Category: Animal Guide

  • 12 Yellow Tropical Fish for a Freshwater Aquarium

    12 Yellow Tropical Fish for a Freshwater Aquarium

    A splash of bright color can bring any aquarium to life, and few choices are as eye-catching as yellow freshwater aquarium fish. From subtle golden hues to bold contrasts like yellow and black freshwater fish, these species are a favorite among aquarists for their beauty and lively presence. Whether you’re looking for vibrant blue and yellow tropical fish or want to highlight the natural glow of fish that are yellow, there are plenty of options that thrive in a home tank. Adding a yellow fish in aquarium setups not only enhances visual appeal but can also create a stunning contrast against plants, driftwood, and other tank mates, making them an excellent choice for beginners and seasoned hobbyists alike.

    These fish are fantastic options for freshwater aquariums. Be advised that not all of these fish are compatible with one another. It’s important to do research on each fish and learning about their compatibility with other fish before purchasing. Also, consider taking a look at my other article, 10 Red Tropical Fish for Your Freshwater Fish Tank, for more unique fish coloration options.

    1. Gold Barb

    The Gold Barb is an excellent choice as a yellow freshwater aquarium fish. That’s because it combines beauty, hardiness, and peaceful behavior. Its shimmering golden-yellow body adds a striking pop of color. This is especially true when kept in small schools where their group swimming creates an impressive display. Gold Barbs are hardy and adaptable, and tolerate a wide range of water conditions. This makes them ideal for both beginners and experienced aquarists. They are also peaceful community fish that coexist well with other non-aggressive species. Their vibrant appearance and easy care make Gold Barbs great choices for freshwater aquariums.

    2. Marigold Swordtail

    Marigold swordtails are a fantastic choice for a freshwater aquarium because of their striking golden-yellow coloration. They are also accented by bright orange tones that make them stand out beautifully in community tanks. Their active swimming behavior and elegant sword-like tail add visual appeal. This makes them a centerpiece fish that are not usually overly aggressive. They’re also hardy, adaptable to a wide range of water parameters, and generally easy to care for. This makes them suitable for both beginners and experienced aquarists. Another advantage is their livebearing nature, which can be fascinating to observe for hobbyists interested in breeding and raising fry.

    There are a few downsides to keeping Marigold Swordtails. Males can sometimes display territorial or aggressive behavior, especially if there are too many in a confined space. A good male-to-female ratio is important to maintain harmony in the aquarium. Being livebearers, Swordtails tend to breed rapidly, which can become an annoyance. This is because the population in the tank may quickly outgrow the available space. Additionally, they require ample swimming room and benefit from a well-filtered tank. They may not be the best fit for very small aquariums. Despite these considerations, with proper care and planning, Marigold Swordtails are a lively, colorful, and rewarding addition to a freshwater setup.

    3. Yellow Lab Cichlid

    Yellow Lab Cichlids are among the most popular African cichlids thanks to their vivid, solid yellow coloration. Their bright lemon color brings a splash of contrast to freshwater aquariums, especially in rocky aquascapes that mimic their natural Lake Malawi habitat. Yellow Labs are hardy and long-lived when properly cared for. This makes them a good choice for hobbyists who want a showy yet manageable African cichlid.

    Unlike many of their more aggressive cousins, Yellow Labs can coexist fairly well with other Mbuna cichlids, provided the tank has enough space and hiding spots. Their strong personality and engaging behavior also make them fascinating to watch. If you’re looking for the ultimate splash of yellow, consider setting up a species-only Yellow Lab Cichlid aquarium.

    On the downside, Yellow Lab Cichlids still share some of the territorial tendencies common to cichlids. Males, in particular, may chase or harass others, especially in smaller aquariums. They also require harder, alkaline water that mimics Lake Malawi conditions, so they may not thrive in softer or acidic water without adjustments.

    Their diet needs to be carefully managed as well, since too much protein-rich food can lead to digestive issues like Malawi bloat. Finally, they generally require larger tanks (ideally 55 gallons or more for a small group). This will help reduce aggression and provide enough swimming and territory space. With proper care and setup, though, Yellow Lab Cichlids are one of the most rewarding and visually stunning yellow fish species available for freshwater aquariums.

    4. Gold Nugget Plecostomus

    Gold Nugget Plecos are highly prized freshwater aquarium fish. This is thanks to their striking black bodies covered in bright golden-yellow spots and edged fins. Their unique coloration and armored body make them an instant centerpiece in any tank. This is especially true in aquascapes with driftwood and caves, where they can show off their natural beauty.

    This fish species also serves a functional role. Golden Nugget Plecos help control algae growth while scavenging uneaten food, contributing to tank cleanliness. They’re generally peaceful bottom-dwellers. This makes them suitable companions for a variety of tankmates as long as water quality and space are maintained. For aquarists who enjoy unique and rare species, they’re considered a true “show fish” that adds both beauty and function.

    On the downside, Gold Nugget Plecos do come with challenges. They can grow quite large (up to 8–10 inches), which means they require a spacious aquarium, ideally 55 gallons or more, to thrive. They’re also more sensitive than many pleco species, needing excellent filtration, high oxygen levels, and stable water conditions to stay healthy. Their diet must include more than just algae. They need supplemental foods such as sinking wafers, blanched vegetables, and occasional protein to avoid malnutrition.

    Another consideration is cost. Gold Nugget Plecos are often expensive compared to many other plecos, and their specialized care makes them less suitable for beginners. Despite these drawbacks, for aquarists willing to meet their needs, Gold Nugget Plecos are a stunning and rewarding investment that can become a true highlight of a freshwater setup.

    5. Pineapple Platy

    Pineapple Platies are a vibrant and hardy freshwater fish, named for their fiery yellow-to-reddish-orange gradient that resembles the colors of a ripe pineapple. They’re small, peaceful, and active, making them excellent additions to community aquariums with other non-aggressive fish. Their manageable size (about 2–3 inches) and adaptability to a wide range of water conditions make them beginner-friendly while still being appreciated by experienced aquarists. Like other platies, they’re livebearers, which means they reproduce easily. This is something many aquarists find exciting. Their bright colors, energetic swimming, and ease of care all combine to make Pineapple Platies a cheerful, low-maintenance highlight in freshwater setups.

    The downsides, however, are worth considering. Similarily to Marigold Swordtails, Pineapple Platies breed incredibly easily. This can make overpopulation a problem in smaller tanks if fry aren’t managed or rehomed. Males may occasionally chase females excessively if there isn’t a proper ratio of females to males. This can stress the females over time. A ratio of 3 females to 1 male is recommended. However, more females means more breeding, which is a double-edged sword with these fish.

    While hardy, they still require good water quality and a balanced diet to maintain their color vibrancy and health. They also aren’t as long-lived as some other species. Pineapple Platies typically live 2–3 years, so hobbyists looking for a longer-term companion might find them relatively short-lived. Still, with their brilliant pineapple coloration, peaceful nature, and easy care requirements, Pineapple Platies are a fantastic choice for aquarists who want a splash of tropical color without a lot of fuss.

    6. Gold Doubloon Molly

    Gold Doubloon Mollies are striking yellow and black freshwater fish that instantly stand out with their bold two-tone coloration. They usually showcase a vibrant golden-yellow front half fading into a deep black back half. This contrast makes them a true showpiece in community aquariums, and like other mollies, they’re hardy, adaptable, and beginner-friendly.

    They thrive in a variety of freshwater setups, tolerate a wide range of water conditions, and are peaceful enough to be kept with many other community species. Their livebearing nature can be fun for hobbyists who enjoy breeding. Also, their constant activity and light schooling behavior bring lively energy to the aquarium. The combination of beauty, hardiness, and personality makes Gold Doubloon Mollies a very rewarding option for yellow fish in a freshwater aquarium.

    On the downside, mollies, including the Gold Doubloon variety, come with some challenges. They are sensitive to poor water quality and benefit from slightly brackish conditions (a touch of aquarium salt), which not all community fish can tolerate. Like other livebearers, they breed rapidly, so population control can become an issue if you don’t separate sexes or manage fry. Males may also occasionally harass females if the male-to-female ratio is off, so keeping multiple females per male is recommended.

    Additionally, mollies are prone to diseases such as ich or fin rot if stressed. While generally hardy, they do require attentive care and a stable environment to truly thrive. For aquarists willing to meet their needs, Gold Doubloon Mollies offer an eye-catching mix of color and activity that can really elevate a freshwater tank.

    7. Gold Dojo Loach

    Gold Dojo Loaches, also called Weather Loaches, are fascinating freshwater fish with long, eel-like bodies and a beautiful golden-yellow coloration that makes them stand out in aquariums. They’re known for their quirky, playful behavior. They’ll often burrow into substrate, wriggling around decor, and even swim up to the surface for air thanks to their ability to breathe atmospheric oxygen.

    Many aquarists love them because they’re interactive and seem to have personalities. They may recognize you and become active at feeding time. They’re also hardy, adaptable to a wide range of water conditions, and long-lived (sometimes over 10 years with proper care). Their unique appearance and behavior make them both a conversation starter and a useful addition to tanks, as they help clean up leftover food on the substrate.

    On the downside, Gold Dojo Loaches are not ideal for every aquarium. They grow fairly large, often reaching 8–12 inches in length. This means they require a spacious tank, ideally 55 gallons or more, with a soft substrate that allows them to burrow without injury. They’re also quite active, which means small tanks can stress them and lead to stunted growth. Because they’re opportunistic eaters, very small tankmates (like baby shrimp or fry) may get eaten.

    Another quirk is that they can be escape artists, sometimes jumping out of tanks without secure lids. Finally, they prefer cooler water than many tropical species (around 65–75°F), so they’re not always compatible with standard tropical community setups. Despite these challenges, Gold Dojo Loaches are hardy, fun, and rewarding fish for aquarists who can meet their space and temperature needs. Be advised that Dojo Loaches/Weather Loaches are considered invasive in many parts of the United States. It is illegal to keep them in certain locations.

    8. Golden Wonder Killifish

    Golden Wonder Killifish are gorgeous freshwater fish known for their shimmering golden-yellow bodies paired with iridescent blue and red highlights. They’re surface-dwelling fish with an elegant, elongated shape and large, expressive eyes that give them a lot of personality. Their striking appearance makes them an eye-catching addition to community aquariums, especially since they tend to stay near the top where many other species don’t occupy. Golden Wonders are hardy, adaptable to a range of water conditions, and relatively undemanding in terms of care, making them accessible to both beginners and experienced aquarists. They also display fascinating hunting behavior where they hover near the surface and dart for food with precision.

    On the downside, Golden Wonder Killifish have some traits that require consideration. They are predatory by nature and will happily eat small tank mates such as Neon Tetras, shrimp, or fry. They’re best kept with medium to larger community fish. They’re also excellent jumpers, which means a tight-fitting lid is a must to prevent escapes.

    While generally peaceful, males can sometimes be territorial, especially in smaller tanks or when competing for females. They also prefer calm or moderately filtered tanks rather than strong currents, so their setup needs to be considered carefully. With proper tankmates and a secure environment, though, Golden Wonder Killifish are hardy, striking, and unique fish that add brilliance and activity to the top levels of an aquarium.

    9. Albino Silver Hatchet

    Another top dwelling aquarium fish is the Albino Silver Hatchetfish. They are a striking and unusual freshwater species, instantly recognizable by their unique hatchet-shaped bodies. They also showcase shimmering white-silver coloration with a subtle pinkish hue from their albino genetics. Their body shape and tendency to occupy the very top of the water column make them fascinating fish to observe. This is true when they’re in groups where they display their dynamic behavior.

    They’re peaceful and generally get along well in community aquariums with other small, non-aggressive fish. This makes them an excellent choice for aquarists who want activity in the upper levels of their tank. Their unusual look, rarity compared to standard silver hatchetfish, and schooling nature make them a real conversation piece and a way to add variety to an aquarium.

    On the downside, Albino Silver Hatchetfish can be more delicate than many other community species. They’re highly prone to jumping, often leaping out of tanks when startled, so a tightly fitting lid is essential. They also require excellent water quality, a calm environment, and plenty of swimming space near the surface, which makes them less forgiving for beginners.

    Albino Hatchetfish need appropriately sized foods (like baby brine shrimp, daphnia, or crushed flakes) because of their small mouths. They may not compete well against more aggressive feeders. They’re also best kept in groups of six or more, which means a larger tank is necessary to keep them comfortable and reduce stress. Despite these challenges, Albino Silver Hatchetfish are a rewarding and visually stunning addition to a peaceful, well-maintained community aquarium.

    10. Sunset Guppy

    Sunset Guppies are a vibrant and popular variety of guppy, named for their gradient coloration that often shifts from bright yellow and orange to deeper red tones. This resembles a glowing sunset. They’re small, peaceful, and incredibly active, making them a lively centerpiece in community aquariums. They adapt well to a wide range of freshwater conditions, making them perfect for both beginners and experienced aquarists. Guppies, including the Sunset variety, are also prolific livebearers, so hobbyists can easily breed them and enjoy the excitement of raising fry. Their dazzling colors, playful personalities, and ease of care make Sunset Guppies one of the most rewarding and accessible fish for aquariums of all sizes.

    The downsides mostly revolve around their breeding habits and fragility. Since they reproduce rapidly, tanks can become overcrowded if fry aren’t managed or rehomed. Males may also pester females relentlessly, so keeping more females than males is necessary to reduce stress. While generally hardy, guppies can be vulnerable to common freshwater diseases like fin rot and ich, particularly if kept in poor water conditions or overcrowded tanks. They also have relatively short lifespans (often 2–3 years), which can be disappointing for aquarists looking for long-term pets. Despite these challenges, Sunset Guppies bring unmatched color, activity, and charm to community tanks, making them a staple choice for aquarists who love vibrant, easy-to-keep fish.

    11. Yellow Honey Gourami

    Yellow Honey Gouramis are peaceful, elegant freshwater fish that shine with their soft golden-yellow coloration. Unlike many gourami species, they stay relatively small (about 2 inches), making them ideal for smaller community aquariums or as centerpiece fish in nano setups. Their calm temperament, gentle swimming style, and tendency to explore plants and decorations make them soothing to watch. They’re also labyrinth fish, meaning they can breathe atmospheric air, so you’ll often see them rise to the surface in a charming, deliberate way. Their bright yellow hue, paired with their peaceful nature, makes them a perfect choice for aquarists looking for a splash of warm color without aggression.

    On the downside, Yellow Honey Gouramis can be a little shy, especially when first introduced to a tank, and they may get bullied by more boisterous or fin-nipping species. While hardy overall, they do require stable, clean water conditions and can be sensitive to sudden parameter changes. Males, though less aggressive than many other gouramis, may still show territorial behavior during breeding.

    Because they’re small and somewhat delicate, they’re best housed with gentle tank mates rather than larger or fast-moving species that might outcompete them for food. Despite these considerations, Yellow Honey Gouramis are an excellent, beginner-friendly fish that bring color, tranquility, and personality to a freshwater community tank.

    12. Yellow Marlboro Discus

    Yellow Marlboro Discus are among the most striking and prized freshwater fish, especially for aquarists who love centerpiece species. Their bold, solid golden-yellow coloration contrasted with a red-orange face makes them truly stand out, even in tanks with other colorful fish. They have a graceful, disc-shaped body and a slow, elegant swimming style that gives aquariums a calm and majestic presence. Discus are also highly social and thrive in groups. They create a dynamic yet peaceful display when kept in a proper school. For aquarists with some experience, Yellow Marlboro Discus are the ultimate show fish.

    On the downside, they are considered one of the more demanding freshwater fish to keep. Discus require very clean, warm water (82–86°F), stable parameters. Low nitrate levels are also needed to thrive, making them less suitable for beginners. They are sensitive to stress and can be prone to disease if water quality drops. Because they prefer to live in groups of at least five or six, they need a spacious tank (75 gallons or larger). This increases the cost and level of care required.

    Their specialized diet, often including high-quality frozen or live foods, also makes feeding more involved than with hardier community species. Lastly, Yellow Marlboro Discus are expensive compared to most freshwater fish, both to purchase and to maintain. Despite these challenges, for aquarists ready to meet their needs, they are one of the most rewarding and breathtaking fish available in the hobby.

    Final Notes

    Yellow tropical fish bring a unique vibrancy and warmth to freshwater aquariums, acting as living rays of sunshine that immediately draw the eye. Whether it’s the bold, regal presence of a Yellow Marlboro Discus, the energetic playfulness of a Sunset Guppy, or the tranquil grace of a Yellow Honey Gourami, these golden-toned species add both beauty and character to a tank.

    Beyond their colors, yellow fish often fill different roles in the aquarium. Some are centerpiece fish while others are active schoolers, and hardworking bottom-dwellers. This makes them versatile choices for aquarists of all experience levels. While some yellow tropical fish are hardy and beginner-friendly, others require more advanced care, stable water conditions, and specialized setups. This means aquarists can find a yellow species suited to nearly any skill level. Altogether, yellow fish provide not just visual appeal but also variety, personality, and even functionality, making them an enduring favorite in the aquarium hobby.

  • How To Set up Aquarium For Betta Fish

    How To Set up Aquarium For Betta Fish

    Betta Fish are gorgeous, colorful freshwater fish that are filled with incredible personalities. These fish don’t belong in tiny vases or in a cold, dark room. They should be kept in warm and filtered water with space to stretch their fins and swim around. This article will discuss the equipment and supplies I recommend to set up an aquarium for Betta Fish.

