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  • What is the Best Type of Filter for Freshwater Aquariums?

    What is the Best Type of Filter for Freshwater Aquariums?

    Answering the question, What is the best type of filter for freshwater aquariums is incredibly hard to do with zero context. Just like many things in this hobby, it really just depends. Different filtration systems are recommended for different uses. Theoretically, you can use any filter for any situation, but doing so may not be the best option. This article will go into detail on some of the reasons one filter system may be used over another. I will discuss sponge filters, hang-on back filters, internal canister filters, canister filters, and sumps.

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    Sponge Filters

    An aquarium filter sponge, or just a sponge filter, is a very simple filtration system often used in freshwater aquariums. The mechanics behind this filter are pretty straightforward. The sponge is often built around a plastic housing, an airline tube connects to the housing, and the other end of the tube is connected to an air pump.

    The air pump blows air through the tube, which creates water movement through the sponge. This forces water to move through the sponge, and this is how the sponge filter collects debris. I have another article discussing sponge filters; consider taking a peek at Sponge Filter Use, Cleaning and Extra Tips. Sponge filters are the most basic of filtration systems, but they can be incredibly useful in certain situations.

    Best Uses for Aquarium Filter Sponge

    Sponge filters can be incredibly versatile tools in freshwater aquariums, even with their simplicity. Their “best uses” come from the combination of gentle filtration, biological support, and ease of maintenance. I usually recommend them for aquariums that have low bioloads and smaller aquariums. They can be used in larger fish tanks, but I prefer using other filtration types for those. The following are key moments I would recommend using a sponge filter.

    1. Gentle Filtration for Fry and Small Fish

    Sponge filters provide strong biological filtration without creating strong currents that could stress or injure delicate fry, baby shrimp, or sensitive species like guppies, bettas, and hatchetfish. The sponge acts as a soft barrier, preventing tiny fish from being sucked into the filter while still allowing water flow. Unlike many other filtration systems, there is essentially zero chance of fish or shrimp getting sucked into a sponge.

    2. Biological Filtration

    The porous surface of the sponge provides a large area for beneficial bacteria to colonize. These bacteria break down ammonia and nitrites into less harmful nitrates, making sponge filters excellent for supporting the nitrogen cycle. Some hobbyists go so far as to “store” extra filter sponges in other aquarium filters to use for hospital tanks in emergencies. They can also be used to seed new aquariums, which accelerates the nitrogen cycle.

    3. Supplemental Filtration in Breeding or Hospital Tanks

    Sponge filters are ideal in quarantine, hospital, or breeding tanks. They clean the water gently while minimizing the risk of harming fragile or stressed fish. Because they’re air-driven (or can be powered by a gentle pump), they don’t disturb the tank’s setup or create strong currents that could dislodge eggs or fry.

    4. Low-Cost and Energy-Efficient Filtration

    Compared to canister or hang-on-back filters, sponge filters are inexpensive, simple to install, and use minimal energy (often just an air pump). When using a good-quality air pump, they can be incredibly quiet. If you have a silent air pump, the only thing you’ll hear is a quiet hum from the motor and bubbles breaking the surface of the water. For maintenance, simply rinse the sponge in fish tank water during a water change every few weeks to keep it effective.

    Most aquarists consider changing out their sponge only when it starts to disintegrate. I recommend placing a new sponge into the aquarium weeks before removing the old one. This allows bacteria to colonize the new sponge, which will help prevent your aquarium’s nitrogen cycle from crashing.

    There are many different air pumps you can use for your sponge filter. I have used the HITOP Aquarium Air Pump for a handful of fish tanks. I enjoy using this one because it has two air hose outlets that can be used on two fish tanks. Bonus points, it’s in the shape of a shark. Don’t forget to install the check valve to make sure water does not siphon back through the tube.

    Another air pump that I recommend is the Hygger Aquarium Air Pump. It has fantastic reviews. One common thing aquarists really rave about is how quiet it is, which may or may not be rare with air pumps. The last thing you’ll need is the sponge, which the AQUANEAT 3 Pack Aquarium Sponge Filter should work without issue.

    5. Great for Planted Tanks

    Since sponge filters don’t generate strong currents, they’re perfect for planted tanks where you don’t want delicate plants uprooted or CO2-rich water disrupted. They provide excellent water movement near the surface without disturbing the substrate.

    Sponge filters shine in situations that require gentle water flow, strong biological support, and minimal risk to small or delicate fish. They’re best used in fry tanks, shrimp tanks, small community tanks, planted tanks, and quarantine setups. They’re versatile enough to supplement larger filtration systems in bigger aquariums as well.

    Downsides to Consider

    Every filter will have some drawbacks. The sponge filter, although great, is a small and inexpensive piece of equipment, so it has its flaws. The following are negatives to sponge filters.

    • Limited Mechanical Filtration
    • No Chemical Filtration
    • Takes up real estate in the aquarium

    Regardless, the sponge filter has its place in this hobby. The popularity of this filtration system has grown. It is a biological powerhouse and can hold its own in low bioload aquariums.

    Hang on Back Filters

    Next on the list are Hang-on-back (HOB) filters. They are some of the most popular and practical filtration systems in the aquarium hobby because they balance power, convenience, and versatility. Their design makes them easy to install and maintain while providing strong, multi-stage filtration. My favorite part of hang-on back filters is that they allow you to customize filter media and also to provide chemical, biological, and mechanical filtration in your aquarium.

    At the moment, the Seachem Tidal is one of my favorite hang-on-back power filters. It comes packed with an incredible number of features for such a compact design. Seachem Tidal Power Filters are made in different sizes for different needs. I recommend using power filters for aquariums with low to moderate bioloads. If you are housing large waste-producing fish or large bioload aquariums, consider looking into canister filters and sump systems. There are plenty of HOB filter brands; check out 7 Best Hang On the Back Power Filters for Freshwater Aquariums to see a handful of them. The following are a few reasons you might want to use a hang-on back filter for a fish tank.

    1. General Community Aquariums

    HOB filters are ideal for standard freshwater setups with small to medium-sized fish, like guppies, tetras, mollies, and gouramis. They provide efficient mechanical, biological, and chemical filtration, keeping water clear and healthy with minimal maintenance. The beauty of many HOB filters is their customizability. You can change filter media to fit your style, depending on the needs of your fish.

    2. Tanks Requiring Moderate to Strong Flow

    Because they create a steady current and surface agitation, HOB filters are excellent for tanks that benefit from good oxygen exchange and water movement. It’s perfect for active swimmers like danios, barbs, and rainbowfish. The flow also helps prevent stagnant areas where debris can build up. Often, additional water movement and oxygen exchange are not needed if a hang on back filter is running in your aquarium.

    3. Aquariums Where Space Inside the Tank Is Limited

    Since hang-on back filters sit outside the aquarium, they save valuable interior space for fish, plants, or decorations. This is especially useful for smaller aquariums or aquascaped tanks where aesthetics matter. Unlike a sponge filter that can take prime real estate in an aquarium, the only thing you’ll see in your aquarium with a HOB filter is the intake tube.

    4. Tanks Needing Easy Maintenance

    One of the biggest benefits of HOB filters is accessibility. You can change cartridges, rinse sponges, or adjust media without disturbing your aquascape. This makes them fantastic for beginner aquarists or anyone who prefers quick, low-hassle maintenance.

    5. Supplemental Filtration for Larger Tanks

    In larger setups, a HOB filter can serve as a secondary or backup filter to boost circulation and biological filtration alongside a canister or sponge filter. Many aquarists use them to polish the water or run chemical media (like activated carbon or Purigen) to remove discoloration and odors.

    6. Great for Quarantine or Backup Systems

    Because they’re easy to move and install, HOB filters are a good option for temporary or quarantine tanks. Personally, I prefer using sponge filters for quarantine tanks, but to each their own. You can even keep spare sponges and other media in the hang-on back filter media basket for easy removal. The media, such as a sponge, will be seeded with bacteria, making it great to pull for a quarantine or hospital tank.

    Downsides to Consider

    HOB filters are fantastic, and perhaps the most popular filtration system available. They’re not perfect, and there are some downsides to running power filters.

    • Waterfall creates noise
    • Takes up external space
    • Re-Priming issues

    Not all hang on back filters are created the same. Some have motors that sit inside the fish tank. This makes the final point of re-priming issues negligible. However, some filters have external motors. When the power goes out, there is a likely chance that the filter will not re-prime itself (start a siphon). The motor will turn on, but it must be primed again to get water moving. This can cause issues with your motor running dry, overheating, and burning out.

    Internal Canister Filter

    People either love or hate internal canister filters. They have their space in the hobby, and the love for these filters seems to be growing. However, many people lean towards using sponge filters, HOB filters, or external canister filters over these. Once I gave an internal canister filter a shot, I began to really enjoy using them. The following are a handful of reasons why you might want to use an internal canister filter. There are some downsides to using this filter.

    1. Medium-Sized and Medium Stocked Tanks

    Internal canister filters work well for medium aquariums (20–55 gallons) or tanks with a low to moderate bioload. I would personally not use this as the main filter for Mbuna & Peacock aquariums, but I would consider using an internal canister for an aquarium that houses one or a few medium-sized cichlids. An internal canister should have no issue handling the bioload of a pair of angelfish. I would use an internal canister filter as a supplemental form of filtration and for additional water movement, for heavily stocked fish tanks.

    2. Aquariums Without Room for External Filters

    If your tank setup doesn’t allow space behind or under the aquarium (such as wall-mounted tanks, custom stands, or aquariums against a solid wall), internal canisters are perfect. They sit neatly inside the tank, keeping the setup compact and self-contained.

    3. Turtle or Semi-Aquatic Setups

    Because they operate fully underwater, internal canister filters are ideal for turtle tanks, paludariums, or shallow aquariums where a HOB filter might lose suction. They handle waste better than simpler sponge systems. Internal Canisters can be large in size, so very shallow paludariums may not be able to use them.

    4. Strong Biological and Mechanical Filtration in Smaller Tanks

    Internal canisters often feature multiple chambers for different filter media. You can often use sponges, ceramic rings, activated carbon, and other filter media. This provides true multi-stage filtration without requiring an external unit. This makes them excellent for planted or display tanks that need crystal-clear water.

    5. Quieter Filtration Solutions

    Since the entire unit operates underwater, internal canister filters are remarkably quiet, making them ideal for bedrooms, offices, or other spaces where noise is a concern. For some of us, this is a game-changer. I love my aquariums, but I also enjoy sleeping in silence. The sound of flowing water drives me crazy when I am trying to sleep. This is partly why I do not keep aquariums in my bedroom. I may test an internal canister filter in my bedroom one day to see how silent it truly is.

    If you’re in the market for internal canister filters, consider giving the Sicce Shark PRO Internal Aquarium Filter or OASE Bioplus a shot. At the time of this writing, I have a Sicce Shark PRO Nano waiting to be used, and I am incredibly excited to give it a test run.

    Downsides to Consider

    Internal canisters are fun devices, and as stated earlier, have their place in the hobby. They’re quite versatile, but do have their drawbacks. The following are a few that I can name.

    • Visually Intrusive by taking up space inside the fish tank
    • Compact, which makes small spaces for media
    • Mess can be made when pulling the filter out for maintenance

    Some might not be bothered by the small media space, but it’s definitely something to think about when considering fish stocking.

    Canister Filter

    Next, we are moving on to the external canister filter. These filters are powerhouses, often used for heavily stocked aquariums, aquariums with large fish, or enormous fish tanks. They come in a variety of sizes and fill a variety of needs. Canister filters make room for mechanical, biological, and chemical filtration and are fully customizable to your specifications.

    Fluval Canister filters are often considered some of the best canisters, but there are many options to choose from based on budget. The Fluval 207 covers the needs of aquariums up to 45 gallons, and the titan, that is the Fluval FX6 Canister Filter is rated for fish tanks up to 400 gallons. The following are situations where I would recommend using a canister filter.

    1. Large or Heavily Stocked Aquariums

    Canister filters shine in tanks 40 gallons and up, especially with large or messy fish like cichlids, goldfish, or plecos. They can handle high bioloads with ease and maintain stable, clean conditions even in demanding environments. Larger fish produce larger waste. Sometimes this waste cannot be removed with hang on back filters or other filtration systems. That is where the canister filter shines.

    2. Display and Planted Aquariums

    Because the entire unit sits outside the tank, canister filters keep the interior looking clean and uncluttered. Besides the intake and outtake tubes, there is no bulky equipment visible inside an aquarium. They’re perfect for show aquariums or planted tanks where aesthetics matter, and you can customize the media for gentle flow and water clarity.

    3. Tanks Requiring Customizable Filtration

    Canister filters often have multiple media baskets, letting you tailor filtration to your specific needs. Whether that’s to boost biological filtration with ceramic rings, polishing water with fine floss, or removing tannins with activated carbon. This customization makes them an incredibly adaptable option.

    4. Aquariums Needing Strong Circulation

    These filters provide excellent flow and turnover, helping distribute heat and oxygen evenly throughout the tank. This can be crucial for large aquariums or those with dense aquascapes. Dead spots in water can cause detritus and debris to build up, which is not great to have happen.

    5. Quiet and Efficient Long-Term Operation

    Once primed and running, canister filters are extremely quiet. Their sealed design also reduces evaporation and splashing, which helps maintain stable water parameters over time.

    Downsides to Consider

    The size and versatility of canister filters make them incredible for large fish tanks. However, with this comes some drawbacks. I’ve used plenty of canister filters in the past, and the following are flaws to using them.

    • Cleaning can be time-consuming, as the unit must be disconnected and opened for maintenance
    • Can be bulky, requiring cabinet space below or beside the aquarium
    • If not maintained, flow can decrease over time as debris clogs the media
    • Improper setup (like kinked hoses or air leaks) can cause performance issues
    • More expensive upfront

    Canister filters are ideal for large or heavily stocked tanks, high-end planted aquariums, and situations where water clarity and stability are critical. While they require more effort to maintain, their performance, quiet operation, and flexibility make them one of the best filtration systems available for serious hobbyists.

    Sump System

    A sump is essentially a secondary tank, usually located below the main aquarium, that houses filtration equipment, media, and sometimes additional gear like heaters, skimmers, or probes. Water from the display tank flows down into the sump (via an overflow system), gets filtered through multiple stages, and is then pumped back up into the main tank. This setup not only provides exceptional filtration capacity but also improves water stability and gives aquariums a clean, equipment-free look.

    If you’re in the market for a sump system, but don’t want to break the bank on a pre-built unit. Consider purchasing an adjustable sump baffle kit. These kits are made to fit different aquarium sizes, and are often quite cheaper than purchasing a pre-built sump. Leave room for a return pump and access to plumbing when sizing out each stage of the sump system.

    1. Large or High-Bioload Aquariums

    Sumps are ideal for large tanks (75+ gallons) or those with heavy bioloads, such as cichlid tanks, discus setups, or marine systems. They dramatically increase total water volume, which helps dilute waste and stabilize parameters. This is something smaller filters can’t match.

    2. Advanced Freshwater and Saltwater Displays

    Because all the filtration and heating equipment can be stored out of sight in the sump, the main tank looks clean and natural. This makes sump systems the top choice for planted aquascapes, reef tanks, and show tanks, where aesthetics matter as much as performance.

    3. Custom and Modular Filtration Needs

    Sumps are highly customizable. You can include filter socks, sponge stages, bio-media chambers, reactors, or even refugiums for live plants and beneficial bacteria. This modular design lets you fine-tune your filtration for any setup.

    4. Improved Water Stability and Oxygenation

    Because sump systems increase total water volume and surface agitation, they make temperature and chemistry changes more gradual and help maintain excellent oxygen exchange. This is particularly valuable for sensitive species like discus.

    5. Quiet, Hidden Operation

    When properly designed, sump systems are very quiet and eliminate the need for bulky equipment in the display tank. Heaters, probes, and even CO₂ diffusers can all live in the sump, keeping the main tank uncluttered.

    Downsides to Consider

    • More complex to set up than standard filters. Requires plumbing, an overflow system, and a return pump
    • Higher upfront cost, especially if built custom or professionally installed.
    • More space is required, as a sump usually sits under the tank in a stand or cabinet
    • If not properly designed, flooding can occur during power outages or overflows
    • Maintenance can involve cleaning filter socks, managing pumps, and occasionally refilling evaporated water

    Sump systems excel in large or heavily stocked tanks and allow near-endless customization of filtration and equipment. While they require more setup, space, and maintenance than simpler filters, their performance and expandability make them the gold standard for advanced freshwater systems.

    Final Notes

    The best filter is the one that is properly sized and maintained for your specific aquarium ecosystem. There is no single “perfect” device; rather, a spectrum of tools designed to meet different needs. The Sponge Filter is ideal for breeding and fry tanks where gentle flow is a necessity. The Hang-on-Back (HOB) Filter offers the best balance of simplicity, customizable media, and easy maintenance for small to mid-sized tanks. For large, heavily stocked, or complex aquascapes where maximizing filtration volume and minimizing visual clutter are key, the powerful Canister Filter is the superior choice.

    Always remember that a filter’s efficiency is only as good as its biological media, and no filter can replace the necessity of consistent, partial water changes. Choose a filter system that is easy for you to maintain, and you will set your tank up for long-term health and success.

  • What to Feed Dwarf Angelfish

    What to Feed Dwarf Angelfish

    In the wild, dwarf angelfish consume a variety of foods, which include algae, corals, invertebrates, sponges, and much more. This brings up the question, “What should we feed dwarf angelfish in captivity?” Luckily, this hobby has come a long way, and there is a variety of food to provide your angelfish with a varied diet. This article will discuss six different foods I recommend you provide for your dwarf angelfish.

