the critically endangered beluga whale population in Alaska.
One of Shedd Aquarium’s most iconic exhibits is the Caribbean Reef. This enormous 90,000 gallon aquarium is cylindrical in shape and able to be viewed almost completely around. This giant fish tank shows off some wonderful creatures that can be found in the Caribbean such as stingrays, sharks, and angelfish! There is always motion in this aquarium and from time to time a scuba diver can be seen cleaning the enclosure to help visitors enjoy the view.
There are many other animals and exhibits that can be seen at the Shedd Aquarium. The Abbott Oceanarium houses beluga whales, pacific white-sided dolphins, and sea otters. The Wild Reef exhibit is home to many different reef dwelling creatures, lurking sharks swimming in an enormous aquarium, and so much more! Other exhibits such as the Amazon Rising, Ricers, and Oceans can be found very close to the entrance. Follow this link to check out all other exhibits available!
If you’re in Chicago, the Shedd Aquarium, Planetarium, and Field Museum should be visited on the Museum Campus along Lake Michigan. Due to the Covid-19 pandemic hours and closures are expected to change!
Georgia Aquarium
The Georgia Aquarium located in Atlanta Georgia is probably the most iconic and well known aquarium in the United States. Being the largest in the country, this aquarium has over 10 million gallons of fresh and saltwater that holds thousands of animals such as whale sharks, manta rays, hammerhead sharks and so much more! The largest tank in the Georgia Aquarium is roughly 6.3 million US gallons and holds the largest fish in the world!
The whales sharks can be viewed in the Ocean Voyager exhibit. There are over 50 other species of fish that are housed with these giants. This exhibit allows you to walk through a 100 foot tunnel that is completely surrounded by water to fully get immersed. There will be plenty of opportunities to see all the marine fish that reside in this exhibit.
Another fantastic exhibit is the Dolphin Coast, where guests can sit and observe a presentation where dolphins do tricks while trainers educate the crowd with marine facts. Although there are many more exhibits at the Georgia Aquarium the last that will be highlighted is the Tropical Diver exhibit that has roughly 164,000 gallons of water and houses over 200 different coral species.
Check out the Georgia Aquarium website to see other exhibits and animals that can be seen during your visit. Hours and closures may vary due to the Covid-19 pandemic!
National Aquarium
The National Aquarium located in Baltimore, Maryland is a non-profit aquarium that holds over 2.2 million gallons of water and over 20,000 animals residing in these waters. The goal of the National Aquarium is to inspire conservation of the world’s aquatic treasures. The National Aquarium showcases many different types of exhibits that have freshwater, saltwater, and enclosed habitats for wildlife like pythons and birds.
The National Aquarium contains exhibits devoted to the Atlantic bottlenose dolphin. This dolphin exhibit gives visitors the opportunity to observe feeding and training of the animals! The dolphins will hopefully be moved to a 50 million gallon sanctuary in fall 2020. Another wonderful exhibit is the Atlantic Coral Reef. This exhibit is roughly 335,000 US gallons that houses many different species of animal like stingrays, sharks, and groupers.
There are many other exhibits that can be found here, on the National Aquarium website. The Blacktip Reef, Upland Tropical Rain Forest and Australia: Wild Extremes are a few more exhibits guests can visit when visiting this beautiful aquarium. Poison dart frogs, blue-crowned motmot, and various marine fish are a few animals that can be found throughout these exhibits. Openings and hours may vary due to the Covid-19 pandemic so please check the National Aquarium website for more information!
New England Aquarium
The New England Aquarium located in Boston, Massachusetts was originally opened in June 20, 1969. After a few changes and updates, it has become the aquarium you see today. Not having the monstrous 1 million gallon plus aquariums that others have does not stop the New England Aquarium from being remarkably interesting. It still manages to cater to roughly 1.3 million guests that come from all over. Many of these guests come to visit to see a very remarkable fish tank.
The fish tank in question is the Giant Ocean Tank that is a whopping 200,000 gallons. Where it lacks in gallons it surely makes up for in size. This fish tank is 40 feet wide and four-stories tall! You definitely get your exercise in visiting this aquarium. The main attraction in this exhibit is Myrtle the green sea turtle. This sea turtle enjoys life in this aquarium with many other marine fish, eels, and other sea turtles! This fish tank is themed after the Caribbean coral reef. It is a very unique and very tall fish tank and a must-see when visiting Boston.
Other exhibits at this aquarium include a 9,000 gallon Indo-Pacific Coral Reef that reaches far up from the floor to ceiling and houses many different marine fish such as yellow tangs, butterflyfish, foxface, and many more. Another exhibit is the Amazon Rainforest that holds many different tropical fish like the neon tetra, anacondas, and poison dart frogs! The Amazon Rainforest contains over 4,500 gallons of water! If you are interested in learning about other exhibits at this aquarium check out their website here.
The hours of opening and closures may change due to the Covid-19 pandemic so please check the New England Aquarium website for information on the matter.
Final Notes
There are many different aquariums around the United States and the world. This list is only to showcase a few of the many out there. They are all very unique and all have their own twist in the aquarium keeping world. Regardless, it is highly recommended to visit these aquariums!
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