    I always encourage fishkeepers to go to their local fish store to purchase supplies. Many small and local fish stores have a great selection of plants, driftwood, fish, and, best of all, knowledge. Many do their best to provide great information to care for their animals. Unfortunately, shopping in a store is not always possible, so online shopping is the next best thing. I have curated a list of equipment and supplies you can purchase online to set up an aquarium for Betta Fish.

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    List Of Equipment and Supplies

    There’s a lot that goes into an aquarium, and it could get a little intimidating for first-time aquarists. I’ll try to make this setup guide as straightforward as possible. All the equipment and supplies I recommend for keeping a Betta Fish will be listed. It’ll be a beginner-friendly fish tank and will utilize live plants that are easy to care for. An explanation will be provided for why I recommend equipment and supplies. The following is what you’ll need to get your fish tank up and running before even thinking of adding a fish.

    The following are supplies, decorations, and other items I highly recommend to help increase your chance of keeping a successfully running fish tank. These items include things to monitor your water parameters and to make tank maintenance a little easier.

    You can pick and choose what equipment you’ll need, but these are my highly suggested items. If there is a brand you prefer using, by all means, use that brand. I am sharing what has worked well for me. I also recommend always buying from your local fish store if possible. They work hard to keep this hobby available to us. If you do not have a mom-and-pop fish store near you, then consider picking up equipment and supplies online. I will always appreciate your support if you click and purchase items from the affiliate links provided.

    Aquarium, Aquarium Stand, Lid, & Background

    Technically speaking, Betta Fish can be kept in a minimum of 5 gallons of water. However, more space for a fish is always recommended. I suggest keeping a Betta in at least 10 gallons of water. They move a lot more than you might think, and larger water volumes often mean more stable water parameters. For this setup, we will be using the Aqueon 10-gallon fish tank. I have used Aqueon fish tanks all my life. They are sturdy and have a track record of being great aquariums (at least for me).

    Many aquariums can be purchased with a stand. The important thing when putting a fish tank on a stand, table, or other furniture is knowing the limitations of what you’re putting it on. The water volume of a 10-gallon fish tank will weigh at least 80 lbs, and not all furniture is built to hold that kind of weight.

    For example, you can put the fish tank on a dresser, just make sure the dresser can hold the weight, won’t sag over time due to the weight, and won’t warp and transform if you accidentally spill water on it. If you’re questioning the weight and durability of the furniture you plan on using, it’s probably a good idea not to use it. Damage from an aquarium blowout can be expensive, so it’s not worth risking it.

    Aquarium lids and backgrounds are pretty straightforward. Betta Fish can jump out of an aquarium, so a lid is recommended. Aqueon has glass lids made to fit their frame, but you can also make or purchase a custom lid. Floating plants are sometimes used instead of lids, but it’s not guaranteed they’ll stop a fish from jumping out. I make very simple backgrounds with black paper purchased from a dollar store. I simply cut it to size and tape it to the back. It’s easily replaceable if it gets wet, and it is negligible in cost. However, use whatever background makes you happy.

    Aquarium Filter

    For a Betta Fish aquarium, especially for one that will be set up with aquarium plants, I recommend a sponge filter. There are a few reasons for this. Betta Fish have nice flowy fins that can theoretically get sucked into the intake of a hang-on back or canister filter. A sponge filter removes that possibility almost entirely. Sponge filters move air through a tube. That’s literally all they do. So a Betta cannot get sucked into one. You can learn a few things about sponge filters by checking out Sponge Filter Use, Cleaning, and Extra Tips.

    Downside to Sponge Filters

    There are a few downsides to a sponge filter (in my opinion). The first being that they only provide biological filtration. Bacteria will populate the sponge, which is fantastic, but that’s all it’ll do. There is no mechanical or chemical filtration. Regardless, bacteria are really important in keeping your nitrogen cycle in check, so it’s fantastic that bacteria colonize the surface area of a sponge. Luckily for this setup, plants and water changes should fill the gap of not having mechanical or chemical filtration.

    The other downside is the size. I personally don’t like how much space a sponge filter uses in an aquarium. I prefer a small tube of a hang-on back filter over a sponge that takes up space. For the sake of a Betta, I’ll look passed it and use a sponge filter.

    Aquarium Heater

    Heaters are the pieces of equipment that are likely to malfunction in an aquarium. When you mix a device that produces a lot of heat at short intervals, it’s bound to happen. Regardless, they are often a necessary aspect of fish keeping. My go-to heaters are the Fluval M-Series Heaters and the Aqueon Pro Heaters. These have treated me well in the past, but I understand that everyone has a different story with the quality of heaters, and what has worked for me may not be the same for someone else. You can learn about some of my favorite heaters by reading 6 Best Aquarium Heaters for Freshwater & Saltwater Fish Tanks.

    Aquarium Light & Power Strip

    Since we are growing plants in this enclosure, it will need a light that can help plants grow. Luckily, we will be sticking to beginner-friendly plants that won’t require high-intensity lighting. For an aquarium like this, a budget-friendly NICREW 20″ SkyLED light might do the trick. If you’re looking for something on the higher end, with more versatility and customization, consider the FZONE LED Aquarium Light. This light has an app that allows you to customize colors and intensities, which really lets you nerd out with your fish tank.

    This aquarium will have at least three pieces of equipment that consume electricity. I suggest getting a good power strip for it. I listed the Amazon Basics Power Strip above. They are generally reliable and rated quite high in quality. You might have a good power strip lying around your house that’ll work for this setup. When running electrical cords and wires around aquariums, remember to set them up with a drip loop to prevent water from reaching the outlet.

    Substrate

    Sandy substrate or gravel is what I recommend for most aquariums, especially ones with plants growing in them. I provided CaribSea Eco-Complete Black Gravel as a suggestion, but most brands will work. The black gravel should make your fish and plants pop in color compared to lighter gravels that reflect color and wash out the surroundings. If you’re a beginner aquarist, gravel may be the better choice. Gravel does a better job of anchoring plants in place. Sand is just a little harder to work with when putting in plants.

    I have gone a very cheap route and set up an aquarium with pool filter sand. You can get a 50 lb bag of HTH Pool Filter Sand for roughly 15$, which is quite cheap compared to other substrates. Not all sands are made the same. Certain ones have high levels of silicates and are not as clean. Play sand is a great example of this, and I would not use that for an aquarium. If you decide to use pool filter sand, thoroughly rinse the sand before adding it to an aquarium. Otherwise, it may take a long time for your aquarium to clear up.

    Live Plants & Driftwood

    Aquarium plants chosen for this setup will be easy to care for. Most of these don’t require anything besides fish waste and decent lighting to prosper. I have an article devoted to beginner-friendly aquarium plants, it’s called 10 Best Aquarium Plants For Beginners. For this fish tank, I’d use Anubias, Crypts, Java Fern, Salvinia minima, and a species of moss to grow on driftwood.

    Betta Fish love to rest on or under leaves, which makes Anubias and Java Fern a perfect option. Crypts grow fairly quickly and often form large bunches, which is great for filling up space. Salvinia minima is a floating plant that is great at soaking up nutrients and also provides a barrier between the surface and water. This will hopefully lower the risk of your Betta jumping out of an aquarium. The moss is self-explanatory; glue it or tie it to a piece of driftwood and watch it grow. There are many plant options; choose which catches your eye, but look into the plant’s needs before purchasing.

    Most driftwood found in a fish store should be good to go. The only precaution I would advise is to be careful about sharper-edged pieces of driftwood. It’s unlikely, but the sharp edges can snag a Betta’s fin and damage them. Driftwood also has a strong possibility of releasing tannins into the water. They aren’t dangerous and instead are beneficial to a fish tank. The downside to tannins is that they change your aquarium into a brown, tea color.

    API Freshwater Master Test Kit & Water Conditioner

    A freshwater test kit will be a necessity for your brand-new aquarium. Your fish tank will go through the nitrogen cycle. The cycle essentially creates a “safe” habitat for your fish. The cycle typically progresses through an ammonia stage, a nitrite stage, and concludes with a nitrate stage. Nitrite-producing bacteria consume ammonia, and nitrite-consuming bacteria produce nitrates. Ammonia and nitrites are toxic to fish. Nitrates can also be dangerous to fish at high levels. This is why it’s important to have a test kit on hand to make sure you’re not adding fish into an aquarium actively going through the nitrogen cycle.

    After your fish tank is cycled, the solution to removing nitrates is simply water changes. Usually, a 10-20% water change will help lower nitrates. I do not recommend doing 100% water changes, and do not take everything out of your fish tank to “clean it”. This will more than likely crash your fish tank’s bacterial colony, completely crashing your aquarium. The only thing you’ll likely need to take out of the fish tank when cleaning is the sponge. Either when it gets gunked up or is falling apart. Gunked-up sponges can be rinsed through old aquarium water, or some people suggest simply running them through the tap for a quick rinse.

    Many of us live in cities with municipal water. The water from this kind of tap water likely has chlorines and chloramines, which are good for us but bad for fish. A water conditioner is designed to remove harmful chemicals like chlorine and chloramine. SeaChem Prime is generally easy to use and will help us achieve the goal of removing chlorine and chloramine from the water. Use a water conditioner every time you add water to your fish tank.

    Fish Net & Fish Food

    Fish nets and fish food are self-explanatory. The net will be used to put the fish into the aquarium or to remove it, if needed. Your Betta will need to be fed, and that’s where the fish food comes in. Having a variety of food is important to give your fish a range of nutrition. I recommend a combination of flake food, bloodworms, Fluval Bug Bites, or any combination that fits your style.

    Gravel Vacuum & Buckets

    A few other things that are fairly straightforward are the gravel vacuum and buckets. I suggest getting at least two buckets. One to remove water and one to add clean water. The gravel vacuum will be used to conduct water changes. The end of the gravel vacuum will sift gunk out of the substrate and remove it from the aquarium.

    Putting it all Together

    So we have all our supplies. It’s time to put it all together. If you have an aquarium stand for your fish tank, put it where you think it should go. I suggest keeping your aquarium away from doors that lead to the outside and windows. Drafts from open doors in the winter aren’t good for the temperature stability of a fish tank, and an aquarium near a window sounds like an algae nightmare waiting to happen.

    Even though it’s only a 10-gallon aquarium, it could do some damage if it springs a leak or is defective. Some people might suggest filling the aquarium up with only water and having it sit for a day or two to see if it is defective. I usually do this with larger aquariums, and I haven’t done it with small aquariums. A leak can happen at any moment, and from what I have seen, it’s more common in larger fish tanks. If you’re testing your fish tank, consider doing it somewhere outside, in a garage, or somewhere where floor damage is not possible.

    Decorations & Equipment Setup

    Once the stand and aquarium are in place, I usually start adding the rinsed (if rinsing is applicable) substrate. While this is happening, I am simultaneously thinking about how I plan on decorating the aquarium. I don’t bother putting on the lights and lid yet because that will likely get moved around while decorating.

    You can connect your sponge filter to the airline tube and check valve, and put it in its place. You can connect it to the air pump and test to see if it works. Put the heater into its permanent location, but do not turn it on until you have water in the fish tank. You’re asking for trouble if you plug your heater in with no water.

    Add your other decorations, such as driftwood and rocks. Do this after adding enough water to saturate the substrate, and begin adding your plants. I recommend placing taller plants, such as Java Fern and Crypts in the back and shorter plants in the front. If you purchased floating plants, don’t add them until the aquarium is filled with water.

    Wrap it all up

    Finish filling the fish tank up with water, if you haven’t done so, dial your heater to the temperature you want it set at and turn it on. Place your thermometer, and add water conditioner into the aquarium. Now you can place your lid (if you have one) and light on top.

    If you have an older and more established fish tank, you can add filter media from that fish tank into the new one to help jump-start the nitrogen cycle. It could cut the cycle down by weeks, so you can hopefully add your betta sooner. If you don’t have an older aquarium, I usually sprinkle some food into the fish tank to give bacteria something to feed on. This is the start of your nitrogen cycle. It usually lasts around 6 weeks, but it’s important to monitor the progress with the Freshwater Master Test Kit.

    Final Notes

    Setting up a 10-gallon betta tank is all about creating a balanced, comfortable, and enriching environment where your fish can thrive. By choosing the right equipment, maintaining stable water parameters, adding safe décor and live plants, and allowing the tank to cycle before introducing your betta, you’re setting the stage for a healthy and vibrant aquarium. With consistent care and attention, your 10-gallon tank will not only showcase your betta’s natural beauty and personality but also provide a stable home where it can live a long, active life.

  • How to Setup an Aquarium For Neolamprologus multifasciatus

    Neolamprologus multifasciatus is a unique freshwater fish and is one of the smallest species of cichlid that can be kept in an aquarium. What makes these fish incredibly unique is their behavior. Multis are a shell dweller cichlid species normally found in Lake Tanganyika, which is a lake located in Africa. Their behaviors and hardy personalities make them fantastic for fishkeepers looking to keep something a little different. This article will discuss the process of setting up an aquarium for multifasciatus cichlids. I’ll provide a list of equipment and supplies they will likely need, and discuss more about these incredible fish.

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    List of Supplies & Equipment

    Multis are not an incredibly challenging fish to keep. These fish are fairly hardy and do not require elaborate aquarium setups. Also, once settled in a fish tank, you’ll likely see them breed. You might get tired of them breeding, similarly to how we get tired of Guppies breeding in a fish tank. The following is a list of equipment I suggest for these shell dwellers. You’ll likely want to have all of these supplies and equipment before assembling the entire aquarium.

    There are additional supplies that are highly recommended when setting up an aquarium and are essential for keeping it running smoothly. The following are supplies, decorations, and other things I recommend for your shell dweller fish tank. I’ll discuss the musts (in my opinion) and things you could get by without.

    As you can see, the list of supplies is pretty extensive. If you’re currently a fishkeeper, you may already have a good portion of these supplies. However, if you’re not, you will likely be spending some money to get everything you need.

    Aquarium & Aquarium Stand

    The first thing you’ll need to acquire for this setup is an aquarium and an aquarium stand. The aquariums that are easiest for me to acquire are Aqueon aquariums. They are generally great quality and a good price. I highly suggest picking up a fish tank from a fish store, instead of online. Glass and shipping don’t mix well together, so it’s better to buy one at the store. For shell dwellers, I recommend providing at least a 20-gallon long fish tank. Shell dwellers do better with more length and width in an aquarium than height. This is because they spend most of their time around the sandbed with their shells.

    Buying a used aquarium and stand is also an option. You’ll have to be careful with used aquariums because they may have issues due to previous use and age. You’ll also want to make sure whatever you use for a stand can hold a 20-gallon aquarium. Remember, 20 gallons of water will weigh about 160 lbs. Whatever you put the aquarium on will have to be able to hold that weight for a long time. Cheap material may bend and bow under the weight of the fish tank, which may eventually lead the aquarium to collapse. Also, make sure your aquarium is level to lower the chance of a blowout.

    Aquarium Lid & Light

    Shellies are not inherently known to jump, but technically, just about all fish can jump out of an aquarium. A glass top can do wonders to help prevent that. A glass top will also lower evaporation in the fish tank, which will also lower how much you have to top off the water. If you’re into custom lids, consider checking out GCInnovations’ custom 20-gallon long lid on Etsy. They currently make a lid for Aqueon and Imagitarium. Be sure to purchase the correct one if you go this route.

    Due to the harshness of the water parameters, many plants will not prosper in this aquarium. Shellies enjoy alkaline water with higher levels of water hardness and increased pH levels. Most plants prefer soft and acidic waters. So they are, for the most part, incompatible. Shell Dweller Cichlids, like Multis, also move shells and sand around. This will make the substrate a pretty inhospitable place for plants, and you’ll likely see them get uprooted constantly. What I am trying to explain is that these fish don’t need the fanciest lights to be happy because you probably won’t be growing plants in the aquarium. Any aquarium light should do perfectly fine over the fish tank. However, if you’re inclined to add some kind of plants, consider trying any of the 10 Best Aquarium Plants For Beginners. These plants are hardy, robust, and can handle some neglect. If any plants will succeed in this setup, it’s floating plants.

    Aquarium Backgrounds

    I am a cheap person and do what I can to save costs where possible in this hobby. Aquarium backgrounds are one of the things I usually go cheap on. I usually go to the Dollar Store or craft store and buy a large piece of black paper for the background. I then use scotch tape to tape the paper to the back of the fish tank. This has worked well for me, and I suggest you give it a try if you’re trying to save some money. However, don’t let me stop you from buying a background that’s better suited for your setup.

    Aquarium Heaters

    Shell Dwellers enjoy nice warm water. They do best under water temperatures ranging between 75°F and 80°F. Having a heater in the aquarium is crucial for keeping these fish healthy and happy. There are many heater options available. Take a look at the 6 Best Aquarium Heaters for Freshwater & Saltwater Fish Tanks to see some of the best options out there. I provided a link to the Fluval M-Series Heater earlier in this article. I enjoy using these, and they’re often my go-to choice for heaters. The 100W version of this heater is rated for aquariums up to 30 gallons, so it should provide plenty of power to keep your aquarium warm. Don’t forget to pick up an internal thermometer as well to keep an eye on the temperature.

    Aquarium Filter Options

    For aquarium filters, we can go two different routes. The first option that many people take is using a sponge filter. The reason many people use sponge filters for shell dweller aquariums is that fry (baby fish) cannot get sucked up into a sponge filter, unlike with a hang-on-back filter. Multis also tend to move sand around, and a sponge filter will not get clogged up from the sand because it does not have a motor. If you choose to go the sponge filter route, take a look at Sponge Filter Use, Cleaning, and Extra Tips for some information on them. If you purchase a sponge filter, you will also need to purchase an air pump to allow water to move through it.