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    1. Mysis Shrimp

    First on the list is Mysis Shrimp. Most saltwater hobbyists likely already feed their fish this food, so let’s just get it off the list. I personally prefer feeding my fish frozen Mysis Shrimp compared to freeze-dried, but that’s just my preference. Each option has its pros and cons. Many aquarists suggest Piscine Energetics (PE) Mysis Shrimp, but most of us have Hikari Frozen Mysis Shrimp more readily available at pet stores. I usually grab the Hikari brand because it is so easy to find at the store. Unlike standard brine shrimp, mysis shrimp provide essential fatty acids, amino acids, and vitamins that strengthen the immune system.

    2. Hikari Bio-Pure Frozen Mega-Marine Angel

    Hikari Mega Marine Angel is food specifically tailored for the diet of an angelfish. Angelfish consume sponges in the wild, and the main ingredient in this food is sponge. This is a great option to provide your fish with a more well-rounded diet. Dwarf angelfish are not the only fish that will benefit from this food. Other omnivores will happily consume Mega Marine Angel. This food also has a combination of sea algae, sea urchin, sea worms, plankton, and much more to give your fish a boatload of nutrition in a small package.

    3. New Life Spectrum Marine Fish Pellets

    I have been using New Life Spectrum Marine Fish Formula ever since I started saltwater fishkeeping. It has always worked well for me, and most of my fish have readily accepted the food. This remains true for dwarf angelfish. I like using New Life Spectrum because they use high-quality foods. The Marine Fish Formula’s top five ingredients include Antarctic krill, squid, spirulina, garlic, and omega-3. While many other brands use filler or wheat products for their main ingredients, this company does something different.

    4. Ocean Nutrition Prime Reef Flakes

    I don’t use flake food as much as pellet food and frozen foods. However, if you’re hunting for flake food to feed your saltwater fish, consider Ocean Nutrition Prime Reef Flakes. This formula is designed for carnivorous and omnivorous fish. This includes all types of dwarf angelfish. The main ingredients for this product include plankton, dried fish protein digest, salmon, and fish meal. It’s a great food to have to help create a well-rounded diet for your angelfish and other marine fish.

    5. Nori Sheets

    Because dwarf angelfish are often seen grazing on algae, it might be a good idea to provide nori sheets to further supplement their diet. Coral Ranch Nori Seaweed or the Omega One Nori Sheet Bundle are fantastic choices, but there are plenty of other options and brands out there you can use. If you have a small aquarium that is lightly stocked, you may get more seaweed sheets than needed. The main consumers of algae sheets are tangs, rabbitfish, and foxface. Dwarf angels will often nibble off pieces of nori while the other fish are devouring it. Grab the Blulu 2 pc Magnetic Seaweed Clip to make it easy for you to put in and take out nori sheets.

    If you have the protein-rich food covered but are on the hunt for foods that are perfect for a herbivorous diet, check out 12 Best Fish Food for Herbivores – Saltwater Edition. These foods are tailored for herbivores, but they can still be a fantastic way to provide a varied diet to your dwarf angelfish and other saltwater fish.

    6. Spirulina Brine Shrimp

    Many brands sell Spirulina Brine Shrimp. The ones that I use the most are the Hikari Bio-Pure Frozen Spirulina Brine Shrimp and the San Francisco Bay Spirulina Brine Shrimp. Hikari is more likely to be available at your local pet store, but don’t hesitate to give other brands a try. Standard brine shrimp are not very nutritious, but enriched spirulina brine shrimp provide plant-based proteins, vitamins, and carotenoids that benefit dwarf angelfish. Also, Angelfish and many other shy eaters typically accept brine shrimp readily, making it a good way to get them eating if they’re shy or new to the tank.

    Final Notes

    There may be many more foods out there that can keep a dwarf angelfish fed and happy. These six are what I have fed mine successfully in the past. It’s incredibly important to provide a variety of foods when feeding dwarf angelfish and other fish. The more options they have, the more nutrients they are likely to absorb, which will lead to a happier and healthier fish. Fish require nutrition and good-quality food, just like humans do. If there is food you use that has worked great, let me know. I would love to add more to this list or create a fresh list of what to feed dwarf angelfish.

  • 6 Best All in One Saltwater Aquariums

    Not everyone wants to deal with planning, laying out, and piping filtration systems in their aquariums. Many of us enjoy some customizability to an extent, but some features are better off being pre-installed. That’s where all-in-one aquariums come in. All-in-one fish tanks eliminate the hassle of setting up filtration systems and provide other features already built in. Additionally, all-in-ones have a sleek appearance, making them excellent showpieces in a home. There are many different brands, and not every all-in-one aquarium is built the same. This article will discuss the top 6 all in one saltwater aquariums currently out on the market.

    This list is formulated from information provided by fishkeepers I have talked to, forum posts, and product reviews. There are many great all-in-ones out there, but this list outlines the ones that stuck out to me.

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    1. Innovative Marine – NUVO Fusion Pro 2

    You can’t go wrong with just about anything Innovative Marine related. The company creates some fantastic aquariums. Many of their products, especially their aquariums, are highly rated. The NUVO Fusion Pro 2 made this list because of the incredibly positive reviews reflecting its quality. There are a handful of models under the Fusion Pro 2 umbrella, but this article will hone in and discuss the features of the IM 25 NUVO Fusion Pro 2.

    The Innovative Marine 25 NUVO Fusion Pro 2 is bundled as a ready-to-run, rimless lagoon-style aquarium that works equally well for both freshwater and saltwater aquariums. The low-iron 8 mm glass keeps the display clear and bright. The all-in-one rear filtration chamber houses a built-in overflow and comes pre-fitted with a removable 200-micron filter sock plus a CustomCaddy media basket. Inside the basket, you get three stages of filtration from the start: mechanical fiber balls to trap debris, ROX 0.8 premium carbon to polish the water and remove discoloration, and a coarse GFO pack to help control phosphate. However, you can customize the filter media however you see fit. You can purchase the Innovative Marine 25 NUVO Fusion Pro 2 Aquarium on Amazon, BulkReefSupply, and Innovative Marine’s website.

    Filtration, Circulation, and more

    Circulation is handled by a MightyJet DC return pump (326 GPH) with a controller so you can dial flow up or down to match your livestock. The included dual-direction Nuvo nozzles let you split and angle the return stream, creating cross-currents or eliminating dead spots. For ease of use, the kit also includes adjustable water-level risers, a MicroMag glass cleaner, a SafeScreen mesh lid, and a fully assembled APS aluminum pedestal in black or white. Altogether, the PRO 2 bundle offers a matched pump-and-filtration system sized for the tank, giving new or experienced aquarists a balanced starting point without needing to piece together equipment.

    2. Red Sea – MAX NANO G2 Peninsula Aquarium (26 Gal)

    Next on the list is the Red Sea MAX NANO line of aquariums. This article will specifically discuss the 26-gallon version of this line, but there are a handful of sizes ranging from 20 to 53 gallons. The Red Sea MAX NANO G2 Peninsula is a 26.4-gallon, rimless reef-ready aquarium with an elegant peninsula layout that looks polished from multiple viewing angles. Built from 8 mm ultra-clear glass, it offers a bright, distortion-free display and a compact footprint (17.7″ L × 23″ W × 17.7″ H). Matching black or white cabinets are available for a seamless, furniture-grade presentation, and Red Sea backs the system with a five-year warranty (three years standard plus two on registration). This product can be purchased on BulkReefSupply, SaltwaterAquarium, and other online retailers.

    Integrated Lighting

    A Wi-Fi–enabled ReefLED G2 60 fixture is included, designed for coral growth and coloration with a spectrum that’s fully utilized by photosynthetic organisms. Through the ReefBeat app, you can access preset lighting programs, sunrise/sunset and lunar cycles, random cloud effects, and an acclimation schedule for new corals. This makes it incredibly easy to dial in both performance and aesthetics.

    Filtration & Water Management

    The rear sump comes fully equipped with a 250 GPH Sicce return pump, Nano XL protein skimmer, 225-micron filter sock, foam bubble trap, and a charge of 100 g Reef-Spec carbon. A removable surface skimmer enhances gas exchange, while all vital equipment connects to a convenient control panel that allows you to pause pumps or skimming for feeding and maintenance with a single touch. The system ships with a gravity-fed ATO (auto-top-off) to maintain stable salinity between refills.

    Advanced G2 Upgrades

    Two notable G2 improvements make the tank highly adaptable: it’s ReefATO+ ready, allowing seamless integration of Red Sea’s advanced auto-top-off, temperature monitor, and leak detection unit, and it is NanoMat ready, so the standard filter sock can be swapped for an automatic fleece roller for higher-capacity mechanical filtration. Both devices integrate with the ReefBeat app, giving you centralized control and real-time monitoring across your Red Sea gear. Both of these add-ons are sold separately.

    3. Tideline All in One

    The Tideline All-In-One aquariums are crafted by hand using high-quality automotive-grade glass, combining durability with clarity. The front and side viewing panels are made with low-iron glass, ensuring colors from fish, corals, and plants appear vibrant and true-to-life. Each model includes a self-leveling mat, helping to provide a stable and safe foundation for your setup. This line of aquariums is a little harder to find, but you can check out Tideline All in One aquariums on AquariumSpeciality.

    Filtration System

    Each Tideline AIO features a spacious rear filtration compartment that can be customized to fit your needs. Depending on tank size, models come with either foam block filtration (7.1G, 11.3G, 13.4G) or a rectangular filter sock (20.5G, 21.4G, 47G). The larger 47G Lagoon includes dual 3″ × 5″ filter socks, offering enhanced mechanical filtration. The layout makes it easy to adapt your system with different types of media or equipment upgrades over time.

    Circulation & Equipment

    All Tideline AIO aquariums come ready to run with a matched return pump and plumbing. The 47G Lagoon includes a MY-25L return pump rated at 375 GPH, giving solid baseline circulation for both freshwater and saltwater applications. This built-in flow system reduces guesswork and ensures compatibility right out of the box.

    Size & Versatility

    The Tideline AIO line spans several tank sizes, making it accessible for both new hobbyists and experienced aquarists. The 47G Lagoon measures 36.5″ × 18.5″ × 15.75″ with 10 mm glass thickness and is designed to fit perfectly on common 36 × 18-inch aquarium stands such as the Classic, Elegance, Heritage, or Vintage lines. With its large footprint and shallow lagoon-style proportions, it provides excellent space for aquascaping while still maintaining an easy-to-maintain water volume.

    4. CADE Reef S2

    The CADE Reef S2 is part of CADE’s Classic range, designed for advanced reef aquarists who want uncompromising quality and performance. Each tank is built from ultra-clear Opti-Clear glass with flat polished edges, delivering outstanding clarity and a premium look. A laser-etched CADE logo marks authenticity, while the base is pre-laminated in white, making it especially well-suited for bare-bottom reef setups. The rimless construction, clean silicone work, and precision finish highlight CADE’s reputation for craftsmanship. The Algaebarn has the full line of CADE aquariums available.

    Silicone & Construction Quality

    All seams are bonded with German Wacker silicone, known for its strength, clarity, and durability. Applied with exact precision, it creates razor-sharp edges and uniform gaps for both strength and aesthetics. This meticulous approach ensures the aquarium not only looks seamless but also provides long-lasting integrity for demanding reef environments.

    Weir & Filtration System

    The slimline Twin Intake Weir is a standout feature, designed for silent operation while efficiently pulling water from multiple levels in the tank. This dual intake system also functions as a safety net: if one intake is blocked, the other continues to operate, reducing the risk of overflow. The weir, ATO reservoir, and plumbing are all neatly concealed behind a black glass rear panel, maintaining a minimalist, distraction-free display.

    Additional Features

    CADE includes a sleek aluminum Jump Net, fully assembled, to protect livestock while preserving the open-top, rimless aesthetic. The system also features a large ATO (auto top-off) reservoir integrated into the design, ensuring stable water levels and reduced maintenance. Every aspect of the CADE Reef S2 emphasizes a blend of functionality, durability, and visual elegance, making it a premium choice for reef keepers.

    5. FIJI Cube – 32 Gallon Rimless All in One

    The Fiji Cube AIO Nano Tank Series is built with ultra-clear, low-iron glass for excellent visibility and vibrant display of fish and corals. Each tank features beveled glass edges and precision-applied black silicone for a sleek, high-quality finish. Compared to many competitors, Fiji Cube uses thicker glass, giving the tank added strength and durability without sacrificing elegance. A leveling rubber mat is included to ensure stability and protect the aquarium base. You can purchase this aquarium or other-sized all-in-ones directly from FIJI Cube.

    Filtration System

    Fiji Cube aquariums use a three-stage filtration system located in the rear sump. Water first passes through a filter sock for mechanical filtration, then enters a chamber that can house a protein skimmer or refugium, before finally moving into the return pump chamber. The included Fiji Cube Modular Media Basket provides additional flexibility, allowing hobbyists to customize filtration media to match their tank’s needs. The design also features top and bottom weirs, pulling water from both the surface and bottom of the aquarium. This helps remove surface films while also clearing detritus from the substrate level.

    Equipment & Flow

    The tank comes equipped with a Fiji Flow 550DC Nano Pump, paired with a digital flow controller that lets you fine-tune circulation to suit your livestock. A direction-adjustable return nozzle provides additional control, making it easy to eliminate dead spots or create more dynamic water movement. For added flexibility, the filter sock is replaceable with either 200-micron felt or nylon options, depending on your preference.

    Versatility & Features

    With its efficient sump design and thoughtfully planned chambers, the Fiji Cube Nano Tank provides enough space for both equipment and aquascaping. The refugium/protein skimmer chamber supports advanced filtration methods, while the rimless, low-iron glass design ensures a modern look that blends style with function. By combining thicker glass, a modular filtration approach, and premium components, Fiji Cube offers a feature-rich all-in-one nano system tailored to both new hobbyists and experienced reef keepers.

    6. Innovative Marine – SR Pro 2

    This line of aquariums comes in 60, 80, and 120 gallons. This article will discuss the 60 gallon model. The Fusion SR Pro 2 Full Size Series is a 60-gallon rimless all-in-one (AIO) aquarium built with safety, simplicity, and style in mind. Constructed from 10 mm low-iron glass with beveled and polished edges, the tank offers excellent viewing clarity while ensuring strength and durability. Signature black silicone enhances the clean look, while a pre-installed leveling mat and pre-assembled SafeScreen mesh lid add security and convenience. With its shallow reef dimensions (about 35″ × 24″ × 16″), the aquarium provides a wide, open footprint perfect for aquascaping flexibility. These aquariums are available on Innovative Marine, BulkReefSupply, and other retailers.

    Filtration & Flow

    Hidden behind the tank’s seamless acrylic overflow wall is a fully integrated AIO filtration system. The design includes an emergency overflow for safety, a removable 200-micron filter sock, and a full-size CustomCaddy media basket loaded with PurityPack media: mechanical fiber balls, ROX 0.8 premium carbon, and high-capacity GFO packs. Dual MightyJet DC return pumps (538 GPH each) with controllers deliver customizable flow, while four Nuvo nozzles and high-tide water risers allow aquarists to shape circulation and eliminate dead spots. All components are designed to stay hidden yet easily accessible for routine maintenance.

    Equipment & Accessories

    Each Fusion SR Pro 2 includes thoughtful extras to streamline setup and upkeep. A Micromag glass cleaner helps maintain clear viewing panels, while flexible hoses, return elbows, and directional flow nozzles give additional flow options. The system also incorporates an integrated emergency overflow and adjustable water-level risers, features usually found in higher-end reef systems. These additions make it both beginner-friendly and robust enough for advanced reef keepers.

    APS Stand

    Supporting the tank is an APS (Aluminum Profile Series) stand, engineered for strength and longevity. Built from anodized, corrosion-resistant aluminum, the stand is lightweight, warp-proof, and 100% recyclable. Its modular design comes semi-assembled with integrated hardware, magnetic door latches, and side access doors for convenience. The spacious interior accommodates sumps or other equipment, and pre-cut PVC foam boards are included for top and bottom stability. Finished in matte black, the stand offers a modern, furniture-grade appearance that complements the tank’s rimless design.

    Final Notes

    Today’s all-in-one and premium reef aquariums give hobbyists more options than ever to match their style, experience, and goals. Whether it’s the plug-and-play simplicity of the Red Sea MAX NANO G2 Peninsula, the customization potential of the CADE Reef S2, the affordability of the Tideline AIO, the feature-rich design of the Fiji Cube Nano, or the spacious versatility of Innovative Marine’s Lagoon PRO 2 and Fusion SR Pro 2, each system offers a unique balance of design, filtration, and functionality.

    By considering factors such as tank size, included equipment, and the level of control you want over your system, you can choose the aquarium that best supports your vision. whether that’s a minimalist nano reef or a full-scale shallow reef display. If you have experience with and of these aquariums, let me know. I’d love to learn what others think about them.

  • How To Set up Aquarium For Betta Fish

    How To Set up Aquarium For Betta Fish

    Betta Fish are gorgeous, colorful freshwater fish that are filled with incredible personalities. These fish don’t belong in tiny vases or in a cold, dark room. They should be kept in warm and filtered water with space to stretch their fins and swim around. This article will discuss the equipment and supplies I recommend to set up an aquarium for Betta Fish.

    I always encourage fishkeepers to go to their local fish store to purchase supplies. Many small and local fish stores have a great selection of plants, driftwood, fish, and, best of all, knowledge. Many do their best to provide great information to care for their animals. Unfortunately, shopping in a store is not always possible, so online shopping is the next best thing. I have curated a list of equipment and supplies you can purchase online to set up an aquarium for Betta Fish.

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    List Of Equipment and Supplies

    There’s a lot that goes into an aquarium, and it could get a little intimidating for first-time aquarists. I’ll try to make this setup guide as straightforward as possible. All the equipment and supplies I recommend for keeping a Betta Fish will be listed. It’ll be a beginner-friendly fish tank and will utilize live plants that are easy to care for. An explanation will be provided for why I recommend equipment and supplies. The following is what you’ll need to get your fish tank up and running before even thinking of adding a fish.

    The following are supplies, decorations, and other items I highly recommend to help increase your chance of keeping a successfully running fish tank. These items include things to monitor your water parameters and to make tank maintenance a little easier.

    You can pick and choose what equipment you’ll need, but these are my highly suggested items. If there is a brand you prefer using, by all means, use that brand. I am sharing what has worked well for me. I also recommend always buying from your local fish store if possible. They work hard to keep this hobby available to us. If you do not have a mom-and-pop fish store near you, then consider picking up equipment and supplies online. I will always appreciate your support if you click and purchase items from the affiliate links provided.

    Aquarium, Aquarium Stand, Lid, & Background

    Technically speaking, Betta Fish can be kept in a minimum of 5 gallons of water. However, more space for a fish is always recommended. I suggest keeping a Betta in at least 10 gallons of water. They move a lot more than you might think, and larger water volumes often mean more stable water parameters. For this setup, we will be using the Aqueon 10-gallon fish tank. I have used Aqueon fish tanks all my life. They are sturdy and have a track record of being great aquariums (at least for me).

    Many aquariums can be purchased with a stand. The important thing when putting a fish tank on a stand, table, or other furniture is knowing the limitations of what you’re putting it on. The water volume of a 10-gallon fish tank will weigh at least 80 lbs, and not all furniture is built to hold that kind of weight.

    For example, you can put the fish tank on a dresser, just make sure the dresser can hold the weight, won’t sag over time due to the weight, and won’t warp and transform if you accidentally spill water on it. If you’re questioning the weight and durability of the furniture you plan on using, it’s probably a good idea not to use it. Damage from an aquarium blowout can be expensive, so it’s not worth risking it.

    Aquarium lids and backgrounds are pretty straightforward. Betta Fish can jump out of an aquarium, so a lid is recommended. Aqueon has glass lids made to fit their frame, but you can also make or purchase a custom lid. Floating plants are sometimes used instead of lids, but it’s not guaranteed they’ll stop a fish from jumping out. I make very simple backgrounds with black paper purchased from a dollar store. I simply cut it to size and tape it to the back. It’s easily replaceable if it gets wet, and it is negligible in cost. However, use whatever background makes you happy.

    Aquarium Filter

    For a Betta Fish aquarium, especially for one that will be set up with aquarium plants, I recommend a sponge filter. There are a few reasons for this. Betta Fish have nice flowy fins that can theoretically get sucked into the intake of a hang-on back or canister filter. A sponge filter removes that possibility almost entirely. Sponge filters move air through a tube. That’s literally all they do. So a Betta cannot get sucked into one. You can learn a few things about sponge filters by checking out Sponge Filter Use, Cleaning, and Extra Tips.

    Downside to Sponge Filters

    There are a few downsides to a sponge filter (in my opinion). The first being that they only provide biological filtration. Bacteria will populate the sponge, which is fantastic, but that’s all it’ll do. There is no mechanical or chemical filtration. Regardless, bacteria are really important in keeping your nitrogen cycle in check, so it’s fantastic that bacteria colonize the surface area of a sponge. Luckily for this setup, plants and water changes should fill the gap of not having mechanical or chemical filtration.

    The other downside is the size. I personally don’t like how much space a sponge filter uses in an aquarium. I prefer a small tube of a hang-on back filter over a sponge that takes up space. For the sake of a Betta, I’ll look passed it and use a sponge filter.

    Aquarium Heater

    Heaters are the pieces of equipment that are likely to malfunction in an aquarium. When you mix a device that produces a lot of heat at short intervals, it’s bound to happen. Regardless, they are often a necessary aspect of fish keeping. My go-to heaters are the Fluval M-Series Heaters and the Aqueon Pro Heaters. These have treated me well in the past, but I understand that everyone has a different story with the quality of heaters, and what has worked for me may not be the same for someone else. You can learn about some of my favorite heaters by reading 6 Best Aquarium Heaters for Freshwater & Saltwater Fish Tanks.

    Aquarium Light & Power Strip

    Since we are growing plants in this enclosure, it will need a light that can help plants grow. Luckily, we will be sticking to beginner-friendly plants that won’t require high-intensity lighting. For an aquarium like this, a budget-friendly NICREW 20″ SkyLED light might do the trick. If you’re looking for something on the higher end, with more versatility and customization, consider the FZONE LED Aquarium Light. This light has an app that allows you to customize colors and intensities, which really lets you nerd out with your fish tank.

    This aquarium will have at least three pieces of equipment that consume electricity. I suggest getting a good power strip for it. I listed the Amazon Basics Power Strip above. They are generally reliable and rated quite high in quality. You might have a good power strip lying around your house that’ll work for this setup. When running electrical cords and wires around aquariums, remember to set them up with a drip loop to prevent water from reaching the outlet.

    Substrate

    Sandy substrate or gravel is what I recommend for most aquariums, especially ones with plants growing in them. I provided CaribSea Eco-Complete Black Gravel as a suggestion, but most brands will work. The black gravel should make your fish and plants pop in color compared to lighter gravels that reflect color and wash out the surroundings. If you’re a beginner aquarist, gravel may be the better choice. Gravel does a better job of anchoring plants in place. Sand is just a little harder to work with when putting in plants.

    I have gone a very cheap route and set up an aquarium with pool filter sand. You can get a 50 lb bag of HTH Pool Filter Sand for roughly 15$, which is quite cheap compared to other substrates. Not all sands are made the same. Certain ones have high levels of silicates and are not as clean. Play sand is a great example of this, and I would not use that for an aquarium. If you decide to use pool filter sand, thoroughly rinse the sand before adding it to an aquarium. Otherwise, it may take a long time for your aquarium to clear up.

    Live Plants & Driftwood

    Aquarium plants chosen for this setup will be easy to care for. Most of these don’t require anything besides fish waste and decent lighting to prosper. I have an article devoted to beginner-friendly aquarium plants, it’s called 10 Best Aquarium Plants For Beginners. For this fish tank, I’d use Anubias, Crypts, Java Fern, Salvinia minima, and a species of moss to grow on driftwood.

    Betta Fish love to rest on or under leaves, which makes Anubias and Java Fern a perfect option. Crypts grow fairly quickly and often form large bunches, which is great for filling up space. Salvinia minima is a floating plant that is great at soaking up nutrients and also provides a barrier between the surface and water. This will hopefully lower the risk of your Betta jumping out of an aquarium. The moss is self-explanatory; glue it or tie it to a piece of driftwood and watch it grow. There are many plant options; choose which catches your eye, but look into the plant’s needs before purchasing.

    Most driftwood found in a fish store should be good to go. The only precaution I would advise is to be careful about sharper-edged pieces of driftwood. It’s unlikely, but the sharp edges can snag a Betta’s fin and damage them. Driftwood also has a strong possibility of releasing tannins into the water. They aren’t dangerous and instead are beneficial to a fish tank. The downside to tannins is that they change your aquarium into a brown, tea color.

    API Freshwater Master Test Kit & Water Conditioner

    A freshwater test kit will be a necessity for your brand-new aquarium. Your fish tank will go through the nitrogen cycle. The cycle essentially creates a “safe” habitat for your fish. The cycle typically progresses through an ammonia stage, a nitrite stage, and concludes with a nitrate stage. Nitrite-producing bacteria consume ammonia, and nitrite-consuming bacteria produce nitrates. Ammonia and nitrites are toxic to fish. Nitrates can also be dangerous to fish at high levels. This is why it’s important to have a test kit on hand to make sure you’re not adding fish into an aquarium actively going through the nitrogen cycle.

    After your fish tank is cycled, the solution to removing nitrates is simply water changes. Usually, a 10-20% water change will help lower nitrates. I do not recommend doing 100% water changes, and do not take everything out of your fish tank to “clean it”. This will more than likely crash your fish tank’s bacterial colony, completely crashing your aquarium. The only thing you’ll likely need to take out of the fish tank when cleaning is the sponge. Either when it gets gunked up or is falling apart. Gunked-up sponges can be rinsed through old aquarium water, or some people suggest simply running them through the tap for a quick rinse.

    Many of us live in cities with municipal water. The water from this kind of tap water likely has chlorines and chloramines, which are good for us but bad for fish. A water conditioner is designed to remove harmful chemicals like chlorine and chloramine. SeaChem Prime is generally easy to use and will help us achieve the goal of removing chlorine and chloramine from the water. Use a water conditioner every time you add water to your fish tank.

    Fish Net & Fish Food

    Fish nets and fish food are self-explanatory. The net will be used to put the fish into the aquarium or to remove it, if needed. Your Betta will need to be fed, and that’s where the fish food comes in. Having a variety of food is important to give your fish a range of nutrition. I recommend a combination of flake food, bloodworms, Fluval Bug Bites, or any combination that fits your style.

    Gravel Vacuum & Buckets

    A few other things that are fairly straightforward are the gravel vacuum and buckets. I suggest getting at least two buckets. One to remove water and one to add clean water. The gravel vacuum will be used to conduct water changes. The end of the gravel vacuum will sift gunk out of the substrate and remove it from the aquarium.

    Putting it all Together

    So we have all our supplies. It’s time to put it all together. If you have an aquarium stand for your fish tank, put it where you think it should go. I suggest keeping your aquarium away from doors that lead to the outside and windows. Drafts from open doors in the winter aren’t good for the temperature stability of a fish tank, and an aquarium near a window sounds like an algae nightmare waiting to happen.

    Even though it’s only a 10-gallon aquarium, it could do some damage if it springs a leak or is defective. Some people might suggest filling the aquarium up with only water and having it sit for a day or two to see if it is defective. I usually do this with larger aquariums, and I haven’t done it with small aquariums. A leak can happen at any moment, and from what I have seen, it’s more common in larger fish tanks. If you’re testing your fish tank, consider doing it somewhere outside, in a garage, or somewhere where floor damage is not possible.

    Decorations & Equipment Setup

    Once the stand and aquarium are in place, I usually start adding the rinsed (if rinsing is applicable) substrate. While this is happening, I am simultaneously thinking about how I plan on decorating the aquarium. I don’t bother putting on the lights and lid yet because that will likely get moved around while decorating.

    You can connect your sponge filter to the airline tube and check valve, and put it in its place. You can connect it to the air pump and test to see if it works. Put the heater into its permanent location, but do not turn it on until you have water in the fish tank. You’re asking for trouble if you plug your heater in with no water.

    Add your other decorations, such as driftwood and rocks. Do this after adding enough water to saturate the substrate, and begin adding your plants. I recommend placing taller plants, such as Java Fern and Crypts in the back and shorter plants in the front. If you purchased floating plants, don’t add them until the aquarium is filled with water.

    Wrap it all up

    Finish filling the fish tank up with water, if you haven’t done so, dial your heater to the temperature you want it set at and turn it on. Place your thermometer, and add water conditioner into the aquarium. Now you can place your lid (if you have one) and light on top.

    If you have an older and more established fish tank, you can add filter media from that fish tank into the new one to help jump-start the nitrogen cycle. It could cut the cycle down by weeks, so you can hopefully add your betta sooner. If you don’t have an older aquarium, I usually sprinkle some food into the fish tank to give bacteria something to feed on. This is the start of your nitrogen cycle. It usually lasts around 6 weeks, but it’s important to monitor the progress with the Freshwater Master Test Kit.

    Final Notes

    Setting up a 10-gallon betta tank is all about creating a balanced, comfortable, and enriching environment where your fish can thrive. By choosing the right equipment, maintaining stable water parameters, adding safe décor and live plants, and allowing the tank to cycle before introducing your betta, you’re setting the stage for a healthy and vibrant aquarium. With consistent care and attention, your 10-gallon tank will not only showcase your betta’s natural beauty and personality but also provide a stable home where it can live a long, active life.

  • How to Setup an Aquarium For Neolamprologus multifasciatus

    Neolamprologus multifasciatus is a unique freshwater fish and is one of the smallest species of cichlid that can be kept in an aquarium. What makes these fish incredibly unique is their behavior. Multis are a shell dweller cichlid species normally found in Lake Tanganyika, which is a lake located in Africa. Their behaviors and hardy personalities make them fantastic for fishkeepers looking to keep something a little different. This article will discuss the process of setting up an aquarium for multifasciatus cichlids. I’ll provide a list of equipment and supplies they will likely need, and discuss more about these incredible fish.

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    List of Supplies & Equipment

    Multis are not an incredibly challenging fish to keep. These fish are fairly hardy and do not require elaborate aquarium setups. Also, once settled in a fish tank, you’ll likely see them breed. You might get tired of them breeding, similarly to how we get tired of Guppies breeding in a fish tank. The following is a list of equipment I suggest for these shell dwellers. You’ll likely want to have all of these supplies and equipment before assembling the entire aquarium.

    There are additional supplies that are highly recommended when setting up an aquarium and are essential for keeping it running smoothly. The following are supplies, decorations, and other things I recommend for your shell dweller fish tank. I’ll discuss the musts (in my opinion) and things you could get by without.

    As you can see, the list of supplies is pretty extensive. If you’re currently a fishkeeper, you may already have a good portion of these supplies. However, if you’re not, you will likely be spending some money to get everything you need.

    Aquarium & Aquarium Stand

    The first thing you’ll need to acquire for this setup is an aquarium and an aquarium stand. The aquariums that are easiest for me to acquire are Aqueon aquariums. They are generally great quality and a good price. I highly suggest picking up a fish tank from a fish store, instead of online. Glass and shipping don’t mix well together, so it’s better to buy one at the store. For shell dwellers, I recommend providing at least a 20-gallon long fish tank. Shell dwellers do better with more length and width in an aquarium than height. This is because they spend most of their time around the sandbed with their shells.

    Buying a used aquarium and stand is also an option. You’ll have to be careful with used aquariums because they may have issues due to previous use and age. You’ll also want to make sure whatever you use for a stand can hold a 20-gallon aquarium. Remember, 20 gallons of water will weigh about 160 lbs. Whatever you put the aquarium on will have to be able to hold that weight for a long time. Cheap material may bend and bow under the weight of the fish tank, which may eventually lead the aquarium to collapse. Also, make sure your aquarium is level to lower the chance of a blowout.

    Aquarium Lid & Light

    Shellies are not inherently known to jump, but technically, just about all fish can jump out of an aquarium. A glass top can do wonders to help prevent that. A glass top will also lower evaporation in the fish tank, which will also lower how much you have to top off the water. If you’re into custom lids, consider checking out GCInnovations’ custom 20-gallon long lid on Etsy. They currently make a lid for Aqueon and Imagitarium. Be sure to purchase the correct one if you go this route.

    Due to the harshness of the water parameters, many plants will not prosper in this aquarium. Shellies enjoy alkaline water with higher levels of water hardness and increased pH levels. Most plants prefer soft and acidic waters. So they are, for the most part, incompatible. Shell Dweller Cichlids, like Multis, also move shells and sand around. This will make the substrate a pretty inhospitable place for plants, and you’ll likely see them get uprooted constantly. What I am trying to explain is that these fish don’t need the fanciest lights to be happy because you probably won’t be growing plants in the aquarium. Any aquarium light should do perfectly fine over the fish tank. However, if you’re inclined to add some kind of plants, consider trying any of the 10 Best Aquarium Plants For Beginners. These plants are hardy, robust, and can handle some neglect. If any plants will succeed in this setup, it’s floating plants.

    Aquarium Backgrounds

    I am a cheap person and do what I can to save costs where possible in this hobby. Aquarium backgrounds are one of the things I usually go cheap on. I usually go to the Dollar Store or craft store and buy a large piece of black paper for the background. I then use scotch tape to tape the paper to the back of the fish tank. This has worked well for me, and I suggest you give it a try if you’re trying to save some money. However, don’t let me stop you from buying a background that’s better suited for your setup.

    Aquarium Heaters

    Shell Dwellers enjoy nice warm water. They do best under water temperatures ranging between 75°F and 80°F. Having a heater in the aquarium is crucial for keeping these fish healthy and happy. There are many heater options available. Take a look at the 6 Best Aquarium Heaters for Freshwater & Saltwater Fish Tanks to see some of the best options out there. I provided a link to the Fluval M-Series Heater earlier in this article. I enjoy using these, and they’re often my go-to choice for heaters. The 100W version of this heater is rated for aquariums up to 30 gallons, so it should provide plenty of power to keep your aquarium warm. Don’t forget to pick up an internal thermometer as well to keep an eye on the temperature.

    Aquarium Filter Options

    For aquarium filters, we can go two different routes. The first option that many people take is using a sponge filter. The reason many people use sponge filters for shell dweller aquariums is that fry (baby fish) cannot get sucked up into a sponge filter, unlike with a hang-on-back filter. Multis also tend to move sand around, and a sponge filter will not get clogged up from the sand because it does not have a motor. If you choose to go the sponge filter route, take a look at Sponge Filter Use, Cleaning, and Extra Tips for some information on them. If you purchase a sponge filter, you will also need to purchase an air pump to allow water to move through it.

    The other route that I recommend for a 20-gallon long shell dweller aquarium is to use a hang-on back filter with a prefilter covering the intake tube. I have grown to love the Seachem Tidal line of aquarium filters. They come loaded with a bunch of features that put them on top of my list of best aquarium power filters. Choose a filter that works best for you. I enjoy all the bells and whistles that come with filters. However, you may be someone who enjoys a more basic filter setup and do not need all the features. Check out the 7 Best Hang On the Back Power Filters for Freshwater Aquariums to see some of the best HOB filters on the market. You can purchase 12 pieces of Black Prefilter Sponge (affiliate link) to cover your filter intake tube. The Seachem Tidal 35 is the smallest size you can purchase. Luckily, the filter has adjustable flow rates, so you can slow down how much water gets pushed through the aquarium.

    Substrate For Aquarium, Escargot Shells, and Texas Holey Rock

    I chose the CaribSea Ivory Coast Sand for a few reasons. It looks cool with the black and white grains of sand, and it adds a unique touch of color to the aquarium. The main reason I chose this sand over other sands is that it aids in buffering your fish tank. This sand helps keep pH levels from dropping and assists in maintaining proper water parameters for your shellies. Some fishkeepers mix this sand with other Aragonite sands for the look and additional buffering capacity. 20 lbs of this sand may or may not be enough for your needs. I added one bag into a 20-gallon long, and felt like I could use more sand.