    The other route that I recommend for a 20-gallon long shell dweller aquarium is to use a hang-on back filter with a prefilter covering the intake tube. I have grown to love the Seachem Tidal line of aquarium filters. They come loaded with a bunch of features that put them on top of my list of best aquarium power filters. Choose a filter that works best for you. I enjoy all the bells and whistles that come with filters. However, you may be someone who enjoys a more basic filter setup and do not need all the features. Check out the 7 Best Hang On the Back Power Filters for Freshwater Aquariums to see some of the best HOB filters on the market. You can purchase 12 pieces of Black Prefilter Sponge (affiliate link) to cover your filter intake tube. The Seachem Tidal 35 is the smallest size you can purchase. Luckily, the filter has adjustable flow rates, so you can slow down how much water gets pushed through the aquarium.

    Substrate For Aquarium, Escargot Shells, and Texas Holey Rock

    I chose the CaribSea Ivory Coast Sand for a few reasons. It looks cool with the black and white grains of sand, and it adds a unique touch of color to the aquarium. The main reason I chose this sand over other sands is that it aids in buffering your fish tank. This sand helps keep pH levels from dropping and assists in maintaining proper water parameters for your shellies. Some fishkeepers mix this sand with other Aragonite sands for the look and additional buffering capacity. 20 lbs of this sand may or may not be enough for your needs. I added one bag into a 20-gallon long, and felt like I could use more sand.

    Escargot shells are not the natural shells of shellies. The native shell species that shell dwellers use are incredibly expensive and hard to find. These are the next best thing. Regardless, shells are a must-have for your shellies. This is what they use for their home. They guard, fight, and constantly battle and switch shells. Without them, they’ll be incredibly stressed and will suffer. I recommend having at least 3 shells per fish. Covering the bottom of your aquarium with shells is probably the best route for this setup.

    Texas Holey Rock is technically not necessary for this setup. I added some into mine for some structure, to hide equipment, and to provide additional buffering. My goal is to try and buffer the water to the proper pH and hardness levels without having to use too many chemicals. Using rock and sand will help with this.

    Seachem Equilibrium & Water Test Kits

    If you have naturally occurring hard water, you may not need to buffer your aquarium water at all. I use RO water for all my fish tanks because I do not have the cleanest water out of the tap. This means buffering for pH and hardness will likely be a necessity. Seachem Equilibrium is the mineral buffer that I recommend to achieve proper GH levels for your aquarium.

    It’s important to test your aquarium water, tap water, and water after buffering agents are added to make sure you’re adding the proper amounts. I use the API Freshwater Master Test Kit for this with the GH test kit to keep an eye on my water parameters.

    Other Accessories & Supplies

    One thing you’ll need is fish food. Multis are predominantly carnivorous, so protein-rich foods are the way to go for them. Fluval Bug Bites, Bloodworms, and micropellets are good options. I would also provide them with crushed-up flake food as a supplement. Giving fish a variety of foods will help provide them with an umbrella of nutrients. One food might lack a certain nutrient that another may provide.

    There are a few other things you’ll need if this is your first time setting up an aquarium. You’ll need nets, buckets, a gravel vacuum, and consider looking into medications and aquarium salt for your fish in case they get sick. One other thing that is often overlooked is a battery-powered air pump. These are useful if you live in an area that loses power often. Fish can handle days without food, but a lack of oxygen due to no water movement can be detrimental to your fish tank.

    What’s Next?

    Before you add any fish into your aquarium, you’ll have to allow your aquarium to go through the nitrogen cycle. This cycle essentially creates the environment for your fish to live in. Your aquarium will go through 3 stages during this cycle. An ammonia stage, nitrite stage, and the nitrate stage, where we want to be. At the end of the cycle, we’ll want to see 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and a hint of nitrates. You’ll use the API Freshwater Master Test Kit to keep an eye on the water parameters.

    Stages can take anywhere between 6 to 8 weeks. You’ll need to give bacteria something to feed on. I usually drop some fish food into the aquarium to jump-start the cycle, but this is not a very scientific method of doing things. If you have an aquarium or know someone with an aquarium, ask them for some filter media to help seed your fish tank with bacteria. Seeding the fish tank could help speed up the nitrogen cycle.

    Final Notes

    Shell dwellers are fascinating little fish. At the time of this writing, I am setting up a 20-gallon long for Multis, and I cannot wait to get it stocked. If you’re entering the world of fishkeeping and are looking for a single-species aquarium, consider getting these fish. If not, check out 10 Best Fish For a 20 Gallon Tank – Freshwater Edition to see some other really cool fish that can be kept in a 20-gallon aquarium.

  • 10 Best Fish For a 20 Gallon Tank – Freshwater Edition

    10 Best Fish For a 20 Gallon Tank – Freshwater Edition

    Let’s be honest, there are countless fish that are available in this hobby, and it can get overwhelming deciding which to purchase. I have the hardest time choosing fish for my aquariums because I like different ones for different reasons. This article contains fish that I personally love and would recommend adding to a 20-gallon freshwater fish tank.

    You’ll have to research stocking limitations and the compatibility of these fish. I do not recommend adding all of these fish into one fish tank. They’re not all compatible with one another, or you might need a larger fish tank to keep different species. This list simply showcases what could possibly be kept in a 20-gallon aquarium.

    Cherry Barb

    Cherry Barbs are fantastic additions to 20 gallon freshwater aquariums. Males add an additional pop of red, while females introduce a nice subtle, red/brown combination into the mix. For the most part, Cherry Barbs keep to themselves. Most people agree that they don’t usually bother other fish. If you choose to have a group, consider getting at least 2-3 females for each male. Males could bother females relentlessly, which is similar to what male guppies do to females. So having a larger ratio of females will help disperse the pestering. Regardless, if you’re looking for a barb for your 20 gallon fish tank, consider picking up Cherry Barbs.

    Cardinal Tetra

    Personally, I prefer the look of Cardinal Tetras over Neon Tetras. That horizontal red streak on the Cardinal Tetra’s belly can’t be beat. Their reds and blues balance beautifully with a well-planted aquarium, and the vibrance grows if you choose to keep them in a blackwater aquarium. Cardinal Tetras generally seem more vibrant compared to Neon Tetras. I highly recommend them for a 20-gallon aquarium because they stay relatively small, do great in groups, and have spectacular red and blue colors. If you’re looking for a centerpiece schooling fish, look no further than a Cardinal Tetra.

    Celestial Pearl Danio

    Celestial Pearl Danio in plants

    Just looking at a Celestial Pearl Danio should be reason enough to know why they made this list. They are gorgeous looking fish with vibrant colors and white spots throughout their bodies. Celestial Pearl Danios (CPD) are also very peaceful and great options for heavily planted fish tanks. Also known as Galaxy Rasboras, these fish have an additional perk to them. They do well in aquariums with water tempereatures ranging between 72° and 76°F. If you live in an area where the ambient temperature of the home sits in that range, you may be able to keep this fish thriving without a heater. I highly recommend checking this fish out if you’re looking for a peaceful community fish, and you can likely keep anywhere between 10 and 12 individuals in a 20 gallon aquarium.

    Harlequin Rasbora

    Harlequin Rasboras are probably one of my favorite schooling fish. I love the orange, white, and black colorations on their bodies. Harlequin Rasboras will really stand out in a well-planted fish tank. They also have a bulkier build to them, compared to other fish that are streamlined in appearance. These Rasboras are also fairly hardy and generally do well in community tanks. However, use caution because some aquarists do say Harlequin Rasboras can become a little nippy. Not to the same extent as Tiger Barbs, but there are reports of these fish bothering Corycats and other incredibly peaceful fish.

    Neolamprologus multifasciatus

    Many cichlids get enormous and/or incredibly aggressive. Luckily, there are a few species that stay small and are generally peaceful. This includes the Neolamprologus multifasciatus, also known as Multis. They are shell dwelling cichlids from Lake Tanganyika. They spend most of their days patrolling and defending their shell from other Multis. They bring a unique personality to the aquarium world that you don’t often see. It’s really fun and exciting watching them defend their space or search for a new one.

    Keeping Multis is a bit different because you will more than likely devote an aquarium to them. They are often kept in a species-only aquarium. This is perfectly fine for me, because watching them fight and defend their shells all day is enough entertainment. If you’re looking for a unique experience in the freshwater world consider setting a fish tank up for Neolamprologus multifasciatus. They are hardy, fun to watch, and breed fairly easily.

    Rummynose Tetra

    I love the torpedo appearance of Rummynose Tetras. They look amazing in a well-planted aquarium, especially if you have a decently sized school. The black and white tail with red face gives them a very unique appearance, which stands out in a fish tank.

    Rummynose Tetras are a great choice for a 20-gallon aquarium. However, I have to point out that they are incredibly sensitive. If anything goes wrong in the aquarium, they are usually the first to suffer or perish. Regardless, they’re a fantastic fish that look great in 20-gallon fish tanks. If you have a larger fish tank, and are looking for something that looks similar to Rummynose Tetras, consider checking out Denison Barbs, also known as Roseline Sharks. They grow to be a bit larger, but have a similar shape and coloration.

    Bristlenose Pleco

    Many plecos grow to massive sizes, but fortunately, there are a few species that remain pretty small. Bristlenose Plecos are one of those, and only grow to about 6 inches at their maximum. This makes them great candidates for a 20-gallon aquarium. They’re great at eating food at the bottom of the aquarium, and will keep up with algae for the most part. Males have showy bristles over their face, which adds to their charm when they mature. Unfortunately, females have small whiskers. If there is enough decor for them in the fish tank, these fish may disappear in the aquarium for days to weeks at a time.

    Bristlenose Plecos eat algae and food that falls to the bottom of the fish tank. However, you will likely need to supplement their diet with more food. If not, they run the risk of starving in a fish tank. Algae wafers are an excellent option for Bristlenose Plecos, and some aquarists feed them cucumbers and zucchini.

    Peacock Gudgeon

    If you’re looking for a unique fish with striking colors, check out Peacock Gudgeons. The dominating colors on this fish include red, yellow, and blue. Peacock Gudgeons are a member of the goby family and are perfectly fine being kept in freshwater aquariums. They’re incredibly peaceful fish and only grow to about 2 inches when fully grown. Peacock Gudgeons are micro predators that do great as a pair or in groups of 6 to 8. They should easily accept dry pellet food, but being predators, I highly recommend providing them with protein-rich frozen foods as well.

    Care must be taken when keeping Peacock Gudgeons. Being related to gobies, they’re known jumpers. A well-fitted lid will likely be a must because not only are they jumpers, they’re also quite skittish, which increases the likelihood of them jumping.

    Clown Pleco

    If you’re looking for something a little smaller than a Bristlenose Pleco and don’t care as much for the algae eating aspect of a pleco, consider checking out Clown Plecos. They max out at about 4 inches and have incredible colorations. Some people may get turned away from them because they are wood eaters and can make a mess because of their diet. I enjoy the unique behavior, and will happily deal with the mess to get a chance of hearing the crunching sounds when this fish munches on driftwood.

    The key to their success is providing plenty of hiding spaces and driftwood for their diet. If you are not planning to provide both in the aquarium, don’t get this fish. They’ll graze on algae but they aren’t the algae eating powerhouses other clean up crews provide.

    Killifish

    There are many different species of Killifish, and their colorations, small size, and peaceful temperament make them great options for 20 gallon aquariums. They are especially eye-catching in well planted aquariums.

    Killifish may also be a great option for those who enjoy changing the stocking of an aquarium often. Certain Killifish species have incredibly short lifespans. These Killifish only live for anywhere between 6 to 12 months. They often spawn to continue populating the aquarium but they may not which allows you to replace them knowing they moved on naturally instead of being sent back to the pet store.

    Final Notes

    This list contains the 10 Best Fish For a 20 Gallon Tank, from my perspective. This list is completely opinionated, and I know many of you have your own top 10 fish list. When formulating my list, I try to provide fish with unique characteristics, habits, and behaviors. This list is much different than my 10 Best Fish For a 10 Gallon Tank – Freshwater Edition, which I advise you check out as well. If you have your personal list of fish you’d like to contribute to this website, consider reaching out!

  • 10 Best Aquarium Plants For Beginners

    10 Best Aquarium Plants For Beginners

    Jumping into the realm of fishkeeping and planted aquariums can be quite intimidating. Many plant species do best under high-light, CO2, and fertilizer-supplemented aquarium systems. Luckily, plenty of plant species do not require more than decent light above the aquarium to succeed. This article will discuss a handful of plant species that are very beginner-friendly and are what I would consider the best aquarium plants for beginners. This list is in no particular order. Each of these plants has a great chance of success, even for fishkeepers just starting to dip their toes in aquarium plants.

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    1. Anubias

    Anubias Barteri

    Anubias is one of those plants that just works. There are many species of Anubias, and most are tolerant of low to moderate light conditions, requiring neither fertilizers nor CO2 supplementation to grow. They’re incredibly hardy plants and an excellent choice for beginner aquarium keepers. If you’re looking for a fast-growing plant, you might want to look elsewhere. Anubias are slow-growing plants. They are in no rush to grow and spread throughout your aquarium.

    These are plants that you do not want to bury in a substrate. They do best wedged between rocks, driftwood, or other surfaces. You’ll have a plant that will slowly whither away if the rhizome gets buried. A buried rhizome will lead to a rotting rhizome, which will eventually cause the demise of your Anubias.

    Anubias should be readily available at most fish stores that sell plants. If you’re shopping online, consider purchasing your Anubias from TheShrimpFarm. They have many different species, but the Anubias Barteri (affiliate link) and Anubias Nana petite (affiliate link) are two species that I enjoy keeping.

    2. Java Fern

    Java Fern is another species of aquatic plants that is an excellent option for beginners. They have a beautiful lance-shaped leaf that pops in an aquarium. Similar to Anubias, the Java Fern is a slow-growing plant that tolerates low to moderate light conditions. They also should have no issues living in conditions without CO2 supplements and fertilization. This plant species is fine being planted in substrate, but it can also be attached to driftwood, rockwork, or other surfaces. Just like Anubias, you should not bury the rhizome, or it will rot away over time. The roots are the only part of the plant that should be buried.

    This plant species should be easily found at fish stores. It is one of the most popular plant species added to a freshwater planted fish tank. However, if you’re shopping around online, consider purchasing Java Fern (affiliate link) from TheShrimpFarm.

    3. Moss

    Many species of mosses can be added to an aquarium. The easiest and likely most common moss species added into a fish tank is the Java Moss. There are also Christmas Moss, Willow Moss, and Flame Moss, to name a few others. Each moss should grow in an aquarium under low light conditions, without fertilization and CO2. All you have to do with moss is attach it to a piece of driftwood or rock and watch it grow. Some fishkeepers attach moss with fishing line, and remove the line once the moss attaches to the surface permanently. Others will superglue moss to a surface and let it grow from there.

    TheShrimpFarm has Java Moss (affiliate link) and Christmas Moss (affiliate link) for sale. You may find some at fish stores, but the best source of different moss species will likely be online.

    4. Vallisneria

    Vallisneria gigantea

    Vallisneria, or Val for short, are long, elongated grass-like plants that are excellent options for beginners. These plants are often used for the backgrounds of fish tanks because they will likely utilize all the vertical space available. They do great under moderate to high light conditions, do not require CO2, but may benefit from being supplemented with aquarium plant fertilizer. These plants are quite hardy and, once established, will spread quickly throughout an aquarium.

    The Vallisneria species I often use in my aquariums are the Jungle Val (affiliate link) and Corkscrew Val (affiliate link). Both of these have similar care requirements. The Corkscrew Vallisneria has a nice charm to it with a gentle twisting leaf blade. The affiliate links for these plants will take you to TheShrimpFarm product page.

    5. Duckweed

    I wasn’t sure if I should have added this plant to the list, but I decided to do so because it is incredibly easy to grow. Duckweed, a floating plant, is the bane of many fish keepers’ existence. Once introduced, it often will take over the surface of an aquarium. One small piece of Duckweed can turn into hundreds, thousands, and probably millions of individual pieces. I do not recommend adding Duckweed into your aquarium on purpose, but if you choose to try it, know that it may be tough to impossible to remove. You can probably find them in most freshwater bodies of water, but if you’re shopping online, TheShrimpFarm sells Duckweed (affiliate link). Duckweed may not be the best option for your aquarium, but it is one of the easiest and best-growing plants available.

    6. Water Sprite

    Water Sprite is an easy-to-grow aquatic plant with character to it. This plant has lace-like leaves that give it a dense, bushy appearance. This makes it an excellent plant for aquariums with fry, shrimp, and small fish. Water Sprites are tolerant of low to medium light intensities, can be planted or left floating, do not require CO2, but appreciate aquarium-safe fertilizers. Water Sprite is easily planted in the substrate, but one of my favorite features of this plant is that it has no issue being dropped in the aquarium to float and let it grow from there.

    Lace Leaf Water Sprite (affiliate link) can be purchased on TheShrimpFarm or from many other online retailers. You may also find it at your local fish store.

    7. Wisteria

    Wisteria is another very easy-to-grow plant that can either be buried in substrate or left floating to grow in the top portion of your aquarium. It has broad leaves that provide excellent cover for fry, shrimp, and other small fish. Wisteria does best in the background or mid-ground of your aquarium. They tolerate low to medium light, do not require CO2, but may benefit from some fertilization.

    Water Wisteria may be available for purchase at your local fish store, but online options are always available for this plant species. TheShrimpFarm sells Water Wisteria (affiliate link) if you’re looking for an online retailer. There are many other online options as well.