    Escargot shells are not the natural shells of shellies. The native shell species that shell dwellers use are incredibly expensive and hard to find. These are the next best thing. Regardless, shells are a must-have for your shellies. This is what they use for their home. They guard, fight, and constantly battle and switch shells. Without them, they’ll be incredibly stressed and will suffer. I recommend having at least 3 shells per fish. Covering the bottom of your aquarium with shells is probably the best route for this setup.

    Texas Holey Rock is technically not necessary for this setup. I added some into mine for some structure, to hide equipment, and to provide additional buffering. My goal is to try and buffer the water to the proper pH and hardness levels without having to use too many chemicals. Using rock and sand will help with this.

    Seachem Equilibrium & Water Test Kits

    If you have naturally occurring hard water, you may not need to buffer your aquarium water at all. I use RO water for all my fish tanks because I do not have the cleanest water out of the tap. This means buffering for pH and hardness will likely be a necessity. Seachem Equilibrium is the mineral buffer that I recommend to achieve proper GH levels for your aquarium.

    It’s important to test your aquarium water, tap water, and water after buffering agents are added to make sure you’re adding the proper amounts. I use the API Freshwater Master Test Kit for this with the GH test kit to keep an eye on my water parameters.

    Other Accessories & Supplies

    One thing you’ll need is fish food. Multis are predominantly carnivorous, so protein-rich foods are the way to go for them. Fluval Bug Bites, Bloodworms, and micropellets are good options. I would also provide them with crushed-up flake food as a supplement. Giving fish a variety of foods will help provide them with an umbrella of nutrients. One food might lack a certain nutrient that another may provide.

    There are a few other things you’ll need if this is your first time setting up an aquarium. You’ll need nets, buckets, a gravel vacuum, and consider looking into medications and aquarium salt for your fish in case they get sick. One other thing that is often overlooked is a battery-powered air pump. These are useful if you live in an area that loses power often. Fish can handle days without food, but a lack of oxygen due to no water movement can be detrimental to your fish tank.

    What’s Next?

    Before you add any fish into your aquarium, you’ll have to allow your aquarium to go through the nitrogen cycle. This cycle essentially creates the environment for your fish to live in. Your aquarium will go through 3 stages during this cycle. An ammonia stage, nitrite stage, and the nitrate stage, where we want to be. At the end of the cycle, we’ll want to see 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and a hint of nitrates. You’ll use the API Freshwater Master Test Kit to keep an eye on the water parameters.

    Stages can take anywhere between 6 to 8 weeks. You’ll need to give bacteria something to feed on. I usually drop some fish food into the aquarium to jump-start the cycle, but this is not a very scientific method of doing things. If you have an aquarium or know someone with an aquarium, ask them for some filter media to help seed your fish tank with bacteria. Seeding the fish tank could help speed up the nitrogen cycle.

    Final Notes

    Shell dwellers are fascinating little fish. At the time of this writing, I am setting up a 20-gallon long for Multis, and I cannot wait to get it stocked. If you’re entering the world of fishkeeping and are looking for a single-species aquarium, consider getting these fish. If not, check out 10 Best Fish For a 20 Gallon Tank – Freshwater Edition to see some other really cool fish that can be kept in a 20-gallon aquarium.

  • How to Make an Aquarium Light Stand for Hanging Lights

    Finding a way to create an aquarium light stand for hanging lights can be challenging. Most aquarium lights have legs that extend to the aquarium’s frame, making setup quite easy. However, some lights need to be hung above the fish tank. This article will discuss one way that I have created a DIY aquarium light stand for a hanging light using only conduit, spray paint, and straps. I made a video of this process for anyone interested, but I will provide a step-by-step process below with links to everything I used.

    Gathering Materials

    I wanted to try something different with a 40-gallon breeder aquarium. The goal was to use an LED Grow Light to get some powerful lighting above my soon-to-be fish tank. I jumped online and purchased the KingLED LED Grow Light (affiliate link). Unfortunately, the grow light I purchased needed to be hung above the aquarium. I was not able to simply rest legs on the frame of the aquarium. This predicament got me thinking of cheap and DIY ways to hang my LED lights.

    I ran to Home Depot and purchased 1/2″ x 10ft. Conduit for $5.98. I didn’t think to bend the conduit with a conduit bender when I was on site. However, I’m glad I didn’t, so I can measure how much conduit I needed to hang over the fish tank. I didn’t get a clean 90-degree bend because I didn’t have a bender at home, but I made it work. While I was at Home Depot, I also purchased 1-Hole Speed Thread Straps (4-Pack) for $2.49. I also purchased HDX No Rust Black Spray Paint for $5.50. So far, excluding the light fixture, we have invested less than 15$ into this DIY aquarium light stand.

    Prepping The Conduit & Thread Straps

    Before screwing the parts onto the aquarium stand, I decided to spray paint the conduit and straps to make them a little more aesthetically pleasing. I bent the conduit after measuring where on the stand it was going to screw in, and how far above the aquarium I’d want it. After bending, I laid the conduit and straps on top of an old piece of cardboard and spray-painted one side of the material. Once dried, I flipped the material over and spray-painted the other side. After everything drys, it’s time to start screwing the conduit and thread Straps into position.

    Putting it all Together

    So everything is dried and ready to be set up. For this setup, I previously made an aquarium stand out of 2x4s, so I had plenty of wood to screw this light stand to. I did my best to eyeball where I wanted the lightstand to be. I started screwing in one of the thread straps but I made sure I did not screw it in too tightly. I didn’t overtighten the strap, so I can easily slide the conduit into place. Make sure the bend of the conduit is facing in the direction of the aquarium. Once the conduit was in place, I tightened the thread strap and installed another one to solidify the lightstand. After everything was in place, I hung the light above the aquarium and made sure everything was sturdy to avoid potential collapse. That’s all there is to setting this DIY light stand for hanging lights.

    Final Notes

    Hopefully, this quick tutorial on how to make an aquarium light stand was straightforward enough to help you set one up. I highly suggest you watch the video and follow along. It’s very easy to set up, but make sure you have a strong enough aquarium stand to handle the weight of a hanging light. There may be pre-built hanging lights available to purchase online, but you can’t go wrong with building one for 15 dollars.

  • 12 Best Fish Food for Herbivores – Saltwater Edition

    12 Best Fish Food for Herbivores – Saltwater Edition

    Fish food quality seems to get better as this hobby continues to grow. Some classic brands make fantastic fish food and new brands continue popping up with some quality food. When I first started fishkeeping I felt like the main foods in my area were TetraMin and Omega One. As the years progress and my knowledge expands in this hobby, I see far more brands, tailoring food to specific types of fish and their dietary needs.

    This list of foods showcases many fantastic options for fish that are normally seen munching on algae and plant matter in nature. This list is in no specific order, but the listed foods are some of my suggestions and suggestions from many different hobbyists who have used them. As a disclaimer, when I look at fish food quality, I mainly assess the ingredients. There are many methods aquarists use to determine which food is best. Some methods are scientific and others may be based on guesses, assumptions, habits, or other ways that are not as scientific. Some aquarists will look at the ingredients, amount of ash, or percentage of crude protein in the food. Working at a fish store, I have seen people look at the picture on food containers and choose their food based on what fish is on the label. This list will discuss many different foods that are great for herbivorous fish. I will provide my personal favorites at the end of the article.

    Pellet Food

    Pellet foods are small circular or square, bite-sized meals for fish that are designed to provide a balanced diet. Not all pellet foods are created equal, but providing a variety of foods to your fish will help assist in keeping them healthy. I enjoy using pellet food because most sink and generally stay in the same area when you drop them into the aquarium. This is in comparison to flake food that often floats at the top of the aquarium or quickly disperses and spreads throughout the fish tank if there is water movement. The following are four different brands of pellet food that I have used and have had suggested by fishkeepers.

    Hikari Seaweed Extreme

    Hikari Seaweed Extreme is a pellet food specially crafted for fish with an herbivorous appetite. The first few ingredients of Seaweed Extreme are: Dried Seaweed Meal, Wheat Flour, Fish Meal, Krill Meal, and Cuttlefish Meal. According to the FDA, “On a product label, the ingredients are listed in descending order of predominance by weight, with the ingredients used in the greatest amount first.” This means that by weight, Dried Seaweed Meal is the main ingredient. This is fantastic because some foods have fillers as the first ingredient which is not great for quality. Seaweed Extreme also comes in a resealable plastic pouch, with aluminum lining to keep the food fresh. Seaweed Extreme comes in small pellets (affiliate link) or medium-sized wafers (affiliate link).

    It’s a great option for tangs, blennies, foxfaces, and most other marine herbivores. I suggest feeding no more than what your fish will consume. Hikari Seaweed Extreme softens in water fairly quickly and may make a mess if you let it sit in your aquarium too long. Luckily, many of us have an abundant supply of clean-up crew and bottom-feeding fish that will pick up the stray pellets. It’s also a great supplemental meal for other species of fish. You can dive deeper into Seaweed Extreme’s ingredients and information by checking it out on Hikari’s website.

    Ocean Nutrition Formula Two Pellets for Herbivorous and Omnivorous Fish

    The Ocean Nutrition Formula Two Pellets are a great option for both herbivores and omnivores. There are three different sizes for varying-sized fish species. You can purchase small pellets (+/- 1.2mm), medium pellets (+/- 3.1mm), and XL (+/- 8mm). The small and medium pellets come in 3.5oz, 7.0oz, and 14oz jars. The XL pellets come in a 1.1lb. and 2.2lb. bag. You’ll have to decide what size pellet food is suited for your fish and aquarium needs.

    These slow-sinking pellets contain a range of ingredients, the first five ingredients include: Fish Meal, Wheat Flour, Kelp Meal, Soybean Meal, and Alfalfa. Further down the line of ingredients, you’ll see garlic. Garlic is included in these pellets to introduce an appetizing flavor to (hopefully) encourage finicky eaters to begin consuming processed foods. Ocean Nutrition Formula Two Pellets (Affiliate link) is available on Amazon in the variety of sizes listed above. For the full list of ingredients and more detailed information, check this product out on the Ocean Nutrition website.

    New Life Spectrum AlgaeMAX

    New Life Spectrum AlgaeMAX is a pellet food fine-tuned for an herbivorous diet. You can purchase these pellets in 6 sizes: Regular, Medium, Large, Jumbo, Mini-Wafer, and Wafer. Although this formula is made with herbivores in mind, omnivorous fish will benefit from consuming these pellets as well. You can purchase New Life Spectrum AlgaeMAX (affiliate link) on Amazon to get it delivered to your home.

    The first 5 ingredients of AlgaeMAX include: Seaweed, Krill, Squid, Whole Wheat Flour, and Kelp. Seaweed is the main ingredient of this pellet food by weight. New Life Spectrum uses six different seaweed species to create this formula. Check out New Life Spectrum ALGAEMAX’s product page to learn more and to see the full list of ingredients in this pellet food.

    NorthFin Veggie Formula Sinking Pellets

    Northfin’s Veggie Formula sinking pellets have your herbivorous fish in mind. Northfin uses Organic-Certified Kelp as its first ingredient. The following four main ingredients include Whole Antarctic Krill Meal, Whole Herring Meal, Whole Sardine Meal, and Wheat Flour. Although the amount of Wheat Flour in pellet food shouldn’t be a big issue, it is nice to see fillers and bonding agents further down the list like how you see with Northfin’s Veggie Formula. You can purchase Northfin Veggie Formula Pellets (affiliate link) on Amazon.

    This pellet food comes in 1mm, 2mm, and 3 mm-sized pellets. The packages available come in 100g, 250g, 500g, and 1kg bags. Check out the Northfin Veggie Formula product page for a more in-depth look at the ingredients, available sizes, and more information on this product.

    Flake Food

    Flake food is a staple that is used in this hobby. This type of food is what I started with when I began my fishkeeping journey and I could believe that to be true for many others. Flake food is essentially a blend of processed ingredients compressed into thin flakes. Like pellet food, it is designed to provide a balanced diet for your fish. Not all foods are created equal and you’ll have to decide which will work for you. I’ll say this again, providing your fish with a variety of foods will help give them a wider spectrum of nutrients.

    Ocean Nutrition Spirulina Flakes

    I am back with another Ocean Nutrition product, this time I want to discuss the Spirulina Flakes by this company briefly. Ocean Nutrition claims this product does not cloud your water, helps support coloration, and now has probiotics. You can purchase 1.2 oz or 2.5 oz jars of Ocean Nutrition Spirulina Flakes (affiliate link) on Amazon. There is a 4.5 lb. box available that you’ll have to purchase from another source.

    The first five ingredients in Ocean Nutrition Spirulina Flakes are Fish Meal, Spirulina, Pollock, Dried Kelp, and Wheat Flour. Spirulina is blue-green algae that is known to have high-protein content and a nice blend of vitamins and minerals You can learn more about the ingredients on the Ocean Nutrition Spirulina Flake’s product page.

    Omega One Veggie Flakes

    Omega One Veggie Flakes with Kelp is a flake food that is made from Alaskan Salmon and Whole Herring. The first five ingredients of this product are Salmon, Whole Herring, Wheat Flour, Kelp, and Whole Shrimp. I like that this product uses “whole ingredients” instead of things like fish meal. There is nothing inherently wrong with Fish Meal but you don’t exactly know what part of the fish is compressed to be a part of the flake food, so it’s nice to see whole ingredients.

    Amazon has the 2.2 oz container of Omega One Veggie Kelp Flakes (affiliate link). This product also comes in 1 oz and 5.3 oz jars. You can learn more about the Veggie Kelp Flakes on the OmegaSea website.

    Xtreme Spirulina Flakes

    Xtreme Spirulina Flakes are another type of flake food that is a fantastic choice for saltwater fish. As one might guess, the main focus of this flake food is Spirulina, which is the first ingredient in this product. The following four ingredients include: Fish Meal, Wheat Flour, Non-GM Soy Flour, and Shrimp Meal. If you see varying colorations in your flake food, do not be alarmed. Xtreme does not use artificial dyes or chemicals in their foods. The coloration on the flake food comes from the color of the products they use to make it.

    Amazon has Xtreme Spirulina Flakes (affiliate link) available in 2 oz, 3.5 oz, and 16 oz jars. You can check out the rest of Xtreme’s products, and a list of ingredients used for the Spirulina Flakes on Xtreme Aquatic Foods website.

    Frozen Foods

    Frozen foods are often used to feed all kinds of fish. Many fishkeepers steer to using frozen foods because they’re known to retain more nutrients compared to their dried alternatives. This is possible because frozen foods are often “flash-frozen” shortly after being harvested. Many stubborn fish are more open to trying frozen foods compared to processed foods such as pellets and flakes. The following are frozen foods that fairly popular for herbivorous saltwater fish.

    Rod’s Herbivore Blend

    Rod’s Herbivore Blend is a great food to have. It is food that most fish and coral can enjoy, but it is tailored with a bit more algae and greens with your Tangs, Rabbitfish, Blennies, and other fish in mind. Rod’s Food comes in different-sized packages. You’ll have to break off chunks of food from the package, thaw it, and then feed your fish.

    The first five ingredients in this formula are Whole Shrimp, Whole Squid, Whole Oyster, Whole Clam, and Whole Octopus. Further down the line of ingredients, you will see green seaweed, red seaweed, and purple seaweed. You’ll also see spinach, broccoli, and carrots. Although by weight, the main ingredients are what we consider a staple in a carnivorous diet, a good portion of this formula is rich in fibers, which is what herbivores need. In the wild, many herbivores do not strictly consume greens. Countless microorganisms are growing and living within algae and seaweed which gets consumed by herbivorous fish. The key to a balanced diet is variety.

    If you’re interested in seeing the full list of ingredients, check out the Herbivore Blend on Rod’s Website. I will discuss some of the key takeaways in the next paragraph.

    San Francisco Bay Seaweed Delight

    San Francisco Bay Seaweed Delight is a frozen fish food that comes in cubes that you break off, thaw, and then feed to your fish. Each package comes with 30 cubes you can use to feed your fish. This food does not contain fillers and is enhanced with garlic.

    This frozen food is heavy on fibrous ingredients. The first five ingredients include Nori, Dulse, Bladderwrack, Romaine Lettuce, and Mustard Greens. It’s a much different formula when compared to Rod’s Herbivore Blend. Both are fantastic options for fish food and serve a slightly different purpose. You can check out more ingredients and information about Seaweed Delight on San Francisco Bay’s Website.

    Other Foods

    Flake, pellet, and frozen foods are your more traditional foods that can be given to fish. However, there are other types of food that your herbivorous tank mates may thoroughly enjoy. The following are a few of many foods I highly recommend feeding your saltwater herbivores.

    Nori Sheets

    For those who don’t know, Nori Sheets are essentially sheets of seaweed that you can give your fish to graze on. It’s a great food to feed tangs, foxfaces, rabbitfish, angels, and other saltwater fish. I have seen species you wouldn’t expect to graze on Nori Sheets, such as Triggers and Pufferfish. Many brands sell Nori Sheets for fish. You’ll likely see Omega One Seaweed (affiliate link) more commonly at your fish store compared to other brands. Two Little Fishies Sea Veggies (affiliate link) are also an excellent option for Nori.

    Some fishkeepers purchase Dried Kelp Seaweed used for Sushi and feed that to their herbivorous fish. You have to be careful with this because these Nori Sheets may have oils, salts, or other ingredients in the package. One that has been suggested to me is the 100 Sheets Dried Kelp Unseasoned Seaweed (affiliate link). You get more for your dollar, but use it at your own risk and check the ingredients to make sure there is nothing dangerous for your fish in the package.