    8. Cryptocoryne

    Crypts are fantastic plants for beginners. They grow without issue in most aquarium settings. I have added Cryptocoryne into an aquarium with moderate light, and after about a few months, it had roots running across the full length of the aquarium. There are many different species of Crypts. Cryptocoryne wendtii and Cryptocoryne spiralis are two of my favorites of the bunch. Highly recommend that you give these a chance if you’re a beginner setting up a planted fish tank.

    9. Guppy Grass

    I just recently gave Guppy Grass a try to see just how easy it is to grow. All I had to do to have this plant succeed was to drop it into the fish tank. I did not plant it or do anything special with it. After a couple of days, the Guppy Grass began releasing roots. These roots shot down to get hold of some substrate. Guppy Grass should do perfectly fine, either planted or left to float, and I recommend giving it a try as a beginner.

    10. Water Spangles

    Water Spangles, also known as Salvinia minima, are the preferred floating plant for beginners. They aren’t as annoying to grow and keep in a planted fish tank, and are much more manageable compared to Duckweed. They do best in fish tanks with minimal to almost zero water movement. Water Spangles will suffer severely in fish tanks with heavy flowing water. This plant does a fantastic job of pulling nitrates out of the water. Check out TheShrimpFarm for some Salvinia minima (affiliate link).

    Final Notes

    For those new to freshwater aquariums, incorporating live plants can be a rewarding and manageable step toward creating a vibrant, healthy aquatic environment. Beginner-friendly species like Java fern, Anubias, Cryptocoryne, and Guppy Grass are hardy, low-maintenance, and adaptable to a range of tank conditions, making them ideal choices. These plants not only enhance the aesthetic appeal of the aquarium but also support the ecosystem by improving water quality and offering natural shelter for fish. With just a bit of care and attention, even novice aquarists can enjoy the lush, thriving underwater world that live plants help bring to life.

  • 10 Best Fish For a No Heater Freshwater Fish Tank

    10 Best Fish For a No Heater Freshwater Fish Tank

    Many of us in the freshwater fishkeeping hobby have been taught to keep our aquariums between 72 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Some fish need warmer water, but others will thrive between these temperature ranges. Many fish are considered tropical and need warm water to be successful in an aquarium. Others are more tolerant of both warm and cooler water temperatures. When researching fish stocking for an aquarium, it is important to learn which fish can be kept under what conditions. This article will discuss a handful of fish that can be kept under cool water parameter conditions, likely not requiring a heater.

    Aquarium heaters aren’t always used to maintain warm water temperatures. At times, they are used to keep water temperatures stable. If your home has fluctuating temperatures, it might be a good idea to keep an aquarium heater running to assist in reaching stable water parameters. Check out the 6 Best Aquarium Heaters for Freshwater & Saltwater Fish Tanks to see a handful of different companies that make heaters to help warm your aquarium water or help keep your water temperatures stable.

    1. White Cloud Mountain Minnow

    White Cloud

    Many newcomers in this hobby have likely seen or heard of White Cloud Mountain Minnows. They are often suggested to new fish keepers because of their hardiness, beautiful colorations, and active personalities. White Cloud Mountain Minnows are also excellent options for aquariums that do not run heaters. They do best in cooler water conditions, and it’s recommended to keep them between 65-75° F. White Clouds come in two varieties. You can find “normal” White Cloud Mountain Minnows and the “gold” version, which is essentially an albino version of the fish. Both types are gorgeous options for a planted aquarium.

    If you’re shopping for these fish online, consider purchasing White Cloud Mountain Minnows (affiliate link) from TheShrimpFarm. Also, check out the White Cloud Mountain Minnow – Complete Care Guide to learn more about this fish.

    2. Zebra Danio

    Zebra Danio

    If you’re looking for another incredibly hardy, active fish that does well in cool water, look no further than Zebra Danios. They tolerate water temperatures between 65 and 75° F. Calling them active is an understatement. Zebra Danios spend most of their time moving throughout the aquarium. They do best in groups of at least 6, but more is always recommended. Zebra Danios are not as flashy as many other freshwater fish but have unique horizontal stripes running across their body.

    The Zebra Danio is a fairly common fish that can be found at fish stores. They come in silver and gray colorations, albino, and Glofish® has a colorful line of Zebra Danios.

    3. Guppy

    Guppy

    Anyone who has kept freshwater aquariums likely knows about Guppies. These fish come in an assortment of colors, are generally easy to keep, and are quite active. They are quite tolerant of many different water temperatures and will succeed in aquarium water temperatures between 65 and 82° F. From experience, most people do keep them in warmer water, but it should not be challenging to acclimate them to cooler aquarium temperatures.

    For those of you who have not kept guppies, use caution because these are live-bearing fish. They produce live offspring instead of laying eggs and are prolific breeders. If you let these fish breed without intervention, your aquarium may slowly get overrun with Guppies.

    4. Rainbow Shiner

    Rainbow Shiner

    Rainbow Shiners are cold-loving freshwater fish. They will do great in aquariums with temperatures as low as 60° F and as high as 72° F. They do best in cooler waters that are highly oxygenated. In the wild, they are found in slow to moderately moving streams, which bring ample oxygen from the surface. Rainbow Shiners’ colors change throughout the year. During the breeding season, the colorations on this fish are incredible. You’ll see them with an array of blues, pinks, and purples. However, they do lose quite a bit of color outside of their breeding season.

    This fish species does best in groups of at least 6 individuals. They are social fish and do a fair amount of interacting when kept in larger groups. Check out their behavior in the beautiful stream aquarium.

    5. Paradise Fish

    Paradise Fish

    Paradise Fish are gorgeous freshwater fish that come in an assortment of colors and can do great in a cool water aquarium. There are a few different species of Paradise Fish, but each species is a Gourami. Like other Gouramis, Paradise Fish have a labyrinth organ, which allows them to breathe air from the surface. Paradise Fish do well in aquarium temperatures ranging between 64°F and 78°F.

    Use caution because Paradise Fish are known to be semi-aggressive to aggressive. Larger and heavily planted aquariums may help mitigate some aggression, but they are more than happy to terrorize an aquarium. Each person who has kept Paradise Fish likely has a different experience with them, because each fish has a unique personality.

    6. American Flagfish

    American Flagfish are fantastic algae eaters and very tolerant of cool-water aquarium setups. This fish species will do perfectly fine in tanks with temperatures between 66 ° F and 75° F. American Flagfish can display some aggression when kept in an enclosure that is too small or overpopulated, or during spawning periods. Otherwise, they are usually fairly peaceful and do not bother other tank mates. I recommend keeping them in small groups. If possible, they should be kept in a ratio of 1 male to 2-3 females.

    7. Medaka Ricefish

    Madeka Ricefish

    Medaka Ricefish, also known as Japanese Ricefish, are fantastic nano fish for no heater aquariums. They do great in temperatures between 60 and 75°F. Medaka Ricefish should be kept in small groups of at least six individuals. A small group should have no issue being kept in a 10-gallon aquarium or mini-pond. This is because they should not grow more than 1.5″.

    TheShrimpFarm has Galaxy Medaka Ricefish (affiliate link), which are white in color with a vibrant blue around their eyes. However, you can find Japanese Ricefish in different shades and colorations.

    8. Dojo Loach

    Like many other Loaches, Dojo Loaches exhibit a noodle-like appearance when they’re small. As they grow, they begin to change shape and look more like a hotdog. Their unique appearance goes perfectly with their interesting personalities. They often sleep on their side, bulldoze through the aquarium, and do other weird things. They’re really enjoyable fish to keep and do best in fish tanks with temperatures ranging between 65 and 75°F. Dojo Loaches do best in aquariums with a softer/rounded substrate that they can burrow into. They’re also considered escape artists and do best in fish tanks with well-fitted lids.

    9. Hillstream Loach

    Hillstream Loach

    The Hillstream Loach is a fish with a unique appearance. It has a flattened body to handle the fast-flowing streams of its natural habitat. These fish are gorgeous with black and yellow patternwork throughout their bodies. Reticulated Hillstream Loaches should not be kept in aquariums warmer than 75°F, but can be kept in temperatures as low as 64°F without issue. They can be fantastic tank mates for Rainbow Shiner, in appropriately sized fish tanks.

    You can often find Reticulated Hillstream Loaches (affiliate link) for sale on TheShrimpFarm. They’re fantastic fish to keep in a properly designed enclosure. They will spend much of their time consuming algae and detritus on rocks and other surfaces, but should readily accept most foods provided.

    10. Goldfish

    Goldfish

    If you have a very large aquarium or an outdoor pond, then Goldfish might be the right cool-water fish for you. Fancy Goldfish such as the Ranchu, Ryukin, and Oranda usually do great in temperatures between 68 and 78°F. Common Goldfish are often kept in outdoor ponds with fluctuating temperatures and seasons. If you decide to choose these fish, you have to understand that they get massive and are incredibly messy. They do best in larger volumes of water with excellent filtration to keep up with their waste production. Learn more about Goldfish by looking at the Goldfish – Complete Care Guide.

    Final Notes

    There are many cold-water enjoying fish out there, but these are my favorite choices based on shape, color, and behavior. This list is purely opinion-based, and other fish keepers may have different choices for their favorite coldwater freshwater fish. Let me know if you have experience with any of these fish or have a fish that you think should have made this list. Lastly, this list is in no particular order. Each fish is great in its own way.

  • Are Tetras Good Tank Mates For Goldfish?

    Are Tetras Good Tank Mates For Goldfish?

    Fish compatibility is a topic that always comes up in this hobby. Choosing what fish to keep together can be challenging, but part of being successful in keeping fish is learning which fish species will do well together. This article will cover whether tetras are good tank mates for goldfish.

    I’ll start by answering the question and then going into more detail about why. goldfish and tetras are not good tank mates for one another. I do not recommend mixing these two types of fish. They are incompatible in many different ways which will be listed below.

    1. Physical Incompatibility

    Goldfish grow to be very large; on the other end, many tetra species remain fairly small. Fish are opportunistic animals, if there is a possibility of one fish eating another, the larger fish will likely attempt to eat the smaller one. With this logic in mind, most tetra species become physically incompatible with goldfish.

    Although it’s not too common, tetras can and will nip the fins of other fish. Certain species of tetra are known to nip fins more than other species. Goldfish often have long-flowing fins and also move slowly. This makes their fins easy targets for fin-nipping by tetras.

    Goldfish can be brutes and will likely bully other fish during feeding time. Their large bodies can easily push away or scare away tetras from being able to get food.

    2. Different Water Parameter Requirements

    Tetras and goldfish have two different types of water parameter requirements. Tetras do best in tropical water conditions. I recommend keeping them in water temperatures at or above 76°F in most cases. On the other hand, goldfish have a larger tolerance for water temperatures. They are considered cold-water fish because they often do better being kept in cooler water. Goldfish do better in water temperatures below 74°F.

    3. Goldfish are Messy

    Goldfish are carp and they’re not known for their tidiness and clean eating habits. Goldfish poop often and constantly want food. Because of their personalities and lifestyles, the water parameters in the aquarium may swing. Although it’s not great for them, goldfish are more tolerant of swinging water parameters compared to tetras. Goldfish require better filtration systems, larger water volume, and more water changes because of their size, digestive system, and messiness.

    Final Notes

    There are likely more but less common reasons why tetras are not good tank mates for goldfish, but I hope the reasons listed above steer you away from trying. Goldfish do best in aquariums with other goldfish or koi and ideally should be kept in a pond outdoors when they get larger. Most aquariums are not made to house goldfish throughout their whole lives.

  • 4 Tricks To Feed Stubborn Gobies & Jawfish

    4 Tricks To Feed Stubborn Gobies & Jawfish

    Feeding gobies and jawfish can be a challenge. They stay very low in aquariums and tend to get outcompeted for food because of their skittish personalities. If they are reluctant, there are a handful of tricks to entice both types of fish into consuming processed food. This article will discuss some of the ways we can encourage our goby to eat or help a skittish goby get food before more aggressive eaters steal it.

    This process is not guaranteed to work, but I have had success with them in the past. As a disclaimer, this article focuses on sand-sifting gobies and jawfish. It is not a good reference for Mandarin Gobies and Scooter Blennies.

    1. Distract Other Fish With Food

    As stated above, gobies and jawfish are often outcompeted for food because of how low they are in fish tanks. All the food is usually gone before it gets close to them. One thing I have done is to simply drop some food in a different part of the aquarium to distract free swimming fish, and then drop food near the goby’s territory. I recommend turning off circulation pumps to prevent food from getting pushed away from the goby.

    If your goby is confident enough, you’ll see it dart out, grab some food, and go back into its burrow. This trick is simple and can easily be tried. However, it may be harder to accomplish in deeper fish tanks because it will take food longer to fall.

    2. Feed Goby With Tools

    If your fish are too fast and get through your distraction, you can try to feed your goby with tools. I have used Coral Feeder Tubes (affiliate link) to suck up some Mysis Shrimp, Brine Shrimp, or pellet food. I then squirt the food close to the goby’s burrow. Other fish may need to be distracted during this process, but feeding your goby more directly increases the chance of food successfully reaching it.

    This method may require a bit more patience. If you move the feeder tube a little too fast towards the burrow, you may startle your fish and it may hide.

    3. Try Different Foods

    Some fish are picky eaters. Gobies especially may only eat live foods that are already in the fish tank. It’s a good idea to at least offer multiple food options. Mysis Shrimp, Brine Shrimp, and pellet foods are usually the first things I offer new fish. They’re usually a hit but not every fish readily accepts processed food.

    If my fish is stubborn and refuses to eat any processed foods, my next move is to offer live baby brine shrimp, so I know it’s getting some food. Hopefully, over time I can ween the goby/jawfish into eating processed foods.

    4. Soak Food in Garlic

    If your goby or any fish for that matter, refuses to eat the foods provided, you may want to consider soaking your food in garlic, garlic extract, or Selcon Concentrate. I have cut up garlic, put it into a cup with aquarium water, and let pellets and frozen foods soak in it. A more potent alternative to this is Brightwell Aquatics Garlic Power (affiliate link) or Corallife Garlic Xtreme (affiliate link). You can often smell the concentrated smell without opening the bottle. Fish often go crazy over these supplements, and they will hopefully encourage your goby or jawfish to eat as well.

    I have used Selcon Concentrate (affiliate link) as a supplement for fish that are finicky eaters. It has helped to encourage finicky eaters to go after food for me. This is speculation, but I think the fish really go after the smell that Selcon gives off. Selcon is a food booster loaded with fatty acids, vitamin C, and vitamin B12. Whether your fish are finicky eaters or you want to provide them with more nutrients/vitamins, it might be worth your while to try Selcon.

    Final Notes

    If you have other tricks to get food to your goby or jawfish, please let me know. I want to share information with aquarists of all experience levels to help this hobby thrive. It can be very frustrating dealing with a fish that will not accept food. It’s not a great sight to see your gobies with sunken bellies. I hope this information helps someone who may be struggling with this.

  • 10 Best Fish For a 10 Gallon Tank – Freshwater Edition

    10 Best Fish For a 10 Gallon Tank – Freshwater Edition

    Freshwater aquariums are probably the first things you dip your toes into when entering this hobby. Researching and learning about the many fish out there can be quite intimidating. This article will hopefully help cut down on the search by sharing ten fish I think are fantastic choices for a 10-gallon community tank. This list is comprised of my favorite fish for 10-gallon aquariums, The fish listed here are my personal choices and I understand there may be varying opinions depending on who you ask.

    1. Ember Tetra

    The Ember Tetra is a fantastic option for a 10-gallon fish tank. They’re incredibly small and will stay about 1.25 inches when fully grown. Ember Tetras have a very small bio-load and you can easily add 10-15 of them into a well-planted aquarium.

    Ember Tetras are on this list because they remain incredibly small. They’re easy fish to keep, and you can add a good handful of them into a 10-gallon aquarium without issue.

    2. Lambchop Rasbora

    Lambchop Rasboras (Trigonostigma espei) are peaceful and generally easy to care for freshwater fish. They’ll grow to about 1.5 inches at their maximum size which makes them a great choice for 10-gallon aquariums. Lambchop Rasboras have a nice orange color throughout their bodies, with a lambchop-shaped black splotch near their belly. They’re great additions to a well-planted tank and will lay eggs underneath broadleaf plants.

    This fish species also made it to this list mostly due to their size. Lambchop Rasboras don’t get much bigger than the Ember Tetra. If you enjoy the look of Lambchop Rasboras but are looking for something a little more robust, consider checking out Harlequin Rasboras.

    3. Threadfin Rainbowfish

    Threadfin Rainbowfish are often overlooked as a stocking option. Large rainbows seem to get most of the love. However, these fish have a unique look to them and have beautiful blue and gray colors throughout their bodies. Threadfin Rainbows stay quite small, only growing to about 2 inches. They’re also peaceful and do best in schools of at least 6 individuals.

    The unique look and beautiful colors of the Threadfin Rainbow are why I felt they deserve to be on this list. They are gorgeous fish with a streamlined-looking body.

    4. Gold Tetra

    Gold Tetras are probably one of my favorite species of tetra and are a fantastic option for a 10-gallon fish tank. They have a great shimmer and are quite flashy in aquariums due to their vibrant gold/silver colors. They’re very peaceful and will not bother other fish in the aquarium. Gold Tetras do best in schools of at least 6 individuals. A 10-gallon aquarium should easily house 10 Gold Tetras.

    The Gold Tetras are a wonderful addition to a 10-gallon tank. I enjoy the contrast they have to a heavily planted aquarium. Their gold/silver glimmer as they move gives them a spot on this list.