    Rod’s Food Three Weed Blend

    If you’re looking for a variety of algae sheets packaged under one umbrella, look no further than Rod’s Food Three Weed Blend. This product provides you with red, purple, and green sheets of seaweed to give your fish a variety of seaweeds to graze on. It’s a great product to use for your tangs, angels, foxfaces, and other large grazing marine fish. Unfortunately, Rod’s Food is not available to all you Amazon shoppers out there, but take a trip to your local fish store and you may find some available. At the end of the day, the best way to continue this hobby is by supporting your local fish stores! You can check out Rod’s Food Three Weed Blend and many other Rod’s Food products on their website.

    Live Macroalgae

    Different species of macroalgae may be great food options for your fish. This will only be useful if you have a refugium and can grow different macroalgae species in there. Sea Lettuce, Gracilaria, and certain caulerpa species are a few that may be devoured by herbivores. It’s usually less of a hassle just feeding your fish Nori Sheets, but the option to give them live seaweed is there. For anyone interested, here is a quick guide on How To Setup a Refugium in a Saltwater Aquarium.

    Romaine Lettuce

    I have never personally tried feeding my fish Romaine Lettuce, but many fishkeepers swear by it. It’s another food that herbivores should happily graze on if you put it into your fish tank. If you go this route, the bare minimum you should do is to thoroughly rinse the lettuce to rid it of potential pesticides. Some hobbyists also recommend freezing the lettuce before feeding because that separates the cellulose and soft tissue which makes consumption a little easier.

    Final Notes

    Researching your fish’s diet is important to decide what should be given for food. Certain fish can be sensitive to high levels of protein. In the freshwater world, certain Mbuna species and Tropheus Cichlids require low levels of protein otherwise they run the risk of getting a condition called bloat. I highly recommend learning about the fish before jumping in and purchasing it.

    Based on my experiences and the ingredients listed, my favorite food options from this list are New Life Spectrum AlgaeMAX, Northfin Veggie Formula, Nori Sheets, and Rod’s Herbivore Blend. This does not mean the other foods are bad. I am not a food scientist, so I don’t truly know what makes one food better than the other. These four foods are simply my personal preference. The key at the end of the day is to provide a variety of options to your fish so they can get the best of everything. Let me know what foods you enjoy feeding your herbivorous fish. Check out 7 Best Fish Foods for Small Fish to learn what is best to feed your nano fish.

    6 Best All in One Saltwater Aquariums

    Resources

    Not everyone wants to deal with planning, laying out, and piping filtration systems in their aquariums. Many of us enjoy some customizability to an extent, but some features are better off being pre-installed. That’s where all-in-one aquariums come in. All-in-one fish tanks eliminate the hassle of setting up filtration systems and provide other features already…

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  • Why is my Aquarium Water Green?

    Why is my Aquarium Water Green?

    Most of us in this hobby have at least witnessed an aquarium with green water. I have seen it plenty and even experienced it a fair amount in my aquariums. It sometimes occurs out of nowhere or from a water change. The green water you see plaguing your aquarium is a population explosion of critters in your water column. Those little animals are called phytoplankton. In most cases, green aquarium water is not dangerous to any aquarium inhabitants, it just looks awful. This article will discuss many ways to remove green water from your aquarium.

    Before trying to make too many drastic changes to your aquarium, take a step back and give your aquarium a few days to “breathe”. Consider cutting down on feeding, cutting down or stopping fertilization, and taking a few days without water changes. The green water may go away on its own if you just let your fish tank work itself out. If this doesn’t work, the following are things you can try to alleviate your green aquarium water.

    Light Entering the Aquarium

    The first thing I would recommend is to evaluate how much light is getting into your aquarium. Throughout the day, check to see if there is ambient light entering your aquarium through a window. Next, look to see if someone keeps a light on in the room at all hours of the day. Lastly, reflect on how long you keep your aquarium’s lights on. Most planted freshwater aquariums only need light between 6 and 8 hours a day. I know I am terrible at tracking when lights need to go on and off in my aquariums. I bought a simple and cheap BN-LINK Indoor Timer (affiliate link) to plug my light into, so I don’t have to think about it. It saves me the headache of keeping my lights on too long if I get busy or will be away from home and miss the 6 to 8-hour photoperiod schedule. If you’re more tech-savvy than me the Govee Smart Plug (affiliate link) or any other smart plug may also be a better option for you.

    If your aquarium is near a window or your fish tank gets a lot of indirect sunlight from a window, I highly recommend either purchasing blackout curtains or moving your fish tank to a darker area. If the light source getting into your fish tank is not removed, you’ll likely continue to get green pea soup water.

    Nutrients in the Aquarium

    Water changes, liquid fertilizers, and too much feeding can introduce a large influx of nutrients into the water. This can be the spark that causes a population explosion of phytoplankton. Think about what you may have done recently to your water that could be the root of this problem. At the minimum, I recommend having a nitrate, ammonia, and phosphate test kit handy to keep an eye on the parameters that may closely affect algae and phytoplankton growth. The API Freshwater Master Test Kit (affiliate link) contains tests for nitrates, nitrites, ammonia, pH, and high-range pH. The API Phosphate Test Kit (affiliate link) will need to be purchased separately. If your test results have elevated levels of nitrates and phosphates, it may be time to conduct some water changes.

    I would suggest at the minimum checking your tap water and your aquarium water for things like ammonia, nitrates, and phosphates. Algae and phytoplankton use these nutrients (among others) to grow. Also, the problem will not go away unless you physically remove the nutrients from the fish tank or have an abundance of plants that consume the nutrients. Phytoplankton are fantastic food sources for many different animals in the wild but are incredibly irritating in a fish tank. If you’re interested you can learn more about “What are Phytoplankton?” by checking out the EarthObservatory website.

    Ways To Remove Phytoplankton

    Besides changing your light or your light schedule and reducing the amount of nutrients in the aquarium, there are a few other things you can do to combat the plague such as pea soup water. If possible, I would recommend adding all sorts of plants to remove nutrients from the water column. Floating plants are great at creating a barrier between light and water and they do a fantastic job at removing nutrients from the fish tank. Crypts, Vals, and Java Ferns are a few other species of plants that are easy to keep.

    If you test your water parameters, and everything seems normal, you can see if there is an Aquarium UV Sterilizer that can help eradicate the nuisance.

    Final Notes

    When combatting things like algae outbreaks, I try to avoid using chemicals if possible. Many chemicals only band-aid the problem. What we have to do is remove the problem at its source. If you can figure out the source, whether it’s lights, nutrients, or something else, you can isolate it and make changes to your aquarium to remove it. If you’re also dealing with hair algae in your fish tank, consider checking out 8 Great Ways to Help Remove Hair Algae in Aquariums.

  • The 10 Best Aquarium Games on Steam

    The 10 Best Aquarium Games on Steam

    Many of us have played games throughout our lives, and many of us have also been fish keepers at the same time. We can’t always be around our fish tanks or do not have the space, time, or money to maintain an aquarium in our current living situation. Luckily, we now live in a world where you can combine both hobbies. The following list contains the 10 Best Aquarium Games found on Steam. This list is strictly my opinion and may not be the same as yours, and this top 10 is in no particular order. I enjoy each game for different reasons.

    I am not sponsored by any of these games or their publishers. This article is simply to showcase some of the really amazing avenues in the hobby of fishkeeping. If you cannot set up an aquarium of your own for whatever reason, it is wonderful to have so many options to at least experience fishkeeping in a virtual world.

    1. Megaquarium

    Megaquarium is a tycoon-style, public aquarium simulation game. Although this game isn’t specifically about aquarium design, it’s a fun and unique experience regardless. You can dive in and tackle the campaign which gets you developing or improving public aquariums and galleries through different scenarios. Each scenario has different needs that must be completed before moving on to the next one. If campaigns aren’t your flavor, Megaquarium offers a sandbox mode where you can set parameters and difficulties to make your public aquarium building as easy or as challenging as you want.

    Freshwater Frenzy DLC

    The Freshwater Frenzy DLC for Megaquarium provides a massive collection of freshwater fish to add to your aquariums. This DLC also includes breeding, hybridization for certain species, water parameter requirements, and much more. It expands on the base game and gives you new ways to build your public aquarium. This DLC provides the following:

    • 5 levels in a freshwater-focused campaign
    • 30 freshwater species
    • 7 new tanks
    • 4 accessories to equip your staff
    • Dozens of new objects including decorations, plants, equipment, and posters
    • 4 brand new paints to keep your aquarium looking “fresh”

    Deep Freeze DLC

    Megaquarium Deep Freeze DLC continues to expand the experience in this game. It enters the realm of coldwater fish keeping. The following are the features included in this DLC. Check out the link below to purchase a copy of Megaquarium on Steam.

    • 5 level campaign
    • 30 coldwater marine species including abyssals, mammals, birds, invertebrates and fish
    • 8 new tanks and equipment to support your abyssal and polar species
    • 2 posters, a new gift shop item, plus 4 accessories to augment your staff
    • New paints, decorations and all-new custom substrates
    • Additional objectives to enrich the sandbox experience

    2. Chillquarium

    Chillquarium is a 2D, relaxing, idle fishkeeping game. In this game, you collect different fish to grow out. The fish can be sold to acquire money or you can hold onto the fish for ticket sales. Ticket sales get you money as well. Getting money allows you to purchase booster packs. You populate your aquarium with fish by buying booster packs. If you enjoy keeping fish and opening trading card packs, you’ll likely get hooked on Chillquarium.

    While you play through Chillquarium, you may come across rare color variants of certain fish. You may find painted, rainbow, or golden fish which are harder to acquire than their basic counterparts. The Chillquarium Wiki has an extensive archive of information to help get you started. You can purchase this game on Steam below.

    3. Let’s Build a Zoo (DLC)

    Let’s Build a Zoo, as the name suggests, is a management simulator game where you build a zoo with many different species of animals, including fish. However, to unlock fish in the game, you do have to purchase the Let’s Build a Zoo aquarium DLC. The DLC is called Aquarium Odyssey, and it takes you to an Aquarium Island to begin your brand new zoo, filled with sea animals. The DLC is loaded with over 50 new animals, including fish and mammals such as Eels, Manta Rays, Whales, Dolphins, and much more.

    Besides the animals, this DLC also adds 7 New types of enclosures and 110 new facilities, shops, and decorations to your arsenal of features. This addition to the Let’s Build a Zoo base game comes with a lot of new content for players to experience and the Let’s Build a Zoo Aquarium Odyssey DLC does a great job of mixing fishkeeping and managing to keep a player entertained.

    4. Fishlets

    Fishlets is a fish-collecting 2D simulator that allows you to feed, breed, and collect fish. It is a pixel-styled game where you can design the aquarium your fish will live in. You can jump into adventure mode, which takes you through different levels. You’ll unlock more fish and decorations as you play through and complete the levels. The casual game mode is exactly that, very casual. It allows you to go at your own pace to collect rare fish and all their varying color patterns.

    At the time of this writing, there are over 48 fish with more than 350 color variations to them. I know I easily get hooked trying to collect every species and their variations, and I know many of you have the same feelings. You can go on a fish collecting binge, like I normally do, or simply collect your favorite fish. Besides fish, you can add shrimp, snails, and other animals to your virtual aquarium by visiting the critter shop.

    Fishlets DLC

    Fishlets has a Natural Decor Pack (DLC) that can be purchased. This pack offers 14 nature-themed decorations and objects to add to your aquarium. A few things that stood out to me are the Cholla Wood, Leaf Litter, and Spider Wood. These decorations are fantastic for real-world aquariums and can now be added to your virtual fish tank. Fishlets also has an Ocean Conservation DLC that is completely free! Check this game out at the Steam Store below.

    5. Fish Game

    Fish Game is a fishkeeping simulator that takes aquarium building to the next level. The developers of Fish Game took the time to give each fish their unique personality and behaviors to provide a real aquarium experience in a virtual glass box. The fish in the aquarium will school, chase, fight, and exhibit many other behaviors you might see in real life. There are over 130 types of fish in this game currently, and I am hoping to see more in the future.

    Besides fish, Fish Game provides a very extensive aquascaping experience. This game includes over 50 types of hardscapes, including different types of rockwork, driftwood, and more. There are about 50 species of plants that you can propagate and grow. 25 different types of substrate can be sculpted to help you build your dream aquarium. You can build small 7-gallon aquariums and up to a 3000-gallon monster fish tank. There are many more features Fish Game provides that you’ll have to check out yourself by clicking on the Steam page below.

    6. Soggy Beans

    Expected to release in 2025, Soggy Beans is a relaxing idle game that allows you to decorate, take pictures, and complete photography quests. It takes a unique spin on an aquarium environment because the fish visit you in Soggy Beans. A fish may appear on your screen and you’ll have to spot them to record them in your journal.

    Soggy Beans lets you build your piece of the ocean. There are plenty of options to make your aquascape unique with different decorations you can stack and alter. Some interesting fish may show up in your aquascape. I have seen footage of a pufferfish with a small knife, a skeleton fish, angler fish with a pizza, and a few others you’ll have to discover once this game is released. Add Soggy Beans to your Steam Wishlist by following the link below.

    7. Aquarist

    Aquarist is a relaxing aquarium simulation game. In this game, you’ll manage and design a variety of aquariums and fill the fish tanks with many different fish species. Aquarist puts you up close and personal with the aquariums because it is your job to design, stock, feed, clean, and sell them. There is a lot to do but many reviewers thoroughly enjoyed tackling these tasks. I have followed this game since its early access release. It has come a long way and I had a great time designing the aquariums with the many decorations available.

    You can purchase Aquarist on Steam, Nintendo Switch, Xbox, and PlayStation. Some people who have played it on console said it takes a little while to get used to the controls, but the game is incredibly fun otherwise.

    8. Aquarium Designer

    In Aquarium Designer, you are a professional who seeks to design beautiful aquascapes in a glass box. You create and sell the aquascaped fish tanks to customers and use the money to purchase more decorations and inhabitants for your business. The better your aquarium’s design (with filtration, fish, etc.) the more money you’ll be able to make.

    Two creative modes are available if you need a break from your busy aquarium designing business. You can either choose the casual or realistic mode. These modes let you make designs that are limited only by your creativity.

    Aquarium Designer DLC

    Aquarium Designer has three different DLCs that you can purchase. Each DLC adds something new to the game to keep you entertained. The Interior Designer DLC is by far the most unique out of the three, and adds a whole new component to Aquarium Designer.

    Aquatic Store DLC

    The Aquatic Store DLC gives you access to the retail side of fishkeeping. You’ll be managing your own store and it’s up to you to decide how you want to stock the shelves. Shelves can be packed with exotic fish, decorations, and more.

    Sea Life, Japan, and Amazonia

    These three DLCs come loaded with new fish species, decorations, and quests to be explored. The Sea LIfe DLC adds Clownfish, Angelfish, Wrasses, Tangs, and much more fish to your game. This DLC also lets you stock your aquarium with corals and New decorations.

    The Japan DLC adds nine new fish species to your game. This includes Japanese Striped Loaches, Weather Loaches, Dojo Loach, Japanese Rice Fish, Lake Minnow, and a few more. Japanese-inspired decor is also available with the purchase of this DLC. Lastly, with this download one of the quests takes you on a journey to help an 8 year old boy create a dream aquarium of his own.

    With the Amazonia DLC you will receive 10 new species of fish found in the Amazon River, to throw into your aquariums. Some of these fish include Black Ghost Knife Fish, Otocinclus, Piranha,s and plenty more. Similar to the other DLCs, this one also adds new scenery elements to add new possibilities in aquascaping your fish tanks.

    Interior and Aquarium Designers DLC

    The Interior and Aquarium Designers DLC adds something different to this game. Take a break from creating beautiful aquascapes and managing a pet store, instead, design the inside of homes. It’s a cool idea which allows you to put your designing skills to the test. You’re not just building fancy glass boxes in Aquarium Designer anymore, you are now a complete interior designer.

    9. Behind Glass: Aquarium Simulator

    Behind Glass is powered by a 3D aquarium engine, and it shows in-game with lifelike details within. This game puts you into the world of aquarium designing and allows you to aquascape and admire your creations on your PC. Behind Glass comes packed with about 193 species of fish, crustaceans, and decorations. These assets span across both freshwater and saltwater systems.

    There are two modes of play in Behind Glass: Aquarium Simulator. The first is designer mode. In this mode, there are no boundaries on how you put your fish tank together. There are no real-world constraints in this mode. Simulation mode has more nuance to it. In this mode, you’ll be dealing with things such as water chemistry, plant, fish, and algae growth, and you’ll be dealing with equipment.

    This game also provides many other features you can experience by purchasing or checking out the Steam Link below. Behind Glass: Aquarium Simulator is in early access at the time of this writing and I am excited to see the progress it makes before its full release.

    10. I am Fish

    I am concluding this list of 10 aquarium games with a slightly different one. I am Fish puts you in the scales of four little aquatic heroes who have been separated from their pet store home. The four fishy friends include: Goldfish, Pufferfish, Piranha, and Flying Fish. Each of these fish comes with their own skills that will help you get through the game. Although I’d never suggest keeping these four species in the same aquarium together, somehow they became incredibly close friends.

    I see I am Fish having a great influence from Gil’s aquarium escape from Finding Nemo. Just like Gil, the inevitable goal is to reach the open ocean. You’ll use each fish’s skills to achieve that goal. I am Fish is a fun and colorful game that has nothing to do with fish husbandry or aquarium keeping. You can learn more about I am Fish by following the link below.

    Final Notes

    I love that the gaming market is entering the world of fishkeeping and aquarium management. Technology now has the power to create gorgeous games that show off this hobby’s true colors. A virtual world does not fully replace the effects of a real aquarium, but it is a great option for someone who does not have the space or money to set one up. I am really excited to see how these games and future games educate and showcase this hobby.

  • 4 Tricks To Feed Stubborn Gobies & Jawfish

    4 Tricks To Feed Stubborn Gobies & Jawfish

    Feeding gobies and jawfish can be a challenge. They stay very low in aquariums and tend to get outcompeted for food because of their skittish personalities. If they are reluctant, there are a handful of tricks to entice both types of fish into consuming processed food. This article will discuss some of the ways we can encourage our goby to eat or help a skittish goby get food before more aggressive eaters steal it.