    5. Betta Fish

    Betta Fish are really fun fish to keep. They have remarkable colors and we can’t forget about their incredibly long fins. Contrary to what you may have been taught, Betta Fish should not be kept in cups, small vases, or other small containers. However, they are a fantastic choice for 10-gallon community tanks. Bettas love to explore, and will likely utilize every part of the fish tank.

    Most people know the charm of Bettas. Their personalities are some of the best in freshwater fish. Besides their wonderful personalities, Bettafish come in an assortment of colors. You can likely find a color that will match your style.

    6. Pygmy Cory

    Pygmy Corys are exactly what you might expect. They’re a bite-sized version of a Corycat and only grow to about 1 inch. They will spend a lot of time shoaling with other Pygmy Corycats, but they’ll break away from the group and explore on their own.

    I added them to this list because of their small size and many fishkeepers simply adore them. 10-gallon aquariums are fairly small, and this species of fish won’t take up the spotlight in the aquarium, but you may spend most of your time observing your goofy Pygmy Cory over other fish.

    7. Otocinclus

    If you’re looking for a small clean-up crew for your 10-gallon aquarium, check out Otocinclus. They’re social algae eaters that do best in small groups. One might not keep algae at bay, but a team may be able to do great things to eradicate algae growing in your fish tank. Use caution because this fish species is a little harder to keep. They may be a little more difficult to acclimate to a new environment.

    Otocinclus are on this list because they’re small algae eaters that are also fun to watch. In small groups that can assist in keeping an aquarium tidy. Snails and shrimp can do the job of an Oto, but the option to have a small algae eater is good to have.

    8. Neon Tetra

    Neon Tetras are a classic fish. Anyone can recognize the blue and red colorations on this fish. They also make great candidates for 10-gallon aquariums. Depending on filtration and how densely planted the aquarium is, you can easily add between 6 and 10 individuals.

    Neon Tetras made it into this list because they’re classic fish with beautiful blue and red colors. The biggest downside to Neon Tetras is that they can be finicky. You can get a great batch of them that will love for years, but you may also get some that don’t do very well.

    9. Scarlet Badis

    Scarlet Badis are an incredibly vibrant freshwater micro predator. They spend their days hunting for small shrimp, copepods, scuds, and other small inhabitants. They’re great for a 10-gallon aquarium setup that is heavily planted and might do best in a species-only fish tank because they can be incredibly shy.

    I added them to this list because of their bright colors, which will pop in a 10-gallon fish tank. They are great for more experienced fishkeepers because of their picky diet and elusive personalities.

    10. Sparkling Gourami

    The Sparkling Gourami is a fish I don’t see often, but they’re great for 10-gallon community tanks. They only grow to about 1.5 inches and have incredible colors. The most eye-catching part for me is the blue ring Sparkling Gouramis have around their eyes. They can get a little territorial, but a male/female pair should do perfectly fine in a 10-gallon aquarium.

    Another reason I suggest Sparkling Gouramis is because they make noises. During breeding season you may hear this fish make croaking noises. It’s a very odd feature in an already beautiful fish.

    Final Notes

    These ten fish are fantastic for a variety of reasons. They’re some of the best options in my eyes, but I know not everyone will agree with the fish I chose. If you own or have kept any of these fish, I’d be happy to hear your stories in keeping them. Let me know how you feel about this top 10 list! Check out 10 Best Fish for 55 Gallon Fish Tank if you’re looking for stocking ideas for a larger fish tank.

  • Top 10 Worst Community Fish For Freshwater Aquariums

    Top 10 Worst Community Fish For Freshwater Aquariums

    Finding the best tank mates for your aquarium can be a challenge. Not all fish get along well, some get incredibly large, and some are downright aggressive. This list contains what I believe are some of the worst fish that people add to their community tank. Many of these fish are mistaken for community fish, or start off without issue but become problematic in an aquarium as they grow. This list is just my opinion, others may have different experiences which differ from mine.

    1. Red Tail Shark

    red tail shark

    The Red Tail Shark is the first on the list that many incorrectly identify as a community fish. After years of working at a fish store, I have learned that people radiate towards Red Tail Sharks. Many people love the unique coloration of this fish.

    Red Tail Sharks are fantastic fish. They’ll happily search for and find food that’s on the substrate and they’ll also consume algae on different surfaces including plants. The problem with Red Tails is their temperament. They can be territorial and will bully fish. They do better in a semi-aggressive aquarium. I’ve seen them succeed with peaceful fish, but I do not recommend taking the risk of adding them into one.

    Alternative to Red Tail Sharks

    Not many fish can replace a Red Tail Shark’s unique red and black color. However, plenty of fish utilize the same space as this fish that are also peaceful. The following are two fish examples that may fill the same space that a Red Tail Shark uses in an aquarium.

    Corydoras

    Corycats are fantastic bottom-dwelling fish. There are many different species of Corydoras, but they’re all peaceful fish that do best in shoals. They won’t bother other fish and will spend most of their time perched at the bottom of the fish tank waiting for food. I don’t think I have met anyone who regretted adding Corydoras to their community aquarium.

    Siamese Algae Eater

    If you’re looking for a fish that has a similar shape to a Red Tail Shark, check out the Siamese Algae Eater. It’s an active but great fish to add to a community fish tank. Siamese Algae Eaters are a fantastic choice for fighting algae and can be a great addition to your community tank’s clean-up crew. They’ll grow to about 6 inches when fully grown but don’t often bother other fish. If algae issues are plaguing your aquarium, take a look at Common Causes of Algae Blooms in a Freshwater Aquarium. There might be something going on in the fish tank that should be taken care of before adding more fish, and it’s important to diagnose what is happening.

    2. Bala Shark

    bala shark

    The appearance and personality of a small Bala Shark can be misleading. They do great in schools, have a bright silver color, and are very active. These are all fantastic criteria in a fish. The downside is the size they reach when they’re fully grown. Bala Sharks grow to be about 14 inches (35 cm) when they’re adults. With this size comes a great appetite and small community fish will likely become food. Besides the appetite, you’ll need a large aquarium once your Bala Sharks grow. I recommend at least a 150-gallon fish tank to provide room for a school of them.

    Bala Sharks are gentle giants. They shouldn’t bother fish that they don’t see as food. They can technically be kept with larger tetras and other large peaceful fish. If it doesn’t fit into their mouth, the Bala Shark should leave it alone.

    Alternative to Bala Sharks

    There are many fish that are vibrant in color, are active, but are more peaceful and won’t get nearly as large as this fish.

    Denison Barbs

    Denison Barbs are peaceful fish that will do great in a larger community aquarium. They only grow to around 4.5 inches which is much easier to handle for your average fishkeeper. They also enjoy swimming in schools of at least 6 individuals.

    Rainbowfish

    There are a variety of rainbowfish to choose from. My favorites are the Neon Dwarf Rainbow and the Boesemani Rainbow. Both are very active fish, great schoolers, and very vibrant in color.

    3. Common Pleco (Suckermouth Catfish)

    I do not recommend purchasing Common Plecos unless you know someone with a large fish tank or plan on setting up a larger aquarium soon. They’re great at eating algae but they will be just shy of 2 feet in length when they’re fully grown. Many fish tanks cannot appropriately house them their whole lives. Unfortunately, this fish often finds its way into lakes, rivers, and streams because negligent aquarium keepers release them once they get too large. They can dominate waterways because they are an invasive species in certain parts of the world and wreak havoc on the fish populations.

    Alternative to Common Pleco

    There are plenty of fish that will happily eat algae. There are also great invertebrates that help control algae in a fish tank. If possible, try to avoid getting a Common Pleco and look to other avenues for algae-eating fish. Besides the options listed below, check out 9 Best Bottom Feeders Fish For Freshwater Aquariums.

    Bristlenose Pleco

    Bristlenose Plecos are a classic alternative to the enormous Common Pleco. This fish species grows to about 6 inches when it’s fully grown. Male Bristlenose Plecos also acquire a face full of “bristles” which adds to their charm. They’re great fish to have to keep algae away.

    Freshwater Invertebrates

    You may get away with a clean-up crew of freshwater invertebrates. In large numbers, different species of shrimp and snails may fill the niche that a Common Pleco usually holds.

    4. African Cichlids

    african cichlid

    Many people see the vibrant colors of African Cichlids and want them in their community tank. I do not recommend keeping African Cichlids in a peaceful community aquarium. They are aggressive and can dominate most fish that are in the aquarium. African Cichlid’s water parameter needs do not match what is commonly put into a community aquarium. Most African Cichlids require very hard water with high pH levels. The African Cichlid does best with other African Cichlids.

    Alternative to African Cichlids

    The colorations of African Cichlids compete with the vibrant colors of saltwater fish. Finding an alternative to these fish’s color is incredibly hard in a freshwater aquarium. A lot of cichlid species are also deemed semi-aggressive and are not often suggested for community fish tanks. You’ll often run the risk of having your cichlids become aggressive in an aquarium, especially if they decide to spawn.

    Scarlett Badis

    One alternative that resembles a cichlid without aggressive tendencies is the Scarlett Badis. This fish species is quite peaceful and is considered to be timid. They’re micro-predators and will spend their day searching for small shrimp, scuds, copepods, and other tiny invertebrates. Scarlet Badis have vibrant red colors and make for an eye-catching addition to a peaceful community tank.

    5. Pea Puffers

    Pea Puffer

    Pea Puffers are amazing fish. They have wonderful personalities and (in my opinion) display a different type of intellect compared to other fish. It’s hard to explain Pea Puffers unless you’ve kept them. Unfortunately, this fish species can be aggressive and are notorious fin nippers. I’ve seen them nip on small, big, peaceful, and aggressive fish. They just don’t care which makes them less than ideal candidates for community fish tanks.

    Besides their nippy personalities, Pea Puffers are often filled with parasites, partly because of the foods they eat. The parasites must be treated otherwise your Pea Puffer will slowly lose the battle to the parasite. Also, Pea Puffers can be challenging to keep due to their picky diets. I’ve had some that eat live snails and shrimp. I’ve had others that only eat live shrimp and different ones that only eat live snails. The goal is to get them to eat frozen bloodworms, but that’s not always possible.

    Alternative to Pea Puffers

    It’s hard for me to think of an alternative for Pea Puffers. The amount of personality and quirks you get in such a small package is hard to replicate. The following fish are just suggestions that might vaguely replace the charm of this fish.

    Betta Fish

    The Betta is much bigger than a Pea Puffer and they look nothing alike. I chose them solely as an alternative to Pea Puffers due to their personalities. I love the personality of Betta Fish. They explore the aquarium, are curious, seem to recognize you when you’re around the fish tank, and are all-around great fish to keep.

    Bumblebee Goby

    If you’re looking for something small, that stays small like a Pea Puffer, check out the Bumblebee Gobies. They’re incredibly tiny, bottom-dwelling fish that are usually peaceful and great candidates for a community tank. They will claim a spot in the aquarium and defend it from other fish. Be mindful because they can get mischievous and nip long-finned fish like Bettas.

    6. Tiger Barbs

    tiger barb

    I remember growing up, and not knowing much about Tiger Barbs and mistakingly adding a handful into an aquarium. Little did I know that Tiger Barbs would chase and pester other fish for an assortment of reasons. They’re beautiful fish, and I love seeing aquariums with large schools of them, but they’re not a great choice for community tanks because of their fin-nipping habits.

    Alternative To Tiger Barbs

    The color and stripe patterns of the Tiger Barb are iconic and it’s there aren’t many fish that can match that. I have listed a handful of fish that should do well in community aquariums but are not as aggressive as Tiger Barbs.

    Other Barbs

    There are quite a few barbs that are considered peaceful and aren’t as nippy as Tiger Barbs. Hexazon Barbs look the most similar and should not bother other species of fish if they’re in large enough schools. Besides that, Rosy Barbs, Gold Barbs, Snakeskin Barbs, and Cherry Barbs are other species of barbs that are excellent options for community tanks.

    Medium Sized Tetras

    If you like the shape of Tiger Barbs, there are a few medium-sized tetras that vaguely resemble them. Check out Black/White Skirt Tetras, Bleeding Heart Tetra, Candycane Tetras, and Pristella Tetras. These five options slightly resemble Tiger Barbs, are great schooling fish, but they’re far more peaceful.

    7. Goldfish

    Goldfish come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and colors. At the end of the day, most goldfish have similar traits. First, Goldfish get big and require large fish tanks or ponds to be happy long-term. Second, Goldfish are great candidates for cool water aquariums. Lastly, Goldfish are incredibly messy fish. They produce more poop than one can imagine and need great filtration and water changes to keep the water parameters in check.

    Alternative to Goldfish

    If you’re looking for large orange fish that can do well in community tanks, you might want to consider Swordtails. They’re peaceful fish that come in many colors, including vibrant orange. Males have a beautiful “sword” on their tail which adds to their charm. Be mindful because they are livebearers and if males and females are present, you may get a plethora of Swordtails over a short period.

    8. Columbian Shark

    I’ve seen quite a few people who wanted to add Columbian Sharks to their community tanks. Columbian Sharks are one fish that I believe should not be kept in the hobby. I say this because many novice fishkeepers get these fish without knowing how to fully care for them.

    Columbian Sharks have a unique quirk. They’re technically brackish water fish but are often sold as freshwater fish. They might be fine in freshwater aquariums when they’re small. However, they slowly need to be transitioned from freshwater to brackish water, and converted to full saltwater as they get larger.

    9. Giant Danio

    Giant Danios aren’t necessarily bad options for a community fish tank. They’re great fish that bring a different energy into an enclosure. Their charm is how active they are in the fish tank. They swim, all the time. I’m not sure if they ever stop. Unfortunately, their charm is also their downfall. Giant Danios’ active personalities can passively scare other fish, especially during feeding time. They hog food so you’ll have to spend time distracting these fish to feed your other fish.

    Alternative to Giant Danio

    Giant Danios can be kept successfully in freshwater community tanks. They’re not necessarily my go-to option because of their incredibly active personalities. However, it’s all about preference in this hobby, and there is no single correct option. If you enjoy Giant Danios, it never hurts to give them a try in your fish tank.

    Small Danio Species

    If you’re looking for an active fish that won’t be as big of a bully as the Giant Danio, consider getting Zebra Danios. They’re much smaller and are very active. As a bonus, they are often incredibly cheap at fish stores.

    10. Dwarf Gourami

    dwarf gourami

    Dwarf Gouramis have jaw-dropping colors and have a very unique appearance to them. They’re probably one of my favorite freshwater fish, but I don’t keep them. They can be great in a community tank, but I avoid them because they are sensitive. Sadly, a combination of inbreeding and a virus (Iridovirus) is wreaking havoc on the species making them incredibly hard to keep for long periods. You may get a great specimen that does great its full life, but most often, you’ll get one that slowly fades away and dies over time.

    Alternative to Dwarf Gourami

    It’s unfortunate that Dwarf Gouramis can be affected by such a detrimental disease. Luckily for us, there is a smaller species of Gourami that is not affected by the virus. The Honey Gourami is the species I usually choose when shopping around for Gouramis.

    Honey Gourami

    Honey Gouramis are pretty much a bite-sized version of the Dwarf Gourami. They have shy personalities but are an excellent choice for a community tank. Honey Gouramis can do well with others of their species and are often kept in pairs. However, I recommend avoiding keeping them with other types of Gouramis, like Dwarf Gouramis and fin-nipping fish.

    Final Notes

    There are countless freshwater fish that are available to choose for your aquarium. Researching a fish’s husbandry needs and compatibility with other fish is incredibly important. Unfortunately, the internet is loaded with a range of opinions. This includes the information I am providing. I am fairly knowledgeable about many fish due to my long history of keeping fish and time spent working at fish stores. I do my best to research fish I may not have a complete understanding of. If you have experiences with fish and would like to share don’t hesitate to reach out. I am always looking to add more content to this website.

  • How To Remove Green Hair Algae in Saltwater Aquariums

    How To Remove Green Hair Algae in Saltwater Aquariums

    Green Hair Algae removal can be one of the most frustrating experiences in this hobby. Unfortunately, there is no cure-all solution to remove hair algae from your fish tank. The “cure-all” methods often band-aid the problem temporarily, but it will return if not removed at the source. Removing hair algae takes time. You’ll likely not see a change overnight, but with time, patience, and persistence, Green Hair Algae can mostly be eradicated from an aquarium. A combination of manually removing the hair algae and following the steps below will help remove it.

    This article will discuss some of the common reasons Green Hair Algae may wreak havoc on your saltwater fish tank, and once the problem is diagnosed, solutions will be provided to prevent it from coming back. This article should help to remove hair algae from a reef tank or fish-only saltwater aquarium.

    How Old Is Your Aquarium?

    Before continuing consider this. Many new(ish) saltwater aquariums go through a phase. Aquarists may experience this phase between 3 and 6 months, but it can happen sooner or not at all. During this phase, a large algal bloom may occur throughout the aquarium. The intensity of the algae growth varies but I have seen some very green aquariums, completely covered in hair algae or other species of algae.

    If you’re at this stage, the only thing to do is try to manually remove as much Green Hair Algae as possible. I do not recommend removing or cleaning rocks. Leave the rocks alone and use your hands to remove the hair algae. I have managed to use a turkey baster to help suck up algae off rockwork. As long as you do not feed the algae with many more nutrients, it should choke itself out and die out on its own.