    This process is not guaranteed to work, but I have had success with them in the past. As a disclaimer, this article focuses on sand-sifting gobies and jawfish. It is not a good reference for Mandarin Gobies and Scooter Blennies.

    1. Distract Other Fish With Food

    As stated above, gobies and jawfish are often outcompeted for food because of how low they are in fish tanks. All the food is usually gone before it gets close to them. One thing I have done is to simply drop some food in a different part of the aquarium to distract free swimming fish, and then drop food near the goby’s territory. I recommend turning off circulation pumps to prevent food from getting pushed away from the goby.

    If your goby is confident enough, you’ll see it dart out, grab some food, and go back into its burrow. This trick is simple and can easily be tried. However, it may be harder to accomplish in deeper fish tanks because it will take food longer to fall.

    2. Feed Goby With Tools

    If your fish are too fast and get through your distraction, you can try to feed your goby with tools. I have used Coral Feeder Tubes (affiliate link) to suck up some Mysis Shrimp, Brine Shrimp, or pellet food. I then squirt the food close to the goby’s burrow. Other fish may need to be distracted during this process, but feeding your goby more directly increases the chance of food successfully reaching it.

    This method may require a bit more patience. If you move the feeder tube a little too fast towards the burrow, you may startle your fish and it may hide.

    3. Try Different Foods

    Some fish are picky eaters. Gobies especially may only eat live foods that are already in the fish tank. It’s a good idea to at least offer multiple food options. Mysis Shrimp, Brine Shrimp, and pellet foods are usually the first things I offer new fish. They’re usually a hit but not every fish readily accepts processed food.

    If my fish is stubborn and refuses to eat any processed foods, my next move is to offer live baby brine shrimp, so I know it’s getting some food. Hopefully, over time I can ween the goby/jawfish into eating processed foods.

    4. Soak Food in Garlic

    If your goby or any fish for that matter, refuses to eat the foods provided, you may want to consider soaking your food in garlic, garlic extract, or Selcon Concentrate. I have cut up garlic, put it into a cup with aquarium water, and let pellets and frozen foods soak in it. A more potent alternative to this is Brightwell Aquatics Garlic Power (affiliate link) or Corallife Garlic Xtreme (affiliate link). You can often smell the concentrated smell without opening the bottle. Fish often go crazy over these supplements, and they will hopefully encourage your goby or jawfish to eat as well.

    I have used Selcon Concentrate (affiliate link) as a supplement for fish that are finicky eaters. It has helped to encourage finicky eaters to go after food for me. This is speculation, but I think the fish really go after the smell that Selcon gives off. Selcon is a food booster loaded with fatty acids, vitamin C, and vitamin B12. Whether your fish are finicky eaters or you want to provide them with more nutrients/vitamins, it might be worth your while to try Selcon.

    Final Notes

    If you have other tricks to get food to your goby or jawfish, please let me know. I want to share information with aquarists of all experience levels to help this hobby thrive. It can be very frustrating dealing with a fish that will not accept food. It’s not a great sight to see your gobies with sunken bellies. I hope this information helps someone who may be struggling with this.

  • 7 Best Fish Foods For Small Fish

    7 Best Fish Foods For Small Fish

    The fishkeeping hobby has grown quite a bit since I started. It has heavily expanded into the world of nano fish. Now, many species of nano fish are quite accessible compared to 20 years ago. Finding fish such as Chili Rasbora or Celestial Pearl Danio has become fairly easy. Foods that cater to small fish are out there, but not every food is made equal. This article will delve into 7 different foods I believe are the best options for small fish. This list is in no particular order, and I suggest providing a variety of foods to your fish to give them a well-rounded diet.

    1. Fluval Bug Bites

    Fluval Bug Bites are first on our list of foods that are very popular to feed nano fish. Insects are a nutrient-rich food source for fish and many fish feed on bug larvae in the wild. This naturally makes food that’s predominantly made from Black Soldier Fly Larvae an excellent choice to feed small fish. You can purchase Fluval Bug Bites (affiliate link) on Amazon, or pick some up next time you’re at your local fish store.

    2. Flake Food

    Any type of flake food is a great option to feed nano fish. This is mainly because flake food is easily crushed into incredibly small pieces. I have had critters as small as Guppy fry that were barely visible take flake food without a problem. One of my personal favorite choices for flake food is the Omega One Super Color Flakes (affiliate link), but there are many different options available out there.

    3. Pellet Food

    There are many different kinds of pellet food available for all types of fish. There are foods for the largest Oscars to tiny Rasboras. I personally prefer feeding pellet food over flake food when the opportunity arises, mainly because I feel like pellets are “neater” when dropped into an aquarium. I usually have both on hand, but I usually grab my jar of pellet food more often. Omega One Mini Pellets (affiliate link) that should also be a fantastic option for small fish. It’s good to try a variety of pellet foods and see which ones work best for you.

    Another brand of pellet food you may want to try is the NorthFin Nano Bits (affiliate link) pellet food. These pellets are small, averaging a size of .5mm. These pellets contain Black Soldier Fly Larvae meal, which is a similar ingredient to Fluval’s Bug Bites which we discussed earlier.

    4. Live Baby Brine Shrimp

    If you’re trying to dip your toes into feeding your fish live foods, there is probably no better way to start than with Live Baby Brine Shrimp. A Baby Brine Shrimp Hatchery Dish and Brine Shrimp Eggs (affiliate link) is all you really need to get started. The eggs should hatch in roughly 24 hours and your fish are ready to feast on this occasional treat. Small fish will benefit from this type of feeding, and newly hatched fry will also greatly enjoy being fed Live Baby Brine Shrimp.

    5. Freeze Dried/Frozen Daphnia

    Daphnia also known as water fleas are a great food to give your nano fish. They’re small and should fit into the mouth of most small fish. Choosing frozen or freeze-dried Daphnia is up to your personal preference. If you’re looking for freeze-dried options, Aquatic Provisions Freeze Dried Daphnia (affiliate link) are high in protein and are the only ingredient in a small package. Otherwise, Hikari Frozen Daphnia cubes are a fantastic choice.

    6. Tubiflex Worms

    Similar to Daphnia, Tubiflex Worms can be purchased in both freeze-dried and frozen varieties. Small tropical fish will love to feast on Tubiflex Worms. Some aquarists will take the Hikari Freeze-dried Tubiflex Worms (affiliate link) and stick them to the aquarium’s glass. The fish will either pick at the cube stuck to the glass or wait for the worms to break off before eating. Watching your fish pick at the worms stuck to the glass makes feeding even more exciting than it already is.

    7. Frozen Brine Shrimp & Mysis Shrimp

    These foods may be a little large for the smallest nano fish, but I would at least try giving this as an option to your fish. Frozen Brine Shrimp and Mysis Shrimp are a very common food given to fish of all sizes. You may see your nano fish swimming around with a large piece of shrimp sticking out of its mouth. Live Baby Brine Shrimp, Daphnia, or Tubiflex Worms may be the better option.

    Final Notes

    There are plenty of options to work with to make sure your fish are fed and happy. This list provides live, frozen, freeze-dried, and processed options to get your fish feasting. The important part of feeding fish is providing a well-rounded diet. Like other animals, fish require various nutrients from different sources to give them what they need to thrive. If you have food that you feed your nano fish, don’t hesitate to share.

  • API Freshwater Master Test Kit

    API Freshwater Master Test Kit

    The API Freshwater Master Test Kit is a fantastic kit for testing your aquarium’s water. It comes with 7 solution bottles, which allow you to monitor your fish tank’s: pH, High-range pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate. Ammonia and Nitrate have 2 solution bottles for each because they have part 1 and part 2 to their tests. This Master Test Kit also comes with an instruction book for each test solution, 4 vials for testing, and a color chart for results. It’s one of the best freshwater aquarium test kits, especially if you’re dipping your toes into the hobby and learning how to test water parameters. It’s very accessible, easy to find at stores, and the instructions are easy to follow. Many brands are fantastic for testing water, and that includes the API brand. You can purchase the API Freshwater Master Test Kit (affiliate link) on Amazon.

    Liquid Test or Test Strips?

    Test strips can work in a pinch to provide a rough idea of what your water parameters might be sitting at. However, at least from my experience, test strips are often less accurate than liquid tests. I’ve generally gotten much better results from liquid test kits compared to their strip counterpart. As long as you are following directions correctly, the API Master Test Kit will give great results and provide a fantastic reference point for your fish tank’s water parameters. The strips in question are the API 5-In-1 Test Strips (affiliate link). What works for well for me, may not work well for you. I prefer using the liquid tests, but the test strips may be your preferred method of testing water. That’s the great thing about this hobby, there are many ways to reach a goal.

    How To Use API Freshwater Master Test Kit

    The instructions provide a very clear and straightforward walkthrough of using the test kit. You’ll want to follow the instructions carefully to guarantee accurate results. If you do not have the instructions handy, you can find the API Freshwater Master Test Kit instructions here. I will share the process I use to test my water below. I suggest referencing the instructions for the number of drops needed and solution and water agitating times.

    • Gather necessary supplies for testing (test kit, paper towel, etc.)
    • Prep test kit vials by rinsing them with aquarium water
    • Add 5 ml. of aquarium water to the vial (I use 5 ml Syringes (affiliate link) for easy measuring)
    • Add test solution (reference instructions for appropriate amounts)
    • Depending on the test, allow the solution and aquarium water to sit
    • Compare results to color card
    • Triple-rinse vials and syringes with clean water (sink water should work)

    Each test should take no more than 5-10 minutes to complete. After testing is complete, make sure the vials and caps are rinsed out well with clean water. This helps prevent contamination in future tests, which guarantees more accurate results.

    Final Notes

    The API Freshwater Master Test Kit is a great way to get into managing your aquarium. It’s a tool, just like a fish net or gravel vacuum that we use to make fishkeeping easier. At the time of this writing, it only costs 36$ and can provide quite a bit of insight into what is happening in your fish tank. I usually purchase this Master Test Kit and buy the API Phosphate Test Kit (affiliate link) as well. Nitrate and Phosphate tests are great to have on hand, especially if you’re seeing algae getting out of control in your fish tank. High nitrates and phosphates usually means there is an abundance of fish waste and food waste in the aquarium, and it might be time for water changes. If you’re having algae problems, check out How To Remove Hair Algae in Aquariums.

  • Why Use a Circulation Pump for a Fish Tank?

    Two words in this hobby that get used interchangeably but are technically two different things are circulation pump and powerhead. Even companies use the words Powerhead and circulation pump interchangeably which can confuse people. Both have quite a bit of overlap in terms of what they do but there are key differences. At the end of the day, they both move water around an aquarium. I’ll briefly discuss what both technically are but for the sake of this article, I will use both terms interchangeably. This article will discuss why you might want to use a powerhead/circulation pump in an aquarium.

    What is a Circulation Pump?

    A circulation pump is technically a pump that can be used to pull water out of a sump system and into the display aquarium. Some might know them better as return pumps or sump pumps. The Hygger 24V Water Pump (Affiliate Link) is a great example of a circulation pump. The pump sucks water through the intake. The output end is usually connected to PVC piping or flexible tubing that discharges water into the aquarium. Some circulation pumps can be converted into powerheads but most do not have that capability.

    What is a Powerhead?

    A powerhead is a piece of equipment that moves water around a fish tank to increase flow. Think of it as an underwater fan that blows water around to create a current. There’s not much else to it. Unlike a circulation pump, a powerhead cannot push water through pipes. The Hydor Koralia (Affiliate Link) is probably the most iconic powerhead brand but there are many more great ones out there. In the next part of the article, I will discuss some uses for powerheads.

    Remove Dead Spots from the Aquarium

    Dead spots in aquariums are spaces where detritus can settle. Water flow doesn’t reach this space so it’s a perfect space for debris to rest, which can become a nutrient farm over time. A filter normally moves water around and removes debris from your aquarium, but sometimes your filtration could use a little help from a powerhead. Dead spots are inevitable, and in small quantities, they’re not always a bad thing. They’re a space fish can use to rest from current and water movement. So it has its benefits to some extent.

    Add Flow For Coral Reef Tanks

    Corals thrive on water movement. Different corals benefit from different levels of flow. For example, leather coral enjoys very calm flowing water. Others, like LPS and zoanthids, can tolerate moderate amounts of indirect flow. Lastly, stony corals love high flow, and large colonies can die off if not enough water movement gets through the intertwining branches. Filtration systems help with water movement, but that’s usually not enough for larger saltwater aquariums. The powerhouse that moves water around in a reef tank is often the powerhead.

    To Mimic an Ecosystem

    This more or less bounces off the previous statement. To imitate a coral reef, you need varying levels of flowing water to replicate the changing movements of water. You will not get a successful reef tank without any water movement. Live rock is part of the filtration system in a coral reef, and water must move in and out of it to do its job successfully. Corals will utilize water movement to filter feed. Without moving water, nutrients and food will never reach them.

    You can add flow to your aquarium with circulation pumps to mimic a river ecosystem. There are wonderful examples of fish keepers mimicking this type of environment using this equipment. Check out the video below of this exact example.

    Mixing Marine Salt For Water Changes

    I remember the days when I would manually mix saltwater before doing water changes. Luckily, I have grown in the hobby and made it easier for myself with an old circulation pump I had lying around. I add salt into a bucket, add RO water, and toss a circulation pump into the bucket to start churning the water. This allows me to set and forget this part of the water change.

    I check up on it from time to time to make sure salt hasn’t settled in a dead spot in the bucket. If it does, I shift the powerhead to move the water from a different direction. It’s a nice trick I use to give me a little more time to do things before a water change.

    Final Notes

    There are probably countless other ways to use powerheads in an aquarium. They’re a fantastic tool to use to create a unique ecosystem for specific species of fish, useful to make your aquarium maintenance easier, and the most obvious to aid in moving water around a fish tank. If you have other fantastic ways to use powerheads, consider taking the time to share them to help make this hobby great!

  • How To Remove Green Hair Algae in Saltwater Aquariums

    How To Remove Green Hair Algae in Saltwater Aquariums

    Green Hair Algae removal can be one of the most frustrating experiences in this hobby. Unfortunately, there is no cure-all solution to remove hair algae from your fish tank. The “cure-all” methods often band-aid the problem temporarily, but it will return if not removed at the source. Removing hair algae takes time. You’ll likely not see a change overnight, but with time, patience, and persistence, Green Hair Algae can mostly be eradicated from an aquarium. A combination of manually removing the hair algae and following the steps below will help remove it.

    This article will discuss some of the common reasons Green Hair Algae may wreak havoc on your saltwater fish tank, and once the problem is diagnosed, solutions will be provided to prevent it from coming back. This article should help to remove hair algae from a reef tank or fish-only saltwater aquarium.

    How Old Is Your Aquarium?

    Before continuing consider this. Many new(ish) saltwater aquariums go through a phase. Aquarists may experience this phase between 3 and 6 months, but it can happen sooner or not at all. During this phase, a large algal bloom may occur throughout the aquarium. The intensity of the algae growth varies but I have seen some very green aquariums, completely covered in hair algae or other species of algae.

    If you’re at this stage, the only thing to do is try to manually remove as much Green Hair Algae as possible. I do not recommend removing or cleaning rocks. Leave the rocks alone and use your hands to remove the hair algae. I have managed to use a turkey baster to help suck up algae off rockwork. As long as you do not feed the algae with many more nutrients, it should choke itself out and die out on its own.

    Nutrient Imbalanced Aquarium

    An imbalance of nutrients can be the cause of your algal issues. Green Hair Algae will use whatever free nutrients are in the water and can dominate the aquarium because of it. Algae is also very efficient at consuming nutrients. It’s important to keep an eye on the nitrate and phosphate levels in your fish tank. Focus more on eradicating phosphate levels, because Green Hair Algae uses that more for growth. You feed your aquarium, and your fish poop it’s expected to have trace amounts of both nitrates and phosphates but you do not want high levels of either.

    If you have an aquarium full of hair algae or a refugium with macroalgae, you may read 0 nitrates and 0 phosphates when you test your water. This could be because the algae consumes the nutrients before they become testable. I recommend testing your water with the API Reef Master Test Kit (Affiliate Link). It gives you test solutions for nitrates, phosphates, calcium, and carbonate hardness. If you cannot get your phosphate levels under control, consider looking into a Media Reactor, like the Aquatop Media Reactor (Affiliate Link). You can place different filter media such as PhosBan, PhosGuard, or GFO Phosphate Reducers to help get your phosphates to more manageable levels. Follow the instructions, and slowly lower your phosphate levels.

    How Much Are You Feeding?

    The more we feed, the more nutrients that are introduced into the water. It’s very important to not overfeed your aquarium. We are all guilty of doing so because it’s one of the most exciting aspects of keeping fish. Keep an eye on the portions you give your fish. Guarantee that what you give them is being eaten and not lost in the live rock or sucked up by the filtration system. The best solution to removing nutrients from your aquarium is through water changes. You can easily remove nitrates, phosphates, and food debris by changing the dirty aquarium water and introducing fresh saltwater.

    What Type of Water Are You Using?

    This can be very important for the types of nutrients that are introduced into your aquarium. If you’re using tap water for your water changes, you may be adding a cocktail of nutrients that help promote algae growth. You don’t really know how clean your tap water is. Providing clean water during water changes and water top-offs guarantees you are not introducing nitrates, phosphates, copper, or other contaminants that may be in tap water.

    If possible, I recommend doing water changes and topping off your aquarium with RO water. Small RO units are fairly cheap. For example, the AQUATICLIFE RO Buddie can be purchased from Amazon. You’ll only need a sink that can accept a screw-on adapter and to change the unit’s filters every few months. If you do not have access to RO water or don’t want to buy an RO unit, many stores and fish stores sell RO or distilled water.

    Are You Changing The Water Too Much?

    Again, changing water, especially with tap water can add too many new nutrients into your fish tank that algae will soak up. If you test your nitrates and phosphates, and the results aren’t at dangerous levels, consider taking a step back and cutting down on water changes for a couple of weeks to see if your tap water is introducing unwanted contaminants. You can also test your tap water for nitrates and phosphates with the API test kit suggested above the same way you test aquarium water.

    Does Your Filter Need Cleaning?

    The filter is the place where debris, excess food, and other gunk go to rest. Think back to the last time your sponges and media have been replaced. Physically look at the sponges to see if there is a build-up of brown sludge on them. If so, it might be time to give your filter a cleaning. I’ll often rinse off dirty sponges in old aquarium water instead of replacing them outright. I do this to remove the sludge and gunk from the sponge. However, I can put the sponge back into the aquarium to not lose the beneficial bacteria growing on it. Unfortunately, some sponges are too far gone and need replacing.

    Light Schedule and Intensity

    The next thing I recommend looking at is your lighting schedule. The duration and intensity of your light schedule will affect photosynthetic opportunities for corals and algae. We want to provide plenty of light for our coral, but not too much light that encourages algae to take over. It might be a good idea to cut down on your photoperiod. There is no way to exactly determine what light schedule you should be on. This will be determined by the type of light you have, the strength of the light system, and the type of coral you are growing.

    Light From Window

    Sometimes an aquarium gets set up a little too close to a window. Aquariums close to a window may be getting too much ambient light causing algae to grow. The best solution for this is to hang up a blackout curtain over the window so light doesn’t reach the fish tank. This is the most practical solution for this unless you opt-in to moving the aquarium to a space with little to no ambient lighting.

    Not Enough Clean-Up Crew

    Check to see how much clean-up crew you have hanging around in the aquarium. If your water parameters are in a safe range, consider leveling up your clean-up crew. Their population will drop over time in a saltwater fish tank, so they’ll likely need to be replenished at some point. Maybe that time is now for your aquarium.

    A healthy clean-up crew can mean the difference between a thriving aquarium, and one that may be consumed with algal issues. A clean-up crew can consist of a variety of critters. Utilizing each is important because everything has a niche that needs filling. There are many options to choose from, you can check out my article Saltwater Aquarium Clean-up Crew for some ideas.

    Final Notes

    This guide is meant to discuss how to remove green hair algae from your aquarium. I have provided the most common reasons you’ll see hair algae blooming in your fish tank, and a handful of solutions to help eradicate it. I try to find the cheapest and most natural route to eradicate nuisance algae. These solutions will also help you continue good husbandry of your saltwater aquarium. I do not like using chemicals in fish tanks unless I really have to. If I can’t tackle the problem at the source, it’s likely the algae will come back over time. Hopefully, this guide helps you recover from a green-haired algae takeover. Remember to be patient and expect to fight this until you find the root of the problem.

  • How To Setup Planted Aquarium for Neon Tetra

    How To Setup Planted Aquarium for Neon Tetra

    Neon Tetras are some of the most iconic fish in this hobby. Anyone who has walked into a pet store can probably identify that familiar red and blue coloration. Many people choose Neon Tetras because they are commonly found in pet stores, are vibrant in color, and are incredibly cheap. It makes sense why they are so popular. This guide will discuss what you need to set up a planted aquarium for Neon Tetras.

    Aquarium For Neon Tetras

    To set up an enclosure for Neon Tetras, you’ll first want to start with acquiring a fish tank. A small school of Neon Tetras will do great in a 10-gallon fish tank. You’re always welcome to go for a larger aquarium, but I do not recommend going smaller. If you have an aquarium stored away that you’re thinking of using but don’t remember how many gallons of water it holds, check out some of the Standard Aquarium Sizes to figure out what size it is. If you’re planning on only keeping Neon Tetras, and perhaps a few snails or shrimp, 10 Neons should do great in a 10-gallon aquarium.

    Filtration For Aquarium

    The next thing you’ll want to consider when setting up a planted aquarium for Neon Tetras is what type of filtration to use. The most common ones I suggest are sponge filters or power filters, especially for smaller fish tanks. In most cases, Neon Tetra’s bioloads are minimal so a combination of plants, filtration, and water changes should be plenty to keep your aquarium clean.

    Sponge filters will take up some real estate in the fish tank, but are fairly cheap to set up, use a very small amount of electricity, and provide a lot of surface area for beneficial bacteria. All you’ll need to set up a sponge filter, is an air pump, airline tubing, and the sponge filter. Most air pumps come included with airline tubing. If you’re new to the hobby, check out Sponge Filter Use Cleaning and Extra Tips to learn a few things about this type of filtration.

    Sponge Filter Zoomed

    If you want a more in-depth filtration experience consider getting a power filter. There are many types of power filters available to choose from. Most will get the job done but my favorites are the Fluval – Aquaclear Power Filters or the Seachem – Tidal Power Aquarium Filters. I love these filters mostly because of their customizable and large media baskets. You can swap filter media to whatever you desire and they’ll continue to work well. Neon Tetras don’t have an incredibly large bio-load, but it never hurts to have a good filter running on the fish tank. If you’re shopping around for power filters and are not sold on these, take a look at 7 Best Hang-On Back Power Filters For Freshwater Aquariums to see many other options.

    Lights For Plants

    You’ll need to purchase lights for your aquarium that will complement the plants you’re planning on growing. Some plants do better under more intense light while others do great under medium to low light conditions. If you’re new, I’d start with plants that are very tolerant of lower light conditions and that are not incredibly demanding. I have gotten great results growing plants such as vals, crypts, and anubias with the NICREW Full Spectrum Planted LED Light. It’s a great budget light and a solid introduction to LED aquarium lighting.

    Aquarium Heater

    Unless you live in an area where the ambient temperature is always between 72° and 78°F, you’ll likely need an aquarium heater. You’ll have to pick out the one that will work best for your aquarium’s dimensions. There are a lot of brands that make fantastic heaters. If you’re in the market for a heater, take a look at 6 Best Aquarium Heaters for Your Fish Tank. There are many different options to choose from, I have always had good results from the Fluval M-Series Heaters but I have also used many other brands like the Aqueon Pro Series Heaters that have worked great. Remember, that heaters are the pieces of equipment that are likely to fault out in your fish tank.

    You can take precautions by purchasing an Inkbird Temperature Controller to help keep the heater from causing irreversible damage to your fish if it were to malfunction. An internal aquarium thermostat will also give you a good idea of your water temperature.

    Decorations and Plants

    There are plenty of different decorations to choose from when setting up an aquarium. You can add rocks, live plants, driftwood, artificial decor, and more. What type of decorations you choose is entirely up to you. The most important thing is that what you put in the aquarium is fish-safe. I love aquariums that look and feel like a slice of nature, so my fish tanks are usually dominated by plants, wood, and rockwork.

    Substrate

    A substrate is essentially the “ground” of your aquarium. I have seen many different brands, types, colors, and textures of substrates in my years of fishkeeping. However, if you’re considering setting up a planted tank, I assume you’re looking for a natural look to your aquarium. For planted fish tanks, my go-to substrate is CaribSea Eco-Complete. This substrate is nice because its dark color makes the decorations and fish swimming above pop in color. The opposite occurs when you use a white-colored substrate.

    Another great substrate used for planted aquariums is the Fluval Stratum for Freshwater Fish Tanks. I don’t use this one too often, but many fishkeepers and hobbyists love the quality and look it provides. It also comes with the perks of being very porous to help plants root faster and it helps maintain neutral to acidic water parameters. Before choosing a substrate, consider doing some research on the effects it may have on your plants.

    Rocks, Driftwood, etc.

    Adding rocks and driftwood to your fish tank will surely add a natural-looking touch. Some species of plants and mosses can be grown off of driftwood, and plants growing around stones can make your fish tank look incredible. I recommend giving your driftwood and rocks a good rinse before adding them to an aquarium. However, do not use any household chemicals because those can be dangerous for fish and invertebrates.

    Many aquarists boil their driftwood to help remove the tannins they will likely release into your fish tank. Tannins aren’t dangerous, they are actually beneficial for your fish. However, tannins will cause your fish tank water to turn tea color or sometimes even darker than that.

    Certain rocks can alter the water parameters in your fish tank. For example, limestone or Texas Holey Rock will increase your fish tank’s water hardness and pH level. This is fantastic for high pH, hard water-loving fish, but that’s not the case for Neon Tetras. Lava rock and slate are pretty safe options, but there are plenty of rocks out there that won’t alter your water parameters. Unlike driftwood, do not boil or bake your rocks.

    Plants

    This article is specific to setting up a planted tank for Neon Tetras, so I’ll list a handful of plants that are very easy to care for to get someone started.

    • Anubias are a fantastic option for a planted aquarium. They are very tolerant of low light conditions and have beautiful broad leaves. You can wedge them in between driftwood and grow them out of the substrate. If you plant them in substrate, ensure part of its rhizome is exposed. Otherwise, the rhizome will likely rot and eventually kill off the plant.
    • Java Fern is another great option for a planted aquarium, especially when you’re first starting out. It has a lance-shaped leaf and is usually a nice vibrant green color. This plant is also fairly tolerant of lower light conditions. It’s a great choice for a background plant
    • There are many different species of crypts. You’ll see some that’ll grow much taller than others, and you’ll also see a few color variations. This plant usually grows very well in an aquarium and may even dominate parts of a fish tank if you let them grow out. After breaking down an aquarium, i had a singular root run the full length of my fish tank. The aquarium was about 30″ long.
    • You can’t go wrong with attaching mosses to driftwood. The most common you’ll likely see are java moss or Christmas moss. Moss is a great way to grow something green in an aquarium without losing much open swimming space.
    • There are quite a few different species of Val. The most common i see are Jungle Vals, Italian Vals, and Corkscrew Vals. From experience, they grow very easily and they’ll grow to the top of your fish tank. Once they’re acclimated, they will quickly begin growing vertically and horizontally, taking over much of the background of your aquarium.
    • Pearlweed are very easy-to-grow plants that can be added to a planted fish tank. They’re great for backgrounds and will often propagate quickly. A few sometimes can turn into a jungle.

    Adding Neon Tetras into the Aquarium

    Before adding Neon Tetras to your aquarium, guarantee that your fish tank is established and has gone through the Nitrogen Cycle. The Aquarium Co-Op does a great job explaining what the Nitrogen Cycle is. As a quick summary, your aquarium has to go through a nitrogen cycle when it’s first set up. There are different ways to do it, but I suggest a fishless cycle if possible. Even better, if you know someone with an established fish tank, or own one yourself, you can take filter media, substrate, a rock, or any other hard surface (where bacteria can colonize) and put it into the new fish tank. This will seed the new aquarium with beneficial bacteria. Although it will not fully cycle the new fish tank, it should at least speed up the Nitrogen Cycle process.

    The result of your nitrogen cycle will result in your aquarium reading 0 ammonia, and 0 nitrites, and you’ll likely have a hint of nitrates. You can test for these with the API Freshwater Master Test Kit.

    Final Notes

    Neon Tetras are fantastic fish to add to a freshwater aquarium. They look even better in a freshwater planted tank. Their magnificent blue and red color pops in an aquarium full of plants. Due to inbreeding, they’re a little more sensitive than other fish but are still a very sought-after species.

  • Different Ways To Make a Hanging Aquarium Light Stand

    Different Ways To Make a Hanging Aquarium Light Stand

    There are many different ways to hang aquarium lights. You can hang them from ceilings, or shelves, or build something that will save you from having to make holes in walls and ceilings. Ideally, it’s best to build or purchase something that is both functional and aesthetically pleasing. You’ll have to decide how to hang your aquarium lights and what materials to use. This article will hopefully provide you with different options to choose from.

    Hanging Lights From a Ceiling

    If you’re handy with house renovations, have done some DIY work, or have used a drill/screwdriver in the past, you may be good to hang your lights from the ceiling. Some very easy-to-use Adjustable Light Suspension Kits on Amazon can help you achieve this. A measuring tape, hammer, and drill/screwdriver will likely be the tools you’ll need to do this.

    I also recommend covering your aquarium temporarily with a blanket, tarp, or other cover so that debris from drywall doesn’t fall into your aquarium. This will also help provide some cushion if you drop your tools that can crack your glass. I do not like hanging lights from my ceilings because if I decide to move the fish tank, I’ll likely have to patch holes and repaint. There are plenty of other ways to hang lights without messing with your drywall.

    Build Your Own Hanging Light Stand

    Building a light stand is something that can be very easy to do, and can save you a lot of money. I have made one using conduit, speed thread straps, and spray paint. You’ll have to bend the conduit to your desired length, spray paint it, and then screw it onto your aquarium stand. It’s very straightforward and will cost around 20 dollars to make. The conduit holds the KingLED Grow Light I put on top of it with ease. Here is a video showcasing the process.

    You can use a lot of different materials if you’re not interested in using conduit. Another one that might work well is PVC piping. You are limited to your imagination when building your hanging light stand. I decided to go this route when building my aquarium because, with this, I do not have to drill holes into the wall or ceiling.

    Build Into Aquarium Canopy

    You’ll occasionally see aquariums built with massive canopies above them. It is reasonable to assume that you can use the space inside the canopy to hide lights. If your aquarium has a canopy, you might have braces running through it that can be used for hanging lights. It could be as easy as screwing hooks into the bracing of the canopy, and then hanging your lights from the hooks.

    If your canopy does not have bracing, you’ll have to add them yourself or find a different method to hang your lights. Cutting and screwing wood into the canopy will probably be the easiest route. Besides wood, you can also use aluminum for bracing instead. Once you have that made, adding a hook should be very easy.

    Hang Lights From Shelving Above Your Aquarium

    If you have shelving built above your fish tank or are looking to use the space above your aquarium, you might be able to hang lights under the shelf or build a shelf and then hang lights underneath. Most light fixtures are fairly light, so a lot of shelves should handle the additional weight. Before trying this, look up your shelving max weight capacity to guarantee they can handle the weight. It would be terrible for the shelving unit to collapse onto your aquarium.

    Shelving on top of an aquarium could be great if you’re tight on space and need more room for fish food, filter media, and other supplies. I have never tried this method of hanging lights, but have seen it work well. It looks nice with floating shelves (Amazon Affiliate Link).

    How High To Hang Light Over Aquarium?

    It all depends on the light, the intensity, and what you are keeping in the aquarium. I usually try to keep hanging lights about a foot above the aquarium as a safe bet. Depending on the size of the light compared to the aquarium, a foot of clearance will pretty much guarantee you have access to the fish tank without a light getting in your way. The light spread will increase the higher you go, but you will also lose overall strength the further your light is from the aquarium.

    Final Notes

    There are countless ways to hang lights to illuminate an aquarium. You can make the build as simple or as complex as you want. The most important thing is that the lights are securely placed and they do not risk falling into the aquarium. If you’re not sold on hanging lights you can consider getting lights that sit on top of the aquarium instead.

    How to Make an Aquarium Light Stand for Hanging Lights

    Finding a way to create an aquarium light stand for hanging lights can be challenging. Most aquarium lights have legs that extend to the aquarium’s frame, making setup quite easy. However, some lights need to be hung above the fish tank. This article will discuss one…

  • How To Heat an Aquarium Without a Heater

    How To Heat an Aquarium Without a Heater

    Heating an aquarium, especially during cold winter months with a power outage can be incredibly challenging. Winters can be brutal, and cold can creep into older and poorly insulated homes very quickly. Although many fish have a fair amount of temperature tolerances, it’s important to have a plan ready in case the temperatures drop below that threshold.

    Besides power outages, having dozens of aquariums running individual heaters can be expensive. You use up a lot of outlets, spend money on replacements, and risk purchasing a faulty heater which can ruin a fish tank. Warming an aquarium in different ways might be a better option. This guide will discuss many options to warm your aquarium during power outages and a recommended method to warm multiple aquariums to help lower those high electricity bills.

    Heating the Room

    A room with many fish tanks is called a fish room, and heating a fish room is often cheaper than heating individual fish tanks. If you have a room completely devoted to your fish tank hobby, it might be time to toss the aquarium heaters and switch to something that will heat the whole room instead. Heating the room instead of individually heating aquariums has a few perks:

    • Cost saving
    • Heaters won’t break in your aquarium
    • No more heater replacement
    • Saves outlet space

    I have dug around to see the best way to heat a fish room. Many aquarists suggest using an Oil Filled Radiator Heater, such as the PELONIS Oil Filled Radiator Heater. As a bonus, I would recommend also using a fan, like the Genesis 20″ Box Fan, on a low setting to help disperse the heat around the room. You’ll want to choose the heater and fan that is appropriate for your room’s size.

    The reason many fishkeepers enjoy using this type of heater is that it uses less electricity compared to a space heater, and also doesn’t get as hot, which lowers the chance of it causing a fire. You’ll have to look to see whether your heaters use more electricity compared to the Oil Filled Radiator Heater before deciding whether this switch makes sense.

    Add a Well-Fitted Lid

    Equipment such as hang on back filters, circulation pumps, and lights create heat as a byproduct while working that will warm your fish tank. A lot of heat from water is lost at the surface. Something as simple as adding an aquarium glass top can help warm a fish tank. When you add a lid to your aquarium, you are essentially creating a barrier between warm fish tank water and cool ambient air. It takes longer to alter temperature through glass than a large opening such as the top of a fish tank.

    This method isn’t ideal, because you may not reach a desired aquarium temperature, and you might not have enough equipment running to warm the fish tank. Also, keeping a stable temperature will be impossible because you’re ideally at the whim of the ambient temperature and whatever equipment you have running. There are a lot of glass top options on Amazon, you’ll just have to match the available options with the dimensions of your fish tank.

    How To Heat Aquarium During Power Outage

    If you’re stuck in a power outage and do not have a way to warm your aquarium, there are a few things you can do to help your fish tank when your heater is out of commission. These are temporary solutions that can provide relief for your slowly cooling aquarium. You can try one method or both to help keep your aquarium warm.