    Nutrient Imbalanced Aquarium

    An imbalance of nutrients can be the cause of your algal issues. Green Hair Algae will use whatever free nutrients are in the water and can dominate the aquarium because of it. Algae is also very efficient at consuming nutrients. It’s important to keep an eye on the nitrate and phosphate levels in your fish tank. Focus more on eradicating phosphate levels, because Green Hair Algae uses that more for growth. You feed your aquarium, and your fish poop it’s expected to have trace amounts of both nitrates and phosphates but you do not want high levels of either.

    If you have an aquarium full of hair algae or a refugium with macroalgae, you may read 0 nitrates and 0 phosphates when you test your water. This could be because the algae consumes the nutrients before they become testable. I recommend testing your water with the API Reef Master Test Kit (Affiliate Link). It gives you test solutions for nitrates, phosphates, calcium, and carbonate hardness. If you cannot get your phosphate levels under control, consider looking into a Media Reactor, like the Aquatop Media Reactor (Affiliate Link). You can place different filter media such as PhosBan, PhosGuard, or GFO Phosphate Reducers to help get your phosphates to more manageable levels. Follow the instructions, and slowly lower your phosphate levels.

    How Much Are You Feeding?

    The more we feed, the more nutrients that are introduced into the water. It’s very important to not overfeed your aquarium. We are all guilty of doing so because it’s one of the most exciting aspects of keeping fish. Keep an eye on the portions you give your fish. Guarantee that what you give them is being eaten and not lost in the live rock or sucked up by the filtration system. The best solution to removing nutrients from your aquarium is through water changes. You can easily remove nitrates, phosphates, and food debris by changing the dirty aquarium water and introducing fresh saltwater.

    What Type of Water Are You Using?

    This can be very important for the types of nutrients that are introduced into your aquarium. If you’re using tap water for your water changes, you may be adding a cocktail of nutrients that help promote algae growth. You don’t really know how clean your tap water is. Providing clean water during water changes and water top-offs guarantees you are not introducing nitrates, phosphates, copper, or other contaminants that may be in tap water.

    If possible, I recommend doing water changes and topping off your aquarium with RO water. Small RO units are fairly cheap. For example, the AQUATICLIFE RO Buddie can be purchased from Amazon. You’ll only need a sink that can accept a screw-on adapter and to change the unit’s filters every few months. If you do not have access to RO water or don’t want to buy an RO unit, many stores and fish stores sell RO or distilled water.

    Are You Changing The Water Too Much?

    Again, changing water, especially with tap water can add too many new nutrients into your fish tank that algae will soak up. If you test your nitrates and phosphates, and the results aren’t at dangerous levels, consider taking a step back and cutting down on water changes for a couple of weeks to see if your tap water is introducing unwanted contaminants. You can also test your tap water for nitrates and phosphates with the API test kit suggested above the same way you test aquarium water.

    Does Your Filter Need Cleaning?

    The filter is the place where debris, excess food, and other gunk go to rest. Think back to the last time your sponges and media have been replaced. Physically look at the sponges to see if there is a build-up of brown sludge on them. If so, it might be time to give your filter a cleaning. I’ll often rinse off dirty sponges in old aquarium water instead of replacing them outright. I do this to remove the sludge and gunk from the sponge. However, I can put the sponge back into the aquarium to not lose the beneficial bacteria growing on it. Unfortunately, some sponges are too far gone and need replacing.

    Light Schedule and Intensity

    The next thing I recommend looking at is your lighting schedule. The duration and intensity of your light schedule will affect photosynthetic opportunities for corals and algae. We want to provide plenty of light for our coral, but not too much light that encourages algae to take over. It might be a good idea to cut down on your photoperiod. There is no way to exactly determine what light schedule you should be on. This will be determined by the type of light you have, the strength of the light system, and the type of coral you are growing.

    Light From Window

    Sometimes an aquarium gets set up a little too close to a window. Aquariums close to a window may be getting too much ambient light causing algae to grow. The best solution for this is to hang up a blackout curtain over the window so light doesn’t reach the fish tank. This is the most practical solution for this unless you opt-in to moving the aquarium to a space with little to no ambient lighting.

    Not Enough Clean-Up Crew

    Check to see how much clean-up crew you have hanging around in the aquarium. If your water parameters are in a safe range, consider leveling up your clean-up crew. Their population will drop over time in a saltwater fish tank, so they’ll likely need to be replenished at some point. Maybe that time is now for your aquarium.

    A healthy clean-up crew can mean the difference between a thriving aquarium, and one that may be consumed with algal issues. A clean-up crew can consist of a variety of critters. Utilizing each is important because everything has a niche that needs filling. There are many options to choose from, you can check out my article Saltwater Aquarium Clean-up Crew for some ideas.

    Final Notes

    This guide is meant to discuss how to remove green hair algae from your aquarium. I have provided the most common reasons you’ll see hair algae blooming in your fish tank, and a handful of solutions to help eradicate it. I try to find the cheapest and most natural route to eradicate nuisance algae. These solutions will also help you continue good husbandry of your saltwater aquarium. I do not like using chemicals in fish tanks unless I really have to. If I can’t tackle the problem at the source, it’s likely the algae will come back over time. Hopefully, this guide helps you recover from a green-haired algae takeover. Remember to be patient and expect to fight this until you find the root of the problem.

  • How To Setup Planted Aquarium for Neon Tetra

    How To Setup Planted Aquarium for Neon Tetra

    Neon Tetras are some of the most iconic fish in this hobby. Anyone who has walked into a pet store can probably identify that familiar red and blue coloration. Many people choose Neon Tetras because they are commonly found in pet stores, are vibrant in color, and are incredibly cheap. It makes sense why they are so popular. This guide will discuss what you need to set up a planted aquarium for Neon Tetras.

    Aquarium For Neon Tetras

    To set up an enclosure for Neon Tetras, you’ll first want to start with acquiring a fish tank. A small school of Neon Tetras will do great in a 10-gallon fish tank. You’re always welcome to go for a larger aquarium, but I do not recommend going smaller. If you have an aquarium stored away that you’re thinking of using but don’t remember how many gallons of water it holds, check out some of the Standard Aquarium Sizes to figure out what size it is. If you’re planning on only keeping Neon Tetras, and perhaps a few snails or shrimp, 10 Neons should do great in a 10-gallon aquarium.

    Filtration For Aquarium

    The next thing you’ll want to consider when setting up a planted aquarium for Neon Tetras is what type of filtration to use. The most common ones I suggest are sponge filters or power filters, especially for smaller fish tanks. In most cases, Neon Tetra’s bioloads are minimal so a combination of plants, filtration, and water changes should be plenty to keep your aquarium clean.

    Sponge filters will take up some real estate in the fish tank, but are fairly cheap to set up, use a very small amount of electricity, and provide a lot of surface area for beneficial bacteria. All you’ll need to set up a sponge filter, is an air pump, airline tubing, and the sponge filter. Most air pumps come included with airline tubing. If you’re new to the hobby, check out Sponge Filter Use Cleaning and Extra Tips to learn a few things about this type of filtration.

    Sponge Filter Zoomed

    If you want a more in-depth filtration experience consider getting a power filter. There are many types of power filters available to choose from. Most will get the job done but my favorites are the Fluval – Aquaclear Power Filters or the Seachem – Tidal Power Aquarium Filters. I love these filters mostly because of their customizable and large media baskets. You can swap filter media to whatever you desire and they’ll continue to work well. Neon Tetras don’t have an incredibly large bio-load, but it never hurts to have a good filter running on the fish tank. If you’re shopping around for power filters and are not sold on these, take a look at 7 Best Hang-On Back Power Filters For Freshwater Aquariums to see many other options.

    Lights For Plants

    You’ll need to purchase lights for your aquarium that will complement the plants you’re planning on growing. Some plants do better under more intense light while others do great under medium to low light conditions. If you’re new, I’d start with plants that are very tolerant of lower light conditions and that are not incredibly demanding. I have gotten great results growing plants such as vals, crypts, and anubias with the NICREW Full Spectrum Planted LED Light. It’s a great budget light and a solid introduction to LED aquarium lighting.

    Aquarium Heater

    Unless you live in an area where the ambient temperature is always between 72° and 78°F, you’ll likely need an aquarium heater. You’ll have to pick out the one that will work best for your aquarium’s dimensions. There are a lot of brands that make fantastic heaters. If you’re in the market for a heater, take a look at 6 Best Aquarium Heaters for Your Fish Tank. There are many different options to choose from, I have always had good results from the Fluval M-Series Heaters but I have also used many other brands like the Aqueon Pro Series Heaters that have worked great. Remember, that heaters are the pieces of equipment that are likely to fault out in your fish tank.

    You can take precautions by purchasing an Inkbird Temperature Controller to help keep the heater from causing irreversible damage to your fish if it were to malfunction. An internal aquarium thermostat will also give you a good idea of your water temperature.

    Decorations and Plants

    There are plenty of different decorations to choose from when setting up an aquarium. You can add rocks, live plants, driftwood, artificial decor, and more. What type of decorations you choose is entirely up to you. The most important thing is that what you put in the aquarium is fish-safe. I love aquariums that look and feel like a slice of nature, so my fish tanks are usually dominated by plants, wood, and rockwork.

    Substrate

    A substrate is essentially the “ground” of your aquarium. I have seen many different brands, types, colors, and textures of substrates in my years of fishkeeping. However, if you’re considering setting up a planted tank, I assume you’re looking for a natural look to your aquarium. For planted fish tanks, my go-to substrate is CaribSea Eco-Complete. This substrate is nice because its dark color makes the decorations and fish swimming above pop in color. The opposite occurs when you use a white-colored substrate.

    Another great substrate used for planted aquariums is the Fluval Stratum for Freshwater Fish Tanks. I don’t use this one too often, but many fishkeepers and hobbyists love the quality and look it provides. It also comes with the perks of being very porous to help plants root faster and it helps maintain neutral to acidic water parameters. Before choosing a substrate, consider doing some research on the effects it may have on your plants.

    Rocks, Driftwood, etc.

    Adding rocks and driftwood to your fish tank will surely add a natural-looking touch. Some species of plants and mosses can be grown off of driftwood, and plants growing around stones can make your fish tank look incredible. I recommend giving your driftwood and rocks a good rinse before adding them to an aquarium. However, do not use any household chemicals because those can be dangerous for fish and invertebrates.

    Many aquarists boil their driftwood to help remove the tannins they will likely release into your fish tank. Tannins aren’t dangerous, they are actually beneficial for your fish. However, tannins will cause your fish tank water to turn tea color or sometimes even darker than that.

    Certain rocks can alter the water parameters in your fish tank. For example, limestone or Texas Holey Rock will increase your fish tank’s water hardness and pH level. This is fantastic for high pH, hard water-loving fish, but that’s not the case for Neon Tetras. Lava rock and slate are pretty safe options, but there are plenty of rocks out there that won’t alter your water parameters. Unlike driftwood, do not boil or bake your rocks.

    Plants

    This article is specific to setting up a planted tank for Neon Tetras, so I’ll list a handful of plants that are very easy to care for to get someone started.

    • Anubias are a fantastic option for a planted aquarium. They are very tolerant of low light conditions and have beautiful broad leaves. You can wedge them in between driftwood and grow them out of the substrate. If you plant them in substrate, ensure part of its rhizome is exposed. Otherwise, the rhizome will likely rot and eventually kill off the plant.
    • Java Fern is another great option for a planted aquarium, especially when you’re first starting out. It has a lance-shaped leaf and is usually a nice vibrant green color. This plant is also fairly tolerant of lower light conditions. It’s a great choice for a background plant
    • There are many different species of crypts. You’ll see some that’ll grow much taller than others, and you’ll also see a few color variations. This plant usually grows very well in an aquarium and may even dominate parts of a fish tank if you let them grow out. After breaking down an aquarium, i had a singular root run the full length of my fish tank. The aquarium was about 30″ long.
    • You can’t go wrong with attaching mosses to driftwood. The most common you’ll likely see are java moss or Christmas moss. Moss is a great way to grow something green in an aquarium without losing much open swimming space.
    • There are quite a few different species of Val. The most common i see are Jungle Vals, Italian Vals, and Corkscrew Vals. From experience, they grow very easily and they’ll grow to the top of your fish tank. Once they’re acclimated, they will quickly begin growing vertically and horizontally, taking over much of the background of your aquarium.
    • Pearlweed are very easy-to-grow plants that can be added to a planted fish tank. They’re great for backgrounds and will often propagate quickly. A few sometimes can turn into a jungle.

    Adding Neon Tetras into the Aquarium

    Before adding Neon Tetras to your aquarium, guarantee that your fish tank is established and has gone through the Nitrogen Cycle. The Aquarium Co-Op does a great job explaining what the Nitrogen Cycle is. As a quick summary, your aquarium has to go through a nitrogen cycle when it’s first set up. There are different ways to do it, but I suggest a fishless cycle if possible. Even better, if you know someone with an established fish tank, or own one yourself, you can take filter media, substrate, a rock, or any other hard surface (where bacteria can colonize) and put it into the new fish tank. This will seed the new aquarium with beneficial bacteria. Although it will not fully cycle the new fish tank, it should at least speed up the Nitrogen Cycle process.

    The result of your nitrogen cycle will result in your aquarium reading 0 ammonia, and 0 nitrites, and you’ll likely have a hint of nitrates. You can test for these with the API Freshwater Master Test Kit.

    Final Notes

    Neon Tetras are fantastic fish to add to a freshwater aquarium. They look even better in a freshwater planted tank. Their magnificent blue and red color pops in an aquarium full of plants. Due to inbreeding, they’re a little more sensitive than other fish but are still a very sought-after species.

  • 6 Large Peaceful Freshwater Fish

    6 Large Peaceful Freshwater Fish

    There are countless fish species available in this hobby. Many new hobbyists start with small aquariums and grow into larger ones as time progresses. It seems like nano tanks have an unlimited amount of peaceful fish that can occupy them. The opposite seems true for larger fish and big aquariums. Luckily, there are large peaceful freshwater fish out there. This article will discuss a handful of large fish, that have a good chance of being peaceful.

    Before we start, I want to add a disclaimer. Fish are opportunists and there is a saying “If it fits into its mouth, it’s likely to become food.” This saying holds for both peaceful and aggressive fish. The fish on this list may be peaceful but that won’t stop them from eating anything that fits into their mouth. Keep that in mind when you are planning on stocking your fish tank.

    1. Silver Dollars

    Silver Dollars are freshwater fish that get big, but are incredibly peaceful. They are an excellent choice for a large community tank. This fish species does best in a school of at least 6 individuals but more is always recommended. Silver Dollars become bolder and less fearful when in a larger school. They enjoy having a long aquarium when fully grown due to their active personalities. Ideally, they will do best in an aquarium that is at least 125 gallons or larger when fully grown.

    The unique trait of Silver Dollars is that they are primarily herbivorous fish. I do not recommend putting them into a planted aquarium because the plants will quickly become a salad buffet. Silver Dollars will graze the plants down to the roots within a few hours to a few days, depending on plant density. Various rock, driftwood, and plastic plants will be ideal decor for this fish.

    2. Rainbowfish

    There are many different species of rainbowfish and all species are generally peaceful and keep to themselves. You may see fighting for dominance within a school, but they should not bother other species of fish. I recommend forming a large school of the same species of rainbowish over mixing many different species. This is to mimic the large schools they have in the wild. Some of my favorite rainbowfish are the Dwarf Neon Rainbowfish, Boesemani Rainbowfish, and Irian Red Rainbowfish.

    One quirk of most rainbowfish species is that they are active and aggressive eaters. They can become bullies when food is present and scare away slower-moving fish by accident. This isn’t true aggression, they are just passionate about food. Once the food is gone, they will likely go back to their peaceful behaviors.

    3. Elephant Nose

    The Elephantnose Fish have a unique appearance as well as an interesting quirk to them. They have a trunk-like appendage that sticks out from their face. The trunk emits an electrical pulse that helps them navigate through the fish tank and also assists them with hunting for food. This species of fish is nocturnal but may come out of hiding at times when the lights are on. Elephantnose requires very pristine water conditions to thrive. They are very sensitive to water quality. Soft gravel and sand are needed for the Elephantnose so it does not damage its trunk while exploring.

    Elephantnose Fish will be aggressive towards others of the same species. I do not recommend keeping more than one in the same aquarium. The more dominant of the two will bully and stress the less dominant one.

    4. Severums

    I am stretching the term “peaceful” for this next fish. Severums can be peaceful, for cichlid standards. There are many species of Severum and each fish has a unique temperament. Your Severem can be a model fish, but another hobbyist may have purchased a Severum that completely dominates an aquarium.

    To help keep the aggression down for Severums, I recommend keeping them in at least a 125-gallon aquarium as they mature. On top of that, they do best with rocks, driftwood, and plants that break their line of sight. The more decorations you can provide, the better. If you have a male and female, you’ll see territorial aggression when they are trying to spawn. You can avoid this by keeping a lone Severum.

    5. Goldfish

    Goldfish that are kept with similar-sized Goldfish or Koi can be incredibly peaceful. Most Goldfish lumber around and wait for food, or churn through gravel looking for food. Feeding time may be the only time you’ll spot aggression from these fish.

    There are a few drawbacks to Goldfish. They’re prolific poopers, messy eaters, get very large, and require large aquariums and filtration systems to thrive. Large filters are needed mostly because of their messiness. Common Goldfish do best in outdoor ponds over aquariums because of their husbandry needs. They’re great fish, with vibrant colors, but do best with other Goldfish and Koi in incredibly large fish tanks or ponds.

    6. Discus

    I was on the fence about adding Discus to this list. Similar to Severums, they can be peaceful compared to many other cichlids. However, Discus are not compatible with many fish species. They do best with high temperature, low pH, and pristine water conditions. The high temperature alone knocks off most fish from being compatible with Discus.

    Discus enjoy being in schools of at least 4 individuals, but 6 or more are highly recommended. Being cichlids, you may see fighting within the school over dominance. 6 should do fine in a 75-gallon aquarium, but I recommend a larger aquarium. Due to the high-temperature needs, Discus’s metabolism is very high. This means a lot of feedings and water changes will be needed. More water volume will help prevent large swings in water parameters.

    Final Notes

    There are probably many more large and peaceful freshwater fish available, but these few are the first that come to mind. Everyone has different experiences with fish and not everyone will agree with the ones listed. From experience, discussing with hobbyists, and researching the subject, the fish listed above seem to fit the category of peaceful fish. If you have experience with any of these fish, or think others would do well on this list, please let me know!

  • Black Neon Dottyback – Complete Care Guide

    The Black Neon Dottyback (Pseudochromis aldabraensis x Psuedochromis springeri) is a hybrid fish bred from the Springeri Dottyback and Neon Dottyback. This hybrid fish is semi-aggressive and grows to 3″ in size as an adult. Don’t let their small size fool you, because this fish can hold its own in an aquarium. Black Neon Dottybacks have a beautiful blend of colors from both parents. The black body of the Springeri Dottyback mixes with the yellow body of the Neon Dottyback, to form a gorgeous orange/brown on the Black Neon Dottyback. They also have vibrant blue streaks that run horizontally throughout their face and fins. This guide will discuss aquarium requirements, food & dietary needs, Black Neon Dottyback compatibility with other fish, and more.

    Aquarium Requirements

    Black Neon Dottybacks will do best in 30-gallon or larger aquariums. Due to their semi-aggressive personalities, they may claim an aquarium area as theirs and will do their best to protect their home. That’s also why it’s important to provide plenty of live rock. The live rock allows this fish to explore and claim its own space. Providing a lot of live rock will also give other fish their own space, hopefully preventing aggression between fish.

    Like many other fish, the Black Neon Dottyback can jump out of the aquarium. I recommend providing a well-fitted lid on your aquarium to help prevent that from happening. They mostly hang out around rocks, but can easily dart up when spooked and jump out of your fish tank.

    Water Parameters

    Keeping water parameters in appropriate ranges for your fish’s needs is important for the overall health of the fish. Luckily, most fish have a fair range of parameters they will do well under. The following are the water parameters your Black Neon Dottyback does best with.

    • Water Temperature: 72°-78° F
    • dKH: 8 – 12
    • pH: 8.1 – 8.4
    • Salinity: 1.020 – 1.025 sg

    Consider getting a High Range pH and KH test kit to test for pH & dKH. Keeping your temperature between 72° and 78° can be accomplished with a heater. Take a look at my guide which showcases some great aquarium heaters. Lastly, I would pick up a Refractometer from Amazon to keep an eye on your salinity levels. If calibrated correctly, refractometers are much more accurate compared to a hydrometer which loses accuracy due to salt buildup on the dial. Check out Different Salinity Reading Tools For Saltwater Fish Tanks to get an idea of other salinity testing devices available.

    Is the Black Neon Dottyback Reef Safe?

    Black Neon Dottybacks are reef-safe. They will not bother corals and most invertebrates. You may see them pick on rocks or grab something out of the water. They’re likely picking off microorganisms such as copepods of the rock. There is a lot of back-and-forth on whether this fish is safe with shrimp, and I recommend being cautious when keeping them together. Small shrimp, like Sexy Shrimp, will likely become an expensive snack. Larger shrimp often have more luck, but can become targets for the fish. If you’re inclined to try to keep these two together, I recommend providing a lot of rock with plenty of ledges and hiding spaces for the shrimp.

    Food & Diet

    This fish, like most other dottybacks, is carnivorous by nature. Their diet should primarily be rich in protein. I recommend feeding them foods such as Mysis Shrimp, Brine Shrimp, Krill, and other meaty foods. I enjoy using Hikari frozen fish food to provide protein for this species of fish. Black Neon Dottybacks should also readily accept pellet food as supplemental food.

    If your fish is hiding or being stubborn about eating, consider feeding live baby brine shrimp so it doesn’t starve. It may prefer hunting for its meal. Another tip is to turn off your powerheads and drop frozen food near the Black Neon Dottyback’s den. This will give it a chance to slowly creep out of its hiding space and grab food. Lastly, try mixing your food with garlic or fish-safe garlic extract, like Brightwell Aquatics Garlic Power. Many fish cannot resist the aroma of the extract, and it is generally good for them, in moderation.

    Tank Mates

    Dottybacks are territorial and aggressive by default. If you want to keep one, I recommend adding them last into the aquarium, to give other fish a chance to settle in and establish their territories. If you’re trying to keep a very peaceful fish tank, maybe look to other fish that won’t bother others. Besides Orchid Dottybacks most dottybacks are considered aggressive and may pick on other fish.

    Fish that have the most success with dottybacks are Cardinals, Chromis, Clownfish, sand-sifting gobies, foxfaces, tangs, dwarf angels, and damsels. Most of these fish either occupy a different part of the aquariums, don’t look like a territorial threat to the dottyback, or are tough enough to hold their own against an aggressive species of fish. I would recommend not keeping them with large-mouth fish and predatory fish. Anything that can fit into a fish’s mouth has a strong chance of becoming food.

    Black Neon Dottyback and Peppermint Shrimp

    I covered most of this earlier, but I would be cautious about keeping a Black Neon Dottyback and Peppermint Shrimp. They can do perfectly fine together, but I have heard cases where the dottyback destroys the population of shrimp in the aquarium. The personality of the individual fish is likely to play a large role whether it’ll mess with shrimp or not.

    Breeding

    Due to their aggression, I do not recommend mixing dottybacks, unless you own an incredibly large fish tank. These fish will likely battle it out relentlessly which will make successful breeding impossible.

    Final Notes

    The Black Neon Dottyback is a very cool-looking hybrid fish that may be an excellent choice for your saltwater fish tank. You’re always taking a gamble on keeping them with their territorial personalities, but the colors they bring to an aquarium make them a very tempting choice. If you’re shopping around for dottybacks, check out the many other species out there by following this link.

  • Do I Need a Protein Skimmer For a Saltwater Tank?

    Do I Need a Protein Skimmer For a Saltwater Tank?

    Saltwater aquariums come in many different sizes, and shapes, and they all have their quirks and needs. When questions such as, “Do I Need a Protein Skimmer” pop up, it’s hard to give a perfect answer. At the end of the day, it comes down to the aquarium’s specific needs and style of fishkeeping, but I will share my point of view on the topic. To start, this article will cover what is a protein skimmer for fish tanks and then I will discuss whether your saltwater aquarium might need one.

    What is a Protein Skimmer?

    Before we continue the discussion of whether a protein skimmer is a necessity or not, let’s talk about what it is. A protein skimmer is a piece of equipment used in saltwater aquariums that removes waste from your water. A pump creates air bubbles and the bubbles push up through a cylindrical housing. Proteins and other organic wastes are attached to these bubbles which dispense into a collection cup. The collection cup will fill with a slurry of water and waste, which will need to be cleaned out from time to time. In nature, the foam you see on the beach is similar to the end product of what a protein skimmer does to remove waste from the water.

    Protein skimmers are wonderful tools to use in a saltwater aquarium when they are dialed in just right. Besides removing waste from the water, they also help produce large amounts of oxygen, which is overall beneficial for a saltwater aquarium.

    Are Protein Skimmers Required?

    To keep it as simple as possible, I highly recommend setting up a protein skimmer if it logistically makes sense for your system. If you have a saltwater aquarium with a sump system, you’ll likely want a protein skimmer. The skimmer will help remove undesirable waste from your fish tank, which will decrease the likelihood of larger increases in nitrates and phosphates. The size of the protein skimmer should be rated equal to or larger than your aquarium’s water volume. If you own a 75-gallon reef tank with a 20-gallon sump, You’re safe to use something like the Reef Octopus Classic 110-INT, which is rated for aquariums up to 100 gallons.

    If you’re running a smaller saltwater fish tank, such as a nano tank, you can likely get away without using a protein skimmer. Frequent water changes will remove proteins and waste from the water column. Water changes in a nano reef tank won’t be as costly compared to large aquariums that require larger quantities of saltwater. Internal protein skimmers will also take up a lot of space in the fish tank can ruin the aesthetic. However, if you’re still interested in a protein skimmer for your nano fish tank, consider checking out the AquaticLife Mini Internal Protein Skimmer.

    How To Setup Refugium in Saltwater Tank

    Learn the importance of a refugium and how to set one up for different types of aquariums

    If you have an All-in-One nano aquarium, there are small protein skimmers that may fit in one of the compartments of your filtration system. The Coralife Biocube Protein Skimmer is a great example of a skimmer made for All-in-One fish tanks. The hardest part of this is finding a skimmer that will fit correctly into your filtration system. You may have to do some research and digging to find out which one will be best for you.

    Final Notes

    Protein skimmers are just another tool we use to create a pristine environment for our fish, coral, and invertebrates. When tuned correctly, a skimmer works incredibly well at removing wastes from the water column. Combining the filtration of a protein skimmer and setting up a refugium are two things you can do to make your saltwater aquarium filtering easier.

    Image by Skimz on wikiMedia

  • Helfrichi Firefish – Complete Care Guide

    The Helfrichi Firefish, sometimes called the Helfrichi Dartfish, is a species of fish that is incredibly peaceful, with gorgeous purple, lavender, and yellow colorations throughout its body. Although their dorsal fin does not grow as long as other Firefish species, they are still fantastic fish to keep in a saltwater fish tank. The cost of this fish may scare away some potential buyers, but this could be just the right fish for a certain person. This guide will cover the aquarium needs, food & dietary requirements, and tank mate suggestions for the Helfrichi Dartfish.

    Aquarium Requirements

    Helfrichi Firefish grow to 2.5″ and will do great in saltwater fish tanks that are 20 gallons or larger. They will spend most of their time hovering near and around live rock. I recommend providing them with plenty of rockwork, with different-sized holes so they can choose which crevice to call home.

    Like many species of dartfish, the Helfrichi Firefish is known to jump out of fish tanks when frightened. Something as basic as the lights turning on can cause this fish to dart up and out of the aquarium. I recommend providing a well-fitted lid to help prevent this fish from jumping out of the aquarium.

    Water Parameters

    Keeping water parameters in check is very important to maintaining a healthy ecosystem in a glass/acrylic box. Whether it’s coral or fish, they will not do well if their parameters are swinging constantly, or are out of their normal range. The following are the water parameters that the Helfrichi Firefish will thrive under.

    • Water Temperature: 72°-78° F
    • dKH: 8 – 12
    • pH: 8.1 – 8.4
    • Salinity: 1.020 – 1.025 sg

    Consider getting a High Range pH and KH test kit to test for pH & dKH. Keeping your temperature between 72° and 78° can be accomplished with a heater. Take a look at my guide which showcases some great aquarium heaters. Lastly, I would pick up a Refractometer from Amazon to keep an eye on your salinity levels. If calibrated correctly, refractometers are much more accurate compared to a hydrometer which loses accuracy due to salt buildup on the dial. Check out Different Salinity Reading Tools For Saltwater Fish Tanks to get an idea of other salinity testing devices available.

    Are Helfrichi Firefish Reef Safe?

    Yes, the Helfrichi Firefish is reef-safe. It is a carnivore that consumes microorganisms in rockwork or that are free-floating, but it will not bother coral or other desirable invertebrates.

    Food & Diet

    Due to its carnivorous diet, the Helfrichi Dartfish should be fed an assortment of protein-rich foods. They should readily take Brine Shrimp, Mysis Shrimp, and other frozen fish food. I suggest also feeding them the NewLife Spectrum Marine Formula. Providing a variety of foods gives them a wider range of nutrients, which will aid in keeping them healthy.

    Tank Mates

    Helfrichi Firefish are generally very peaceful fish. They do best with other peaceful fish. They will do great with Chromis, Dwarf Angels, Blennies, Clownfish, Sand Sifting Gobies, Tangs, and many other species of fish. I would be careful when keeping them with fish that use the same space in the aquarium. So I would be a little cautious with Dottybacks, Wrasses, and other similar types of fish. Also, I would not recommend keeping them with aggressive fish or fish that can eat them. So fish such as Eels, Groupers, Triggers, Lionfish, and large Angelfish.

    You can also keep Helfrichi Firefish alone or as a pair. Due to their cost, I would not recommend buying groups and trying to have them “sort it out” amongst themselves.

    Breeding

    Successfully breeding and raising young is either incredibly hard or impossible in a typical home reef tank or saltwater aquarium. I do not have experience breeding Helfrichi Firefish. However, there are plenty of discussions available among fish keepers. Here is a great forum post on reef2reef that discusses how to distinguish between males and females so you can find a pair.

    Final Notes

    There are many different species of Firefish available. The Helfrichi is the most expensive, but some might say it’s the most beautiful. They are gorgeous fish and could be an excellent addition to many reef tanks. If you have any experience with this fish, please don’t hesitate to share it with me.

  • How To Setup a Refugium in a Saltwater Aquarium

    How To Setup a Refugium in a Saltwater Aquarium

    Creating a refugium in a saltwater aquarium can be a fantastic way to add extra filtration, more beneficial bacteria, and a space for microorganisms to flourish in your saltwater aquarium. You can create a refugium in many different ways, and this guide will cover some of the most common ways to do so. With aquarium keeping, there is no single solution that works best, especially when discussing such a broad topic as how to set up a refugium. There are a million and a half opinions, that come from a good place, but it can be challenging for new hobbyists to find solid ground in an ocean of different experiences. This article is designed to make setting up a refugium a little less stressful.

    What is a Saltwater Refugium?

    We are always battling nutrient levels in aquariums thanks to our feeding regime. A refugium is a section in your aquarium system that is dedicated to growing macroalgae and a haven for microorganisms such as copepods. Macroalgae uptakes nutrients such as nitrates and phosphates which come from food and animal waste. Just like how plants in a freshwater aquarium use nutrients to grow, the macroalgae do the same except in a marine environment. The macroalgae “holds” the nutrients and we remove them by trimming the macroalgae and physically removing it from the aquarium. Just like freshwater plants, macroalgae will require light to grow, which we will discuss later in this article.

    Copepods are very small invertebrates that are often food for fish and other animals in our display tanks. A refugium is a place in your aquarium that is safe from predation because fish don’t have access to it. Copepods and other small invertebrates use this space as a refuge and this allows their populations to multiply and grow without fear of getting eaten. Eventually, these populations of microorganisms will make their way back into the display aquarium, where they become food for fish such as gobies, blennies, wrasses, and many others.

    Other Refugium Benefits

    Besides nutrient intake, a refugium that has a light interval opposite to the aquarium’s display section will keep your pH levels more stable. pH rises throughout the day due to plants and algae photosynthesizing and creating more oxygen. Photosynthesis does not happen at night, and you will likely see a drop in pH during this time. If you run a refugium on a lighting interval opposite to your display aquarium, there will always be a light period, which means there will always be photosynthesis occurring, and increased levels of oxygen, which will raise your pH level.

    Many aquarists use this method in an attempt to keep their pH levels from swinging. However, pH levels swing naturally through the day and night cycle so it’s not a mandatory thing to do. You are more than welcome to run your refugium on the same lighting cycle as your display tank.

    Do I Need a Refugium?

    No, you do not need a refugium to successfully run a saltwater fish tank or a reef tank. However, the benefits of keeping a refugium make it a very attractive addition to your fish tank. I still recommend conducting water changes to remove excess nutrients, detritus, and to supplement your aquarium with fresh minerals. A refugium is an additional tool we can use to help keep our water parameters in line and as an additional source of food for your fish. It is not a complete package solution to get out of conducting water changes.

    How to Make a Refugium for Saltwater Aquarium

    Before we dive into the specifics of setting up a refugium, I want to emphasize that it’s best to hold off on adding lights and macroalgae into the refugium before the aquarium is established with fish and coral. Likely, the macroalgae will not be able to sustain itself if the aquarium is too “new” and there are not enough nutrients for it to consume. I recommend setting up and having all the components of the refugium ready to go and adding your macroalgae once there are signs of increased levels of nitrates and phosphates.

    You can make a refugium as complex or as simple as you want. I prefer keeping things as simple as possible.

    Refugium in Sump System

    If you have a sump system, you may want to use or convert your second chamber into a refugium. If you are just starting a fish tank, it’ll be easy to insert everything you need to get started. However, if you are thinking of converting the second chamber, you will likely need to turn off your return pump before adding sand and keeping it off to give the sand time to settle. The supplies needed for a sump refugium aren’t very complex. The following are what I choose when setting up a refugium in a sump:

    Live Sand for Refugium (optional)

    There is a lot of back and forth on what is important in a refugium. From the amount of reading that I have done on the topic, I have learned that the safest route to avoid creating a detritus trap or other problems later on is to set up your refugium with live rock, macroalgae, and lighting, but without adding any live sand. Detritus will likely settle somewhere in your sump, and it’ll be much easier to clean out if there isn’t any sand present. If you would like to have sand in your refugium, I would recommend having no less than 3″ to provide more space for bacteria to colonize and break down detritus. I have used CaribSea Fiji Pink Sand in my refugium, and it hasn’t caused any problems for me.

    Live Rock

    I recommend adding appropriately sized pieces of live rock into your refugium. The live rock will provide more space for beneficial bacteria and will be a home for all the tiny invertebrates and other critters. I would avoid pieces that are too large because they will inhibit the growth of your macroalgae. I would also avoid adding rock rubble because detritus will enjoy settling around the rock rubble.