    Wrapping a Blanket Around Your Aquarium

    If your power is out, and the temperature in your home is slowly dropping, you may be worried that your fish tank temperature will also drop to dangerous levels. A temporary but quick solution is to wrap your aquarium with a blanket. The blanket will help insulate your fish tank for some time while you wait for the power to return. Besides a blanket, you can use styrofoam or something like FOAMULAR insulation to temporarily protect your aquarium from the cold. Styrofoam and FOAMULAR are great at keeping heat in and cold out.

    Heating Aquarium With Water Bottles

    You can likely boil some water if you have access to a gas stove during power outages. In a pinch, you can boil some water, place the hot water into a plastic bottle, or a bottle with a secure lid, and place that into the aquarium. The water will slowly release the heat into the aquarium. You can repeat this process until the power comes back on. If you have a small fish tank, keep an eye on your aquarium’s thermometer so the temperature doesn’t get too warm. I recommend a battery-operated air pump, like the AquaMiracle Battery Powered Aquarium Air Pump, to help move the water around as well as provide much-needed oxygen to your fish for elongated power outages.

    Keep Cool Water Fish

    If you’re not attempting to warm your aquarium but instead are trying to avoid using a heater but still want to keep fish in an aquarium, consider purchasing cool water fish. Many different species of fish will do great in colder water. Goldfish and White Cloud Mountain Minnows are just two of many different species that are great options. Regardless of what you decide to keep, it’s important to research their preferred habitat type, tank mate compatibility, aquarium sizing needs, and other husbandry requirements before purchasing them.

    Final Notes

    There are many different options to warm your fish tank without a heater. Unfortunately, most of these options are only temporary solutions for very short periods. If you want to rid yourself of your heater altogether, you’ll have to consider cool water fish or other cold water-loving animals to keep in your aquarium. Check out the 6 Best Aquarium Heaters for Freshwater & Saltwater Fish Tanks if your heater is on its last legs or has recently broken. If you have your own method for keeping your aquarium warm, let me know!

  • Do I Need a Circulation Pump For My Aquarium?

    Do I Need a Circulation Pump For My Aquarium?

    Aquarium circulation pumps come in many different shapes and sizes from countless brands in this hobby. Sometimes called an aquarium powerhead or powerhead, these pieces of equipment are primarily used to move water around an aquarium. The question we are looking to answer is do you need a circulation pump for your aquarium?

    Just like any other topic in this hobby, it simply depends. I cannot provide a clear-cut answer because there are so many variables within this hobby. I’ll cover some of the reasons in finer detail, but I know I won’t be able to highlight every reason. A large part of this hobby is research, luckily there is a plethora of information available on every fish, coral, and ecosystem type we keep in a glass box. This article will discuss some of the reasons it makes sense to set up a circulation pump.

    Freshwater Aquarium vs. Saltwater Aquarium

    One thing to think about when deciding whether to set up a circulation pump for your aquarium is whether you are keeping freshwater or saltwater. Generally speaking, saltwater fish tanks will likely require more flow, especially if you are running a reef tank. Corals don’t move, so food, oxygen, nutrients, and everything else they need must come to them. However, the amount of flow completely depends on the species of coral you have.

    Freshwater aquariums will generally tolerate much less flowing water or no flow at all. Sometimes a filtration system is enough flow to keep your freshwater aquarium thriving. A planted aquarium might not have any air pumps, filters, or circulation pumps and be completely dependent on the oxygen produced by the plants. At the end of the day, it is completely dependent on what type of freshwater aquarium you are running. For example, a river-themed freshwater tank will benefit from having more flow, compared to a planted tank.

    Small vs. Large Aquarium

    Another thing to think about when figuring out whether a powerhead is necessary is thinking about aquarium sizes. Small aquariums often get by without requiring a circulation pump. Flow from an air pump or filtration system is usually enough to keep the aquarium going. An aquarium circulation pump may be overkill for nano tanks, unless you are attempting to create a specific habitat, like a riverbed.

    Large aquariums may need a powerhead. If you have areas in the aquarium where detritus builds up, you may want to get something facing that general direction to stir up the build-up of waste. In a saltwater aquarium, you will want to consider setting up a circulation pump to provide enough flow for your coral.

    What Do You Plan on Keeping?

    Fish come from all types of habitats, it is important to know what habitats they are from. It was mentioned earlier, but if your fish comes from a fast-flowing river system, you may want to build your aquarium around that. A circulation pump may be the exact thing you need to achieve that. However, if you are keeping fish from slow-moving waters, such as lakes and ponds, you may not need a powerhead because the flow from your filter might be enough to keep your fish happy.

    Also, fish with long fins, slow-moving fish, and very small fish may struggle with certain circulation pumps. I would not recommend keeping a long-fin betta fish in an aquarium with a powerhead. The betta moves slowly and has long flowy fins that can get pulled into the spinning fans of the powerhead.

    Plants & Circulation Pumps

    Keeping plants and circulation pumps may or may not be a good idea. In a small aquarium, I often do not recommend doing so because the current created by the powerhead can very easily tear the leaves of your aquatic plants. The filter should provide plenty of flow in a nano planted tank. In a larger aquarium, that has more open space, it’s possible to have an aquarium circulation pump running without damaging plants. Many different circulation pumps with varying sizes will do the job for you.

    If you’re looking for a very small amount of added flow, check out the Hydor Koralia Nano Circulation Pump. This pump only pushes 240 GPH and might be just the thing if you’re looking for some extra flow. If you need more flow, some massive powerheads can push over 1000 gallons of water per hour, like the Fluval Sea CP4 Circulation Pump. There are many options out there, so you’ll have to shop around to find what will work best for you.

    Coral and Circulation Pumps

    When you work with corals, you’ll learn that each species has its unique personality and needs. Many coral species love varying types of flow. For example, most stony corals will do better with high indirect flow, while other species, such as zoanthids often do better with a gentler flow. You may need a stronger powerhead for a large aquarium with SPS coral, compared to a large aquarium with zoanthids or soft corals. Too much direct flow can irritate certain coral species. This will cause them to close up and can lead to their demise if the flow intensity does not change. If you see your coral closed up, you might be providing it with too much or too little flow.

    Final Notes

    There are probably plenty more reasons why you should or shouldn’t use a circulation pump for your aquarium. The goal of this article is not to list every single reason, but to help new and old aquarists think outside of the box as to why something like extra flow might be needed. Powerheads are very handy tools when used correctly. They can help remove dead spots from aquariums, help bring nutrients to corals, and much more. I share some more information on flow rates on Different Aquarium Water Flow Rate Requirements.

  • How to Prepare Driftwood for a Fish Tank

    How to Prepare Driftwood for a Fish Tank

    Driftwood can be an excellent piece of decor to add to a fish tank. It is often the centerpiece of many aquariums. Whether you’re looking for branchy, large, or small pieces is entirely up to you but they are out there. You can find aquarium driftwood for sale at most pet stores, in the wild, or online. If you grab driftwood from the outdoors, consider the dangers pesticide or insecticide the wood has absorbed may have on your aquarium. Regardless of where you get your wood from, it’s a good idea to sterilize it and prepare it before use. This article will focus on how to prepare driftwood before adding it to your fish tank.

    1. Selecting Your Driftwood

    You’ll want to start by finding that perfect piece of driftwood for your fish tank. Fish tank driftwood comes in all shapes and sizes, so make sure the piece you’re using is appropriate for your aquarium. Consider how hard or easy it may be to clean the glass and gravel vacuum around it when making your decision.

    There are countless types of driftwood for sale. You can likely find them at your local fish store, or purchase them online on different marketplaces including Amazon. The ones I commonly use are Spiderwood, Mopani Wood, and Malaysian Driftwood.

    Physically inspect your piece of driftwood before picking it out. I recommend you avoid pieces that have a lot of sharp edges unless you’re handy with a chisel or tool that can smooth out the piece. Also, look for potential rotting or decaying that may be occurring. You’ll want to avoid pieces like that. If you find a piece of wood outdoors, try and identify what species of wood it is. Some species are not safe for aquarium use, especially many pieces of pine. You’ll have to do some research to figure out the species and whether it’s safe to use as driftwood for aquariums.

    2. Cleaning Your Driftwood

    The easiest place to start with cleaning your driftwood is to simply run it through some warm water. This will allow you to remove dirt, debris, and other gunk that might be sticking to your wood. I recommend using an old toothbrush or a clean brush of some sort to get in there to remove debris. We want to add as little foreign contaminants into our aquarium to lessen the chance of disease being introduced. Do not use cleaning supplies, like soap or bleach when cleaning your driftwood. These chemicals are not safe for fish tanks and can be dangerous to fish if not rinsed properly.

    Cleaning Driftwood with Vinegar

    Many people consider this step overkill, but it is an option for someone who is more cautious in what they add to their aquarium. You can clean your driftwood with vinegar. There’s no exact science as to how much vinegar to use, but dilute some in a bucket of water and drop your driftwood in. It is safer to use vinegar as a cleaning solution compared to soap or bleach. Although it may not be as powerful of a disinfectant as bleach or soap, it is the better choice. I would personally skip this part to avoid risking anything getting soaked in by the wood and then releasing it into your fish tank. We will also be boiling the wood which should remove any pests as well.

    3. Boiling Driftwood For Fish Tanks

    Many types of driftwood release tannins that will tint your aquarium water a tea/brown color. Tannins are not harmful in any way, but not everyone enjoys the look of brown water. Some tannins are very beneficial for soft water, low pH-loving fish, and when done right can look incredible. Many aquarists use driftwood, Indian Almond Leaves, black peat, and other organic matter to achieve a blackwater aquarium. Aquariumscience.org goes into great detail on what a blackwater aquarium is and has fantastic images of them in action.

    Boiling driftwood is a common tactic that can be used to help remove harmful organisms and assist in removing tannins. This is easily done with smaller pieces but can be a bit more challenging for large pieces of driftwood. Smaller pieces of driftwood can be put into a large pot, placed on a stove, and boiled for anywhere between 1-2 hours. You should do your best to keep your pieces fully submerged. Boiling driftwood will help remove tannins from the water, but it doesn’t always completely do its job, and some tannins may continue to leach out even after boiling.

    There is only so much you can do with larger pieces of driftwood. If you have a pot large enough to hold some of it, you can boil whatever is submerged, and then rotate it in the pot so a new portion of it will be submerged for boiling. If not, you can boil water in a kettle or some sort of container, and then pour the boiling water over the driftwood piece. You’ll want to do this a few times over all parts of the wood. This will likely not remove too many tannins but it will help sterilize driftwood to make it safer for your fish.

    4. Soaking Your Driftwood

    After boiling driftwood, it is still possible for it to float and release tannins. The next step of soaking your driftwood is optional, but it can further lower tannin release into your water and help your driftwood sink if you have a floater. All you have to do is place your driftwood in a bucket or container and fill it with fresh water. If it floats, you’ll want to let it sit there for days to weeks so it can absorb water which will cause it to sink, eventually. If you see tannins and want to remove them, you will want to change the water daily to remove the tinted water.

    To see whether the driftwood will have any effects on your water parameters, consider testing the water’s pH and hardness before putting it into the bucket, and then test the water in the bucket after a day or two while the wood is soaking. If you see a rise or drop in hardness or pH, the driftwood may be altering the water’s chemistry.

    Many aquarists do not want to wait for their driftwood to sink, so some will use super glue, like the Gorilla Glue Super Glue Gel XL to adhere their driftwood to a piece of rock. Slate rock is commonly used as the base. The slate rock will be buried by substrate so it’s ok if it doesn’t fit the aesthetic of your aquarium. You can use whatever rock will work best for you, and you can also use aquarium-safe silicone, like SELSIL Aquarium Silicone instead of super glue. However, keep in mind that silicone takes a little longer to dry.

    5. Final Cleaning

    I recommend doing a final scrub of the driftwood with a clean brush to remove debris. It’s pretty much ready to be placed in your aquarium at this point. Once it is placed in your fish tank, you will see whether the wood is affecting the clarity of your water. If you see your water begin turning brown from your wood, you can use activated carbon, like Boyd Enterprises Chemipure or Seachem Purigen as well as water changes to help remove it from the water.

    Does Driftwood Need to be Cleaned?

    Technically you don’t have to clean your driftwood, but the negative effects that come with not doing so are not worth it. There can be organic matter and debris in your wood, there can be harmful bacteria or pests that can negatively affect your fish and invertebrates. It’s better to stay on the side of caution and give driftwood for fish tanks a good cleaning, especially if you find a piece outside.

    Final Notes

    There are many different types of driftwood for aquariums. Some aquarists prefer purchasing them from fish stores or online, while others go out and find what they need in the wild. Be mindful of the ethics and legality of taking wood from preserves, natural spaces, and other public areas. Also, keep note of possible pesticide applications or chemical use if you plan on taking wood from outside. These things can be dangerous to fish and invertebrates.

  • Can I Leave My Aquarium Light on 24/7?

    Can I Leave My Aquarium Light on 24/7?

    The question of whether running aquarium lights all day and night comes up constantly, especially when talking to newer fish keepers. You walk into a fish store and see countless lights beaming at aquariums all day long. It makes you wonder if that’s okay to replicate at home. In my opinion, no I do not think you should be running your aquarium lights at all times of the day. The goal when setting up an aquarium is often to mimic the natural habitat of a fish, coral, plant, and/or invertebrate. Part of that means providing a day and night cycle for your inhabitants. Besides this, there are a few other reasons why I recommend not keeping your lights on all day, which will be discussed in this article.

    Rest Period for Fish

    Many species of fish are diurnal, which means they are active during the day and have a rest period at night. Most fish don’t sleep, but they do have periods of rest. This is a time when a fish will wedge itself in between rocks or plants, and remain incredibly still. Their metabolism slows, and it’s time for them to recharge their little fishy bodies. Some fish, like plecos, do this but in reverse, where they are nocturnal and active at night and hide and rest throughout the day. Regardless, providing a dark time for your fish tank will help provide a natural period of activity and rest.

    Having lights on all day can cause your fish to stress more because they are not provided a normal “rest period”. In the wild, they spend most of their day foraging and hunting for food throughout the day and will take refuge between rocks and plants at night. Most of us humans use the night to catch up on sleep and rest, and the same goes for many fish species.

    Spike in Algae Problems

    A constant light cycle increases the chance of your aquarium being plagued with large amounts of algae. Constantly providing a light source for photosynthesis will likely allow different species of algae to wreak havoc on your fish tank. One remedy to fight against algal blooms is actually to cut down on how much light you provide. If you’re fighting an algae problem, take a look at the many ways to Help Remove Algae in Aquariums. Light intensity and duration are both factors to consider when dealing with algae in your aquarium.

    Cost & Replacement

    If you have one aquarium running, your electric bill probably won’t see a difference if you run your lights all day long. However, once the addictive properties of this hobby overwhelm you, you’ll likely have 3, 4, or more fish tanks set up over a short period. Having your fish tank lights running all day will drive up the price of your electric bill. On top of that, the life of your lights will surely decrease and there is probably an increased chance of your lights burning out the longer you have them running.

    Exception To This

    There are a couple of exceptions that would allow you to keep your aquarium lights on 24/7. Both of these are related to plants. In the freshwater world, if you keep an aquarium with only plants, and no other animal, you could technically run your lights all day long. I still wouldn’t do it, because your plants likely don’t photosynthesize all day long, but it’s an option.

    Second, many saltwater enthusiasts have refugium or macroalgae reactors that have a light running all day and night. Some do it with purpose, and others do it because they’re lazy or don’t have a timer to automatically turn the lights off. However, the idea behind this is to allow macroalgae, whether it’s chaetomorpha or some other species to constantly have a light source in the refugium or reactor which will allow them to grow. Their growth uptakes nutrients like nitrates and phosphates which will aid in keeping algae from growing in the display tank. Keeping the light on 24/7 also helps stabilize the pH in the aquarium. However, from reading people’s experiences, a similar result can be achieved if you simply run your refugium on an inverse cycle to your display tank.

    Aquarium Lighting Recommendations

    I recommend providing anywhere between 8 and 12 hours of light over your fish tank. Deciding on the specific photoperiod will depend on your specific fish tank’s needs. If your aquarium gets natural light from a window, it will likely not require a 12-hour light period. If your fish tank is in a dark room, it may thrive under 12 hours of light. It is all experimentation to see what works best for your fish tank. Everything is dependent on your plant species, environment, light intensity, and many other factors. Regardless, I do not recommend anything over 12 hours in most cases.

    Many aquarium lights now have timers/controllers that work well with your light systems. For instance, the NICREW Saltwater Aquarium Light has a built-in timer that allows you to adjust your photoperiod to your needs. The freshwater counterpart to this is the NICREW SkyLED Aquarium Plant Light, it also has a built-in controller that allows you to adjust different aspects of your light. They can set the photoperiod, and have a ramp-up and ramp-down feature that will mimic sunrise and sunset.

    Some saltwater lights have apps that allow you to customize your light intensity, colors, and scheduling. The Ecotech Radion XR15 LED Light is the perfect example of this, but it comes with a high price tag. If that price point is too high, there are cheaper lights such as the NICREW Hyper Reef LED Light that don’t have an app backing them up but still pack a punch when combined with a NICREW HyperReef Light Controller.

    If you already have an aquarium light that has neither a controller nor a timer built into it, you can still run your lights on a timer. As someone who is lazy and does not want to turn the lights on and off every day, I invested in a very cheap plug-in timer, similar to the BN-LINK BND-60. This timer is very easy to set up and should take away the chore of turning your lights on and off.

    Final Notes

    Keeping a steady lighting schedule is great for your fish, and is what should be done to help mimic your aquarium inhabitant’s natural environment. Avoid running your lights 24/7 to help prevent potential algae blooms and for your fish’s health. Whether you do this by switching your lights on/off manually or using a timer/controller to make it hands-off, is completely up to you.