    Lighting

    I provided three different lighting options that should work for your refugium. The first is the Kolem COB LED Grow Light. This should do incredibly well in aiding the growth of green macroalgae such as chaetomorpha. Chaeto absorbs the red coloration, which is what this light provides. The Kessil H80 Tuna Flora Light does something very similar, except is a more well-known brand in the aquarium trade. Lastly, I added the Relassy Waterproof Plant Light which provides a more well-rounded spectrum of lighting. If you’re looking to grow red-colored macroalgae such as the PomPom Macroalgae, you will do better with cool colored lights.

    Circulation Pump

    Chaetomorpha and a few other macro species benefit from tumbling in a refugium. A circulation pump may or may not be needed depending on the size and shape of your sump system’s second chamber and the amount of flow going through it. If you see that the bottom portion of your chaeto is dying out or you’re getting a buildup of gunk within the chaeto, you may want to encourage it to tumble, which a circulation pump can assist with.

    Refugium For Hang On Back Filter

    If you’re working with a smaller reef tank or saltwater aquarium, you’re likely not working with a sump system. As of this writing, I am running a small reef tank with a hang-on back refugium. For this to be successful, I am running an AquaClear 70 Hang-on Back Power Filter as my main source of water flow and filtration. I have the main compartment of the power filter filled with smaller pieces of live rock and chaetomorpha growing above it. A small 5W UPETTOOLS Aquarium Light provides the light needed for the chaeto.

    I chose the AquaClear Power Filter for this, mainly because of the size of the main chamber. I like being able to gut just about everything from the filter and customize it to my needs. Other Power Filters can work, but I have always had a soft spot for this brand. You can check out other AquaClear Power Filters, their specs, sizes, and GPH ratings by clicking the link provided.

    In Tank Refugium

    You can setup a refugium inside of your display tank. It might end up being the most interesting part of your display. The first thing you will need for something like this is a container. The CPR Aquatic in Tank Refugium may be just what you are looking for, but I have also heard people using something as simple as a plastic breeder box to set this up. Be mindful that the suction cups on the CPR Aquatic in Tank Refugium are not incredibly strong.

    Once you have your container, you’ll probably be limited to only using small live rock pieces and macroalgae for this type of refugium. Some might even call this a glorified algae reactor instead of a refugium. For the sake of this article, let’s say it’s a fuge because it will still be a haven for microorganisms. You may get away with adding sand into this, but I would be worried about too much weight and sand sneaking out through the grates.

    Lastly we need to think about lighting. It’s possible that this type of refugium will get all the lighting it needs from the display light. I would probably avoid adding an external light because that will likely bleed into the aquarium. If too much light bleeds into your aquarium, you’ll likely see algal blooms forming in your display.

    Final Notes

    There are plenty of options when it comes to setting up a refugium. You can get one set up in a sump, hang on the back filter, or even in your display tank. The options are there. Do you need a refugium for a reef tank? No, of course not but they are incredibly fun to work with and it’s very rewarding to say you grew live plants in a saltwater environment. One thing we have not covered is cryptic refugiums. These are unique because they use zero lighting, and instead use different sponges and other filter feeders to aid in cleaning your water.

    Image by Coughdrop12 on wikiMedia

  • Sleeper Blue Dot Goby – Complete Care Guide

    The Sleeper Blue Dot Goby (Valenciennea sexguttata) is a large sand-sifting species of goby that is often kept in saltwater aquariums. This goby is predominantly white, with small blue dots around its face and gills. Blue Dot Gobies will grow to about 5.5″ inches when fully grown. These heavy-duty excavators are fantastic at helping you get a nice clean sand bed.This article will cover the aquarium requirements, dietary needs, tank mate suggestions, and more for the Blue Spotted Goby.

    Aquarium Requirements

    Due to its size, Blue Dot Sleeper Gobies could be kept in aquariums that are 30 gallons or larger. However, I recommend keeping them in something even bigger. I suggest choosing a smaller species of goby for a 30-gallon fish tank. My top picks are Yellow Watchman, Two Spot, or Yasha White Ray Gobies. These species don’t grow as large as the Blue Dot Goby, so their food requirements will not be as demanding.

    Sand sifting gobies, sift through sand in search of micro-organisms like copepods. Many gobies will likely consume processed fish food, but there may be some that are incredibly picky. Regardless of aquarium size, it is recommended to set up a refugium, which will be a great place for copepods to grow, reproduce, and supplement the aquarium with live foods. Sumps are great places for refugium, but for smaller saltwater aquariums, many people convert a Hang-On Back Filter into a refuge. A Hang-On refugium can also be purchased, such as the CPR Aquatic Tank Refugium.

    Sleeper Gobies can jump, like many other goby species. Anything can spook them and cause them to dart up and out of the aquarium. I recommend providing a well-fitted lid on your fish tank to avoid this.

    Rock & Sand

    The Blue Dot Sleeper Goby will need live sand, like Carib Sea Fiji Pink. In my opinion, this is one of the better sands because it is not too fine and not too coarse. You’ll want to avoid crushed coral sand or sand that is incredibly fine. Crushed coral sand will be a little too coarse, and the goby will not be able to sift through it. Sand that is incredibly fine will constantly be stirred up and may get all over your aquarium.

    I recommend using live rock for your saltwater aquarium as well. Blue Dot Gobies will create their burrows in the sand bed along the rockwork. Live rock is also beneficial for your reef tank because it provides quite a bit of surface area for beneficial bacteria to grow.

    Water Parameters

    Keeping stable water parameters is very important in keeping your fish, coral, and whole aquarium system in check. Most saltwater fish will have the same water parameter requirements. The following water parameter ranges are what the Blue Dot Sleeper Goby does best with.

    • Water Temperature: 72°-78° F
    • dKH: 8 – 12
    • pH: 8.1 – 8.4
    • Salinity: 1.020 – 1.025 sg

    Consider getting a High Range pH and KH test kit to test for pH & dKH. Keeping your temperature between 72° and 78° can be accomplished with a heater. Take a look at my guide which showcases some great aquarium heaters. Lastly, I would pick up a Refractometer from Amazon to keep an eye on your salinity levels. If calibrated correctly, refractometers are much more accurate compared to a hydrometer which loses accuracy due to salt buildup on the dial. Check out Different Salinity Reading Tools For Saltwater Fish Tanks to get an idea of other salinity testing devices available.

    Is the Blue Dot Sleeper Goby Reef Safe?

    Yes, the Blue Dot Sleeper Goby is reef safe. It should not bother any coral or invertebrate in your aquarium. However, if you keep clams and other coral in your sand bed, the Sleeper Goby may accidently bury parts or all of them, when it is sifting for food.

    Food & Diet

    This fish species is carnivorous. They will spend most of their time sifting through the sand bed looking for microorganisms. Many individual fish in this species will readily consume Mysis Shrimp, Brine Shrimp, and protein-rich pellet food, but there may be some picky ones. Your system needs to be large enough and established enough to be home to many different microorganisms found in the sand. As stated above, a refugium with macroalgae and live rock is an excellent nursery for these microorganisms.

    Tank Mates

    Blue Dot Gobies are generally peaceful and should keep to their territory. They should not really bother any other fish, besides other gobies and jawfish that may encroach on their territory. This fish species should do well with most other peaceful marine fish. They’re great to keep with Anthias, Basslets, Blennies, Butterflies, Chromis, Clownfish, Dwarf Angels, Foxfaces, Tangs, Wrasses, and much more. Avoid keeping them with aggressive fish, and fish that can easily swallow the Blue Dot Goby.

    It is possible to keep a pair of Blue Dot Sleeper Gobies in an appropriately sized aquarium together. Unfortunately, I do not have information on how to sex this fish.

    diamond goby vs sleeper blue dot goby fish

    Is a Citron Goby and Sleeper Blue Dot Goby Compatible?

    The Citron Goby and Sleeper Goby should generally be good tank mates. The Citron Goby does not spend time in the sand bed but instead is a rock-dwelling species of fish. On the other hand, the Blue Dot Goby spends most of its day sifting through the sand bed. The two fish should rarely interact with one another.

    Breeding

    I do not have any other breeding information to provide for this species.

    Final Notes

    Blue Dot Sleeper Gobies are powerhouses in regards to keeping a good portion of your sand bed clean. Their incredibly large mouths will churn through sand in search of food. Although they are not the most vibrant species of fish, their white colorations and gentle blue spots still make them fantastic options for a reef tank. If you are not convinced in keeping the Blue Dot Goby, you’re welcome to check out many other goby species.

  • White Banded Possum Wrasse- Complete Care Guide

    White Banded Possum Wrasse- Complete Care Guide

    The White Banded Possum Wrasse (Wetmorella albofasciata) is an elusive but incredibly fun fish you can keep in a saltwater fish tank. They are predominately red with patches of black throughout, and vertical white bands spread across its body. It is a small species of wrasse but also very eye-catching. This guide will discuss White Banded Possum Wrasse’s aquarium needs, dietary requirements, tank mate compatibility, and more.

    Aquarium Requirements

    This fish will grow to only 2.5 inches in length which makes it a great choice for a nano reef tank, like a 10-gallon. They do best with varying-sized pieces of live rock for it to explore. As stated above, they are elusive and very shy. They will hide in and out of the rockwork when scared, stressed, and when searching for food. Possum Wrasses do not bury themselves in the sand at night, so they do not necessarily require sand in the aquarium. However, live sand is beneficial for the overall health of your fish tank.

    Wrasses are notorious for jumping out of fish tanks, that’s no different for the Possum Wrasse. I recommend covering your aquarium with a well-fitted lid to prevent this from happening.

    Water Parameters

    Keeping water parameters in check is one thing you should strive to do. This is especially true for saltwater fish, because they are a little more sensitive to water fluctuations than freshwater fish. The following are water parameters needed by the White Banded Possum Wrasse.

    • Water Temperature: 72°-78° F
    • dKH: 8 – 12
    • pH: 8.1 – 8.4
    • Salinity: 1.020 – 1.025 sg

    Consider getting a High Range pH and KH test kit to test for pH & dKH. Keeping your temperature between 72° and 78° can be accomplished with a heater. Take a look at my guide which showcases some great aquarium heaters. Lastly, I would pick up a Refractometer from Amazon to keep an eye on your salinity levels. If calibrated correctly, refractometers are much more accurate compared to a hydrometer which loses accuracy due to salt buildup on the dial. Check out Different Salinity Reading Tools For Saltwater Fish Tanks to get an idea of other salinity testing devices available.

    Is the White Banded Possum Wrasse Reef Safe?

    The White Banded Possum Wrasse is reef safe. It will not bother any coral or invertebrates, such as crabs, snails, and shrimp. It will be a benefit for your reef because it will consume nuisance inverts like bristleworms and flatworms, that can irritate coral if populations aren’t kept under control.

    Food & Diet

    Possum Wrasses are carnivorous and require a protein-rich diet. They will find a lot of food on their own in the aquarium, but should also be fed at least once a day. I recommend providing them with a variation of Mysis Shrimp, Brine Shrimp, and other meaty foods. They may also consume pellet food, and my go-to pellet food is New Life Spectrum – Marine Formula.

    Tank Mates

    White Banded Possum Wrasses are incredibly peaceful fish. They are much more docile and elusive than many other Wrasse species. They will do well with most other peaceful marine fish. The list is long but some of the fish they will do great with are:

    • Dwarf Angels
    • Anthias
    • Basslets
    • Blennies
    • Butterflies
    • Cardinals
    • Chromis
    • Clownfish
    • Foxfaces
    • Gobies
    • Tangs

    There are plenty of other fish species that are compatible with Possum Wrasses. When picking out tank mates, consider the space in the aquarium the fish will use. There may be territorial disputes if two or more fish utilize the same space. Also, consider the size of your aquarium. If your fish tank is too small, you’re just asking for fights to break out between fish. If possible, I would avoid keeping The White Banded Possum Wrasse with other Wrasses, just to avoid aggression and fighting. They will not do well with large-mouth fish, such as Anglers, Groupers, Eels, and many other large fish.

    Breeding

    I have never attempted to breed White Banded Possum Wrasses, and there is not much information available on whether it’s even possible. Saltwater fish in general are incredibly hard or impossible to breed in captivity, with a few exceptions of course. If anyone has information on breeding this fish, please let me know!

    Final Notes

    White Banded Possum Wrasses are very unique fish with an arrowhead shaped body, and interesting color patterns. They’re very elusive and shy when introduced into the aquarium. With time and patience they will warm-up to you and their surroundings. The White Banded Possum Wrasse is harder to find compared to the Yellow Banded Possum Wrasse, but either species is an excellent choice for a saltwater reef tank. If this wrasse is not for you, check out other Reef Safe Wrasses available.

    Image by Mark Rosenstein on wikiMedia

  • Yasha White Shrimp Goby – Complete Care Guide

    Yasha White Shrimp Goby – Complete Care Guide

    The Yasha White Shrimp Goby (Stonogobiops yasha), often called the Yasha Goby, is a unique but also hard-to-find saltwater fish. It is a sand-sifting goby that is excellent for nano tanks. It has a mainly white body with red, orange, and yellow markings throughout its body. Yasha Gobies also have an elongated dorsal fin which adds to its uniqueness. This guide will discuss this goby’s aquarium requirements, food and dietary needs, tank mate compatibility, and more.

    Aquarium Requirements

    Yasha Gobies stay very small compared to many other goby species. They only grow to about 2.5″ fully grown. This makes them fantastic candidates for nano reef tanks. Yasha Gobies can be kept in aquariums as small as 10 gallons. They will spend their days sifting for micro-organisms and will create burrows in sand along live rock. So it’s important to provide a deep sand bed and a fair amount of rock for them to use.

    Like many other gobies, Yasha Shrimp Gobies should have a well-fitted lid on their aquarium. When they are spooked or stressed, they often dart from danger and may jump out of the fish tank as a result. You can likely purchase pre-made aquarium lids, or you can create your own using glass, acrylic, screen kits, or many different types of material.

    Water Parameters

    Water parameters are incredibly important to keeping an aquarium successfully. Swinging parameters, or water parameters that do not match the requirements of fish, invertebrates, and coral will cause you to struggle in this hobby. Some fish can tolerate parameters that do not match their needs, but we want our fish to thrive. The following are water parameters needed for Yasha Gobies to thrive.

    • Water Temperature: 72°-78° F
    • dKH: 8 – 12
    • pH: 8.1 – 8.4
    • Salinity: 1.020 – 1.025 sg

    Consider getting a High Range pH and KH test kit to test for pH & dKH. Keeping your temperature between 72° and 78° can be accomplished with a heater. Take a look at my guide which showcases some great aquarium heaters. Lastly, I would pick up a Refractometer from Amazon to keep an eye on your salinity levels. If calibrated correctly, refractometers are much more accurate compared to a hydrometer which loses accuracy due to salt buildup on the dial. Check out Different Salinity Reading Tools For Saltwater Fish Tanks to get an idea of other salinity testing devices available.

    Is the Yasha Goby Reef Safe?

    Yes, the Yasha Goby is reef-safe. It will not actively damage coral or consume invertebrates. However, be cautious because coral kept on your sand bed can be buried since this species of fish spends its day sifting sand in search of food. I would recommend keeping as much coral as you can on your live rock to avoid it getting buried by gobies.

    Food & Diet

    Yasha Shrimp Gobies are carnivorous fish and sift through sand in search of micro-organisms. The food you provide should mimic their diet in nature. The best foods for this goby are Mysis Shrimp and Brine Shrimp. Foods like Krill may be a little large for Yasha Gobies. I would also recommend feeding a protein-rich pellet food to your goby. One of my favorites is the New Life Spectrum Marine Formula.

    Tank Mates

    Yasha Gobies are generally very peaceful fish. They do best with other peaceful fish. They’ll do great with fish such as Anthias, Blennies, Butterflies, Clownfish, Dwarf Angels, Foxface, rock-dwelling Gobies, Tangs, and Wrasses. I would be cautious when keeping Yasha Gobies with other sand-sifting Gobies or Jawfish because they spend most of their time in and around the sand bed. The Yasha Goby should be one of the first bottom-dwelling fish added to your aquarium. They may get bullied out of their burrow by other goby species, so it’s best to introduce them first to give them a chance to establish their territory. I would not recommend keeping them with large and more aggressive fish.

    In appropriately sized aquariums, Yasha Shrimp Gobies can be kept in pairs. You can distinguish a male from a female fairly easily. The males have a black spot on their pelvic fin, while females do not.

    Yasha Goby and Pistol Shrimp

    The Yasha Shrimp Goby will pair with a pistol shrimp. There are many different types of Pistol Shrimp available, and some pair better than others. The one many reefkeepers seem to suggest is the Candy Stripe Pistol Shrimp, which is sometimes called the Randall’s Pistol Shrimp. Tiger Pistol Shrimp pair better with larger gobies like the Watchman Goby. You’re welcome to check out the Yellow Watchman Goby – Complete Care Guide for more information on them.

    Breeding

    There has been success in breeding Yasha White Gobies in captivity. Many you see on sale online are captive bred. However, I do not have any information on how to breed Yasha Gobies. You can check out the success story of breeding this fish on Reef Builders by Rising Tide Conservation.

    Final Notes

    There are many different species of sand sifting goby available in this hobby. Some are heavy-duty sifters, like the Sleeper Gobies, and others are less so. The Yasha Goby is a great fish if you’re looking for a pop of color and a fish that will not rearrange your aquarium like other goby species.